Targeted Individual Update

Targeted Individual Update

TDC777

Here is the prior post and the main post.

Forgot to link to where I got the PowerPoint slides in my last post. They were from here. And you can read more about what I wrote about other fusion centers here.

Faraday cages!

Bento box: it's not just for lunch anymore!

What you have here is a stainless steel bento box (no dividers). Bento boxes are used in Asia to bring your lunch to work or school. Then you can just wash the whole thing in the dishwasher. But for our purposes, I'm using it as a Faraday cage.

A Faraday cage blocks electromagnetic signals (radio waves, microwaves, etc.) by having it go around the metal cage. To do this you need a certain skin depth of the material. You can calculate the most common metals used here (1,000 hertz = 1 Megahertz, 1,000 Megahertz = 1 Gigahertz). As you can see, stainless steel (but not iron) has a very low skin depth. That makes it a good Faraday cage.

(Copper and aluminum are probably better. While they have a higher skin depth number, they seem better at grabbing frequencies out of the air (that's why they are often used as antennas). In other words, it is less transparent (more opaque) to the frequencies. Stainless steel is still really good overall and seems to do better than even those materials at very low frequencies (radio waves). But I get the feeling it is the carbon in the steel that is really blocking the signals. But carbon tends to attenuate rather than reflect signals. This might explain why I still get WiFi in my box. As you'll soon see, carbon seems to be real fickle when it comes to blocking radiation.)

I tried upgrading it using carbon on the outside (charcoal crushed to a fine power and painted it on, I put a ton on and did two coats) and by add conductive copper tape on the inside. None of that really seemed to improve the situation. If anything it made it worse. Why? Well, think of a situation where you are trying to get a room completely dark. Even if the room has no windows, what would be the problem area? The door.

Darn doors!

And visible light is electromagnetic energy, so it's a good example.

Anyway, the paint and copper foil seemed to keep the bento box from closing flush. So I removed it around that area. Overally, I should suggest you leave your stainless steel bento box alone. It isn't worth the trouble (I did get a little bit more WiFi protection from the copper tape, but it's too much of a hassle).

Other thing you need to consider when making your "room" "lightproof" is how opaque your material is (drywall is good enough) and how thick it is (even paper-thin drywall will let light in). But after that it's always the door that's the problem. But instead of perfectly blocking the light from your door, you could put your head under your bed covers to block out more light...

That brings me to this bag. I did see an improvement by adding a Faraday bag on the inside. For instructions for that, see this video:

Thanks Scottie!

Make the bag, it's worth it.

(The only con is that bag can "touch" your phone's screen. I downloaded a few apps that were advertised while testing our my Faraday cage. I might need to put some type of foam on the screen. But, besides testing, I only plan on using the Faraday cage and bag when my phone is "off" so that isn't a problem... but if I knew it was really off then I wouldn't be bothering putting it in a Faraday cage in the first place.)

How do you measure your Faraday cage's effectiveness?

Get these two apps:

WiFI Analyzer by olgor.com

Network Cell Info Lite by M2Catalyst, LLC

Put them both in plot mode and put the phone in your Faraday box/bag.

WiFi: Bag makes a difference. But I still can't block everything.
Cell: Bento box kills it even without the bag
Boo-ya!

While not perfect, this setup is still much better than wrapping it in aluminum foil, EMF blocking fabric I got from Amazon (I even layering it 9 layers thick and the WiFi only dropped to about -55 dBm), cookie boxes (usually brass, which isn't that great, and they have very thin walls), and even when I combined them all. Bento box with a copper tape baggie is still the best so far.

As you can see with the WiFi measurement, it is VERY hard to block ALL the signals.

This is why being able to take out you battery is KING.

(Don't bother with an EMF meters. 5G is out of its range. CIA and NSA has been known to break into mailed packages and phones coming from overseas before being sold in the store to put in malicious hardware. From what I've learned from my laptop, yeah, that includes putting in secret 5G signals.)

I understand Apple's iPhone as they want to be slick, but I don't understand Android phones, especially with all the competition. It's like the US military put pressure on CEOs to not allow customers to not be able to remove their batteries.

Another thing I don't understand is why don't they have covers for your phone's cameras?

They were very common for pocket cameras before smartphones took off, why don't they do it for our phones? You could even design it so that when you slip the cover down it automatically goes into camera mode (opening it from your phone's lock screen is still a pain in the ass). Again, it's like the US military pressured companies to not put covers on their cameras. But I did buy some for the hell of it. They work great and look better than tape.

Yes, I know my screen is broken
Yes, I know my phone is dirty

As far as making a box that blocks all the signals, I think I'm going to have to build my own so I can control the wall thickness. This looks like an interesting video. I would just need to do some welding to really seal out the "light." But apparently welding copper so that it is still conductive is pretty hard, so I might do it with aluminum instead.

This is why the Internet was made—to share knowledge, not to spy on people.

But an aluminum mesh screen, if the holes are small enough and the material is thick enough, might be a viable option and easier to make.

Put my bento box in this?

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