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Zanzibar should seriously fight drug abuse

Zanzibar City buy Ecstasy

T he metal gate creaks open and I step into the courtyard of a spartan detox centre on the southeast outskirts of Stone Town, Zanzibar , a small island off the coast of Tanzania. I visited Zanzibar last year to find out how the heroin crisis has taken hold in this often ignored corner of the world. Defeating it demands the same solution — if politicians have the guts. Ahmad climbs onto his bed and lights a cigarette. I see the same guys keep coming back. They are not ready. But behind paradise lies a dark history. In the 19th century, it was the heart of the Arab slave trade. In the capital of Stone Town , you can still see the cramped, filthy dungeons where human beings were herded like cattle. In it was the site of the shortest war in history, when the sultan of Zanzibar surrendered to the British after just 38 minutes of naval bombardment. Tens of thousands were massacred or had to flee, like the family of future Queen singer Freddie Mercury. A forgotten genocide few talk about. I wanted to escape, and escape my mind. You needed a passport just to get to Dar es Salaam \[on the mainland\]. But when I was 18 I stowed away on a vessel. I went around Dar looking for work and got a job as a sailor. I travelled all over the world. It was when I first tried cocaine, in Panama. But life was good. I was only a social user. At one point, Ahmad ended up in Beirut where he found himself thrust into sectarian unrest. They came to my house, forced me to fight with them. They taught me how to use weapons in a very cruel way. From the s, the joint nation of Tanzania and Zanzibar was governed by the principles of ujamaa , or African-style socialism, and grew close to communist China. But as with the Soviet Union, the end of socialism in the Eighties left a new opening for young seafarers and stowaways like Ahmad. Heroin , or diamorphine, is a powerful narcotic from the sticky gum of the opium poppy. It can be sniffed, swallowed, smoked or injected, leaving you in a state of absolute bliss. All your worries, all your pain goes away. Then when I came back \[to Zanzibar\] in , it followed me. I lost my life, lost my soul, lost my essence. I first tried heroin in Athens in Heroin had already arrived on Zanzibar, and it was a new thing. There was only a few of us who knew about it, so it was cheap. After first the Shah the Islamic Revolution pushed heroin labs and poppy fields out of Iran, the refineries moved to the lawless tribal borderlands between Pakistan and Afghanistan. When the Soviets invaded in to prop up their puppet regime in Kabul, the CIA and Pakistani intelligence allowed the mujahideen resistance to smuggle dope to finance their rebellion. The east Africa route begins in Pakistan, where the heroin is loaded up onto small, speedy dhow boats setting sail from the port of Karachi, past the Arabian Peninsula and the formerly pirate-infested waters off the Horn of Africa to land in the docks of Zanzibar and Mombasa. From there it goes all across the continent, much of it ending up in the townships of South Africa where control over the business has sparked gang wars in Cape Town. As a poor, newly globalised island on the Indian Ocean, Zanzibar was the perfect springboard to offload gear to the mainland. The drug business spread from tourists getting high to the locals and by the s, heroin was across every level of society. I relapsed so many times if you go to any rehab centre on this island, they all know me. I told them they caught me at the wrong time. You see me around here joking with the others; I try to forget. But every night at two in the morning, I wake up, have a cigarette and I remember. She was very beautiful, my mother. Drug users are persecuted around the world. As I saw while writing my book, some countries just shoot them dead on the spot. Zanzibar interested me as a case study because I was curious if the religious beliefs it inherited as a former Arab colony played any role. Drug use is a crime, so many see them \[users\] as criminals. On paper, drinking and any other kind of intoxication is forbidden in Islam — in practice, the Muslim world has a long history with psychotropics, from drunk Persian poetry to hash-smoking Sufis. But the rules are the rules. If you have a daughter taking drugs she will be chased out of the house and end up homeless, in the ghetto. Why would someone do this? Sharing is caring. Those better-off users are often sex workers, compounding the HIV crisis. Secondly, lack of equipment. In there were nearly 2, deaths from heroin and morphine across the UK, a thousand of which were in Scotland. You have to understand, in Zanzibar we are a 97 per cent Muslim society. Towards the end, I got disillusioned with the revolving door and how locking up made no difference. With more Americans believing it should be legal than not and several other countries already or about to take the plunge, the argument for legalising marijuana has already been won. In the s Switzerland was facing a heroin crisis, one the authorities thought they could contain. Let the addicts have their own area, they thought. Dr Seidenberg and his colleagues had to battle city officials to allow them to provide clean needles while the park became ground zero for the Aids epidemic. Then the Swiss tried something different. They legalised heroin. Clinics were opened, allowing addicts to shoot up prescribed diamorphine for free. The result? Huge falls in HIV infections, property crime and drug-induced deaths: over the next decade thefts fell by 90 per cent, while deadly overdoses more than halved. The trouble begins with street smack of a dubious quality shared around groups of desperate addicts. If you inject all the time, injecting is dangerous. Opioids sink their claws into your brain in much the same way as nicotine, but you rarely see smokers swapping stolen TVs for Marlboro Lights because cigarettes are cheap and plentiful. That creates a vicious cycle where society views them as criminals, and not people who need help. Clinics provide the stability for addicts to get their life back together. The more you give medical heroin, the less illegal supply is on the streets. The fact is many addicts prefer their usual serving of hard drugs, and dispensing heroin will let you help those hard-to-reach patients. Methadone is a good means for these goals. Adequately controlled dispensing of heroin or morphine can do well. She was 18 years old, and very resourceful intellectually. She passed, and even in university was able to come to our clinic twice a day. In Mexico, poppies grown in the mountains of Sinaloa, introduced by Chinese immigrants, propelled El Chapo from a peasant farmer to the top of the most powerful criminal organisation in the world, now entangled in a bloody struggle with other factions that costs over 30, lives a year. The world would be a better place without heavily armed narco-warlords. But what about the US opioid crisis, you ask? In the late Nineties, American pharmaceutical companies began egging on doctors to prescribe their patients powerful painkillers such as OxyContin. Sales reps lied about their addictive potential, and doctors got their patients hooked. When they panicked and began cutting off prescriptions, the patients already had a habit. I was years old. In other words, the majority of pill-poppers were not taking controlled doses under medical supervision, while greedy execs dived in their riches like Scrooge McDuck — exactly the situation the Swiss system seeks to avoid. In fact, the Swiss modelled their system on us. In the Eighties, one clinic in Liverpool prescribed heroin to its patients every Thursday: none of them contracted HIV, dope pushers went out of business and the number of thefts and burglaries in the area tumbled. But once the Americans got wind of this they turned up the pressure on the British embassy to have the clinic shut down, which it was, and patients started dying: of the addicts using the clinic, 41 died within two years. Others lost their jobs and were forced back on the street. The impact could be enormous: the Home Office estimates up to half of all thefts, break-ins and robberies are committed by smack, crack and coke addicts: why not take their motive out of the equation? I feel quite sorry for them being stigmatised and stereotyped. Back in Stone Town, I bid goodbye to Ahmad. Maybe one day. Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies. 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Zanzibar City buy Ecstasy