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The landscapes have been stunning, combining barren — at times seeming infinite — puna tussocklands and the arid northern limit of the Atacama Desert with the rawness of a land ravaged by volcanic eruptions. We climbed a m volcano and then descended into one of the deepest — and most infrequently visited — canyons in Peru, only to have to inch our way back out again. But while we discover a huge satisfaction in experiencing these landscapes under our own power, some of the most rewarding moments have been the interactions with locals, most of whom have rarely, or never, seen gringos in their village or district. The south west of Peru has very low rainfall, compared to the mountains to the north and east, making it a great area to ride in during the wet season. A couple of hours of quiet paved road carried us away from Desaguadero and then we turned off onto a good dirt road, headed for the Zona Reservada Aymara-Lupaca — an altiplano border region of open puna, craggy hills and scattered farming communities. A stop in a small village to grab a few supplies from the tienda turns into a half hour of laughs with the locals, and the usual volley of questions. These people could only remember one other cyclist passing through, Chile-bound. A beautiful, calm morning followed, the crunch of the gravel under our tyres interrupted only once or twice by a passing motorbike. We rarely saw any other other traffic. The surrounding hills were decorated with kilometres upon kilometres of ancient stonewalls. A well preserved historic church stood alone in the tussock, while over the road all that remained of the village that once stood here were a few crumbling stone buildings. We were just getting back on our bikes when a small figure on a bicycle appeared round the corner and rode up to us. Twice a week he makes this five hour ride, alone, on a beat up old single speed bike with no brakes and a very large gear. Tour de France potential there for sure! We dropped down the long and dusty descent, stopping in Tupala to pick up some snacks from the solitary tienda, and then eventually joined a paved highway that climbed gradually to the next pass. While mornings are blissfully calm and clear in this part of the world, afternoons are windy, and we battled a headwind for a couple of hours of slow progress. With a thunderstorm looming and darkness not too far off, we picked one of the bare bones settlements scattered along the road and pedalled into a compound to ask for somewhere sheltered to sleep. The family was butchering an alpaca, and a man, hands bloodied, came out and greeted us. At first he pointed us to a corner of the compound, littered with broken glass and alpaca shit and said we could camp there. But then his mother came out and interjected — pointing up the road to a distant adobe hut. On motorbike and bicycle the kids took us up the road, leading us to an empty casita , and the nearby pila , for water. The following morning we crested the pass on the practically deserted, narrow highway, and passed through Capaso, where we found enough food in the basic tienda to resupply for two days. The road then led on, past a military base into a stunning volcano-ringed desert basin — the curvaceous cone of Antajave m dead ahead. We were alone on the road, on the calmest of mornings, warm and windless. A right turn takes us into one of the remotest sections of the ride, headed towards Laguna Vilacota — an 80km section linking two paved roads. On this entire stretch we were passed by only two motorbikes. At Laguna Vilacota we stopped for the night and took shelter in an abandoned house, its crumbling mud brick walls making a good shelter from a vigorous wind. The wind dropped a little around dusk and we witnessed another mind blowing sunset. The light in this region is quite amazing. Soon after getting going in the morning we approached the pueblito of Vilacota, dwarfed by a m peak in the background unnamed on the map. We were heard pedalling into town and some curious folk came out to say hello. As we move on the riding and landscape just gets better and better, with narrow tracks and big views and a peacefulness worthy of the moniker given to it by the few inhabitants: El Silencio. Battling a strong side- and head-wind on a lonely stretch of paved highway later in the day, we were expecting to see a laguna that was marked on the map. But in the distance all we could make out was tall waves of windborne sand being blown across the valley. The lake basin has completely desertified, and is slowly burying the remnants of a community that once farmed here. We escaped the sandstorm and rode on to the pueblito of Huaytire. People in the previous couple of villages had said there was an hospedaje and restaurant here, so we were cautiously looking forward to a bed and a feed after three nights camping. The hospedaje was as basic as we expected, just a scruffy room with a couple of beds layered in thick blankets, and a filthy bathroom shared with the owner of the property. But we did get a hot shower. Young people and some families having left for life in a city. We scratched together food for a couple more days from the tienda. Quinoa for dinner, bread rolls and tuna for lunch and a host of mostly junk food for snacks. Early the next morning we crossed the Abra Huaytire m and then descended into an increasing Mars-like landscape. Relatively recent activity from Volcan Ticsani, to which we were headed, has covered the surrounding altiplano in a thick layer of tephra and pumice. We filled our bottles there with 24 hours-worth of water and headed on, climbing on dirt tracks towards Volcan Ticsani. We crossed another saddle and dropped into an even more isolated, high altitude basin — our surroundings totally white with volcanic ash and pumice. A stunning place to ride. We crossed the basin and Volcan Ticsani began to loom larger in front of us. We were headed to a pass at m on the northern side of the mountain, where we planned to camp for the night and explore our surroundings a little. Boulders dot the slopes of the mountain around the pass, so we picked the biggest one and made ourselves at home, hidden from the afternoon wind. The result is pretty comfortable bivvy site. Just remember to bring water! In the late afternoon I walked for about an hour and quarter up to the summit of the peak on the north side of the pass, opposite Ticsani. Much of the landscape around here is red with volcanic toned earth or golden with tussock and that combined with clear high-elevation air seems to make for amazing light at times. A plan for an early — madrugada — start and sunrise on the summit was soon forming in my mind. Our location, right on the western edge of the altiplano was spectacular. To one side a volcano ravaged upland stretches away as far as the eye can see. And to the other the land falls away dramatically towards the Rio Tambo Canyon and the Pacific slope. I got back to camp about 7pm and we ate and settled down to sleep under the stars. We woke at 1. From camp to the summit at m took two hours, and with our quickish pace we really started to notice the altitude at about the m mark. As we neared the summit the moon sank behind layers of cloud. We spied distant lights and could just make out the Rio Tambo in the canyon nearly m below us. Dawn light crept over the land, bringing relief to myriad features of the landscape. The products of some colossal eruptions over thousands of years. And below, our route from the previous day traced a shadowy line across a landscape smoothed by several metres of ash and pumice. It was -5c and windy on top, so we had a lot of clothes on. After second breakfast in the warm sunshine of camp we packed up and were glad to drop lower, having been over m continuously for three days. We descended, then climbed to a final high point of m and found ourselves peering into the depths of the Rio Tambo and on the brink of a m descent. Finally, above Muylaque, m below the canyon rim, we caught sight of some greenery and a big village for the first time in days. For a moment I thought the profusion of green around the village was banana trees, and then realised it was a veritable forest of cactus which is grown widely here for its tuna — a sweet and delicious fruit. Sijuaya is a scrappy, shantytown of a place that looks as if all the roofs would blow away in the next cyclone, but it did have a very basic comedor where we could get meals and a municipal hospedaje that we unfortunately had to wait two hours to get into. The following day we had a big sleep in, followed by eggs, bread, avocado and coffee for breakfast at the tienda, and then hit the road about mid morning. In this part of the canyon, as we neared the river finally, it seemed as if the earth had split open. The slopes raw with loose rocks and volcanic debris. Rarely interrupted, except where enterprising farmers had directed water to nurture small patches of crops. Already a hot wind was blowing up canyon. A dehydrating, gusty wind that covered us in dust. My thermometer read 30 degrees c. A road bridge crosses the Tambo here, but we had to check out this Indiana Jones relic of rusty cables and a few rotten boards all bound together with expertly woven vines. As we descended into the canyon, we were passing beneath the south eastern side of Volcan Huaynaputina. And a relatively recent eruption at that: AD. At that time the Spanish had become well established in the region and Arequipa was already a thriving city. The eruption went on for some days as a series of ash and pumice eruptions, lahars and pyroclastics, utterly destroying the surrounding countryside up to 30 kilometres away; filling valleys with lahar debris and smothering the ground with over two metres of tephra and pumice. Even Arequipa, 70km distant, received 25cm of ashfall. Ten villages were completely destroyed or buried and between — people are thought to have died. Due to destruction of waterways, crops and agricultural sites, as far away as the cities of Arequipa and Moquegua, the carnage continued for some years in the form of famine and disease. Despite having taken place over years ago, the results of this eruption were still utterly tangible to us we we rode down the barren valley. The landscape has an unusually soft contour as its still covered in debris. Hardly anything grows on the surface — just the odd, ill looking cactus and scattering of thorny bushes. We picked up some supplies and water there in the late afternoon and rode on, looking for a campsite. We pushed the bikes up a small hill beside the road, on a finger of land that jutted out into the Tambo riverbed. An amazing campsite that allowed us to take in the scale of the valley and uniqueness of our surroundings. We were getting ready to lie down on our pumice bed when we saw the unmistakable flashing lights of a police vehicle approaching. It stopped on the road adjacent and three men got out and walked over the hill to our camp. It was a matter of formality for them as they checked our passports, asked us if we were cold, and then left us in peace for the night. The raw landscape continued in the morning, until eventually we turned right and began a nearly metre climb up a side valley to the town of Omate. We spent our final night on the road in Puquina, surrounded with spectacular andenes terraces , after a long day of climbing in the heat from Omate. We climbed for a couple of hours on our final morning, and then dropped into the long descent down into Arequipa, passing Volcan Picchu Picchu. Keep an eye on the website for some fresh content and route info for bike packing in the Americas. And if you happen to be headed to Arequipa on a bike yourself — drop us a message! The photos are amazing — the colours incredible. Would some of the better restaurants offer alpaca steaks? Especially when you can pluck one off the street! Or do they not eat much meat? Very ingenious. Thanks Madge! Very little English spoken actually. In fact for a lot of people in this region Spanish or Castellano as they call it here is a second language. Most people speak Quechua or Aymara. Wow, that is an awesome loop. Do you think clockwise or counterclockwise would put the wind more at your back? Hi Matt, Good question… the windiest section was the southern half headwinds for us as we headed west , but the hard into-the-wind sections were never more than about a hour of buffeting, so all quite manageable. Riding the route counter-clockwise from Arequipa would mean a brutally long climb out of the Tambo canyon, but arguably easier acclimatisation. Each direction has its pros and cons, that I think even out in the end. You have my utmost admiration. At 87, I may not see the day!! Do you think the Incas built the Pyramids? They have a similar block design. Central Otago apricots are our staple fruit. Travel safely! Hi Guys, What a circuit! South America is amazing for offering endless remote adventures, thanks for bringing this one to my attention. Did you know in advance the likely water availability or just went for it? Regards Peter. Hi Peter. Thank you. We planned the route studying maps and satellite photos. What we tend to do is look for water clues farm buildings, possible drainages etc and mark them as POIs on our planned GPX. You do need to be onto it with planning and having the capacity to carry plenty for this one about l. Full details for this route, including the northern leg, now published at Bikepacking. I love the documentation and the photos of your tours! My English is not very good, but I have some questions for you. Me and my wife have just decided to make a tour in Peru. We both found your tour through Bikepacking. And we are now considering either doing your tour Desaguadero — Arequipa or the tour Cones and Canyons. I wanted to ask which tour you liked better. Which of the two tours is easier to drive? What are the temperatures in June in this area? Is it very cold at night? It would be great if you write me back. Until then, I wish you a good trip. Thank you Marcus! Overall, the terrain on the two routes in similar. Both routes are equally difficult and have the same challenges such as rough or sandy roads in places, and of course altitude. In June on either route, you should be prepared for lows of C overnight. Day time temps tend to be warm to hot, especially if there is no wind, but there are sometimes hailstorms. This part of the Andes is warmer during the day than the northern parts of the Peru Divide. Dear Marc, thanks for the quick reply and the information! Yes degrees is already very cold. That takes up so much energy. Me and my wife are still thinking about doing that. By the way, we can highly recommend you Madagascar, there is almost no traffic and the landscapes are very beautiful. Hi Hana and Mark. We just completed the southern leg from La Paz to Arequipa. Absolutely stunning scenery and incredibly kind and friendly folks along the way. Thank you so much for documenting this route — it was an absolute pleasure to follow. Certainly a ride of a lifetime. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. All of your long-distance bikepacking questions answered here…. Sign up here to receive email notification of new blog posts and occasional newsletters. Close Search. The first real pass of our southern leg, a long and mostly gentle climb to m. You could call it a quiet sort of place. In fact there were more alpacas on the streets than people most of the time. To the north west Volcan Ubinas stood clear, on the other side of the Rio Tambo. So down it was, and down, and down. We felt very, very small. Meanwhile the full moon was rising, throwing an eerie illumination over this weird place. Thanks for following — more soon! Do you enjoy our blog content? Find it useful? We love it when people shout us a beer or contribute to our ongoing expenses! Creating content for this site — as much as we love it — is time consuming and adds to travel costs. Every little bit helps, and your contributions motivate us to work on more bicycle travel-related content. Up coming: GPX tracks. Join the discussion 13 Comments. Madge says:. December 10, at pm. Mark Watson says:. December 14, at am. Matthew Kadey says:. January 14, at pm. Peter Webber says:. January 17, at pm. January 18, at am. January 18, at pm. Markus says:. February 6, at am. February 7, at am. February 8, at am. George Saunders says:. August 10, at am. Leave a Reply Cancel Reply My comment is.. Share Tweet Share Pin. Read our Bikepacking e-Book. Subscribe Sign up here to receive email notification of new blog posts and occasional newsletters. About Us Mark Watson, Photographer. Spring nearly! Saturday on the one and only Ban. The variety of forest encountered on the Old Ghost. Two different otsocycles set ups for our recent w. Here's a few photos from a Matariki weekend missio. Follow on Instagram. Mark Watson.

Cocaine trafficking from non-traditional ports: examining the cases of Argentina, Chile and Uruguay

Tacna buying blow

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Tacna buying blow