Glass tile is gaining in popularity over ceramic tile as the surface of choice in home tiling projects. Although typically more expensive than ceramic tile, glass tile adds a handcrafted, artistic quality that is easily worth the cost. Glass tile comes in a variety of forms and colors, which depend on the process used to create them. Some tiles are cut and cold-cooled while others are melted, cast, and cooled. “In cold-manufacturing, there is no heat, just cutting of the glass,” says Grace Kalina of Boyce & Bean, a glass and clay manufacturing company in California. “On the other hand, cast glass involves mixing sands and chemicals and melting them in a tank, which is then dropped into trays for cooling.” The end result can vary by color, thickness, size, and shape. Some glass tiles contain tiny bubbles within each tile, which create a “still wet” look and makes for individual tiles that, like snowflakes, are one-of-a-kind. The varieties of glass tile allow for endless customization options, and its versatility opens the door to indoor and outdoor projects alike.
Glass is not always associated with durability, but in truth glass tile can be just as strong and long lasting as ceramic tile. By nature, glass tile retains certain properties that make it more resilient than ceramic tile. “Glass tile is not porous,” Kalina says, “so it does not absorb moisture.” Moisture penetration is the enemy of any tile project since it can spell mold and mildew. There is no such worry with glass tile as long as it is properly installed. Most tile installers will tell you there’s not much difference between installing ceramic tile and installing glass tile. “Installing glass tile is pretty straightforward,” says Thomas Hubbard, a tile installer in Burlington, Vermont. “Some installers get hung-up on the cutting of the glass, but in all it’s not that difficult to install.” Hubbard typically sees glass tile used as an accent, but it can be used for larger projects, including entire walls, or shower ceilings. Like ceramic tile, installing glass tile involves setting the glass onto the work surface.
Since glass tile is translucent, the thin-set is usually white; so as to maintain a clear background that doesn’t affect the glass color. “With glass tile, which is see-through, the thin-set or subsurface must be perfect,” says Kalina. “If the tile is used in the bottom of a swimming pool, for example, the thin-set must be smoothed out or it will show.” Grout for Long-Lasting Beauty Grout will also impact the durability and look of the glass tile installation. Epoxy grouts are becoming popular for use with glass tile because of their longevity, strength, and relationship with the glass. Grouts like SpectraLOCK or Kerapoxy have a chemical composition that resists stains and breakdown. They are also non-porous and non-absorbent. When mixed with antimicrobial products such as Microban, epoxy grouts also inhibit the growth of mold or mildew, a common occurrence with regular cement grout. “Cement-based grouts absorb moisture, so you have to seal the grout every two years,” Hubbard says.
Non-absorbent epoxy grouts require little maintenance, so while they may cost more than cement grout up front, they more than make up for it over time. The rubbery plastic-like characteristics of epoxy grouts make for a more challenging application, and a stronger finished product. “It takes a lot of elbow grease,” says Hubbard: “It also takes a lot of washing after. I’ll go over it several times with a light vinegar and water mix.” Epoxy grouts come in a variety of colors, can be mixed with additives to adjust hue or create sparkles, and will not fade or change color over time. Set times for epoxy grouts are comparable to their cement counterparts. “I usually recommend staying off it for 24 hours,” Hubbard advises.Measure from top of counter to bottom of cabinet and plan your tile layout (Image 1). Incorporate any accent tiles that you have planned for the design. Mark the center point of the wall and, with a level, draw a horizontal line across the wall from end to end.
Also measure up from the finished countertop to the bottom lip of the upper cabinets to determine the number of tile rows needed. Make sure to include 1/8” grout lines in your measurements. If you are keeping a countertop with a pre-built backsplash (common with laminate countertops like in this project), use the top of that backsplash as the base line for your first row of tiles. Determine whether you will need to cut tiles at either end of the wall or for the row abutting the upper cabinets. Mix the thin-set mortar according to manufacturer’s directions. Add mortar to water a little at a time while stirring; when ready it should be the consistency of creamy peanut butter. Wait about 10 minutes after the mortar is mixed to let it set. Apply thin-set to the wall with a 3/16-inch notched trowel to ensure proper depth. Apply thin-set in smooth, even strokes. Cover about a 2-square-foot area at a time. Keep a sponge and water handy for cleaning as you go.
Thin-set will stay workable for about 45 minutes but don’t apply too much at a time. A word of caution about glass tiles behind cook stoves: Some glass tiles have a much higher rate of expansion and contraction than do ceramic tiles. Ask the tile retailer (or manufacturer) for a movement joint schedule to help determine if you need to set grout lines slightly wider behind a hot stove. Also, some adhesives and sealants may react with the back coatings of some glass tiles, so make sure the manufacturer supplies you with a list of compatible adhesives and sealants. Starting with your bottom row of tiles, apply tiles to the thin-set. Press and wiggle each tile to set into the mortar, keeping each flat, plumb and level. Use 1/8-inch spacers to keep a consistent space between tiles as you go. You can pull out the spacers when the mortar starts to dry. Add accent tiles or liner bars where you designed them. Keep an eye on vertical and horizontal lines and use the level to keep you honest.
You can cut glass tiles to size using a manually operated Rubi cutter. Set the tile stop to the correct width, put the cutting blade down and score the tile with one smooth motion. Pull down the handle to snap the tile into two pieces. You may need to practice on several tiles to perfect the smooth motion that minimizes unwanted mistakes. If the cut end tiles are to be exposed, polish the cut edges with a grinding stone to give the tiles a more finished look. If you’ve got a lot of cutting to do or several difficult compound cuts like fitting tiles around electrical outlets, it’s best to use a wet saw to cut the tiles. Though it can cost $40 to $50 a day to rent, a wet saw can make the job of cutting tiles go very smoothly. To avoid scratching the glass tiles, grout with unsanded grout. After the mortar sets and the tiles have been cleaned of any excess mortar, mix up the unsanded grout to the consistency recommended by the manufacturer’s directions. Apply the grout with a float, gliding over the tiles at a 45-degree angle .