Easily change the entire look of your bathroom by adding tile.An updated bathroom can add instant beauty and value to your home. A new floor tile is a relatively inexpensive way to get started and this DIY project can be completed over a weekend. Use a tape measure to determine how much tile, mortar, grout and backingboard will be needed. Purchasing the right amount of tile at the beginning of the job reduces the risk of mismatches in texture or color between production lots. Attaching an underlayment of cement board to sub-flooring provides a level and sturdy surface to which bathroom tile can be easily attached. Using a circular saw, cut panels to fit measured bathroom and use a jigsaw to cut holes as needed to accommodate the toilet and other bathroom fixtures. Use a drill with driver bit to attach backerboard screws to underlayment to sub-floor. Space screws approximately 6 inches apart and make sure they rest flat once secured. If using a contrasting trim, lay edge tile first.
Then lay tile in a configuration that will use the most whole tiles and best fits the space. Use tile spacers to make sure tiles are square and evenly spaced. Position tiles to minimize visibility of tiles that must be cut to size. Once the best layout has been determined, measure tiles that must be cut to complete coverage. Use a tile saw to cut tiles necessary to complete floor. Place cut tiles to complete tile layout and confirm tiles are spaced evenly, are spare and that the layout is pleasing to the eye. Once satisfied with the layout, remove tile to apply thinset mortar. Apply a thin layer of thinset mortar to floor in small sections using a notched trowel. Replace tiles a few at a time, once again using spacers to help hold position. Once tiles are all in place, allow mortar to dry for 24 hours before continuing. Once mortar is dry, remove spacers, mix grout and use a grout float to completely fill spaces between tiles. Once grout has been completely applied, use a damp sponge to wipe away excess grout, leaving tiles clean and grout smooth and level.
Make sure to be thorough. Grout left behind on tile results in “grout haze”, which can be difficult to remove once grout has set. Grout will be ready to walk on within 24 hours, although may take several weeks to fully cure. Once grout is dry, finish your weekend tile project by applying a grout sealer to reduce staining and protect grout.Preparing to Install Floor Tile First, make sure you have prepared the subfloor properly before you begin laying tile. Before beginning, remove tiles from the different boxes and randomly mix them to ensure that minor color differences don’t form an unwanted pattern in your new floor. Keep in mind that floor tiles should be laid with the first tile centered in the middle of the floor, working onward from that. Mix the polymer-modified thinset mortar in a bucket to the consistency recommended by the manufacturer. Starting at the reference line cross in the middle of the room, spread the mortar with the thin side of the trowel in areas about 3 feet by 3 feet.
Make sure that the reference lines are not obscured. Apply the mortar using the notched side of the trowel held at a 45 degree angle. Comb the mortar in one straight direction to ensure uniform application. Remove excess mortar with the trowel and return it to the bucket. Good to KnowSome ceramic tiles have spacers built into the tile itself. Lay the first tile square at the crossing of the reference lines. For best results, lightly press and twist the tiles to set them in the mortar. Place tile spacers at the edges of the first tile. Continue laying tiles in the same manner along the reference lines, then add spacers. Once you have completed a work section, use a rubber mallet and carpenter’s level to level the tile. Remove any excess mortar with a damp sponge. Continue applying thinset mortar and laying the tile in work sections in the same manner. Make adjustments as needed so the tiles are aligned straight, especially along the longest dimension of the room where variations will show.
Apply thinset mortar and set the cut tile in position. Add tile spacers as needed. Allow the thinset mortar to dry for at least 24 hours or as recommended by the manufacturer before continuing. Good to KnowFor tiles that are 12 inch by 12 inch or larger it’s a good idea to back-butter or flat-coat the backs of the tiles with thinset prior to setting the tiles. Cutting and Fitting the Tile As you near cabinets, doorways, walls, and other flooring stops, trim tiles as needed for installation. Use a tile cutter for small, straight cuts. Use a tile saw (rentable) if necessary for cutting numerous or thick tiles. For making curved cuts, you can use tile nippers. If the tile is too thick for nippers, try the following method: Mark the curve on the tile. Make relief cuts with a tile saw. Snap off the pieces with tile nippers. Use a file to smooth down the edges. Use a tile edging strip along carpet, wood flooring and other entry ways. Just spread the thinset, then set the strip in the mortar.
The tile will hold it in place. Good to KnowRemember to cut tiles an extra 1/4 inch smaller at the edge of the flooring to allow for mortar and expansion. Smoothing Breaks in Tile Jagged Edges: Use tile nippers or pliers to nibble off the uneven edge of a broken tile. Rough Edges: Use a round file to smooth rough edges of areas that have been nibbled away. Cut Edges: If a straight-cut edge shows, rub it against a sheet of 80-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper to round and smooth the edge. Grouting a Tile Floor Remove the tile spacers from between tiles. Mix the grout following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure you use the proper water-to-mix ratio for a paste-like consistency. (If you have well water, purchase distilled water to mix the grout.) Apply the grout into the joints, then diagonally across the joints with a rubber grout float, removing as much excess as possible. Allow the grout to dry for 20 minutes or as recommended by the manufacturer.