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Three years after Covid forced me out and a major heart surgery threw a wrench in my travel plans, I finally made it back to Armenia last weekend. It was amazing how quickly the warmth of Armenians and reconnecting with old friends melted away the anxiousness I had about travelling to the southern Caucasus region. My worries were never of the normal kind, i. Would there still be a connection to, and love for, the communities where I trained and worked. I was more concerned about being fit enough for the journey. My current adventure began with new target destinations: to see parts of the country I had not yet visited; and this thanks to having a good rental car at my disposal. This small, unassuming town nestled in between cliffs and canyon made for a nice respite from the stress of air travel. It also filled me with hope for all that tourism can, and hopefully will one day, offer local and regional businesses in Armenia. The trail also offers a break from the intense summer sun that warms all of southern Armenia. Cliff overhangs and large boulders even a rock arch cool the canyon and make the hike all the more pleasant. The sound of rushing water shushing eager hikers soon reveals itself to be an amazing waterfall towering from the hilltop above. Many travellers will journey to Jermuk to enjoy the curative spring waters, to relax or to seek rehabilitation. Odd traveller that I am, I went there to be hugged by the hillsides, calmed by the canyon river and streams and to listen to nature telling me to slow down. It felt good to be back in those Armenian mountains; it felt good to be back in, and embraced by, one of the lands I now call home. Now is the moment where the change starts to gel or solidify. Memories are beginning to fade, and moments of daily life are more distant … saying hello to Manvel who lived in the first floor of my building. He knew three sentences in English, but he greeted me religiously every time I walked by. Always reminding me that I was welcome in Vanadzor and in Armenia in general. Now as the Czech summer ends and I watch videos, listen to songs, or browse through photos so I can cling to the recollections of my Armenian adventure, I gradually merge the similarities of three specific places I once called home. I spent my childhood wanting to escape small town life. My dad had aspirations that I would become a farmer and work with animals: as had been his dream. But my hopes went farther. But I knew I wanted life beyond any local farm. Funny thing is though: despite becoming a city-slicker, I never forsook my rural upbringing or time spent working with my dad, uncles and grandmother. Good people are worth listening to. Something inside me tends to be averse to seeking out conversation. However, many places I have lived so easily lent themselves to impromptu chats and discussion. They all began as strangers to me, yet we ended with many bonds: some had family that had emigrated, others had seen American TV shows or had travelled to Prague on a family holiday. It was my wary, skeptical entries into these numerous, ad hoc chats that confirmed to me that as citizens of the world we are all ostensibly different but very much still the same in our curiosity and desire to learn about and connect with others. The women of my past prepared me for my future. As mentioned above, it was the women of my childhood who told me of the world outside my hometown. They assured me that studying and hard work would give me access to that world. And as the years prove them right, I remember and channel their spirits as I mull new adventures and live new experiences. In my mind, I talked to Elsie as I admired the gardens of many an Armenian grandmother. I give thanks to Louise and Mildred for their nurturing my interest in languages and travel and for helping make possible my first TWA flight to Paris. But I am forever grateful for the lessons they taught me and the people from those places who enriched my spirit more than I ever could have imagined. When I think back on my time in the East And entering a land about which I knew little With no idea what to expect Of the people that await. Smiles were abundant Coffee was plenty A step over any threshold Was a call for plates of sweets And the best any household had to offer. As I approach the year fifty And berate myself For not owning a house, not owning a car While still asking almost daily What ownership means. I have so many possessions That I keep inside me Stores of memories, laughter, tears and embraces And stories or legends shared Of lessons my life road has taught me. I no longer worry About the property I have not yet collected For my most valuable possession Is the real estate of my heart. I was looking at some pictures today and noticed that a year ago this time, I was a week away from getting sworn in as a Peace Corps volunteer in Armenia. It was a strange, amusing experience. I knew mulberries from my childhood in Missouri. Taste-wise, they were tolerable, but I had never been particularly fond of them. They seemed sweeter and there were two kinds: dark and white ones. I had never seen white ones elsewhere. On top of that I learned that Armenians also distill their mulberries and make a very potent alcoholic drink from them. Some might call it brandy in the way people tend to call the distillate from plums in central and eastern Europe plum brandy locally referred to there using a variation of the word slivovice deriving from the word slivka for plum. Otherwise, in the color sense, it looks what a Missouri kid like me would have called plum moonshine, i. All the same, the stuff is strong. And, as I tend to do with the plum brandy from Moravia, I drank a shot first thing in the morning when I felt a cold or sore throat coming on. Just one shot, mind you. With that intro, I wanted to highlight some of the fruit experiences I enjoyed when I was living in Armenia. They are so rich, sweet and juicy and can be put to many uses. I would always eat them with my host dad Artur when we had evening coffee. In addition to that, apricots are dried and stored for the winter: still, the dried fruit has a flavor and juiciness that makes you think it was harvested not more than a week ago. Finally, there is the prized apricot jam that Armenian women all over the country make during late spring. I smuggled two jars of that home to give to friends. These are one of my favorite fruits anytime I can get them: fresh from the market or picked from a bush in the wild. On various islands, it was common to pick a handful of figs during pitstops when returning after a day of swimming and sun. There is something about fresh figs that makes them feel like a guilty pleasure; the fact that the vendors at the outdoor markets in Vanadzor would slip me a couple extra when I was shopping always made my day. By late June, melon season had arrived in Armenia and sidewalks everywhere were stocked with them. Of course, they were sold by local fruit-vegetable merchants, but it appeared that seasonal melon-vending was a way to generate cash for a number of other entrepreneurial locals as well. And thank goodness for that. Melon was another summertime staple for my coffees with Artur. Depending on what was available, we would chomp on cold watermelon with our rich, dark Armenian coffee, or we would enjoy the spicy flavor and scent of cantaloupe: both added to the spoils we collected from the family garden; specifically, the cherries. They are also eaten fresh or cooked for jams. And in some cases, the locals make them into the juice compote. I actually grew quite fond of them as a nice way to round off my evening meal; a slightly healthier version of dessert. But if you make it to Armenia, treat yourself to the wide variety of fruits in the outdoor markets. I was trying to get into the mood to write and share something with my readers that would have an interesting, cohesive element. I have lived in the Czech Republic for almost 26 years now and just got back from a sabbatical in Armenia. When I write I like to think of things about both countries that are similar to, and which in some ways remind me of, my childhood in Missouri. The answer was animals. I grew up in a rural community in northern Missouri. My maternal grandfather and his brothers grew angus cattle; my paternal grandmother kept a small number of animals in her backyard farm; and my dad raised cattle, sheep, or what have you on land he rented. It always surprises my friends from the city, when I tell them stories of how I spent the late springtime of my pre-teen years plucking chickens or how, as an even younger child, I helped my dad and his friends butcher cattle or pigs. That said, my stay in Armenia often brought back memories of my rural childhood and farm-adjacent life. One occurrence that always made me smile was the work of local shepherds. On occasion I would run into them on hikes. Other times, I would meet some smaller animals in the park. As the bushes swished behind my bench, I assumed that either squirrels or birds were foraging. As I watched them, it came to mind that domesticated animals are a unifying force across the world. In almost any country, you can wake up to the crows of an early-rising rooster. Or you can slalom on your bike as curious hens scurry across roads or field paths in search of bugs for their lunch. In Armenia, I most loved the proximity of the animals; for it took me back to my childhood. A time when I knew the provenance of the meat and dairy products we put on our table; also an age when I had a love-hate relationship with chores related to caring for livestock. But most of the time it was a way to escape: school life, family disputes or just the general noise of the world. This is one of my favorite herbs. I belong to the former group and was always delighted when my host family would send me back to my home in the north with a sack full of dill. I love that many countries seem to have their different takes on how to use dill. Whereas the Armenians would often use it to flavor carrot, cucumber or lentil salads, the Czechs use it as the base for a wonderful white sauce served with braised beef koprovka or as the main herb in a potato-mushroom soup called kulajda. This is another herb that tends to polarize. It is interesting that the locals tend to use herbs in two specific ways when cooking, and you would often see them eat coriander in such fashion. There is the traditional method of chopping the herb and integrating it into salads, sauces or soups. I never really saw tarragon used other than it being chomped on while raw, e. I found it enjoyable in small doses; specifically, for its peppery-, anise- or licorice-like flavor. Plus, it was interesting to see that someone somewhere had come up with the idea to make tarragon soda pop. The bright green color was equal parts intriguing and scary, while the soda was refreshing: again in small doses. I never quite found a suitable use for this herb. We had it in heaps in my childhood gardens and flower beds in northern Missouri. However, I find it to be more assertive than sweet green basil, and thus more difficult to cook with. Most of the time, I took this colorful herb and chopped it up for use fresh garden salads I would make; also using it in sparing quantities. This is one of the sweetest surprises to be found during hikes along the mountain ridges in the Lori region where I lived. However, life here in Prague one month in is just plain odd. The return to a past life in the new corona world is complicated. For two weeks after getting back, all past tangible, physical relationships became virtual. Luckily, I knew and could see all my closest friends were safe and healthy, but they were just images in devices. I think that practice for me is the oddest of all. For someone who has lived a world away from his family for most of his adult life AND who is not tactile at all, I really did miss hugging my friends back into my world. Is the elbow touch OK? Embraces are off limits, right? But we do have our masks on, so would a quick hug be safe? But mainly gratitude … with statements or thoughts similar to those below:. It feels like last week was the moment reality set in. After having had to leave northern Armenia suddenly because of the situation with COVID and the realities of the new corona world, just 5 days ago I realized I had so much unfinished business in and around my adopted city of Vanadzor. Of late, I like to blame Facebook for my melancholy. That little tool contains a whole lot of bittersweet. My colleagues and I who left Armenia are well aware that there are persons in the world with bigger concerns and who are living in much more dire situations. My decision to travel to Armenia was one based on a need for change, a need to get away from the virtual world of marketing and communications for awhile, and a thirst for finding an experience that was genuine. When the world re-opens and travel resumes, I encourage my readers to go enjoy, if they have the chance, a few sites I missed in Armenia and which I hope to one day see …. But this is the spot in which I find myself at the moment. For as the Armenians of the diaspora know all too well, I will one day find my way back home. Some of my favorite memories of life in Armenia relate to food. Armenians are a wonderfully hospitable people and anywhere you go, you will be offered something to eat and drink. For me, personally, my best memories relate to trying to wind my way through the long market streets to pick up supplies for my weekend cooking. Armenian outdoor markets come to life especially on weekends, but they are equally busy during weekdays. In my city, Vanadzor, the market often seemed to spill out on to the main street and fruit and vegetable vendors popped up wherever the sidewalks offered space. I tended to be a big fan of the local greens. Never in my life had I seen such variety and freshness. My typical shopping basket included fresh spinach, cilantro, dill, basil usually the purple variety, as sweet basil was not as common , romaine lettuce, bib lettuce, tarragon and green onions. I generally tried to spread my shopping across multiple vendors: this allowed me to get to know different people working in the markets and also to test the quality of different goods. One of my guilty pleasures, when doing my market shopping, was picking up some fresh button mushrooms for later use in garden salads or for making omelets. I have no idea where the local farmers grow their mushrooms, but they had such a wonderful aroma and flavor. Sometimes I questioned whether I had been shopping in the wrong markets in Europe I had lived in Prague prior to traveling to work in Armenia , or whether Armenians simply had a magic touch in growing my favorite fungi. Another joy of my market days was using my shopping time to get to know vendors. Taking a few extra moments to talk with the stall owners always led to small joys like better prices on meat or samples of different fruits. Also, once I had become a regular customer to a handful of street vendors, I would sometimes get an extra potato or two with my purchase or get some extra apricots for the fruit bowl on my living room table. I highly recommend dropping by an outdoor market if you find yourself travelling through Armenia. I woke up this morning in a state of denial and confusion. Our group had been put on stand-by and was ready to evacuate if need be. In the end we did. For me, that day was 18 March For the moment, it all feels like a weird dream. But the most urgent thing I want to write about, or the thing that constantly comes to mind, is the feeling of family. After just one year in Armenia, I feel that I have been separated from part of my family my fellow volunteers who have gone back to their homes in the USA and have left another family behind all the Armenians with whom I had the good fortune to work and collaborate during that short year in their country. Prior to leaving Armenia, I took part in a TV interview to speak about my service in the north central part of the country. Since I attempted to brave that process while speaking in my pigeon Armenian, I found it difficult at times to say eloquently just how much the chance at experiencing life there meant to me. However, based on the constant pain this separation has caused in my heart, I think I can say some change happened. Firstly, I would like to speak to the change a small family in southern Armenia caused in my life and hopefully I in theirs. At 47, I was twice the age of most of my other fellow volunteers and that was, I believe, a bit odd for the host families. These Armenian families are so gracious, and they take you into their homes not having any clue what sort of situation they will find themselves in. From my end, I am older and never had a family of my own. I had lived alone for most of my adult life. Suddenly, I was living in a family with three daughters, mom and dad, and a grandfather. I had my own room, but it was clear the impositions that I was putting on the family. All the daughters had to pick up camp and move to another bedroom shared with their parents: all because of me. It was only over time that I came to realize this, and it touched my heart how much space this family was willing to give up take me in and learn what life in America was like. That said, I was concerned that I had failed them on that count as well. As said above, I was older. Then, add to that the fact that when I reverted to my previous daily language I was speaking in Czech: an idiom that had been my daily go-to for the past 20 years. It made my family laugh when I kept explaining that the filler words I would slip into sentences, mostly unwittingly, were Czech … not my mother tongue, English. We just agreed I was weird and laughed. With my abrupt departure from Armenia, it was painful not to get to see my first host family in person one last time. Although I know we will meet again soon after the world heals itself and the corona virus comes under control. However, there is solace in the fact that the weird, old volunteer that I am is now forever irrevocably bound to an Armenian family: and not just one. I left behind what might be a future educator, a future artist or a future actress. And that hope keeps my current pain at bay. Note: there are lot of thoughts going through my head at the moment post-service , and I will write one or two more comments on my connections and shared experiences with Armenian families in my future blog updates. Disclaimer: This blog is used to express my own thoughts and feelings. My comments are purely my own and do not reflect any official views or opinions of the US Peace Corps or the US government. Skip to content Armenia. I know that somehow I will find my way back to Armenia one day. And next time I hope to be able to say good-bye on my own terms. I miss Armenian hospitality and thankfulness. I am, and was, always touched by how communities that might not have a lot, compared to what we call the West , in material terms are so consistently gracious in sharing what they do have. You will never leave an Armenian home hungry or thirsty. I became so spoiled by the vistas of the snow-capped peaks to which I woke every morning. The ridges that encircled and protected Spitak and Lernapat to the west; and which walled us off from Georgia to the north. Returning from volunteer service is a weird process because of the singular experience that Peace Corps offers and creates. Blog at WordPress. Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

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One out of every three Armenians lives somewhere other than Yerevan, Gyumri, Vanadzor, Kapan and Goris; somewhere that makes a small dot on a map, if at all. More than one million Armenians using official census numbers make a living or eke out an existence in rural settlements, often having turned to farming for sustenance that was no longer assured once Soviet-era factories were shut down. The government assumes that if a villager has land, he is employed by the earth, from which he is paid in produce or on which his cattle graze. Primarily as it concerns farming, development suffers the effect of the deep-rooted habit in villagers to totally rely on the state—a faulty reliance that still ignores the shift from socialism, to free-market-based survival. Simply, the majority of villagers are unable to make their living solely by working their land or breeding livestock. The three successive governments of Armenia have certainly made efforts over the past years to improve conditions; however, the global economic crisis revealed the unproductiveness of state attempts. The population of Armenia has grown poorer by more than 20 percent since , according to the National Statistics Service. The current government named agriculture an economic priority, however the efforts of the executive body did not yield tangible results, and it was not until when farming production dropped 15 percent, due to bad weather and bad planning, that alarms were sounded. The Minister of Agriculture was fired, and new strategies were announced. These measures are expected to yield positive results in year-end reports. How they were going to exempt it twice is a mystery, but anyway they stated that we were going to have a percent drop in fertilizer prices after the government subsidy. Instead, we now have a percent price hike. Aghvan Arakelian, a resident of Yeraskhavan village, Armavir province, grows watermelons, melons and peppers. In season when he has to fertilize crops, he is often short of cash so buys fertilizer on credit. There is no progress. According to the study conducted by the SCPEC since March , three companies have a dominant position in the fertilizer market—Catherine Group, Agrimatco Ltd, and Masis Fertility, which have 30, 24 and 22 percent shares, respectively. Berberian says that reforms planned in are still awaiting implementation a year later. Officials disagree with this claim. Minister Karapetian, when summarizing , said a number of reforms and projects had been carried out and innovations introduced. Berberian praises government steps to import high-quality cereal grain seeds, but believes that some prior sample experiments of grain varieties would have been proper. Among the achievements of , Minister Karapetian also points out agricultural produce fairs organized every weekend in Yerevan since late August, during which villagers were able to sell their produce first-hand, without middlemen and extra expenses. Still, complaints surface, as the new initiative was afflicted by old methods of opportunism. The result for some is to take full control of their labor: till the ground, plant the seed, fertilize, weed the crops, harvest, haul, then sell door to door. Twice a week, Naghdalian and his wife take their dairy products and fruit and vegetables to Shengavit district—only about 3 miles from their village—and sell in courtyards of residential buildings. With this direct-sell method, a liter of yogurt matsun , for example, is sold by the Naghdalians for drams about 77 cents —nearly half the cost and perceived to be of higher quality of commercially processed yogurt in the shops. Not all villagers, though, have private vehicles and have no other way but to sell their products to middlemen for a lower price right off their farm. A major step by the current government has been to introduce low-interest loans for small farms. Further, loans issued to the poorest villages have been subsidized by six percent, leaving an eight-percent interest loan available for those applicants. At the end of the year, however, when he was making a payment, he was told that he had to pay also the four-percent government subsidy. Arsen Petrosian, deputy director of ACBA, says to the contrary that the subsidies were returned in two ways—to groups of villagers who had paid their interest rates, and individually, within five days after a villager paid off his loan. In , 95 percent of farm loans subsidized by the state were administered by ACBA. It has to be given at the right time and in the right amount. Ex-Chairman of the Central Bank of Armenia Bagrat Asatrian, currently in charge of Garni Invest Universal Credit Organization and a strong voice in oppositional politics , says that as compared to other sectors, the level of agricultural lending in Armenia is rather low. President of Union of Armenia Bank Ashot Osipian counters that agriculture lending is not an easy process and is complicated by a number of issues. Or, say, animals do not have documentation, which would tangibly lower the risk. Nonetheless banks are interested in agricultural lending because of the high level of competition among banks, and they keep looking for new areas for crediting. Economist Artsvik Minasian believes that no fundamental issue will be solved by lowering loan interest rates. In such circumstances no investment project can be implemented in agriculture. In other words, the economist is saying that the current lending assistance only addresses survival, not development. A villager takes a loan at the beginning of the season, pays it off at the end, and needs to repeat the cycle the next spring. Further, the unpredictable shift of dollar-dram relations creates certain risks. If he paid the loan off a year later, on January 15, , the dollar value was Republican lawmaker Hakob Hakobian, chairing the National Assembly Standing Committee on Social Affairs, says that in both the size of agro-loans and the number of loan takers increased. In , for example, some had difficulties in paying off their loans, which makes only 0. Unlike farming, the fish industry is one part of agriculture where operating on credit is a more predictable proposition. Banks can confidently look at the steady growth of aquaculture over the past several years in Armenia. Last year, gross production of fish reached 6, tons, exceeding the mark by 1, tons, with export volumes hitting 1, tons—triple the amount of just a few years ago. Among the species bred in Armenia, salmon prevails some 50 percent , along with rainbow trout, golden trout, river trout, and sturgeon 15 percent as well as others. Hovhannisian stresses that low prices for fish bred in Armenia have spurred export to Europe and Russia. In , tons were exported; in the number more than doubled to tons, and nearly tripled again to 1, tons in While other sectors of agriculture do not have favorable conditions for development in Armenia, the primary issue for the fish industry is to secure consumption. According to some calculations, if demand can be generated, within four years the annual production volume can be increased to 28, tons. Fish breeding, nonetheless, has its negative effects, as, environmentalists say, the industry is exhausting water resources in the Ararat valley. Hovhannisian says that some fisheries are now trying to use a water-circulating system to avoid water abuse. There certainly is a risk that careless, uncontrolled use of water can lead to depletion and drying out of fresh water. No doubt, water must be used wisely, with caution, but not by a closed water circulation system, rather by using the same water for breeding the same species, say, by building reservoirs of different levels: in the first—upper-level reservoir water can be used for salmon, the second—midlevel—for sturgeon, then for carp, then for crucian carp, and so on. The next most active sector of agriculture is poultry farming, which presently has a lower capacity than in Soviet times. In the s Soviet Armenia had 30 small and medium poultry farms producing million eggs and 32, tons of poultry per year. As opposed to fish breeding and poultry farming, apiculture beekeeping in Armenia does not have much room for growth, although honey produced here holds high esteem internationally by quality and taste criteria. According to various sources, there were around , beehives in Armenia during Soviet times, the number of which decreased drastically in the s, dropping to only 80, Over the recent years, apiculture in Armenia started growing rapidly again, and as of the number of hives had reached , While in they produced 2, tons of honey, in it was 3, tons and in the number reached 4, tons. The steady price reflects the fact that, when volumes were low, the retail was expensive. Now that volume has increased, the price has adjusted to a more moderate level, considering the general increase in cost of living. Government-initiated steps aimed at improving and developing agriculture have generated a need for new professions. Today the university has expanded to 37 professions and 10, students. The newly added professional training in a number of professions and specializations, such as agrarian policy, agro-business and market studies, fish and fish product technologies, land development, and others, is meant to spur specialized fields as well as development of the general agro-industry. Rector of the Agrarian University Arshaluys Tarverdian is convinced that the state-adopted strategy and the projects as part of that strategy aimed at developing agriculture in Armenia can be successfully implemented only through a qualified workforce. However, we set high criteria for ourselves and can state with certainty that we still have a lot more to do in training competent professionals. Archived content may appear distorted on your screen. You may opt out at any time. Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy. The Farms and Villages of Armenia. Berberian says that due to the high cost of fertilizer, soil is sparingly treated, if at all. Seeds of reform Berberian says that reforms planned in are still awaiting implementation a year later. Lending help A major step by the current government has been to introduce low-interest loans for small farms. Alternative farming Unlike farming, the fish industry is one part of agriculture where operating on credit is a more predictable proposition. New challenges, new professions Government-initiated steps aimed at improving and developing agriculture have generated a need for new professions. Each issue delivers insights and perspective on subjects and themes relating to the Armenian world, accompanied by original photography, exclusive high-profile interviews, fun facts and more. Leave this field blank. Get the latest on all events, programs and happenings at AGBU!

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