Surf Hurt Nurse

Surf Hurt Nurse




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Surf Hurt Nurse
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Jan 13th, 2021. Updated over 1 year ago.
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It’s a grim thing to talk about, but the fact that nobody has died while surfing Nazaré in Portugal is somewhat shocking.
There have been close calls, no doubt, like when Brazil’s Maya Gabeira drowned after a wipeout in 2013, then was resuscitated on the sand and brought back to the world of the living; and last year, during the Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge , when Portugal’s own Alex Botelho got bucked off a jetski and sent to the hospital for over two weeks.
But those two incidents – and countless more less-publicized episodes – have spawned a new, much-needed call for safety at the World’s Biggest Wave. Gabeira, Botelho, and longtime Nazaré stalwart Sebastian Steudtner have formed a safety coalition, called Nazaré Surf Rescue , aimed at preventing the unthinkable and ensuring the safety of all surfers in the water.
“As a surfer you think about what surfboard should I use, what equipment should I use – and then you think you’re safe, that’s it,” said Steudtner. “But it’s about what to do when things go wrong. It got us thinking like, if this thing happens, we’re dead. And if this other thing happens, we’re dead…really a lot of opportunities to be dead. So, it was time to think about safety seriously.”
To hear more about the movement, which started last November by the way, magicseaweed’s Jason Lock caught up with Botelho, Gabeira, and Steudtner. Check out their chat below.
Steudtner, pioneering at Nazaré in 2015 (aka: the early days). Photo: Hugo Silva/Red Bull Content Pool
SS: When Maya drowned, Nuno, a lifeguard on the beach resuscitated her and he’s now our head of safety. It was lucky she just had water in the lungs and came back pretty quick.
Anyway, we have a trained safety doctor who has started coming on the big days. He was always flying in on his free time and was a bit of a volunteer for five years. I was happy with that, there weren’t any crazy situations and we felt safe. Then came the WSL contest.
There was a bit of a struggle to get a certain safety system in place. We didn’t want to have a separate safety team that wasn’t organized by us. There were three emergency doctors though, 16 people on the beach, nurses, lifeguards and it was supposed to be, by far, the safest day possible. And even with all that support around, Alex [Botelho] had that major wipeout. He floated to the beach and almost died. When that happened, I realized we’re so far away from being prepared for what we’re doing. We needed to be responsible for our sport, our surfers… everyone.
Anyway, I finished that season and this really got to me. Not because I really like Alex – he’s one of the greatest people in our sport from all aspects – but because we had to take some responsibility. So Alex, Maya and I met up with the city hall at Nazare and some legal people and we decided to create the Nazare Surf Rescue Association which is dedicated to providing professional service during emergencies – for the entire swell season at Nazare.
Alex and Maya, you know firsthand: how important is safety out there?
AB: Yeah, we need to have more safety here. Hopefully the organization will help with common education between the people who are first assessing a rescue.
This association aims to gather anyone who is present or wishes to be present in any matter around safety in Nazare, to educate and train safety practices so we are all on the same page. I believe it’s a logical solution to increase safety and help avoid serious accidents in the biggest and most dangerous wave in the world.
MG: The performance in big wave surfing continues to evolve but little has evolved in the safety of the sport, with lack of investment and time put into it. Nazare, being the biggest and most dangerous wave in the world, has the chance to lead in that department and it should.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Nazaré Surf Forecast
So, what does the safety team look like?
SS: We’ve got a full-time emergency doctor, two guys from Nazare and we’ve started training with lifeguards, the beach crew, fire department and we’re now rolling out training for the athletes. We want the whole community trained and prepared.
We’re also going to get a development program on how we can improve equipment. One of the issues with Alex’s incident was that his vest wasn’t inflated – and there was no way to inflate it. In the air bag industry, everything is sensory controlled, so we’re working on creating a vest that is triggered from the outside and has different bladders. Also, little things like putting another handle on the sled so you can grab on better.
SS: Yeah, it is all about education. Nazare is this place right now where you can show up, you can go as crazy as you want. You can wipeout so hard and be a viral hit. And that’s kind of the problem. Our safety idea is not to be the police.
There’s a lot of great examples around the world that have similar issues. Hawaii – they had a tow wave license to ride a ski. South Africa you had to stay for a season and then you could apply for a license. The first phase is to assess everything and bring it all to the table and sit down with the community, the surfers – it’s not our job to regulate and the police say it’s not their job, but we need someone to be safe.
If someone dies, the question will be: why were they allowed to paddle out? What safety was there? All those things will be asked of the whole community, then there could be a move to shut the place down.
Talk about the public training sessions and membership…
SS: We’ve got public training sessions. But obviously, there’s restrictions right now that’ll stop a lot of things. But there will be weekly sessions for anyone to come along to.
We’re all sharing techniques too. Rodrigo Koxa has come up with some great ideas. And then from every swell we do a recap with everyone surfing and get feedback to see what we can improve.
The training sessions are free for members of the association and anyone can join the association. The membership fee is 25 euros for the year. And it’s not just the big wave surfers; we have different types of membership, too. As a full member you can meet the spotters, lifeguards, rescue teams, everyone.
Then we have a support membership, which might be for the person who sees the vids online and thinks, ‘that’s rad. I can’t get there but I want to support these guys and girls.’ Same amount, 25 euros. They’ll get exclusive content and surfers send vids to them. Get the newsletter, notifications, things like that.
The third one is partners. It could be brands or any business that wants to contribute to our safety.
For people traveling to surf Nazare, what would be your advice?
AB: The advice I’d give is the same for any traveler arriving at any place. Be respectful for the surroundings you have arrived at, observe it before you intervene, understand who and what (people, wildlife, landscape) integrates a place and respect them, and come with a humble and respectable approach. Attempt to learn and integrate, and all doors will slowly open.
MG: Reach out to the association and learn about the ways to be safer in Nazare. Get as much knowledge as they want from it for their benefit. There is power in knowledge and by having an association to share it with everyone, the athletes should be able to make better decisions about safety out there.
Learn more about Nazare Surf Rescue here .
How the evolution of big-wave safety training is saving lives
Big-wave surfer (and part-time author) shares her story with “Maya and the Beast”
An inside look at Steudtner's Guinness World Record breaker from 2020
The Surf Responder Summit offers fundamental skills in ocean safety and surf preparedness taught by the world’s best waterman and waterwomen
All of which could save someone’s life…
Maya Gabeira snags the Guinness World Record; Justine Dupont disagrees
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Posted Tue 19 Dec 2017 at 7:01pm Tuesday 19 Dec 2017 at 7:01pm Tue 19 Dec 2017 at 7:01pm , updated Tue 26 Dec 2017 at 11:12pm Tuesday 26 Dec 2017 at 11:12pm Tue 26 Dec 2017 at 11:12pm
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Posted 19 Dec 2017 19 Dec 2017 Tue 19 Dec 2017 at 7:01pm , updated 26 Dec 2017 26 Dec 2017 Tue 26 Dec 2017 at 11:12pm
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Beach safety: How to spot a rip and avoid dangerous surf, jellyfish and sharks
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The last boogie-board has been jostled into the boot, you've stocked up on sunblock and, whether you call them togs, bathers, cossies or swimmers, there's a pair for every day of the week tucked into the beach bag.
But before you dash down the sand and plunge into those foam-topped waves, ask yourself: Do I know how to spot a rip or treat a jellyfish sting? How worried should I be about sharks? And is being dumped by a gnarly wave simply an Australian rite of passage or a danger that should be taken a bit more seriously?
In the past year, 116 people have drowned on Australia's coastline, according to Surf Life Saving Australia.
Many more had non-fatal drowning incidents that have lifelong health complications, and more still suffered spinal, head and other injuries in the surf.
So refresh your beach safety knowledge, starting with coastal scientist Associate Professor Rob Brander's advice to approach a swim the way you would when preparing to cross a busy road.
"You don't cross the road without looking both ways; you don't go to the beach without spending five minutes looking at it."
And remember, this is no substitute to swimming on a patrolled beach between the red and yellow flags.
One of the things that make rip currents, known as rips, so insidious is that they can look like the safest place to swim.
A rip is the path the water being pushed onto the shore by the waves takes to run back into the ocean, so they often appear as dark, relatively calm channels between the white breaking waves.
But these dark channels actually indicate fast-moving currents moving out to sea.
They're dangerous because people can become exhausted trying to swim against the current back to shore, or they can push inexperienced swimmers out into deep waters where they can't stand up.
According to Surf Life Saving Australia, most Australians don't know how to spot a rip, and two out of three people who think they can get it wrong.
"There's a big disconnect where we need people to stop overestimating their ability," Surf Life Saving Australia coastal safety manager Shane Daw said.
"Things can go wrong and they can go wrong very quickly."
Associate Professor Brander stresses the importance of staying calm if you do find yourself caught in a rip.
"The main rule of thumb is if you notice yourself drifting off shore, it's important not to panic. Your body can float, it's not going to take you to New Zealand," he said.
"You just need to think of it as a ride. Relax, don't fight it and call for help from lifeguards or nearby surfers if you need it."
The waves are the main reason many of us are at the beach in the first place, but they can be one of the shoreline's biggest hazards.
After motor vehicle accidents, waves are one of the biggest causes of spinal injuries in Australia, according to Associate Professor Brander.
Dumping waves curl over and crashes down, often onto a shallow sandbank.
Surf life savers often see people getting spinal injuries, broken limbs, concussions and head injuries from getting dumped in the surf, Mr Daw says.
Less dramatic but also dangerous are surging waves , where the wave never really breaks but can surge a long way up the beach, knocking you off your feet.
Young children, elderly people and unconfident swimmers can be swept up in these kinds of waves, so always keep an eye on vulnerable people in your party and never turn your back on the ocean.
"When you have children with you, be sure that you supervise them at all times. It only takes a moment for someone to drown, and it's a silent activity," Mr Daw said.
The ideal wave type is a spilling wave, which crests on itself and spills down the surface of the wave.
Again, the experts advise spending five or 10 minutes standing back and looking at the conditions to see what kinds of waves you're dealing with on the day.
"Being in the waves is an amazing amount of fun; it can also be risky if you don't know what you're doing," Mr Daw said.
No one wants a sting of any sort, but how worried you should be about a run-in with a jellyfish depends on your latitude.
Jellyfish researcher Doctor Lisa Gershwin:
"In general, tropical things can be life-threatening; non-tropical things generally aren't."
"But you still need to be a little savvy about it because jellyfish don't read maps."
Source: Australian Resuscitation Council
The main dangers in tropical waters are box jellyfish and irukandji, which can both be deadly but are virtually invisible in the water.
"I always cringe when people say to me 'I know what to look for'. The fact you think you do frightens me," Dr Gershwin said.
"We don't look out for the jellyfish because you wont see them. What we look out for are the conditions that can give us signals of when things are likely to show up."
On tropical beaches , warning signs for these dangerous stingers include:
These warning signs don't always show up "but they're dead giveaways if we do see them", Dr Gershwin says.
A big step to avoid being stung is to only swim at patrolled beaches. And Dr Gershwin said that, of the types of protections that have been tested, a full-body lycra suit or neoprene wetsuit was best.
Outside of the tropics , the things that sting do hurt but don't generally kill, and it's easier to see them.
The most common stingers beachgoers are likely to encounter are bluebottles, and the difference between a fun day in the surf and an early trip home to nurse a sting can be as simple as looking up and down the beach, Associate Professor Brander says.
"Bluebottles can ruin your day. The sting's not going to kill you but it's going to hurt pretty bad," he said.
"Just look up the beach — if you see bluebottles washed up on the beach, chances are they're in the water.
"You've just got to look around. And when I'm in the water, I'm looking at the surface for that telltale bubble of a bluebottle."
Shark attacks are relatively rare — one person died in this year out of a total of 19 recorded unprovoked shark attacks — but when they do happen they attract a lot of attention.
You can minimise your risk of being in the same neighbourhood as a shark by avoiding swimming around river outlets, or in dirty water, especially after a storm, as these are often feeding areas for the marine predators, according to Mr Daw.
Watch out for bait balls or schools of fish, as they may have sharks following them looking for a feed.
Another one of the common warnings about sharks — beware of swimming at dusk and dawn — does hold true, Mr Daw says, but not for the reason you might think.
"It's not because the sharks are more active at that time," he said.
It has more to do with lower visibility and the fact more surfers tend to be out at that time of day, increasing the likelihood of a shark encounter at that time.
You can also consider using a shark tracker mobile app that displays shark sightings in real time — although this data is not available in all states .
But keep the risk of shark attacks in perspective, Associate Professor Brander urged.
"Sharks drive me crazy. They live in the ocean, they always have. In the grand scheme of things it's a non-issue," he said.
Shark-tracking drone technology means we know more about the position of sharks in the ocean, but they are no more numerous or dangerous than they've ever been.
Associate Professor Brander says people need to worry less about sharks and more about the water itself, particularly "basic things like rips and breaking waves".
The safest place to swim is between the red and yellow flags on patrolled beaches. These are places trained lifeguards have identified as being relatively safe and where they are watching for swimmers who may need help.
Lifeguards use other flags to give information about the conditions on the beach:
Look out for other signage, including warning signs for hazards such as hidden rocks, regulatory signs showing what's not allowed on that beach, and safety signs pointing to provisions such as emergency beacons or first aid supplies.
You can also use Surf Life Saving Australia's Beachsafe website and app for live information about beaches in your area.
Get all the latest science stories from across the ABC.
We acknowledge Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples as the First Australians and Traditional Custodians of the lands where we live, learn, and work.
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AEST = Australian Eastern Standard Time which is 10 hours ahead of GMT (Greenwich Mean Time)

The big-wave surfer tackles some of the most fearsome swells on the planet. On the surface, it looks like he’s just having fun.
“Few athletes at a high level have much appetite for innovation,” a coach of Lenny’s said. “But Kai has absolutely no pride or ego when it comes to learning something new.” Photograph by Brendan George Ko for The New Yorker
“I can’t tell—are you yoga-breathing or are you seething?”
At Nazaré, Portugal, two swells combine, and on big days they create some of the tallest waves ever surfed. Photograph by Octavio Passos / Getty
“I didn’t discover fire, but I was the first to encircle it with stones.”
Lenny competes in a dizzying range of water sports, from windsurfing to long-distance paddling. “I can never get bored,” he says. Photograph by Brendan George Ko for The New Yorker
Published in the print edition of the May 30, 2022 , issue, with the headline “Big Breaks.”
William Finnegan has been a staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987. His book “ Barbarian Days ” won the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for biography.
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