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Sochi is the Florida of Russia, but cheaper. It is famous for its subtropical vegetation, hotels and sanatoria. People from all over the Soviet Union associate the coastal city with beach holidays and first loves. The smell of sunscreen, sweat, alcohol and roasting meat pervades the air. Nothing happens here in the winter. But that's about to change. The Winter Games are coming to town. To the bombastic first bars of Tchaikovsky's Piano Concerto No. The location is Guatemala City, the occasion is the annual meeting of the International Olympic Committee. I went skiing there six or seven weeks ago and I know, real snow is guaranteed. Salzburg is eliminated in the first round of voting, putting Pyeongchang in first place. Sochi wins in the second round. Putin's diplomacy has worked. Spontaneous celebrations erupt and fireworks are set off in cities across Russia, state media reports. Video element is not supported in your browser. Putin Guatemala In this small piece of subtropical Russia where no snow falls in the winter, the Winter Olympics will be held. The railway goes right past the pebble beach of Kurortny Gorodok. Adler, Sochi Region, Sochi is a remarkable choice. The train journey from Moscow to Sochi takes 37 hours. Thirty-seven unbroken hours of birch forests, wheat fields, farms, factories, abandoned land and here and there a village or town. Drifts of snow lie everywhere. The local people trudge through them, blowing clouds of steam, dressed in black trousers, jumpers, coats with fur collars and warm hats. Suddenly there are palm trees, a calm, rippling sea plays with the pebble beach and sanatoria rise above the railway track that runs right next to the coast. And here, in this small piece of subtropical Russia where no snow falls in the winter, the Winter Olympics will be held. Sochi has always been a plaything in Moscow's hands. The crossing was sometimes a self-organised escape, but just as often it was facilitated by the Russian army, in preparation for Russian colonisation of parts of the Caucasus. This 'Circassian Genocide' is commemorated each year on 21 May in Turkey and across the Caucasian diaspora. The descendants of Caucasian refugees are still guards of honour in the armies of Turkey, Israel, Jordan and Syria. The board of the Abkhaz society. Kayseri, Turkey, Hand painted wooden bullets are part of the traditional Abkhaz costumes. In the remotest corners of Turkey you can find Caucasian associations where members valiantly attempt to uphold traditions from the motherland. At the time some parts of the Black Sea coast was impassable, where the steep, densely wooded foothills of the Caucasus plunged into the sea. Other parts, like those around Sochi, consisted mainly of coastal marshes where malaria was rife. Forts were built along the coast, which fell alternately into the hands of the Ottomans and Russians. After , however, the Russians began developing their newly acquired colony in earnest. The mineral baths in the Caucasus, such as those in Matsesta, were built and civilised. Riviera Park, now a famous amusement park, was the first hotel-cum-sanatorium in what would become Sochi. Sanatoria are part of a grand Russian tradition. Inspired by German spas like those at Baden-Baden, where famous Russian writers including Turgenev, Tolstoy, and Chekhov conversed with the European elite, tsarist Russia began erecting its own retreats on the shores of the Black Sea, around Sochi, in the Crimea and south towards Georgia. When the October Revolution caught Russia by surprise, Sochi still had relatively little to recommend it. The city had just outgrown its status as the last stronghold against the Caucasians and Turks. The marshes were barely dry before Lenin, in the early years of his regime, issued a decree stating that the entire coastline around Sochi, including the healing sulphur springs of Matsesta, should be opened to the Russian proletariat. He called them palaces for the proletariat, and a handful of them can still be found in Sochi today. All the ministries, army units, unions and factories erected holiday accommodations and remedial resorts for their employees. Small, young Sochi grew into a grand dame. Its palm trees, flowers and tepid waters were immortalised in hundreds of songs. A trip to Sochi was the best thing that could happen to a Soviet at the time. A trip to Sochi as a reward for hard work or to recuperate from an injury or illness was the best thing that could happen to a Soviet at the time. Sanatoria were built in all shapes and sizes: from the hyper-modern Red Army Sanatorium to neo-classical confections such as Metallurg for metalworkers , Ordzhonikidze for miners and Rossiya for the party elite. Tweede Wereldoorlogveteraan Viktor Boerjanov werd na de oorlog actief voor de afdeling transport bij de gemeente Sotsji. Nu is hij gepensioneerd, en woont in een flat vol veteranen of anderszins geprivilegieerden. Vol smaak herinnert hij zich hoe hij de bekendheden door Sotsji reed en aan hun speciale wensen moest voldoen. Niemand heb ik zoveel cognac zien drinken als Joeri Gagarin. We konden het niet aanslepen! Ze wilde naar een zo rustig mogelijk strandje om topless te kunnen zwemmen. Ik moest mijn vrouw wel meenemen. Die wist zeker dat haar tieten nep waren. He is now retired and lives in a block of flats with other veterans and otherwise privileged retirees. He remembers with relish how he drove celebrities around Sochi and had to comply with their special requests. We couldn't supply enough! She wanted to go to a quiet beach to swim topless. I had to bring my wife along. Sochi also became a refuge for Soviet leaders, acclaimed cosmonauts, actors and other members of the Soviet jet set. Jozef Stalin is known to have regularly spent months at a time here, with his daughter at his side and party faithful like security chief Lavrentiy Beria nearby. This was where Stalin made decisions about life and death during the Great Terror and the famines in Ukraine. His dacha — country house — in Sochi can still be admired, painted a subdued camouflage green so as to be invisible from the air. In the small museum, a waxwork Stalin sits at his desk, looking out sympathetically from behind a bushy moustache. The bedrooms and meeting rooms can still be hired as a hotel and conference centre. The collapse of the Soviet Union also heralded the decline of the sanatoria. Under capitalism, the palaces for the proletariat were no longer profitable. Today, valiant attempts are being made to preserve the sanatoria in their original state. They remain fully booked year round. Workers arrive in the summer; retired and infirm employees fill up the rest of the seasons. It is a hopeless cause, however. The often poorly constructed buildings are too large to be maintained with the paltry income generated by the guests. Most Russians with a little more money to spend stay in private hotels or fly to Turkey, Egypt and beyond. But who knows? The International Olympic Committee was lured to Sochi for these facilities and this spa history, and the Olympic bidbook , which contains the promises made by the candidate city, lists a number of sanatoria as accommodation for guests and athletes — following extensive refurbishment. Share New apartment building next to Metallurg. Sochi, Russia, in the kitchen of Sanatorium Metallurg, Sochi, Dima gets treatment for his burns. Matsesta, Sochi region, Sanantorium Metallurg's curing equipment. Mikhail, from Murmansk. Built to accommodate metalworkers, it is located next to the enormous Red Army sanatorium and Ordzhonikidze, the sanatorium for miners. Postcard of Sochi, Russia, s. Party in the ballroom, Sanatorium Metallurg. The train journey from places like Murmansk and distant Siberia takes several days. In the early spring, summer and autumn hundreds of thousands of Russians flock to Sochi to spend time in a sanatorium. The majority of visits are organised through municipalities, factories, employers or unions but individual bookings are on the rise. But the first glimpse of the Black Sea, and with any luck a leaping dolphin, the small pebble beaches lined with large white hotels, palm trees and tea plantations make it all worthwhile. Overheated and weighed down with luggage, they crowd the tiny train stations. The majority alight in Sochi, at a beautiful, light-filled station built in Stalin's Empire style. They are met by buses and marshrutkas, small private buses, that take them to their final destination. Of these, Sanatorium Metallurg is one of the finest. In we decide to try our hand at embedded journalism and sign up for a two-week stay at Metallurg. From the road, stately steps lead up the palace in the distance. Throughout the park is a network of paths with coloured arrows, each serving a different purpose. There is a conditioning path, a digestive disease path, a cardiovascular path. Hidden in the grounds is a swimming pool, elaborately decorated with socio-realist scenes, which is filled every day with several thousand litres of filtered seawater. In the sanatorium itself, we embark on a quest for the correct papers. We walk from office to office and several hours later have accumulated a stack of coupons, booklets, brochures and tour folders. Rob's treatment diary for Sanatorium Metallurg. Sochi, Notes in treatment diary. The all-inclusive holiday could have been invented in Sochi. The vouchers, putyovkas, handed out by companies, unions and government bodies offer employees a package that includes meals, film screenings, treatments and accommodation. According to the nursing staff, a treatment in Sochi is only beneficial after at least two weeks rest, an unheard of luxury. The pace of life in the sanatorium is leisurely. The guests, possibly patients, amble from doctor's office to herb tea cafe, from sulphur bath to treatment room. We feign back and heart problems and answer 'yes' to all the options that are offered to us. We want massages, bubble baths, electrically charged clay treatments, herbal tea and yes, we definitely want to attend the 'honey and herbs from the Caucasus' information evening. Followed by a disco upstairs. Everything seems to be geared towards health and fitness, the walks in the park and morning exercises included. But like most hospitals, the three daily buffet meals somewhat hamper progress. From the kitchen issue bowls of rice pudding, greasy porridge, potatoes in all shapes and sizes, pasta, meatballs and fish submerged in fat. The salad bar looks healthy, but the Russian penchant for smetana, a sort of sour cream, should not be underestimated. Excessive amounts of the cream are mixed into the salad until a smetana-salad ball is all that remains. Staff come and go with bowls of the stuff. Dessert is cakes and biscuits filled with sweet, sticky jam. Viktor Alexeevich on the private beach of sanatorium Metallurg. Sotsji, On the small private beach, at the bottom of a steep staircase where our putyovkas are checked, we meet Viktor Alexeyevich. A retired shipbuilder from Murmansk, he has happily made use of the gratis opportunity to relax in Sochi for years. Every day we are massaged, drink mineral water and revolting tea and bathe for 20 minutes in a radon bath. In the evening the sanatorium organises a disco and karaoke. Then all hell breaks loose, as the elderly guests throw themselves around the dance floor as if possessed. It is an entertaining spectacle. The atmosphere has to remain the same, but the quality has to be significantly improved. The owner, the Association of Unions, has appointed him to overhaul the institution. We'll then no longer be a sanatorium but a five-star hotel. Metallurg is a miniature Versailles, where one can descend through extensive gardens, down endless steps past fountains and ponds to the private beach. The canteen is a stately ballroom. It is still a palace for the proletariat, as it was once intended, but not for much longer if Siray has his way. Now that new managers are trying to save the buildings and parks and to tap additional sources of tourism, the old proletariat may well miss out. Without wanting to damage the old image, incidentally. For that the Sochi brand is still rock solid. Guests dancing in summer cafe Proletarsky, at the boulevard. Tourist Sochi Respectable families and drunks carrying large bottles of beer walk side by side. In the coastal areas, the smell of sunscreen, sweat, alcohol and roasting meat pervades the air. On the beaches, perspiring men with baskets of blackberries, popcorn and corn advertise their wares. Respectable families and drunks carrying large bottles of beer walk side by side. In the streets and alleys behind the beaches, clouds of smoke from grilling shashlik drift upward. On the promenades, voluptuous girls lure visitors to the attractions: throwing darts at balloons, shooting guns, having the skin on your feet nibbled off by special fish, parasailing, banana boating, having your photo taken with a wild African — the options are almost endless. It is inescapable. If there is no singer performing his tricks, the music pounds from huge speakers, and if there are no speakers, the music blares from several televisions. The same songs are played everywhere. You could fill notebooks with the number of times Biz Tebya Without You is played. Chansons and Sochi belong together like sausage and mash. Those looking for a relaxing holiday would do well to come in the winter, because in the summer Sochi is the capital of the Russian chanson. Chansons are Russian ballads, but the comparison with French chansons is only partial. The songs have their origins in the age-old Russian tradition of labour camps and prisons. They are tragic songs, about lost loves, life on the taiga and the longing for home. These days they are usually accompanied by a heavy disco beat and occasionally even a dash of techno. The modern Russian chanson is also called popsa, giving disco, house and pop music influences their own place in the genre. The chansons of past and present are often remixed into house music numbers which young and old can dance and sing along to. Seniors refuse to be banned from the dance floor. Young and old, because seniors refuse to be banned from the dance floor. With skirts hitched up and breasts strapped down, davay, the women are off. Small children are hoisted onto shoulders or wrap their arms around a partner their own size. After each song the dancers shuffle back to their tables, but often turn around again midway when they hear the beat of the next number. Share Greater Sochi sprawls for some kilometers along the shoreline, attracting predominantly Russian holidaymakers, who come for the sun, sea, sand, and nightlife. Restaurants are plentiful and competition is fierce. Most provide entertainment. The singers come from all walks of life, and are of all ages. Some perform in one place all year round, others move from restaurant to restaurant during the summer season. Greater Sochi sprawls for some kilometers along the shoreline, attracting predominantly Russian holidaymakers, who come for the sun, sea, sand, and nightlife. Stolovaya are cheap cantines, where you can buy your lunch or dinner for floor prices. Dagomys, Sochi, The coastline is composed of long stretches of pebble beach, concrete and the occasional tuft of grass. The promenades in the various resorts are largely identical: packed with the same wooden souvenir stands and a long row of restaurants, almost all serving the same food and playing the same kind of music. There must be thousands of them; the singers who grace the dinner and drink joints every evening. The singers are all ages. The older and more serious they are, the greater the chance that they were classically trained, at the Conservatory in Rostov or Krasnodar, sometimes even in Moscow or St Petersburg. For 50 euros a night they are happy to display their vocal talent. Some do it all year round, others move from restaurant to restaurant throughout the summer. Some work solo, others form duos. Some accompany themselves on a synthesizer, others play real instruments. And while some put their heart and soul into the songs, others seem miles away. Every self-respecting restaurant has a singer. These stand back to back with the booth of the next restaurant. It does little good. In restaurant Romashka it is a cacophony of different songs. Many guests seem to appreciate this and choose the exact spot where the sound converges. Two songs for the price of one. And why not? Exhausted guests sit around the tables. After a long, scorching day on the beach, in the amusement parks, gardens and shops, most of them appear to enjoy losing themselves in the dramatic lyrics of chansons and popsa. Satisfied heads bob to and fro. Gebouwd in , hotel Zhemchuzhina Parel is een gigantisch hotel, een wereld in zichzelf. Het hotel heeft kamer, 8 restaurants, 2 nachtclubs, winkels en een gigantisch zoutwaterzwembad. It is its own world. In addition to rooms, the complex encompasses 8 restaurants, 14 bars, 2 nightclubs, shops, a swimming pool, a theater, and a billiards room. You can spend all day swimming laps in the enormous saltwater pool, lying on the beach, dining in the numerous restaurants on the promenade, or lounging on an artificial peninsula in the center of the complex. In addition to rooms, the complex encompasses 8 restaurants, 14 bars, 2 nightclubs, shops, a swimming pool, a theatre and a billiards room. The waiters in the American Diner can still remember how foreigners were catered to in the s, when they were made to feel at home with hamburgers and the option to pay in dollars. Each level in Hotel Zhemchuzhina has its own floor lady, who oversees the correct use of the rooms, monitors which guests come and go and takes laundry home to supplement her income. Natalya was our favourite, not only because of her eye-catching appearance but also because she had turned her floor into a second living room, with warm words on arrival and motherly advice on departure. Zhemchuzhina has become increasingly expensive. Floor after floor has been refurbished. Profitable oddities have gradually disappeared; rooms with breakfast included used to cost one-and-a-half times the amount of a similar room with breakfast that you paid for separately each day. Yulia and Vasha. Adler, Sochi regio, A young man named Vasya is sitting on a concrete seawall dotted with pebbles and rusty piers that run into the water. A cameraman from Moscow, he has just completed an assignment in Abkhazia Abkhazia , farther to the south. He is now enjoying a short holiday in Adler, on the Russian side of the border. His older girlfriend, Yulia, has come with him. Her nipples are covered with two silver stars; topless sunbathing in Russia is not permitted. The sound almost drowns out the popsa Russian pop and house music coming from various telephones and ghetto blasters. There are more Muslims. Our conversation is cut short by a passing train. The woman next to us introduces herself as Ekaterina. The climate is subtropical but you can hike in the cool mountains whenever you want. Yelena is from Novy Urengoy. She has spent days on end lying motionless on the beach. She occasionally rotates her arms in order to distribute as much sun over her body as evenly as possible. In my village our summer lasts three months; there's snow and ice until late May. And when summer finally arrives, so do the mosquitoes. We spend three weeks slapping ourselves and itching. These are the people who describe the tourists as Bzdykhs, a stinging term unknown outside Sochi. But anyone who has been to a beach resort knows what it means: the overweight beer and spirit drinkers, the bare bodies in sandals, the noisy eaters with their drunken bluster and tacky music. The locals have little choice. Well-heeled Russians take refuge in the fancier hotels or more often opt to holiday in Italy, France, Turkey, Spain, Thailand and Vietnam. The Olympic Games may give Sochi the quality injection that would keep the Bzdykhs away. But it is more likely that as a result the city will become more expensive, chaotic and crowded, making it difficult even for the Bzdykhs to listen to their favourite chansons or popsa hits here. The pebble beach of Adler, Sochi region, And the Olympics? They are of interest only to a few. Residents hope that the Games will bring a few more financial opportunities, but mainly want to stay a holiday destination, the summer capital of Russia — where Putin can come to swim leisurely lengths in the pool. Sochi is already doing quite well as it is. Adler, Sochi region, It is and on a swathe of empty coastal marshland on the coast Coastal Cluster Sochi region , near the border with small neighbouring Abkhazia, blue fences are being erected. High in the mountains, construction is just as compact. Skating under palm trees, overlooking leaping dolphins. Under an authoritarian regime awash with oil and gas money, anything is possible. But gradually, voices of dissent that hope to exert influence on the Games are beginning to make themselves heard. Chapter V deals with the transformation of Sochi into a winter capital. Sochi Singers is also for sale in our webshop. Sochi Singers Sanatorium. A forgotten genocide Sochi has always been a plaything in Moscow's hands. Palaces for the proletariat When the October Revolution caught Russia by surprise, Sochi still had relatively little to recommend it. New apartment building next to Metallurg. Meatballs with cream three times a day The train journey from places like Murmansk and distant Siberia takes several days. Bandits from Moscow Viktor Alexeevich on the private beach of sanatorium Metallurg. Sanatorium Now that new managers are trying to save the buildings and parks and to tap additional sources of tourism, the old proletariat may well miss out. The Florida of Russia A young man named Vasya is sitting on a concrete seawall dotted with pebbles and rusty piers that run into the water. Empty marshland And the Olympics? Adler, Sochi region, It is and on a swathe of empty coastal marshland on the coast Coastal Cluster Sochi region , near the border with small neighbouring Abkhazia, blue fences are being erected.