Skyros Island buying powder

Skyros Island buying powder

Skyros Island buying powder

Skyros Island buying powder

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Skyros Island buying powder

The leg is from Votsi , Alonnisos to Linaria , Skyros. The logs are illustrated with maps and photographs, and also include some historical and geographical descriptions of the places visited as well as several links to other related web sites. I had decided that, since there was no wind and it was extremely calm, not to go directly to Skyros , but to stop first in Skantzoura , for a few hours to swim and have lunch. The idea was that by delaying I might get some wind in the afternoon and be able to sail. While preparing for departure, I ended up having a very early morning swim in Votsi. I raised the second anchor from the zodiac and got it inside the zodiac. I then untied the line from the chain, so that I could coil it for storage. Then I lifted the heavy anchor to put it onboard Thetis. Now I am not so sure exactly how, but I lost my grip on the anchor and it dropped into the water pulling all the 15 m of chain with it. So, I had to quickly put on the mask and flippers and after grabbing the end of a long rope, dive to retrieve the chain and the anchor. The water was cold! It was very careless of me to untie the line from the chain before securing the anchor. We left Votsi , without another mishap, at We motored the 12 M to Skantzoura over the flat sea. The barometer had risen to mB , and the Navtex forecast called for NW The only structure on it, that I know of, is an old hermitage, now abandoned, which I had visited in I had a nice swim and a peaceful lunch under the tent. As I was getting ready to leave, the MOm patrol boat entered the cove, I waved and they waved back but they did not approach. I guess it was not my new friend Stamatis. We left Skantzoura at Initially there was no wind and we were motoring, but later the wind came at knots from the ESE , still not too useful. Later it changed direction to ENE and picked up some speed reaching knots which allowed us to at least motor-sail. The distance from Skantzoura was There was no room in the small harbor which already had at least two yachts tied to the ferryboat quay. This cove is a little bit tricky because there are some submarine power cables on its S side that must be avoided. I had a little trouble at first with the anchor catching weeds instead of digging into the sand, but on my second attempt it held. We were anchored at 4. I tested the holding by revving the engine in reverse and later inspected it by snorkeling. The tallest peak is Mt. Kokhilas m. Skyros has a rather long history. In Greek Mythology its king, Lycomedes , offered hospitality to Theseus when he was an old man, but he became very jealous of his fame and murdered him. In more historical times, the island was conquered by the Athenians in BC. Skyros then became part of the Byzantine Empire until the 15th century when it was taken over by the Venetians. They held it until when the Ottoman Turks took it and held it until the end of the war of independence in when it became part of Greece. Today Skyros is renowned for its folk art and its Carnival. The largest town is Chora , or Skyros , which is built around the Venetian castle. It is about 10 km from the Linaria harbor. Native to Skyros is a species of small pony called Pikermic. I went ashore with the zodiac and made a few phone calls because the Autolink did not work here. The cove is very pleasant except for a distant hum from the nearby power plant. I had supper aboard. The Navtex predicted light SW winds of force After I went to bed, the wind changed direction to SW but it was not strong. Thetis reoriented herself and stabilized at 4. Despite the light wind, I was somewhat worried because of the considerable swell. I even contemplated setting a second anchor but finally decided against it since the boat was not drifting to shallower water anymore. Nevertheless the night was not a very peaceful one, and I got up several times to check the depth and the anchor. I woke up early, still uneasy about the change of wind direction. This uneasiness was further aided by Nikos who yesterday on the phone had told me that he had heard a long range forecast which predicted very bad weather for the weekend. So, after coffee I rode to the harbor in the zodiac to see if there was any room. I already had seen a large catamaran and another sail boat leaving the harbor. Still, there was no room. I asked a chartered sail boat, with German crew, which was docked sideways at the best spot, if they were planning to leave the harbor. Yes, they were, and within an hour. I then asked them if they could be kind enough to hail me on channel 72 on the VHF just before leaving. They kindly promised to do so. Back to Thetis I went and started preparing her for docking: fenders on the side, docking lines etc. In less than an hour, the Germans hailed me and informed me that they were about to leave. I was ready. I raised the anchor and motored to the harbor, just as they were leaving. No chance for another boat to take the coveted spot. A nice young crewman from the Coast Guard patrol boat helped me with the lines. By Thetis was totally secure with extra spring lines. The distance from Votsi to Linaria was My first objective in Skyros was to visit the well known Faltaitz Museum of Folkloric art. In my previous visits to the island, I was somehow unable to see this museum, so now it was my chance. I asked about renting a scooter but all the scooter rentals were in Chora. The next bus was not due for several hours and no one was exactly certain to its schedule. There were no taxis either. After some inquiries I got the telephone number of the taxi stand in Chora and called for a taxi. My plan was to visit the museum first, then climb to the Venetian castle, and then look for a place that rents scooters. The Faltaitz Museum is small but very eclectic. It was founded by Manos Faltaitz who is still overseeing its function. He is Greek, and a native of Skyros. The original family name was Faltsis, but it was corrupted to Faltaitz in Odessa where his father did business. The exhibit consists of Skyrian furniture, chests, embroidery, traditional costumes, carnival costumes with their large bells and masks, books, etc. After seeing the exhibits I was loitering in the nice museum store which sells some antiques and handcrafted items made by contemporary craftsmen. I was particularly admiring a restored chest. The young lady in attendance did not know its price but promised to find out and let me know by tomorrow. While talking to the young lady, I heard a familiar sounding voice. I had not seen Vicki since when she was visiting in Washington D. Vicki, who has a degree in Archaeology, is an hagiographer painter of Byzantine icons of some note, but to supplement her income she also works as a freelance tourist guide. She was in Skyros for a couple of days scouting in advance of her leading a large tour next week. The view was magnificent. Since we were hungry and they had a car, we drove to the Magazia beach, N of the town, where we had lunch while watching the few people sunbathing and swimming in the surf. In the meantime, the wind had arrived and it was fitfully blowing from the SE. They drove me back to Thetis and they retired to their hotel, just across the quay, for the afternoon rest. Vicki scrutinized the boat and voiced her concern about me sailing all by myself, but unlike the majority of Greeks she seemed to understand the deep satisfactions of solitude. Following the ouzo and conversation, we drove back to Chora. First we located a store that rented motor scooters. It was run by a young German lady who spoke excellent Greek. After securing a motorbike, we walked along the streets and in and out of the stores, which unlike the ones on many other islands, were interesting and inviting. Handicrafts, particularly wood carving, embroidery, and ceramics have a long tradition here. I was captivated by a terra-cotta mermaid, and by a rather pricey lapis lazuli necklace. It was a very cold ride down to the harbor on the motorbike. On board, I found the Navtex had received a new forecast: thunderstorms to be followed tomorrow night by strong N winds. We shall see. During the night the rain came with a vengeance. The leak of the Plexiglass window was very much with us. Nothing serious, but it was very annoying to have to string a number of sponges along the couch to catch the water before it seeped in the storage areas. In the very early morning hours I was woken by the thunderstorm, which was going at full force. Prodigious amounts of water with thunders everywhere. The whole sky was ablaze. The zodiac, which was afloat besides Thetis, was totally filled with water. There must have fallen at least 30 cm overnight the mean yearly rain fall for Athens is 40 cm! Around Vicki appeared, all covered in heavy rain gear, to say goodbye. By , when her ferryboat left, the rainfall had abated somewhat. The harbor water which yesterday was crystal clear, had been transformed to a deep chocolate color. It had not rained in Skyros since April. All the accumulated dust was washed into the harbor within a few hours. I walked to the store across the harbor to buy some fresh bread. He was trying to ascertain when the next bus for Chora was due. I help him by translating, but the best we could gather was that the bus would not come for at least 3 hours. The rain started coming hard again. Although I was wearing storm gear, it was hard to walk the 50 m back to Thetis in this deluge. Andrew invited me aboard Ismira for a cup of tea and to meet his friends and mates from Germany, Monica and Matias. They had strung a plastic tarpaulin over the cockpit and, despite the downpour, we could sit and talk outside. When the rain became less violent I walked back to my boat. Later in the morning the rain finally stopped and I drove the motorbike up to Chora. I went to the Faltaitz Museum to find out the price of the old chest that I was admiring yesterday. Well, it turns out it belongs to Mr. Faltaitz himself and it is not for sale. I then visited the near-by Archaeological Museum. It is small but it has an interesting collection of Prehistoric, Mycenean and Geometric finds from the Magazia excavation, but they are not exhibited as nicely as the exhibits in the Limnos museum. I walked some more around the town with its lovely old houses, all kept up, freshly white washed, and clean. I then, following the advice of the German lady at the bike rental, rode the bike to a back road, and then walked through the pine woods to the tiny monastery of Agios Demetrios. The woods, freshly washed, were sparkling and the smell of the soil and pines was intoxicating. Alas, the church was locked because, as I later learned, it had been burgled recently. I then attempted to drive to Agios Fotios , on the NW of the island, but I lost my way and eventually gave up. The name means three mouths and is descriptive of this large bay protected by two islands that give it three openings. The ride through the mountains which were topped by heavy dark clouds and the dark sea underneath was very dramatic. Near the grave I was lucky to see 3 of the rare Pikermic ponies , native to Skyros. He was already a well known young poet when he died in , at sea, on his way to the Gallipoli battle. He was 28 years old. They buried him here, some distance from the sea, while the boat lay at anchor in the bay. It is still very moving. I could not get near the water because it is a restricted area used by the Greek navy. On my way back, a few km from the harbor I met Andrew, Monica, and Matias walking. They did go to Chora , but as the bus back was not due until late at night they decided to walk. They were exhausted, Monica in particular could hardly drag her feet. I gave her a ride on the back of the bike. At the harbor, I persuaded the man at the gas station to drive his small truck for a few meters and refueled Thetis with 32 L of fuel, without carting jerry cans. I then, anticipating a morning departure, drained the zodiac, raised it, and lashed it on the deck. After a shower, I drove the motorbike up to Chora and returned it. I then took a taxi back to Linaria since I had been invited to dinner aboard Ismira. They had prepared a nice meal with potatoes baked with onions, yogurt, and cheese. We ate it under the tarpaulin as it started raining again. Matias is an engineer and had met Andrew a few years ago at a boat show in England. Now he and Monica charter Ismira, with Andrew as a skipper, every year for a few weeks. They have all sailed all over the Mediterranean. With the wine and the conversation time slipped away fast. By the time I got back on Thetis it was almost midnight. I decided to leave early tomorrow morning. Embroidery from Skyros I went ashore with the zodiac and made a few phone calls because the Autolink did not work here. Friday September 18, Day 16 I woke up early, still uneasy about the change of wind direction. Linaria, Skyros In less than an hour, the Germans hailed me and informed me that they were about to leave. Saturday September 19, Day 17 During the night the rain came with a vengeance. View from the Museum Later in the morning the rain finally stopped and I drove the motorbike up to Chora. Another street in Chora I then, following the advice of the German lady at the bike rental, rode the bike to a back road, and then walked through the pine woods to the tiny monastery of Agios Demetrios. Woods near Agios Demetrios. Agios Demetrios. A street. View from the Castle.

Oinousses – Walking to See What I Can See

Skyros Island buying powder

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Skyros Island buying powder

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