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I've been visiting since the mids as a Lonely Planet writer for the region and have dealt with pretty much every travel challenge you can imagine. Time your trip to coincide with the best weather. Land-locked Uzbekistan has an extreme continental climate, which means cold winters and hot, dry summers. Getting a visa for Uzbekistan is easy these days. Other countries including the USA and India are required to apply for an e-visa online , but this is an easy process that only takes a couple of days. Gone are the days of complicated visa invitations and trips to obscure embassies — hurray! It takes just over two hours to travel from Tashkent to Samarkand, and the same again to reach Bukhara from Samarkand. For longer distances, Russian-style sleeper trains are an atmospheric way to travel overnight between Tashkent and the remoter cities of Nukus, Khiva or Termiz. However, seats do sell out on popular routes, especially for high-speed tourist services, so book tickets a week or more in advance. Try online via the Uzbekistan Railway e-ticket portal , use the Uzrailway phone app, or book through a local travel agency for a markup. The best ones fill up quickly in late spring and summer, so be sure to book a few weeks in advance. Contact owners directly, or see what comes up on Booking. If you'd prefer to take a taxi, be aware that overcharging by taxi drivers is not uncommon in Uzbekistan — always try to get a rough idea of the correct fare beforehand. English is not widely spoken in Uzbekistan outside of tourist hotels, so it helps to learn some words of Uzbek a Turkic language similar to old Turkish , or Russian, which remains a lingua franca amongst older people right across the former Soviet Union. Knowing numbers in Uzbek or Russian will come in particularly handy when negotiating with shared taxi drivers. Google Translate can help, but only if you have smartphone data — to minimize roaming costs, tourist SIM cards valid for a month are available from several local companies, notably Beeline and Ucell. Uzbekistan is very tourist-friendly these days, but there are a few things travelers should know about. When entering the country, you cannot bring in any codeine-based medications such as painkillers and you may need to declare how much foreign cash you are carrying. In reality, you are unlikely to be quizzed at customs if you arrive by air in Tashkent, but you might be when entering via land crossings. In the past you had to show these for every night of your trip when leaving the country; these days, the old paper system has been superseded by an online system and slips are rarely checked, but you should still keep these when given them, just in case. Be sure to carry your passport or at the very least a photocopy with you when you go sightseeing in Uzbekistan. Keep a photocopy to hand to avoid having to dig through your belongings in public. Changing money is relatively straightforward in Uzbekistan these days. Credit and debit cards especially Visa are accepted by most accommodation and upmarket souvenir stalls. ATMs in major cities accept foreign cards, but stock up on Uzbek som the local currency if you are headed into the countryside. Look like an expert in the local chaikhana teahouse by pouring the first two bowls of tea back into the pot before drinking, to help it brew. Choose from Russian-style kara black or Asian-style kok green chai. Uzbeks are big hand-shakers, so be sure to shake the hands of any men you come into contact with, especially elders known as aksakal in Central Asia. Another particularly graceful gesture used by Uzbeks and Tajiks is to place your hand on your heart when meeting someone. When meeting women, a slight bow is the norm, in place of a handshake. At the end of a meal, Uzbeks and Tajiks generally place their hands in front of their face in a cupped prayer gesture and run them lightly over their face to give thanks for the meal. Following suit will earn you respect for understanding and following Uzbek customs. Haggling over things like the price of taxis and buying produce at markets is common in Uzbekistan, but prices are not vastly overinflated, so only expect a modest discount. Aggressive haggling is not appreciated — keep things light-hearted and friendly. You may also be able to bargain for a discount on accommodation prices outside the high season. Food in Uzbekistan is quite meat-heavy, focused on the four staples of shashlik lamb kebabs , plov pilau rice , shurpa stew and laghman noodles — all sometimes featuring more fat than visitors may be used to. Uzbekistan is generally a very safe country for tourists. Despite sharing a border with Afghanistan, there is little religious extremism and crime against foreigners is rare. As in big cities anywhere, watch out for pickpockets on crowded city buses and bazaars in hubs such as Tashkent; tourist police frequent the more popular tourist sights. Uzbekistan is a Muslim country, but people are very relaxed. Short skirts, tank tops and yoga pants are best avoided, and you may want to cover your arms and legs when visiting the conservative Fergana Valley. Bring a headscarf to cover your hair when entering active mosques. The most common complaints amongst visitors are heat exhaustion in summer and the occasional dodgy tummy after eating too much oily plov or shashlik. Wash your hands, avoid the tap water and wash all fruit and salads before eating and you should be fine. A couple of bonus tips: be sure to return to the exteriors of the main architectural sights in Samarkand at night, as most are spectacularly lit up. Also, when planning your itinerary, avoid visiting Tashkent on a Monday, when most of the museums are closed. This article was first published Aug 12, and updated Aug 6, Train, plane, shared taxi or your own car? There are many ways to get around Uzbekistan. Uzbekistan can be uncomfortably hot in summer Time your trip to coincide with the best weather. Destination Practicalities. Budget Travel. Historic Site. Sustainable Travel. Read more articles.

Uzbek slammed with 10-year prison term

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This is the second time that I am writing this post. Internet connections tend to be slow and unstable here Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. I would recommend downloading WhatsApp before leave. You will likely end up buying a sim card, possibly two and having WhatsApp makes calling home easier. First, most of what I had read about Uzbekistan in preparing for this trip was wrong to one degree to another. When I entered the country, I was not asked to provide a list of medications and all customs workers were very nice and welcomed me to their country. I found the Uzbek people to be unfailingly friendly. Several Uzbeks have pictures of me as souvenirs. The only time you will find Uzbeks to be anything other than friendly is when standing in line. By the time I bought my fourth train ticket, I learned to play the game Uzbek-style. Stay on them. You need to be close enough to dry hump their leg. Second, guard your flanks. Uzbeks will come at you from either side. A favorite trick is to use the ledge at the counter to get their money and documents ready and then slide in. And finally, be ready as whenever the person at the window is done, you have to move. Get right in as close as you can and start talking. Act like you belong there — any display of weakness and you can take a step back. The official language is Uzbek but Russian is also prevalent. Sometimes figuring out the language that something is written in is half the battle. The further you get from Tashkent, the less Russian is spoken. It seems like more and more English is entering the lexicon. Before I left, I spent six months and more than hours with the Pimsleur Russian courses. I was far from fluent and it definitely helped, but I think it is possible to travel in Uzbekistan speaking only English. Of course, the more you know of a local language, the more enriching your experience will be. In all, I visited five Uzbek cities Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva and Nukus , and took four trains and two cars plus some taxis and subways. I stayed in family-run guesthouses in Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. In Nukus, I stayed in a hotel. All of these places provided breakfast served at about 8a. Uzbekistan has invested in mass transit. They have spent less on roads. Thus, the roads are bumpy, full of holes and generally not a great way of getting around. Take the train where possible. High speed rail is available on some routes. It is everything it was supposed to be — fast, clean, spacious. A step down from that was the train I took from Bukhara to Khiva. The cars were similar to the Afrosiyob, but the travel was slower. Overall, faster than driving and not a bad way to go. I took Kazakh rail from Nukus to Beyneu, Kazakhstan. Kazakhstan has not invested in rail — and it shows. I had read about this train and dreaded it. It was a 14 hour journey across a mostly desert landscape. The car was not well maintained. It was dirty, noisy, chaotic and overcrowded. The cars were old Soviet sleeper cars with top and bottom bunks. The bunks are not in private compartments, but kind of arranged into pods where six bunks are in one pod and the aisle goes through. The cars are typically oversold, so only the top bunks can be used for sleeping. The bottom bunks become seating. We had eight or nine people in our pod. When I got on the train, and I was one of the first ones on the train, I noticed that a significant number of melons had already been loaded on the train and stored under seats and in luggage storage compartments. Melon is popular here and I guess they grow it in Uzbekistan and have a deal to transport melons to Kazakhstan by passenger rail. I also noticed that all of the concessions on the train were handled by normal people, unlike Uzbek rail where only uniformed people were selling things on the train. This little bit of capitalism greatly increased the offerings. Therefore, I was a novelty. All of the people in my pod, had made this trip many times in the past, their passports were full of stamps. When the Soviets divided these nomadic lands into countries,the lines often had little regard for the people living their. As a result, family members were cut off from one another and this trip was necessitated. Nowhere else have I seen border guard as meticulous at placing a stamp. The stamps are arranged eight to page to maximize space. My passport got passed around among the other passengers who had never seen an American Passport. My iPhone was also passed around. It seems like Samsung and older Nokias have a lock on the market — iPhones were not even sold in the Beeline store. As the sun came up after our 4a departure, things got a bit more lively. I had packed bread , candy and water for the trip and figured that would get me by. After a while one of the men in my pod offered me some chai from the vodka bottle and poured me a Donald Duck coffee mug full. He also gave me two samsas and two extremely hard boiled eggs. By mid-morning people were setting around talking like old friends. I was offered Gat multiple spellings, a legal substance chewed by men throughout the region. After a while a cup of the ubiquitous yogurt drink was placed before me. I had previously had problems with GT when trying to translate a dinner menu. The place I was eating had various types of kebabs. I was fine with any except the liver. I was pretty sure both it was wrong in both cases. Anyway, I typed my question and handed my phone to Gulchera, a 40 year old, Uzbek, divorced mother of 2, who was quite competent in all things. She filled out the customs forms for everyone in our pod. I saw no way forward, so I let it drop. She takes a lot of selfies and she was sitting right beside me. Soon she took my phone and typed her name and number into. The old man sitting across from us started pantoming that I could put a ring on her finger and take her to America. As flattering as it is to be an overweight 52 year old and be hit on by the 40 year old Gulchera, I had about 4 hours left and no place to go. I went to the bathroom — on this train that is not some place you want to spend much time. If it were clean it would have been disgusting. It was not clean. So, while I am standing in the thankfully long line, another woman gets in line behind. An Uzbek with died blond hair in a tight Paris T shirt. She strikes up a conversation in what little common tongue we have. She tells me her name and asked mine. Border crossings took over an hour on both the Uzbek and Kazakh sides and we eventually rolled into Beyneu. I took a private car from Khiva to Nukus. The roads are rough, two lane and not particularly well maintained. The Hotel Alibek in Khiva is run by the son in the family who is probably in his mid 30s? His parents and wife and children also live and work on the property. The son arranged for my car. On the day I was supposed to leave, the son was gone. I was supposed to leave at noon, but at 10a was packed and ready and sitting outside reading. His mother asked if I was ready to go, I said I was. She summoned her husband to drive me to Nukus in the family car. Tashkent : The only reason to visit Tashkent is that you must visit Tashkent. If you fly in to Uzbekistan, you will fly into Tashkent. If you take rail, you will most likely pass through Tashkent. It is big 2. I stayed in an AirBnB that was essentially a hostel. From the outside, the building was an old Soviet-era brutalist apartment building with all the appeal of hammered dogshit. It frankly looked like The Wire may have been filmed there. Inside, it was lovely and modern. Samarkand: The crown jewel of Uzbekistan and its second largest city. There are a number of other interesting and beautiful sites to see, but these were the ones that I found particularly interesting. In my opinion, all were walkable, though the observatory was about three miles away. Shah-i-Zinda and the Afrosiyob archaeological site are on the way, so you can break the walk up. I stayed at the Furkat Guesthouse, a funky family-run place that had been around since the beginning of time. They serve a wonderful breakfast on their rooftop terrace. It is about two blocks from the Registan. Samarkand is changing. There are commercial strips on two sides of the Registan and as you move away from the old town, new construction is going up at a rapid pace. Bukhara: There appears to be something akin to a historic preservation commission in Bukhara. Many of the buildings had gold plaques identifying them as having protected status. As such, Bukhara was the best preserved of the three historic cities I visited. There are many other things to see in Bukhara and nearly all are close together, so if you stay near the historic part of town, you could knock out a bunch. For example, the Ark, the mosque, and the judicial museum home of the bug pit are essentially next to each other. The Lyab Hauz is a 16th Century oasis and is the center of activity in the town. Chor Minor requires that you find it. It is small and tucked down an alleyway. And that is probably the best thing to do in Bukhara — wander the alleyways. People will approach you and start a conversation and you should take the time to exhaust your common vocabulary. It is also worth the time to walk out past the bazaar to what remains of the city walls. Like Samarkand, quite a bit of development is going on outside the old city. I am not sure where any of that will lead, but I think it is indicative that Uzbekistan is beginning to realize the treasures and the potential revenue stream of exploiting them. Khiva: Khiva is the smallest of the three and also well preserved. The pass also allows you to climb the minaret, which is worthwhile if you are in shape. There are a number of museums in Khiva and the pass allows you access to all of them. I will say that most of the museums provide little context and are mostly just a collection of items. That said it is remarkable to see. I stayed at the Hotel Alibek which is across the street from the entrance. Nukus: It has an art museum that is impressive. After that, the second and third attractions that pop up on Lonely Planet, TripAdvisor and others are the bazaar and walking along the river. The bazaar is large and worth seeing if you are there. Walking along the river is like…walking along the river. So, my impressions of Uzbek cuisine are that they may eat less plov than they get credit for. When I was reading about Uzbekistan prior to my trip, that was all I heard about Uzbek culinary traditions was the national dish was plov. I have had plov twice. Granted, a rice dish seems like a strange choice for a country located almost entirely in a desert. It also seems like an odd choice for what was mostly a nomadic culture. So what did I see most of? Round bread call Naan or Non. And meat on a stick kebabs of all shapes and sizes. They also eat a lot of fruit. There are a few other prepared dishes such as lagman, a noodle dish. I had a couple of variations on this, The first was kind of a beef and noodle stew, the second as almost like spaghetti and meat sauce. When ordering off the menu, lagman was always lagman followed by a second word. Ithink this means that lagman describes the thick,long, doughy noodles and the second word tells you how its prepared. Good luck. Ashlyamfu, which the internet gives credit to Kyrgyzstan for has its roots in China can also be found. I subsisted primarily on bread and kebabs. I resisted for a while as everything I had read had not mentioned these and I assumed that they were just brought in for tourist, which is possible. After a while, it was apparent that kebabs were everywhere and being enjoyed by Uzbeks and tourists alike. It seems like a natural fit for the region. The people and language are afterall Turkic. So, I think plov is probably something like roast beef in the US. The tourism industry seems to be modernizing rapidly. Bukhara has double-decker, hop-on, hop-off buses. Hot dogs and soft serve ice cream are available everywhere. These stands will have an upside down glass cylinder or vial with a tap at the bottom. When you order, they fill a glass with carbonated water and add a squirt of syrup from the cylinder. One of the stands had a diagram of a pregnant woman drinking one with various text and arrows which appeared to be health claims. I eventually broke down and tried one. It is quite good. It is kind of carmelly, kind of gingery, kind of a cross between cream soda and ginger ale. A small costs about 5 cents and well worth it. I spent a total of about 10 days in Uzbekistan. It has some things that you are simply not going to see anywhere else. Travel sites I Like and how to use them. The Trip. Eric's Blog. Tanya's Blog. News, Current Events and Politics. Transportation Uzbekistan has invested in mass transit. The Food So, my impressions of Uzbek cuisine are that they may eat less plov than they get credit for.

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