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Fashion subculture originating in Japan
This article is about the Japanese fashion style. For other uses, see Lolita (disambiguation) .
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^ Monden 2008
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^ Younker, Terasa. "Lolita: dreaming, despairing,defying" (PDF) . New York University : 97. Archived (PDF) from the original on 1 November 2020 . Retrieved 30 September 2020 .
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^ " The Outrageous Street-Style Tribes of Harajuku " . BBC. Archived from the original on 18 June 2018 . Retrieved 13 June 2018 .
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^ "What the Hell has Happened to Tokyo's Fashion Subcultures?" . Dazed . 4 December 2015. Archived from the original on 13 June 2018 . Retrieved 13 June 2018 .
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^ Jump up to: a b Hardy Bernal, Kathryn A. (2019). Lolita Latina : an examination of Gothic and Lolita Style in the Mexican environment : a thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Visual and Material Culture, College of Creative Arts, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand (Thesis). Massey University. Archived from the original on 17 May 2021 . Retrieved 18 May 2021 .
^ Gatlin 2014 , p. 79
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^ Jump up to: a b Koma, K. (2013). "Kawaii as Represented in Scientific Research: The Possibilities of Kawaii Cultural Studies" . Hemispheres, Studies on Cultures and Societies (28): 103–117. Archived from the original on 12 August 2017 . Retrieved 10 February 2018 .
^ Christopherson 2014 , p. 5
^ Coombes 2016 , p. 29
^ Valdimarsdótti 2015 , p. 29
^ Onohara 2011 , p. 35
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^ Coombes 2016 , p. 35
^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Atkinson, Leia (2015). Down the Rabbit Hole: An Exploration of Japanese Lolita Fashion (Thesis). University of Ottawa. doi : 10.20381/ruor-4249 . hdl : 10393/32560 .
^ "About Metamorphose" . Metamorphose. Archived from the original on 23 September 2004 . Retrieved 25 February 2018 .
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^ Jump up to: a b Kawamura, Yuniya (2006). "Japanese Teens as Producers of Street Fashion". Current Sociology . 54 (5): 784–801. doi : 10.1177/0011392106066816 . S2CID 144670266 .
^ Kawamura, Yuniya (2012). "Geographically and Stylistically Defined Japanese Subcultures". Fashioning Japanese Subcultures . doi : 10.2752/9781474235327/KAWAMURA0006a . ISBN 9781474235327 .
^ Gagné, Isaac (2008). "Urban Princesses: Performance and "Women's Language" in Japan's Gothic/Lolita Subculture". Journal of Linguistic Anthropology . 18 : 130–150. doi : 10.1111/j.1548-1395.2008.00006.x .
^ "Tokyo Day 7 Part 3 — Gothic Lolita, Marui One, Marui Young Shinjuku" . Archived from the original on 22 October 2016 . Retrieved 8 August 2017 .
^ "Pretty in Pink" . The Bold Italic Editors. 8 April 2010. Archived from the original on 8 August 2017 . Retrieved 9 August 2017 .
^ Onohara 2011 , p. 33
^ "Interview: Jenna Winterberg and Michelle Nguyen - Page 1, Aoki, Deb" . Manga About. Archived from the original on 30 March 2008 . Retrieved 11 February 2018 .
^ "Gothic & Lolita Bible in English" . Japanese Streets. Archived from the original on 8 August 2017 . Retrieved 8 August 2017 .
^ "Baby, the Stars Shine Bright and Tokyo Rebel to open retail locations in New York" . Arama! Japan. July 2014. Archived from the original on 8 August 2017 . Retrieved 8 August 2017 .
^ Jump up to: a b "Fashion Magazine KERA to End Print Publication" . Arama! Japan. 30 March 2017. Archived from the original on 8 August 2017 . Retrieved 8 August 2017 .
^ "What the Closure of FRUiTS Magazine Means for Japanese Street Style" . Vice . 6 February 2017. Archived from the original on 13 June 2018 . Retrieved 13 June 2018 .
^ Coombes 2016 , pp. 33, 37
^ Hardy Bernal 2011 , p. 199
^ Jump up to: a b Younker 2011 , p. 106
^ Coombes 2016 , p. 7
^ Monden, Masafumi (2014). "Being Alice in Japan: Performing a cute, 'girlish' revolt". Japan Forum . 26 (2): 265–285. doi : 10.1080/09555803.2014.900511 . S2CID 143270185 .
^ Jump up to: a b Hinton 2013 , p. 1589
^ Coombes 2016 , p. 45
^ Younker 2011 , p. 103
^ Staite 2012 , p. 51
^ Gatlin 2014 , p. 29
^ Coombes 2016 , p. 31
^ Staite 2012 , p. 53
^ Monden 2008 , p. 25
^ Hardy Bernal 2007 .
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^ Hardy Bernal 2011 , pp. 72–73
^ Coombes 2016 , p. 39
^ Valdimarsdótti 2015 , p. 22
^ "Press Conference, 26 February 2009" . Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan. Archived from the original on 12 August 2017 . Retrieved 12 August 2017 .
^ "Association formed to pitch 'Lolita fashion' to the world" . The Japan Times . 31 May 2013. Archived from the original on 11 August 2017 . Retrieved 11 August 2017 .
^ Jump up to: a b c Borggreen, G. (2013). "Cute and Cool in Contemporary Japanese Visual Arts". The Copenhagen Journal of Asian Studies . 29 (1): 39–60. doi : 10.22439/cjas.v29i1.4020 .
^ Jump up to: a b Kawamura, Yuniya (2012). "The Globalization of Japanese Subcultures and Fashion: Future Possibilities and Limitations". Fashioning Japanese Subcultures . doi : 10.2752/9781474235327/KAWAMURA0015 . ISBN 9781474235327 .
^ "The Kawaii Ambassadors (Ambassadors of Cuteness)" . Trends in Japan. Archived from the original on 11 August 2017 . Retrieved 11 August 2017 .
^ Gatlin 2014 , p. 66
^ Valdimarsdótti 2015 , p. 32
^ Mikami 2011 , p. 46
^ Jump up to: a b c d Kang, Z. Young; Cassidy, T. Diane (2015). "Lolita Fashion: A transglobal subculture" . Fashion, Style & Popular Culture . 2 (3): 371–384. doi : 10.1386/fspc.2.3.371_1 . Archived from the original on 19 August 2016 . Retrieved 11 February 2018 .
^ Mikami 2011 , p. 34
^ Mikami 2011
^ Plevíková 2017 , p. 106
^ Mikami 2011 , pp. 46–55
^ Hardy Bernal 2011 , pp. 75–118
^ Hinton 2013
^ Jump up to: a b Younker 2011 , p. 100
^ Talmadge, Eric (7 August 2008). "Tokyo's Lolita scene all about escapismn" . The Japan Times . Archived from the original on 11 August 2017 . Retrieved 11 August 2017 .
^ "Resistance and Self-Expression: Fashion's Power in Times of Difference" . www.notjustalabel.com . Archived from the original on 25 December 2019 . Retrieved 3 May 2020 .
^ "Fashion As Resistance: The Everyday Rebellion" . HuffPost . 16 February 2017. Archived from the original on 30 November 2020 . Retrieved 3 May 2020 .
^ Thomas, Samuel (2 July 2013). "Let's talk 100 percent kawaii!" . The Japan Times . Archived from the original on 6 August 2017 . Retrieved 6 August 2017 .
^ Robinson 2014
^ Hardy Bernal 2011 , p. 185
^ Hardy Bernal 2011 , p. 51
^ Park, J. Joohee (2010). "Japanese Youth Subcultures Styles of the 2000s". International Journal of Costume and Fashion . 10 (1): 1–13. doi : 10.7233/ijcf.2010.10.1.001 .
^ Staite 2012 , pp. 10–12
^ Mikami 2011 , p. 64
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^ Younker 2011 , pp. 100, 106
^ Peirson-Smith 2015
^ Jump up to: a b Rahman, Osmud; Wing-Sun, Liu; Lam, Elita; Mong-Tai, Chan (2011). " "Lolita": Imaginative Self and Elusive Consumption". Fashion Theory . 15 : 7–27. doi : 10.2752/175174111X12858453158066 . S2CID 145769507 .
^ Haijima 2013 , p. 40
^ Kawamura, Yuniya (2012). "Individual and Institutional Networks within a Subcultural System: Efforts to Validate and Valorize New Tastes in Fashion". Fashioning Japanese Subcultures . doi : 10.2752/9781474235327/KAWAMURA0012 . ISBN 9781474235327 .
^ Berry 2017 , p. 55
^ Sugar Coated - A short documentary about Lolita Fashion , archived from the original on 8 March 2021 , retrieved 3 May 2020
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^ Mikami 2011 , pp. 62–63
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^ Robinson 2014 , p. 30
^ Jump up to: a b Zank, Dinah (2010). "Kawaii vs. rorikon: The reinvention of the term Lolita in modern Japanese manga". In Berninger, M.; Ecke, J.; Haberkorn, G. (eds.). Comics as a Nexus of Cultures: Essays on the Interplay of Media, Disciplines and International Perspectives . Jefferson, NC: McFarland & Company . pp. 211–222. ISBN 978-0-7864-3987-4 .
^ Hinton 2013 , pp. 1584–1585
^ "Lolita Fashion" . The Paris Review . 25 May 2017. Archived from the original on 6 August 2017 . Retrieved 6 August 2017 .
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^ "Lolita Nylon Advertisements" . Archived from the original on 10 July 2016 . Retrieved 6 August 2017 .
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^ Tidwell, Christy (2010). Street and Youth Fashion in Japan . Vol. 6. doi : 10.2752/BEWDF/EDch6063 . ISBN 9781847888556 .
^ Carriger, Michelle Liu (2019). " "Maiden's Armor": Global Gothic Lolita Fashion Communities and Technologies of Girly Counteridentity". Theatre Survey . 60 : 122–146. doi : 10.1017/S0040557418000522 . S2CID 166076744 .
^ Coombes 2016 , p. 33
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^ Hardy Bernal, Kathryn (2016). "Performing Lolita: The Japanese Gothic and Lolita Subculture and Constructing Identity through Virtual Space" . Journal of Asia-Pacific Pop Culture . 1 (1): 79–102. doi : 10.5325/jasiapacipopcult.1.1.0079 . JSTOR 10.5325/jasiapacipopcult.1.1.0079 . S2CID 194483476 .
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^ De opkomst van de mangacultuur in België. Een subcultuuronderzoek. , Lora-Elly Vannieuwenhuysen, p. 48, KU Leuven, 2014–2015.
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Berry, B. (2017). Ethnographic Comparison of a Niche Fashion Group, Lolita (Thesis). Florida Atlantic University.
Christopherson, M. (2014). The Power of Cute: Redefining Kawaii Culture As a Feminist Movement (Thesis). Carthage College. Archived from the original on 11 August 2017 . Retrieved 10 February 2018 .
Coombes, K. (2016). Consuming Hello Kitty: Saccharide Cuteness in Japanese Society (Thesis). Wellesley College.
Gatlin, Chancy J. (2014). The Fashion of Frill: The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community (Thesis). Georgia State University.
Haijima, A. (2013). Japanese Popular Culture in Latvia: Lolita and Mori Fashion (Thesis). University of Latvia.
Hardy Bernal, Kathryn A. (2007). Kamikaze Girls and Loli-Goths . Fashion in Fiction Conference, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia. Archived from the original on 11 August 2017 . Retrieved 11 February 2018 .
Hardy Bernal, Kathryn Adele (2011). The Lolita Complex: A Japanese fashion subculture and its paradoxes (PDF) (MPhil Thesis). Auckland University of Technology. hdl : 10292/2448 .
Hinton, Perry R. (2013). "Returning in a Different Fashion: Culture, Communication, and Changing Representations of Lolita in Japan and the West" . International Journal of Communication . 7 : 1582–1602.
Mikami, K. (2011). Cultural Globalization in People's Life Experiences: Japanese Popular Cultural Styles in Sweden (Thesis). Stockholm University.
Monden, Masafumi (2008). "Transcultural Flow of Demure Aesthetics: Examining Cultural Globalisation through Gothic & Lolita Fashion, The Japan Foundation Sydney". New Voices . 2 : 21–40. doi : 10.21159/nv.02.02 .
Onohara, N. (2011). "Japan as fashion: Contemporary reflections on being fashionable". Acta Orientalia Vilnensia . 12 (1): 29–41. doi : 10.15388/AOV.2011.0.1095 .
Peirson-Smith, A. (2015). Hey sister, can I borrow your style?: a study of the trans-cultural, trans-textual flows of the Gothic Lolita trend in Asia and beyond (Thesis). City University of Hong Kong.
Plevíková, I. (2017). Lolita: A Cultural Analysis (Thesis). Masarykova Univerzita.
Robinson, K. (2014). Empowered Princesses: An Ethnographic Examination of the Practices, Rituals, and Conflicts within Lolita Fashion Communities in the United States (Thesis). Georgia State University.
Staite, S. Abigail (2012). Lolita: Atemporal Class-Play With tea and cakes (Thesis). University of Tasmania.
Valdimarsdótti, I. Guðlaug (2015). Fashion Subcultures in Japan. A multilayered history of street fashion in Japan (Thesis). University of Iceland.
Younker, T. (2011). "Lolita: Dreaming, Despairing, Defying" . Stanford Journal of East Asian Affairs . 11 (1): 97–110.
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Lolita fashion .
Lolita fashion ( ロリータ・ファッション , rorīta fasshon ) is a subculture from Japan that is highly influenced by Victorian clothing and styles from the Rococo period. [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] A very distinctive property of Lolita fashion is the aesthetic of cuteness . [7] [8] This clothing subculture can be categorized into three main substyles: ' gothic ', 'classic', and 'sweet'. [3] [9] Many other substyles such as 'sailor', 'country', 'hime' (princess), 'guro' ( grotesque ), 'qi' and 'wa' (based on traditional Chinese and Japanese dress), 'punk', 'shiro' (white), 'kuro' (black), and ' steampunk ' lolita also exist. This style evolved into a widely followed subculture in Japan and other countries in the 1990s and 2000s [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] and may have waned in Japan as of the 2010s as the fashion became more mainstream. [15] [16] [17]
The main feature of Lolita fashion is the volume of the skirt, created by wearing a petticoat or crinoline . [18] [19] [20] The skirt can be either bell-shaped or A-line shaped. [20] Components of the lolita wardrobe consist mainly of a blouse (long or short sleeves) with a skirt or a dress, which usually comes to the knees. [21] Lolitas frequently wear wigs in combination with other headwear such as hair bows or a bonnet (similar to a Poke bonnet ). Lolitas can also wear Victorian style drawers under their petticoats. For further effect some Lolitas use knee socks, ankle socks or tights together with either high heels or flat shoes with a bow are worn. Other typical Lolita garments are a jumperskirt (JSK) and one-piece (OP). [22]
Although the origin of the fashion is unclear, at the end of the 1970s a new movement known as Otome-kei was founded, which slightly influenced Lolita fashion since Otome means maiden and maiden style looks like a lesser elaborated Lolita style. [18] Before Otome-kei emerged, there was already a rise of the cuteness culture in the earlier seventies; during which there was a high emphasis on cute and childish handwriting in Japanese schools. [23] [24] [25] As a result of that the company Sanrio began experimenting with cute designs. [26] The cuteness style, known as kawaii style , became popular in the 1980s. [27] [28] After Otome-kei, Do-It-Yourself behavior became popular, which led to the emergence of a new style called 'doll-kei', the predecessor of Lolita fashion. [29] [21]
In the years of 1977–1998, a large part of the Harajuku shopping district closed for car traffic on Sundays. The result was an increase in interaction between pedestrians in Harajuku. [30] When brands like Pink House [ ja ] (1973), [10] [31] Milk (1970), [10] and Angelic Pretty (1979) [32] began to sell cute clothing, that resulted in a new style, which would later be known as 'Lolita'. [33] The term lolita first appeared in the fashion magazine Ryukou Tsushin in the September 1987 issue. [10] Shortly after that Baby, The Stars Shine Bright (1988), [34] Metamorphose temps de fille (1993), [35] and other brands emerged. [10] In the 1990s, lolita became more accepted, with visual kei bands like Malice Mizer and others rising in popularity. These band members wore elaborate clothes that fans began to adopt. [34] During this time Japan went through an economic depression, [36] leading to an increase in alternative youth and fashion cultures such as gyaru, otaku, visual kei, and lolita, [34] as well as visualkei inspired clothing such as Mori, Fairy Kei and Decora [37] The lolita style spread quickly from the Kansai region and finally reached Tokyo , [ citation needed ] partly due to the economic difficulties there was a big growth in the cuteness and youth cultures that originated in the seventies. [34]
In the late nineties, the Jingu Bashi (also called the Harajuku Bridge) became known as meeting place for youth who wore lolita and other alternative fashion, [10] [38] [39] [40] and lolita became more popular causing a spurt of lolita Fashion selling warehouses. [41] Important magazines that contributed to the spread of the fashion style were the Gothic & Lolita Bible (2001), a spin-off of the popular Japanese fashion magazine KERA [ ja ] (1998), and FRUiTS (1997). [42] [43] It was around this time when interest and awareness of Lolita Fashion began entering countries outside of Japan, with The Gothic & Lolita Bible being translated into English, distributed outside of Japan through the publisher Tokyopop , [44] [45] and FRUits publishing an English picture book of the Japanese Street Fashion in 2001. As the style became further popularized through the Internet, more shops opened abroad, such as Baby, The Stars Shine Bright in Paris (2007) [14] and in New York (2014). [46]
Over time, the youth that gathered in Harajuku or at Harajuku Bridge disappeared. One possible explanation is that the introduction of fast fashion from retailers H&M and Forever 21 has caused a reduction in the consumption of street fashion. [47] [16] FRUiTS ceased publication while Gothic & Lolita Bible was put on hiatus in 2017. [47] [48]
Western culture has influenced Lolita fashion. The book Alice in Wonderland (1865), [49] [50]
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