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May 4, by Perri Rothenberg. Well, better late than never is usually the saying, right? Though I thought I would start taking the time to document some of the insane trips over the past couple of months because these are the types of adventures that create the intrinsic motivation for everything I do on a daily basis. Back in the summer of , I suddenly got a call from the one and only Sir Red Rainey, whose voice can take you on an adventure anywhere. For those who have met him, you know what I mean. Book your flights' he said 'You are going to Japan, its happening, its going to be insane in the membrane and you have to be there. At the time I was sitting at my desk in Germany and without hesitation I booked a flat. I messaged my two best girlfriends from college. Sarah, one of my favorite traveling partners who is always down for a new adventure and Kate, whom we have been trying to plan a ski trip for quite sometime. As expected, they were super keen to go and started booking flights. The excitement was starting to settle in. Fast forward a couple more weeks and the trip was vastly approaching. At this point, it was first come first serve, who wanted to book a last minute trip to the worlds fluffiest pow, with a good vibe tribe that will easily transition into the squad of all squads? That was easy. I arrived in Japan. I decided to stay at the 9 Hour Hotel at the Narita airport because 1. I was in Tokyo last year and would rather spend the time to work than play. This place that they called a hotel was pretty much a modern day insane asylum for jet lagged wanderlusters. The checkin process took about 5 min. I proceeded into another monochromatic room and dumped my luggage into my designated locker while meticulously wandering into the shower. Clean, efficient and minimalistic, it was perfect the place to sleep for one night at the airport considering the circumstances. After traveling for 20 hours all I could really think of was sleep, so I tip toed into my pod for the evening. It was weird, spacious and a snoring neighbor was my soundtrack. Justin Beiber ring tones whistled in the air throughout the evening as my fellow pod-mates ventured off to their next destination. Oh how I love concept of travel. As per usual, 5am rolled around and I was wired and ready to go. Another very exciting day in a new airport. I read a Hypebeast article months back about the redesign of their domestic terminal and what do you know, I was flying domestic. Muji decor and color coded navigation on a running track, distinctly marked for those looking to get their steps in while perfecting the journey. Functional and simple, I was beyond satisfied with my office of the day. I bought a Japanese sim card, a coffee and sat down at a little coffee shop with the most annoying airport announcements in the world. No stress though - I put on my noise cancelling headphones and all of a sudden I was having a solo silent disco, Fleetwood Mac on repeat. My flight wasn't for another 7 hours, so I sat and let the working day commence but not before running into some familiar faces at the airport. Catching up over insane robot clubs and karaoke nights in Tokyo, I was secretly happy I let my inner introvert go wild at the 9 hour hotel. I met Sam, and knew the week was going to be one to remember. The transfer was long, but worth the wait. We arrived just in time for the opening party at the Barn, which was a rustic, tasteful venue with Mumm champagne flowing and reunions commencing. Within no time we were up on the mountain and gee wiz was it marvelous. A group of us decided to take gate 5 into the backcountry and though the powder wasn't shoulder deep it was still so much fun. The afternoons were spent working for a few hours while many went to onsens, and evenings were spent sipping sake at one of the many super cool bars of niseko. Because Japan is so much more zen than the other ski week locations, there were a few more intimate and smaller gatherings rather than the big 'ragers'. Some of the events that stood out were the Valentines Day evening ski and the snow shoe hike to a snow lounge in the magic of what is the Japanese zen forest. The ski week left cozy postcards with a fellow room number to help integrate the group, so we had a glass of bubbly and went to the mountain for a night ski session. Another amazing extra was a day snow mobiling trip with Par Pow Paradise into the back country of japan - an add on, but definitely a unique experience. For the few nights that there was a proper apres ski event, girl boss DJ Anna killed the game and it was definitely a night to remember. Let's not forget about the 17 liter Sake barrel that was tapped into and gone within a few minutes Its a very special feeling being around strangers who pretty much all think quite similarly. Japan is a special place, and the ski week fostered with a feng shui that simply works. If you are expecting a wild party, book aspen or austria but if you are looking for an event that gives you the time to actually get to know people, book japan. The Ski Week: Niseko, Japan. Meanwhile in Norway We grabbed sushi, made it through security and was well on our way to Niseko. More importantly, the skiing was pure ecstasy. The Ski Week. May 4, May 10, Sail to Ski in Lyngen, Norway. Apr 15, Spring Skiing in Val Thorens, France. Jan 28, The Ski Week: Chamonix. Apr 10,
The Ski Week: Niseko, Japan
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Our blog covers any and all topics of travel in Hokkaido - from the best gourmet oysters to off-the-beaten-track adventures - and everything in between. Being on the road - immersed in Hokkaido's pristine nature and vibrant culture - we love to share our experiences, recommendations and connections with the people and nature from Japan's great northern island! Thank you for visiting, and as we often say. Enjoy Nature, Be Happy! Sapporo is synonymous with beer, so much so that many summer visitors to our northern city will inadvertently stumble upon it. From western blocks five to ten, all of the big breweries are in attendance, as well as a block dedicated to world beers. Although now tamer than previous years, a Bacchanal atmosphere permeates the air, inciting strangers to toast, exchange phone numbers, and sometimes wander off together. The Godfather of all beers Japan, Sapporo Beer - with its tall statuesque silver cans - has long been available in North America and Europe, while a variety of export and domestic labels color Asian markets. A lot has happened in years. Other major brewing companies such as Kirin, Asahi and Suntory have become equally as popular, both home and abroad. And thanks to the lowering of minimum brewing quantity requirements for beer manufacturing licenses in the past 25 years, smaller regional breweries have popped open all over the country. As the major breweries depend on revenue from mass-produced pale lagers and pilsners, the microbrewery beer scene flourishes by satisfying the flavor-starved palates of thirsty drinkers, leaving the big boys scrambling to get a piece of the market. In Hokkaido alone new craft breweries are opening up every year. Travel farther out across the island and a number of craft beer destinations open up. Niseko Brewery, located in the once sleepy town famed for its unreal annual snowfall, entered the stage in with a strong selection of beers. My personal favorite, The Oyster Stout, has a rich chocolate sweetness and a touch of brine from the oysters that make each sip a mouthful of umami goodness. Heading to Noboribetsu for an onsen? Why not swing in to the Noboribetsu brewpub for a post-bath pint? This brewery is unafraid of experimentation, having produced white peach, strawberry and raspberry beers as well as 6. I call that dinner in a bottle. Going as far as the Sea of Okhotsk? Abashiri is well known for its prison-turned museum and delicious seafood, but the Abashiri Beer Brewery is not to be overlooked. Originally founded in by the Tokyo University of Agriculture as a biological industry research center for developing local beer, the brewery went commercial in Over the past several years, craft beer-centric restaurants have been multiplying throughout the city. Stroll down to the west seven block and pop in for an up-and-coming Japanese brew or an American craft favorite. This working brewpub has fresh tap beer made on location, with a gourmet menu that compliments each beer perfectly. Another favorite of mine is the aptly named Beer Cellar, located near the Prince Hotel. This wood-paneled den of mirth features eight beers on tap and a variety of Portland imports, as well as domestic craft bottles. Hop down to Tokyo, Osaka or any of the other southern metropolises and there is no shortage of craft beer options. There are literally thousands of pubs and alehouses to visit, as well as local breweries to tour and beer festivals to attend. Just last week, I moseyed up to the Sapporo Craft Beer Forest, an annual event that grows in popularity every year. It was a blast. On a clear day, the 1,meter peak offers commanding degree views of the surrounding Yubari Range and Furano plain. I had the pleasure of going up the mountain for the first time just last week. Having accepted the invitation to join my good friends Ido and Anastasia, I was excited to climb something new. Our party was squared to four with the addition of our German friend Ulli, another experienced mountaineer. After stocking up at the grocery store with victuals for the BBQ and beers for the cooler, we drove to the Ashibetsu-dake campground, seated at the foot of the mountain. The groundskeepers had just finished mowing the wide grassy lawns which exuded a fragrance of pure summer. The campsite has two covered wash areas with sinks and tables, as well as bathrooms in the center of the grounds. An enormous fire pit sits in the far corner of the campground, and on this day there was a pile of wood in its center taller than me. Our hike began with a bit of confusion, as we started not on the actual trail to the peak, but a scenic horseshoe trail unconnected to the main path. By the tall wire gate is a registry box for hikers to sign before heading up the mountain. Going through and then locking the gate itself gave the start of our hike a slightly foreboding feeling. The forest is dark and shaded, with ferns lining the pathway. In June the sasa is still short, allowing for views deep into the woods. Although infrequent, encounters between hikers and bears happen every year. Most of these are mere sightings. Even better is to carry a whistle and blow it intermittently as you proceed on your way. Having lost Anastasia to the allure of onsens and gourmet jam stores, the three of us powered up the trail at a strong pace. Our false start had robbed us of an hour of sunlight, and we anticipated seven hours of walking round trip. The woods were cool, the trail even and well maintained. The approach runs steadily up the spine of the ridge, without ever becoming taxingly steep or gnarly. One that relatively fit people of all ages can enjoy. Azaleas bloomed in pink bursts to our right and left, while white viburnum bent above us in the breeze. We got our first good views at about the halfway point. Rock outcroppings overlooking the canopy of birch and beech forest gave us a terrific view of the valley basin below. Clouds fit for a Ghibli movie floated like flat-bottomed puffballs across the sky. The blue backbone of other ranges undulated like a snake along the horizon. We had originally thought to go up and explore the old trail but were told by the groundskeepers that it was overgrown and eroded. Given our race against the light and our disinterest in meeting Mr. Bear, we stayed on course. A pair of hikers coming down warned us to be careful on the snowy sections, one of them showing us fresh bruises on her arm. Sure enough, we soon came upon several large patches of snow, one of them a good hundred meters long. After four hours of huffing and puffing, we arrived at the peak at about 4pm. The weather was ideal, affording us spectacular views in all directions. With only two and a half hours of daylight left, we hustled back down the mountain. The snowfields proved trickier than expected to navigate while standing, so we slid down them somewhat haphazardly on our butts. The orange evening light gave the forest the soothing, contemplative quality of a Maxfield Parrish painting. We pounded downhill as the woods darkened around us, sometimes in conversation, sometimes quiet. Our legs were at their limits as we spilled out of the trees and onto pavement. Sweaty and exhausted, we slapped high fives for a mountain well-hiked. Anastasia, knowing full well what tired hikers need at the end of the day, had camp chairs set up and the bbq going. Hot grilled food and cold beers fueled our conversation under the starlit dome of the night sky. Let this be the standard for anyone visiting Ashibetsu-dake. Having just spent the New Year holiday with our families there and contemplating on the resorts around the island, we have realized why we love it so much. Mostly, we love it for the balance of a top ski resort with great value deals in an idyllic atmosphere of the snowy Japanese inaka , or countryside. Shirohige Falls. Penguin Parade at Asahiyama Zoo. For a more peaceful, family centered and kid-friendly environment, we recommend heading to Furano. They go absolutely free of charge! When you get off the Kitanomine Gondola you can see people hiking up a steep, side-country ridge above the lift, an attraction for advanced riders who look for more challenging slopes. Beginner to intermediate riders can stick to the green or red slopes and enjoy powder ski conditions with way less crowds than in Niseko. No wasting precious time waiting in lines! At my hotel during the New Year holidays, after a long day of non-stop snowboarding, I soaked in an outdoor bath at my hotel overlooking the tranquil snowy fields. The best part was that I had the bath all to myself. What a treat! Furano Ski Resort. From observing locals during morning cross country skiing routine, to shoveling the snow after a big dump, to learning how to make a forest themed craft at our DIY workshop at Ningle Terrace, taught by the owner himself. Since Furano is far more affordable than Niseko, the town attracts many more Japanese families. All of that ensures a more authentic Japanese cultural experience in Furano. Ningle Terrace. Furano is More Affordable Yes, Furano is more affordable. Not only are there better hotel, ski lesson and rental rates, but advanced riders will find cat-ski backcountry experiences at half the price of Niseko! Located literally in the center-point of Hokkaido, Furano has amazing backcountry in every direction! I do know some people who go to the backcountry on their own, with topographical maps and hike descriptions, but it can be very dangerous due to unstable weather conditions, avalanches, or the risk of getting lost. So hiring a professional guide is highly recommended. You could literally be based in Furano and ride the top 5 backcountry destinations on day trips if you were so inclined. Furano truly offers something for everyone on a winter trip. You probably thought about the great expanses of Canada, or perhaps the steppe of Central Asia. For a two week period each spring and fall, the white-fronted geese arrive just outside Sapporo at Miyajima-numa, a relatively small wetlands on the outskirts of Bibai City. They come all the way from Russia, where they spend summers breeding and fattening up off the rich taiga, with few predators or people around. Every fall, they undertake a long journey south to Miyagi Prefecture, where they survive the short but freezing winter. Along their migration route lies Hokkaido, Bibai to be specific, where rice left over from the harvest of hardworking local farmers provides excellent nutrition for their journey. The young chicks, on their first and most perilous journey south, receive much needed rest. There was magic in the air and the feeling of the world as it should be: healthy, balanced and interconnected. These visitors from the far north brought with them far more than just a brood of chikcs - they brought hope, vitality and inspiration - that in spite of all the changes facing our planet there still remains mystery and magic, a hope for living alongside nature and not just destroying it, a glimmer of a paradise lost. It happened to be the morning of the Sapporo Marathon, so getting out of the city center proved to be a challenge, one of the many up ahead. Our favourite route to Furano goes via country roads, away from highway traffic. The weather promised to be good for the first day, but would deteriorate on days 2 and 3 of the tour. With that in mind, we headed to Furano and Biei on Day 1 for the famous flower fields and local gourmet experiences. The hills of Furano and Biei were covered in a rainbow palette of late summer flowers. Gold-winning Furano melons were on sale, and we sampled slices of the orange and green fruit. A minute drive from Furano is Biei, an agricultural town famous for its picturesque landscape and gourmet restaurants. We reached Shikisai-no-Oka, an iconic flower farm with views over the hills, which our guests loved. For lunch, we headed to a midrange restaurant we like, only to have discovered a long que out the door. Not keen on wasting time in a que, we went further afield to a cute restaurant in a wooden house named Birch, after the birch trees which surround it. It made us consider how being on a private, custom-made tour allows for such flexibility. Potato pizza, cold corn soup, shrimp curry, salads — everything was great! The previously little-known pond became a big tourist hit in part because of Apple, who used its image as default desktop picture on the iMac. The color of the pond is ever-changing, depending on the light that hits it. To our shock, the Blue Pond was closed! It now seems that the Blue Pond may be no longer, although efforts are underway to try a salvage operation. Nevertheless, the Shirahige Waterfall was beautiful as ever, and the milky-blue waters of the Biei Gawa unchanged. A cement platform holds 2 manmade pools, a couple of benches and a changing area, all that on a mountain slope with the gushing stream surrounded by the pristine forest. The two local men chuckled at our guests, who did everything they could to stay hidden behind the rocks. There are stunning views of the Tokachi mountain range, all the way down to the Furano plains below. Up here, far removed from the tourist bustle int he valley, the quite road draws out the wildlife. Sure enough, we stumbled upon a young fox, obviously a veteran of begging for his meals roadside! He gave us a chance to take few wonderful shots. After the last rays of the sun slipped over the Biei mountains across the valley, we finally arrived at the hotel where we dropped our guests off for the night donning happy faces that should never be taken for granted! Our original plan was to hike up Asahidake — the highest mountain in Hokkaido. Ai Teng and James met us after breakfast in hiking outfits, hiking poles in hand. We loved their enthusiastic attitude but the Asahidake Ropeway which was supposed to bring us to the base of the mountain was suspended due to strong winds. Another typhoon was approaching offshore and expected to hit Hokkaido that night which was pretty disappointing. Ido analyzed the situation and made the only right decision: to find another hiking route. At first we decided to hike a well-known nearby mountain, the great hike of Ashibetsu Dake, and drove towards it. However, the rain soon began and the sky turned darkish grey. Nobody objected when we made a U-turn and headed in the opposite direction, to Biei, where the sky remained clear. Ido poured over topographical maps to locate an accessible mountain with a trail and some sun. We took a dirt road along farmlands that brought us to a rather steep, logging mountain, with the sun shining bright. We found our piece of calm amid the approaching storm. I lead a short stretching warm-up that Ai Teng and James seemed to enjoy: stretch your feet, legs and hips, roll your shoulders, shake your arms, a few squats and we were ready to hike. We drove in a light rain, enjoying picturesque landscapes, stopping to take pictures of yellowish rice paddies ready for the harvest. Yet, the most amazing photos of the day awaited us at the end of the road where a huge rainbow, hanging low and flat and almost touching the tree tops, delighted everybody. To get a good shot, with the composition not interrupted by electric poles and wires, I had to climb over the road fence and balance myself at the top of an old wooden pole sticking out from the side of the road. And, Viola! Here is my super psychedelic rainbow. Here again, the previous typhoon caused massive damage. An entire meter sections of the road had buckled, collapsed, and been washed away. The day ended with an early check-in at the hotel, letting James and Ai Teng have some free time to unwind and enjoy the serene nature and a hot springs bath. One cannot help but adjust oneself to the weather, so we pulled on our raingear, put on happy faces, and headed off to start the day. We drove around the northern end of the national park, to Sounkyo Gorge, where remains one of the best kept secrets of Hokkaido — the 8 Waterfalls Trail. A path follows an abandoned road, which has been closed for traffic for over 15 years. Visitors need to hop over a low fence to earn the right to gape at the awe inspiring scenery of pinnacle rock formations, meter tall cliff walls, a succession of waterfalls of various forms and sizes, Ezo spotted-deer and white-tailed eagles, eerily abandoned tunnels, landslides spilled out over retaining walls and not a soul around. It serves Italian-Japanese fusion cuisine: with locally-sourced vegetables, fish and meat. Here it is: fresh cream, cheese, bacon, bread chunks, slices of potato, bell peppers and eggplant in a half pumpkin. Oiishi-so ne! The rain got stronger and then, inexplicably, stopped. A beautiful rainbow appeared, this time visible from one pot of gold to the other. An old woman came out from an adjoining house, pushing a wheelbarrow out to collect the ripened watermelons before the next typhoon hit. Super excited, I asked her if we could buy one, but she refused to accept any money and gave me one for free. What a surprise that was! To exchange the favor, I grabbed a couple of cans of beer from the car — all we had available for the exchange — and placed them in her wheelbarrow. Her genuine laughter was even better than the melon, which itself was delectable. And then she plodded off, pushing her wheelbarrow back home, filled with ripe watermelons and two lovely beers. The highlight was a quaint flower sculpture, a signature of the garden. And with the wind tearing through the umbrella it looks even more like a fairy-tale. The time in the wonderful garden went by fast and we all enjoyed it. On the road back to Sapporo, we watched massive clouds gathering all around us, and saw rivers almost spilling out over their banks. Can you imagine: another amazing rainbow appeared and was lasting for almost an hour! I have never seen such rainbows! Of course, being unable to reach our desired destinations was upsetting, but in spite of that, we had a great time amidst the wonderful nature and spontaneous encounters of life on the road in Hokkaido. Until next time. I love Hokkaido in every season, but there are a number of good reasons why spring here feels so unique. In Japan, the season of changing winds and pink petals comes last to Hokkaido. Whereas Tokyoites and Osakans are already sweating in the heat of the southern summer, Dosanko Hokkaidoans are basking in a wide-array of blossoms, a resurgent sun and in the freshness of the spring air. Cherry blossom, pink phlox, yellow mustard, rapeseed, tulip and lilac festivals, to name a few, make ideal destinations for family sightseeing, a local gourmet experience, or a spring photoshoot. You can combine the gorgeous and constantly blooming landscapes with a number of fun and adventurous activities to make the best out of your spring visit to Hokkaido. Gentle pink petals dancing in the air, masses of laughs and happy faces, smoky barbecues tantalizing the taste buds: hanami matsuri , or cherry blossom viewing festival, is the main spring event all over the country. At the southern tip of Hokkaido is Matsumae town, which not only houses the northernmost castle in Japan, but also has one of the longest hanami matsuris. The traditional atmosphere of the 17th century castle town offers the most authentic hanami matsuri experience in Hokkaido and ranked as one of the top sites for sakura viewing in Japan. Come here with your botany book to see how many kinds of cherry trees you can find. Would you like to try your luck at spotting marine wildlife in Hokkaido? If so, quickly finish your shopping in Sapporo and endeavor on a great nature tour to the remote eastern part of the island which is blessed with an abundance of nature. Off the coasts of Nemuro, Shiretoko and Abashiri, boats ply the waters from early April to October, providing opportunities for dolphin and whale watching. Experience the atmosphere of the northern sea with its unique marine life, great seafood and beautiful warm-hearted people. While on the way to your destination, enjoy the pure nature of eastern Hokkaido with its numerous lakes, rivers, waterfalls and hot springs. A glider, a helicopter or a Cessna, which one do you prefer? As a beautiful technical wonder, a glider travels across the sky only by the force of wind. Takikawa is also one of the largest producers of canola in Japan, where large fields are covered in brilliant yellow flowers from late May until early June. If you prefer pink, better take a scenic flight at Takinoue or Higashomokoto Pink Moss Festival for all the pink you can imagine. The two venues are very similar as they both offer pretty hills of bright pink blossoms, little carts that take visitors around the parks, pink phlox ice cream and other locally produced delicacies. Moreover, if you have some extra money and courage to spare, I recommend taking a memorable scenic flights over the parks. You can choose between a helicopter at Takinoue or a Cessna over Higashimokoto. These one of a kind experiences guarantee memories that will last a lifetime. Rivers in Hokkaido are mostly timid. They are nice for relaxing eco-rafting for families with young kids. April rafting is definitely worth trying if you happen to be in Hokkaido at this time of year, like adrenaline and are in good physical condition. Shinhidaka, a town famous for horse farms, organic horse-oil beauty and health products, and thoroughbred ranches, is also one of the best cherry blossom locations in Hokkaido. There are many spots in Hidaka for cherry blossom viewing, the most famous being the Nijukkan Road, with 3 trees blooming altogether in mid-May. With this late date, Hidaka takes the prize for the latest cherry blossom viewing region in Japan. Now imagine yourself riding an award-winning pure bred horse beneath the fluttering cherry blossoms. The city of Abashiri, in the east of Hokkaido, is known for drift ice, delicious seafood and the notorious Abashiri prison. The severe winters guaranteed strict punishment for political prisoners, who were forced to survive by the rough and cold waters of the Sea of Okhotsk. As spring arrives and the drift ice retreats, crabs become an easy catch. In late May, the town holds a special 'Spring Crab Battle' with chefs from more than 30 restaurants trying to outdo each other in their mastery and originality of crab preparation. Arrive early at the Abashiri Port for a peak at the morning catch and put yourself on a strict crab diet: crab fried rice, crab rice bowl, crab egg rolls, crab risotto, miso crab, grilled crab, crab crab crab! There is no end to it! Spring is breeding time for the tancho red-crested crane and grey heron which reside here. Take a walking tour or canoe trip with a nature guide and try your luck with wildlife spotting. Or just enjoy the spectacular natural environment of the rehabilitated wetlands, one of the most successful conservation projects in Japan. Another way to enjoy bird watching is by visiting Kushiro Zoo, one of the largest in Japan. The zoo is mainly devoted to the conservation of red-crested cranes through the Protection and Breeding Center. From spring to summer, the zoo also comes alive with a grey heron colony of over nests. Kiritappu-shitsugen Wetlands extend along the east coast of Hokkaido beside the Pacific Ocean. At high tide, seawater flows in along rivers, inundating the central parts of the wetland. If you want to leave your mark here, you can volunteer to help locals maintain and repair the boardwalks, all of which have been built and preserved by local residents and past volunteers. The unmistakable flavor of spring is fresh vegetables. In Japanese supermarkets, among freshly grown asparagus and spinach, you can encounter a surprising variety of stems, leaves, roots and sprouts that maybe you have never seen before, yet alone eaten. They are universally called sansai , mountain vegetables, which derive from the traditional lifestyle of an agrarian past and appear on supermarket shelves for a short time in spring. The end of the season is also marked by a Costume Parade, where you can encounter cosplay and manga heroes right on the slopes. If you are fond of mountains and people-watching, Niseko is your best bet. Here you can have the best pizza in Hokkaido, dine at Michelin rated restaurants and sample a large variety of excellent international cuisine. Wherever your adventures in Hokkaido take you this spring, get out there, enjoy nature and be happy! Beyond the poetry see The Heart of an Onsen : Part 1 , there are a few essential rules for how to behave properly in an onsen , better known as yarikata — the way something is done. The Naked Truth Many foreigners who visit Japan feel uneasy about public nudity at onsens. Back home, bathing is done in private and away from the leering eyes of others. For most people, that discomfort lasts for just a few minutes once they realize that everyone else is naked too! Japan is an egalitarian society, and that is epitomized at an onsen. While bathing, it no longer matters what position one holds at a company, what car one drives or in which neighborhood one lives. Everyone is truly, nakedly, equal. The Onsen Towel The only object that is permitted past the dressing room is the small, conspicuous, barely-there white towel. The towel is used both as a wash cloth and to somewhat cover your nakedness while walking between baths. While in the hot springs, it is considered impure to dip towels in the water, which is why you should either place the towel at the edge of the bath, or fold in a square and rest it on top of your head. Wash Before You Bathe It is essential to completely wash your body before going into a hot spring pool since hot springs are common spaces in Japan. More so than in nearly any other country, Japanese people show respect to others in common spaces such as subways, parks, shops and of course, at the onsen. Washing Stations Next to the shower you'll see a little chair and a bucket. Sit in the chair and soak your onsen towel in the bucket. I have seen people spend over a half hour just scrubbing themselves, to the point where their skin turns red, before they ever enter the baths. Going to a hot springs is probably the most accessible form of a Japanese purification ritual that foreigners can witness. Post- onsen You can lounge around the bathing area and enter the baths as many times as you like. The real old-timers stay in for at least an hour. Use the onsen towel to dry yourself a little, then enter the dressing room and grab your full-length towel from your basket, or simply air-dry. At bigger onsens you can find various beauty products invitingly set in the dressing room: Hilauronic acid, collagen, placenta, royal jelly and other well-branded cosmetic giveaways always make me happy to spend extra time taking good care of myself. If you want to finish off your bath in a truly Japanese way, head for the vending machines and grab yourself a small bottle of milk. There is the belief that milk rejuvenates the body after bathing. In some onsens you can still find signs at the entrance informing visitors that tattoos are not allowed. It is an anachronistic custom of a bygone era when tattoos were attributed to yakuzas mafia , the dominant criminal group of post-war Japan. If you are asked to leave, there is really no point in arguing. Obviously, as a foreigner, you could never be a yakuza ; but after all, this is still Japan, where yarikata is bigger than any of us. At least you are now aware of the essential yarikata of taking an onsen. But there is one rule we neglected to tell you so far: leaving Japan without visiting at least one onsen is, well, criminal! Anastasia at HNT. Every traveler who sets their mind on writing about Japan inevitably and wholeheartedly comes to talk about onsens - Japanese hot springs. There are many reasons why. First of all, Japan is an archipelago, located in the ring of fire, where two massive tectonic plates collide to create incessant volcanic activity. The fertile volcanic soil and multi-hued water are rich in minerals of all kinds: Iron, magnesium, calcium and sulfur to name a few. There are more than established onsens in Japan and in every guide book an onsen visit is recommended as a must-do. Towns and prefectures compete with each other for the title of 'the best'. There is too large a variety for such a label to apply. There is the largest, the oldest, the most modern or traditional; child-free, mixed, geisha approved, yakuza welcomed; at the lake shore, by the sea, at the foot of a volcano, wild onsen , onsen with hot rocks, mud baths, mineral-rich, medicinal, and even fruit-scented, coffee-suffused and tea-drawn pools. One could spend a lifetime soaking in them all. Onsens are not only touted for their natural beauty and health-restoring benefits, but they are perhaps the quintessential Japanese cultural experience. Indeed, for every Japanese person, going to an onsen is an indispensable ritual. The very creation myths of the Yamato race reflect the disgust of polluting the body and spirit, and the bliss of undertaking rites of purification. Alternatively, many of my non-Russian western friends feel ashamed at showing their bodies in public. In the US for example, there isn't such a thing as public bathing. Bathing is something very private that is done at home, locked away from other family members. In Finland, at the other extreme, public bathing is usually mixed-sex, so bathing with the other gender is completely accepted. Historically in Japan as well, men and women bathed together, but gender separation has been enforced since the opening of Japan to the West during the Meiji Restoration years ago. Nowadays, mixed-bathing, or konyoku , is only found in out-of-the-way rural communities. Let's take a closer look at the Japanese ritual of an onsen. Every onsen has common features, such as changing rooms, showers and baths: it is of course the latter that gives an onsen its reputation. An outdoor bath, called rotenburo , is the heart and soul of an onsen. Here, in a beautiful natural setting, you can let go of all the stress of day to day life to reunite yourself with nature, nourish your body, and purify your mind with beauty and peace. Not every onsen has a rotenburo , and not every rotenburo is beautiful; but those that are provide a true contemplative and meditative experience. Japanese people can sit in a rotenburo for hours when the feeling is just right. Such moments, when you're sitting in a rotenburo amid the falling snow, watching it land on your shoulders and disappearing in the steaming hot springs water — those moments and impressions help define Japan. Such experiences are pure ecstasy for the poetry-prone Japanese heart; but you certainly don't have to be Japanese to feel such bliss. It's so good to be on the At Mt. Teine since the start of the season 3 weeks ago, I've seen childish grins on hedonistic middle-aged men, screams of fear from first-time visitors from the south, contentment from old-timers who remember when the resort was built, and love between a rider and the elements in a reunion with the timeless snowy mountains. After all, we are often cold, homebound and in the dark. And then the first powder day arrives like the messiah on a white horse. The coldness turns to freshness, the darkness a mere break from the light, and the homeboundedness a rest for the weary legs between powder days. For us shredders, no time in the year passes as smoothly as winter! Sunday morning, up at 6am. The body vibrates with excitement when I put on my snow gear. The hearty breakfast of a sandwich with goat cheese and smoked salmon and a cup of Earl Grey tea fortifies me for the day. We packed the snowboards, gear and ourselves in our warm car, driving through the sleepy city in the misty and frosty morning with Bob Marley singing about Positive Vibrations. At this point, happy as one can be. They have just started skiing a couple of seasons ago. Even though we tried to convince them to learn snowboarding, they chose skiing. Like losing someone to idolatry. But we must accept and move on. When I tried skiing for the first time at 12 years old, nobody ever heard of a snowboard. But the moment I strapped that single board onto my feet, I never dreamed of going back to skiing. Why is that? I guess different styles attract different types of people. Skiing gives you more control and speed, whereas snowboarding is more about flexibility and freedom. The side road to Teine along residential areas skirting the mountains allows us to avoid the city traffic. Driving on the icy Hokkaido roads is an adventure in itself. For those not used to winter driving, we highly recommend to ride in a car with an experienced driver. The steep and sharp turns on ice-covered roads are not for the inexperienced, and may ruin your day. Another important topic is winter gear: My fingers tend to get really cold, even in down mittens. After trying different things, I discovered that it doesn't happen if I wear an under layer. Even thin gloves will do. Long heat preserving underwear, sport socks, goggles, a helmet, and before you start your morning on the slopes, stretching. OK, all points checked. Let's begin. Powder is magical substance. It's soft yet firm enough to hold you up. Riding in powder snow is amazing. How to float above the powder and feel the softness of the paradox that is nothing more than frozen water? Have you ever considered how to get off your first lift on a snowboard and progress to the off-piste powder runs? Every turn, weather on skis or a snowboard, must be made in balance, in a slow natural rhythm. As if it were yesterday I still remember my first day on the mountain. The snow felt like concrete, the edges of my snowboard like knives, my legs like two foreign appendages. Everyone skid like James Bond while I alone was simply trying to survive. Thanks to my instructor I got better with each and every turn. By lunch, I was already linking my turns. By the afternoon, I could practice on my own with confidence. My instructor knew exactly what I needed to work on at each moment and that made all the difference. He broke it down to a science — a logical sequence of steps. At the end of the day I couldn't wait to try again on the morrow. Now into my 6th season in Hokkaido, I take others on the best runs of their life. Until then, Enjoy Nature, Be Happy! The HNT Team. A cold November day, waiting for the snow, with a couple of hours to burn. The world burns as well - in Paris, Beirut, Damascus, Sinai, Kenya, Congo - burning in a fire of revenge and retributions. We took this as an opportunity to think and be peace, and went on a short pilgrimage to the Sapporo Peace Pagoda. Halfway up Mount Moiwa, the bulbous white stupa can be seen from almost any place in the city. It was built in to commemorate peace after World War II, and supposedly contains some of the ashes of the Buddha that were presented to the Emperor of Japan by Prime Minister Nehru in With this in mind, it is a holy place, worthy of a short walk from the bottom of Mt. The original idea belonged to a Japanese buddhist monk, Nichidatsu Fujii — , who was greatly inspired by his meeting with Mahatma Gandhi in and decided to devote his life to promoting non-violence. In , he began constructing Peace Pagodas as shrines to world peace. The first Peace Pagoda that Fujii-san built sits in Hiroshima. Our first peace pagoda that we visited was in Pokhara, Nepal. That visit turned out to be a beautiful full-day hike through winding mountain roads, villages and trails. The atmosphere of rural living, women bathing at the river, lazy boats at the bucolic lake, cobbled stones leading up the hill, Buddhist flags draping the trees, and the blooming Christmas Stars. The same white dome structure, the same peaceful atmosphere in a wonderful setting. Lumbini is a collection of temples and monasteries from every Buddhist country in the world, each representing a different culture and teaching, often from different schools of Buddhism. On a cool and mistly morning, we went temple hopping on old and rusty bikes. The Vietnamese monastery, looking like an abandoned amusement park, amused us. The caretaker was a big white crane living in the garden. The Burmese Golden Pagoda with daedal metal work looked like a puzzle to be solved. The gates of the Vippasana meditation center were locked with a note saying that there was a course in-progress. Eventually, we reached the Peace Pagoda. There we met a barefoot pilgrim repeating his mantra, ' Bhagavan! Lastly, visiting the Peace Pagoda in Ladakh, in the northern region of India, on the border with Tibet, was another unforgettable experience. All those traveling days become bright and lively and surge back to life every time I look at the Peace Pagoda in Sapporo. The stupas in Pokhara, Lumbini and Ladakh look very much like Sapporo's, creating an invisible bond between our past and present moments, making this place here, in Sapporo, even more special to our eyes and our hearts. Perhaps the peace activist Fujii-san meant that just as we have to carry ourselves to visit his Peace Pagodas around the world, so we must carry ourselves to reach peace within. Here's to our journey, all of our journeys - may they be ever peaceful. Thank you for visiting us at Hokkaido Nature Tours! General Contact Email: \[email protected\]. Spring Whitewater Rafting Rivers in Hokkaido are mostly timid. Abashiri Crab Competitions - Gourmet Paradise The city of Abashiri, in the east of Hokkaido, is known for drift ice, delicious seafood and the notorious Abashiri prison. Sansai Hunting The unmistakable flavor of spring is fresh vegetables.
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