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Monday — it was time to move on. Remember this trip took place in , so things especially prices were different back then. This account was written as soon as we got home and sent to various friends and family. I have made only a few adjustments to it for this post. At the information centre we asked about trains to Lednice near the Austrian border. The receptionist interrogated her computer, and started writing down train times. Then she said it was no good. Yes you could get there by train, but it was very complicated — too many changes. Better to go by bus. When did the bus go? Fifteen minutes ago — there was only one per day. However, we had enough information to know that if we went to Breclav pronounced Bretzlav , we should be able to get either a bus or train to Lednice from there. The journey was straightforward, only one change — it just depends on what time of day you travel as to whether you change once or four times. The train stopped for a while where the track was being repaired, giving us time to see silver studded skippers, several fritillaries, orange skippers, pearly heath, painted lady and meadow brown butterflies. In Breclav we looked for a bus to the campsite. We were somewhat confounded by the bus timetables, but it seemed the problem was that the bus station was a few hundred yards along the road, and not all of the buses stopped at the station. We were told this by a young lady who noted our puzzlement and asked if she could help. However, she filled in the missing words with German ones, and so I understood her. She showed us where the bus station was, and en route explained that she had been studying horticulture at the famous horticultural school at Lednice, and was now in her final year. By some luck, we caught a bus within five minutes, and it dropped us right outside the campsite. A bus-stop right outside the campsite was a convenience paid for with the noise of a busy road. However, at least the ground was level, and we were on grass rather than lumps of rock. We got the tent up, and then went walkabout. Lednice held the summer residence of the Liechtenstein family, one of the most powerful landowners in Czechoslovakia, until when nearly all the ethnic Germans who lived in the country were forced to leave. It had been part of the family estate since , and was subjected to a lavish rebuild in the s, which turned it into a new-Gothic extravaganza this is from the Rough Guide If the tourist bus gets there first, then just join the queue! According to the information on the back of the local map, the Lednice-Valtice area consists of vast expanses of an open countryside with forests and bodies of water, meadows and fields, with a firm order superimposed to it by avenues of trees that radiate from the town of Lednice. Light outlines of small stately homes and temples set against picturesque copses lend their unique charm to the remarkable work of nature and man. In , Premysl Otakar gave this area adjoining the Moravian-Austrian border, together with a part of Lednice, as a present to Henry of Liechtenstein. In the course of time, the size of the Liechtenstein estate changed, as did the importance of its constituting parts. In , however, Valtice became the residence of the ruling duke and remained so until and the Liechtensteins — in agreement with their inspired concept of their duties as owners of a large estate — concentrated all their efforts to purposeful landscaping of the countryside and completing it with structures according to the ever-changing taste of the day. They built attractive mansions surrounded with decorative gardens. Later, they also added minor structures to introduce unique features to the countryside landscaped with new forests and ponds. In order to facilitate the implementation of their plans, the Liechtensteins opened a designing studio in Lednice headed by a construction director and staffed with graduates from Vienna technical university. Today a cluster of buildings at the site of a medieval residence consists of a Baroque part with stables from , and the residential quarters proper, which acquired their neo Gothic appearance when original Baroque structures were converted to that style and completed in The state wing of the residence adjoins an orangery containing species of tropical and subtropical plants. A total of conifers and deciduous trees and their varieties can be found over the vast area of the park. At the north end of the main lake is a minaret, which is 62m high and was built in with three galleries and stairs. According to the Rough Guide, the Liechtensteins wanted to build a colossal church, but the locals objected, so they further alienated at the village by building the largest minaret outside the Islamic world. The grounds are open to the public, and a footpath system allows you to walk around the lakes and explore the islands. Actually, the gates on the island causeways were padlocked, hopefully to protect the breeding birds. At the first small pond we were greeted by the croaking of a marsh frog, and watched a common tern fishing. One thing that struck us when walking around the footpath, was the large number of ancient trees. I mean trees with large girths, including one or two with hollow trunks that you could walk into. A sign prohibited camping, fires, collecting plants, and collecting beetles. The significance of the latter became apparent later as we found several large woodboring beetles, including stag beetles , that are becoming rare in western Europe. They depend on ancient trees, and here the threat seems to be from beetle collectors, rather than pesticides or forestry. At the far end of the lake, near the minaret, was a large heronry, where Bob estimated pairs of grey heron, and 20 pairs of black crowned night herons, were raising families. While we were looking at the herons, a man came up and asked us something. It was a while later that it occurred to me that he was asking if his small son could look through my binoculars at the herons. I hope he found someone else who did understand and could oblige. There were, of course, more than just birds and trees to look at. A grass snake gliding across the water surface to one of the islands. A hare sitting quietly on the far side of a meadow. The red squirrel that came out from behind a bush, looked us up and down, and then went back behind the bush. Butterflies — white admiral, comma, map. Dragonflies too busy patrolling territories to stop and let us identify them. Field crickets trilling as the afternoon wore on. Bob was determined to see one, and eventually succeeded — only to have the creature rush back down its burrow before I got there. I waited with the camera, and eventually took a couple of pictures of a field cricket, half hidden by the grass. Then, as we were leaving, an outsize violet bee buzzed past us heading for a bed of snapdragons and roses. This was a carpenter bee, the largest species in Europe, which rarely stings despite its ferocious appearance according to my insect book. Back near the campsite, a male stag beetle rose into the air, looking far too big and ungainly to fly anywhere. Bob followed it, but I could see a bright red sunset and was determined to photograph that. Tuesday morning we started out on a path alongside the 15th century fishponds just south of Lednice. At the eastern end of the fishpond near the campsite is the Temple of Apollo — a picturesque structure built in Its roof offers a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside. The front of the Classicist temple and its apse are decorated with figures from ancient mythology. We did not go for a closer look at it. There are several ponds, vast expanses of shallow water, with herons only knee-deep in the middle. Virtually all of the area was designated a nature conservation area, except for the eastern part of the first pond which was a recreation area. We found plenty to occupy ourselves with. Dragonflies such as the broad-bodied chaser, black-tailed skimmer, and emperor. A large metallic beetle that almost flew into my ear. And a large tree whose hollow centre had been stuffed full of acorns before it had been felled. We had intended walking the first causeway across the lakes to Lednice for lunch, but were stopped by some strange calls. I remembered these calls from ten years ago — they could be either the midwife toad, or a scops owl, and many birdwatchers had recorded the owls and later discovered the callers were actually the toads. We continued along the footpath and found the sounds coming from the water, so they were obviously the toads. Further along there was a small pond alongside the main fishpond. We were able to watch the frogs as they peered over the duckweed, inflating the airsacs as the sides of their mouths, and issuing a variety of croaks. Small frogs with higher pitch voices kept out of the way of big frogs with low voices. Big frogs challenged each other, often disappearing under the surface in a flurry of splashes and duckweed. Where was the midwife toad so called because the male carries the eggs around on his back? The lady came back, and spoke to the only other customer there — an elederly guy who spoke German. He came across and asked what kind of food did we want. Soup and bread? Yes, they could manage that. The soup was like a consomme, with chopped up bread in it — instead of the croutons we had had elsewhere. It was served with several slices of moskva, a moist, heavy sourdough bread. Our plan for the afternoon it was already about 2. The clouds looked ominous, but we ignored them. The route followed first a road, then an un-maintained track. The sun was now out in full force, and the remnants of tarmac stuck our shoes to the road if we stopped still long enough. And we did stop. First to watch hares, then marbled white butterflies, and then we arrived at the obelisk where the map indicated storks. This slim obelisk was built in of sandstone blocks. It is currently surrounded by scaffolding and presumably under repair. White storks used to be common across much of Europe, and every village had at least one multistorey nest on some prominent building. But storks declined as pesticides used on crops took away their food supply. They were still supposed to be plentiful in southern and eastern Europe, and although we had seen only a couple of birds flying high overhead, we were surprised not to have seen a nest by now. There was none to be seen at the obelisk, and we continued further along the trail. Biting insects were now much in evidence, and we dosed ourselves liberally with repellent. Then Bob saw a black kite circling overhead, no, there were two. Hang on a minute, the second one was a red kite! They appeared to be circling each other as if they were paired up, but eventually split off in different directions. The track followed the boundary of a nature reserve, according to the map, and here we found river warblers and nightingales in full song. In Britain they are scarce, and skulking. We continued along the route, got caught in a heavy rain-shower, saw roe deer and white-legged damselflies, stopped at another pond where there were marsh warblers and great reed warblers, and things were generally going along fine. We crossed the Dyje river on one of the many hydro-electric dams, and started along a track for Lednice. It was now gone 6pm, and Bob, looking at the map, suggested that we take a more direct path back to the village, rather than follow the waymarked route. This track went through woodland with a symbol on the map for wild boar. We took it as a good omen. There were more nightingales and river and icterine warblers, greater and middle spotted woodpeckers, and a wryneck. Then the path got rather wet and muddy and was littered with tracks of wild boar and deer. Small frogs hopped out of way. Then we had a choice of two paths not shown on the map and we must have chosen the wrong one for it petered out to nothing after a mile or so. We returned, and tried the other track, which also petered out after a mile or so. The mosquitos and other biting bugs were now hard at work, despite the insect repellent. Bob was trying to find a way straight though the woodland where it looked like the path ought to be. It was by now getting somewhat gloomy, and I persuaded him that, rumbling stomach or not, we ought to go back to where we had turned off the marked path. This turned out to be the most expensive place we ate at, and I was surprised to find I had run out of money — we just about scraped enough together to pay for the meal. Wednesday morning Bob was suffering from the long walk, and a large blister. Although this trip was shorter that the one on Monday, it cost us fifteen times as much! We found a bookshop and bought a book which we hoped would enable us to identify a few local flowers, even though it was in Czech. After our usual lunch of soup, sausage and bread, we got the bus to Milovice, which is a village about two miles beyond Lednice. From here we planned to walk over the dam at the end of a large reservoir, and then follow the levee back to Lednice. The Dyje river has been considerably straightened here, and the levees protecting the arable crops are often several hundred yards from the main channel. This has meant that some of the old river meanders are within the floodplain area, and are left to go wild, being surrounded by trees. The old meanders are popular with fishermen, and the trees are popular with birds. There was nothing new along the levee — more nightingales and other songbirds — but it was an easy short walk back to the hamlet of Bulhary where we could get the bus back to Lednice. Somehow we managed to time it exactly right — as we walked up to the bus stop, so the bus came along the road. We have never been very good at buying souvenirs of any place we have visited, but decided that we might make an exception here. In one part of the old Liechtenstein residence we had seen a craft shop where, so far as we could make out, at least some of the basketwork and pottery items were made on the premises. After some deliberation, Bob bought a mug each for Michael and Jennifer, and we got some raffia mats, a fruit basket, and a couple of pottery ravens for ourselves. Fortunately the Kormoran cafe next to the campsite was open. This building was little more than a large hut, and the patio area had what appeared to be a parachute for a roof. Inside the proprietor was watching television, there being no customers yet to worry about. Could we eat there? We ordered drinks, and asked what food he had. What kind? Not goulash, he struggled for the words in English or German, and finally disappeared into the kitchen. He returned with a packet, the title in German and Czech stating that it was home style vegetable soup. We had to laugh — so much for traditional food! He went off to make the soup, which must have taken a half hour or so. Students staying at the campsite came in and ordered drinks. Eventually he brought out a plate of bread rolls, and dishes for the soup. Another few minutes and he brought out the soup in two mugs, and tipped a mugful into each dish. We finished the soup and asked what else was on the menu — the list on the wall seemed to be for drinks only. Yes, he had sausage, and went and cooked some. The sausage eventually arrived, long and thin, with the skin neatly cut at 1-inch 2cm intervals, together with a plate of sourdough bread. Afterwards we had a glass of grog. We watched the first half of the soccer match, and then asked for the bill. I was surprised how little it was, and he added it up again, explaining what each amount was for. Then I pointed out he had forgotten to add the grog! For our last full day Thursday , we had decided to visit a rocky limestone outcrop that we had sometimes seen in the distance. We got the bus from the campsite to Milovice, and hiked the two miles to the village of Pavlov. The nicest thing about this hike was that, despite going through an area of arable crops and vineyards, there were numerous skylarks singing, flocks of finches raiding the half ripe crops, and marsh warblers singing from odd damp corners. In Britain if you hike through arable areas, you might find the odd skylark if you are very lucky, you might find a few other small birds if you can find a few trees, but marsh warblers are extinct except in one very small area where they are quite scarce! In Pavlov we found quiet cafe for an early lunch it was trying to rain, so the shelter was welcome too , and then started on the footpath up the limestone bluff. It was like a blackcap but not rich enough. It was quiet like a garden warbler the usual confusion species with blackcap but only sang in short phrases — the garden warbler chunters away for several minutes at a stretch. We located two birds in some tall bushes about 20 yards away, and after a few minutes, Bob identified them as barred warblers. They were completely new to me, though Bob has seen them on migration as occasionally a few manage to migrate through Britain on their way south for the winter. The tops might be treeless, but the lower slopes are densely forested, with oaks, lime, horse-chestnut and other species. It was the only place we heard willow warbler singing, though many other places looked suitable for them. The grassland areas at the top were becoming overgrown, and it seems that ibex a kind of wild goat had been introduced to eat the excess vegetation. A ruined castle stands on top of the bluff, with magnificent views of the surrounding countryside. The view over the reservoirs included a tree laden with cormorants, an island with a colony of common terns and black-headed gulls, and another with a church left stranded when the area was flooded. Looking back towards Lednice there were vineyards and cereal fields, and another forested area. The position of Lednice itself was given away by the minaret rising above the trees. Our time on the bluff was limited because we wanted to catch the last bus back to Lednice, so we hurried along the footpath on the east side of the bluff, and were admiring the limestone formations at the south end when the rains came. It bucketed down for a few minutes, then eased off, then more rain, then it eased off and eventually stopped completely. By the time we got back to the castle the sun was out. We stopped for a drink and ice cream in Pavlov, and hurried along the road back to Milovice, with about 20 minutes to spare. That evening we ate at the Kormoran cafe again. The proprietor apologised that he only had the one type of soup, but he did have a different sausage — it was shorted and fatter than the previous one! We took things easy on Friday morning, eventually getting everything packed away, and ourselves out to the bus stop in time for the bus to Breclav. We still had some Czech money, so we had lunch. This time we tried what was supposed to be the standard Czech fast food booth at least it was until MacDonalds moved into the larger cities. Perhaps surprisingly for a town full of tourists on the Austrian border, the person in the booth did not speak any German. For the hotdog, she stuck a white bread roll on some peculiar machine, which warmed it and made a hole through the centre, then she squirted mustard into the hole, and shoved in a rather dubious-looking hotdog. The problem comes when you try eating it — the mustard squirts out all over the place. This was the worst Czech meal that we had. Our train arrived in Vienna in the late afternoon. It was hot again, and we dumped our luggage in a locker and went in search of cool shade. After walking around the city park for a couple of hours, we got a meal at a snack bar. It was sausage and bread again, but the price. We now paid ten times as much as we had been paying in Czech Republic, and it was quite a shock to the system. Our bus was late arriving at the bus station, and full of Slovak students travelling to England to work as au pairs. We had the last seats, and the bus did not stop, except for the two scheduled rest stops, until we reached the English Channel. After the first rest stop the Austrian customs people got on the bus first to do a cursory search for contraband tobacco products people tried to sleep. One of the girls from the seat behind us decided to get her sleeping bag out and sleep in the aisle. This is not normally allowed, because it is dangerous for anyone wanting to get to the toilet. I had some difficulty negotiating bodies and bags in the middle of the night. Another girl somehow managed to get herself under the back seat so she could stretch out and sleep. We arrived at the Channel considerably earlier than scheduled, and were disappointed to find we were going through the tunnel. Bob was disgusted — once was enough for him. But first there was the duty free shop we got a couple of bottles of wine, and Bob bought lots of Toblerone chocolate — I hate the stuff , then French customs putting all our luggage through the x-ray machines, and then British Immigration Control. This last was something of a farce. Usually you get two lanes, one for European nationals, the other for outsiders. This building had one lane for everybody, and somehow we were at the end of the queue — having been at the back of the bus. At first only one kiosk was open, but after a while two more officials came out and opened up another two. It still took two hours til they got to us. We complained bitterly, the officials sympathised, and said we should have spoken up and would have been allowed straight through. Their union was campaigning for more staff, but until that happened, they had to do things as best they could. As a consolation, they offered us a drink from a machine — better than nothing, and at least we could sit down for a few minutes while they dealt with the last few Slovaks. Those who spoke a bit more English translated for the others where necessary. The officials had said it was hell when there were several buses coming through together — we should count ourselves lucky! The journey through the tunnel was boring, and although we got out of the bus, there was nowhere to walk around or get refreshments. Despite the time at immigration, we still arrived in London an hour early — in time to get an earlier train home. My APEX ticket could only be used on the train at the designated time. However, Bob, who had been disappointed at not getting the cheaper APEX ticket, could use his standard return ticket on any train. I decided to pay up and get home early. Narberth was closer to home than Pembroke, it had a taxi service so does Pembroke and a Chinese takeaway so does Pembroke and it had a supermarket that stayed open late so we could buy bread and milk the supermarket in Pembroke closes at 6pm. But we could neither of us remember where the station was in relation to the town. In fact, it was nearly a mile out of town, and with no phonebox to call the taxi. We walked, glad of the opportunity to stretch our legs as we were both suffering with swollen ankles after 30 hours in a sitting position. The journey from Landshipping to Luhacovice. The conference and other notes. Exploring the Luhacovice area. Exploring Lednice area. Czech Republic really does look lovely, it is on our agenda for one of these fine days. I love your heron image, just beautiful. Although what a long coach journey home. Wonderful memories to take with you though. Like Like. Thanks for reading and commenting. Gosh you really know your birds and other animals. I hope we can find some more interesting food in our travels there shortly. And, of course, if you are out in the sticks and on a really tight budget as we were at that time, then your options are even more limited. But it is all good fun! Thank you for reading and commenting. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Search for: Search. Date: June 17, Author: Annie 4 Comments. The Lednice Fishponds and the Flood Plain of the Lower Dyje River are also Ramsar Sites Lednice held the summer residence of the Liechtenstein family, one of the most powerful landowners in Czechoslovakia, until when nearly all the ethnic Germans who lived in the country were forced to leave. Coenonympha glycerion — the Chestnut Heath Butterfly Our plan for the afternoon it was already about 2. 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Czech Republic – Lednice in June

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