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The name was first used by the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam, popularly known as the Tamil Tigers, in the early s when they were in control of Jaffna. The moniker has stuck, and the delicacy is a hit among the tens of thousands of visitors who have begun to stream into the peninsula since it opened to public traffic in January. Most of the tourists are from the majority Sinhala community living in the south of the island, curious to visit a place that has been cut off from most of the nation for nearly 25 years. The Tigers, on the other hand, are nowhere in sight. The war, which cost the country more than 70, lives, came to an end last year, when the Tigers were destroyed by the Sri Lankan forces. The final deadly blow was delivered on May 18, , on a narrow beach stretch on the northeastern Mulaithivu coast, when the top Tiger leadership, including its once elusive leader, Velupillai Prabhakaran, was killed by the army. The reopening of the old A9 highway — the only road connecting the Jaffna peninsula to the rest of the island — has quickly helped the Tamil and Sinhala communities, largely kept apart by years of war, come together. Thomas Soundranayagam, the Catholic bishop of Jaffna who has lived here since Now, after years of isolation, Jaffna is changing with each new visitor. The thousands of tired travelers from the south, some of whom camp out within the bombed-out shell of what was once the magnificent Jaffna railway station, are just the outward manifestation. Prices of goods have come down drastically. The opening of the road and easing of restrictions on activities like fishing around the peninsula could generate vital income. Because fertilizer and other agriculture material are freely available, farming has also picked up. For most domestic tourists, visiting Jaffna is like entering another dimension. Military officers stationed nearby explain that the Tigers — for reasons known only to them — placed explosives around the base of the tower and set them off before retreating. The more adventurous walk into the empty shell, where names have been scribbled on the inner walls. A little farther north, crowds gather at the southern end of Elephantpass, the narrow causeway that connects the peninsula with the rest of the island, to see another legendary relic of the war, a bulldozer with armor plating and gaping holes caused by explosions. In , the Tigers launched a massive attack on the army base here, using the improvised bulldozer to ram the army fortifications and breach them. They almost succeeded, but the vehicle wasstopped in its tracks by the Sri Lankan soldier Hasalaka Gamini, who climbed onto it and lobbed a grenade inside. He was shot dead soon afterward. They were used by top Tiger officials when they moved close to the front lines. It, too, was a victim of thewar. For year-old Senna Pakiavathy, life in Jaffna now seems too good to be true. She was born in central Sri Lanka but moved to the north in the s, when ethnic tension grew between the Tamils and the Sinhalese. Her wrinkled face is a tale of what she has endured in the past 30 years. One of her sons, recruited to fight for the Tigers when he was 17, was killed in battle. Another son lost his leg in battle, and a third, who she says was also taken forcibly by the Tigers, was injured too. Her family fled for their lives from Puliyankulam, a village that lies on the A9, in early , when fighting became too intense. She returned a year later to find that her house was a pile of bricks. Her husband has begun farming again, and the family runs a small tea shop on the side of the A9. The U. Reconstruction has yet to begin. It will likely start after the April 8 general election, when there is a more stable government in power with a five-year mandate. President Mahinda Rajapaksa staved off a challenge by his former army commander Sarath Fonseka in the January presidential election and is expected to lead his UPFA coalition to victory as well. But there is hardly any election fever in Jaffna, except for the occasional campaign vehicle and posters of candidates. Soundranayagam says the city is beginning to enjoy the calm after nearly 30 years of nonstop fighting. The only silence was the silence of the curfew. It is a quiet that residents and tourists alike can rejoice in — and should hope to continue indefinitely. See the Cartoons of the Week. Contact us at letters time. Join Us. Customer Care. Reach Out. Connect with Us. Amantha Perera. Is Adrenal Fatigue Real? Home U. All Rights Reserved. TIME may receive compensation for some links to products and services on this website. Offers may be subject to change without notice.

Things to do in Jaffna, Sri Lanka's little-explored northern city

Jaffna buy blow

The roads that lead from central Sri Lanka to Jaffna are worth the journey alone. From Dambulla, or the majestic and ancient cities of Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura, the landscape slowly shifts from bustling built-up towns to vast stretches of empty land where a great expanse of cloudless sky takes centre stage. Unlike the rest of the country, the highways in this region are pretty empty for the most part — at least of cars and tuk-tuks — instead great herds of zebu cattle and curious-looking long-eared goats rule the roads. The city itself overflows with residents of all ages riding gorgeous vintage bicycles, and while these street scenes are nostalgia-inducing for visiting tourists, to romanticise them would be a mistake, since the popularity of bicycles was born from necessity due to fuel shortages during the region's war-torn years. Around town, other battle scars remain — in the dilapidated, abandoned and bullet hole-ridden buildings, or in the housing project seafront high-rises that look awkwardly out of place next to the quaint single-story homes of fishermen. In the city centre, huge painted wooden wagons adorned with candy-coloured patterns — exactly like the kind you find in southern India — patiently wait to be unloaded while begging to be photographed. The harbour itself is filled with hundreds of wooden fishing boats painted in faded-out hues of blue, pink and orange, while fishermen untangle decades-old fishing nets on the hot sand nearby. When the heat of the day dies down, local youngsters take to this walkway to fly charming homemade kites, delighting in the cool ocean breeze as it seemingly whips the delicate-looking creations miles and miles up into the sky. Everyone who visits Jaffna — tourists and locals alike — knows to make a beeline for this retro ice cream hall close to the historic Nallur Hindu temple. With a large indoor seating area and plenty of terrace tables, the atmosphere at Rio Ice Cream positively vibrates with raucous excitement as families and friends gather to indulge in paper pots of homemade ice cream, candy-coloured shakes and sundaes. This creamy, cooling pale pink shake, concocted from rose syrup, milk, jelly, fruits and basil seeds, is the perfect tonic on a balmy Jaffna day. This iconic temple, dedicated to Lord Muruga god of the Tamil people and son of Lord Shiva is one of the most impressive structures in the area, existing in one form or another since AD although it was previously situated on another site. The ornately carved golden gopuram is the main focal point, yet inside, the temple is equally impressive, with shrines to Ganesh and other gods interspersed with interesting brasswork and thought-provoking murals. To enter, men must remove their tops and women must have their knees and shoulders covered — sarongs are available at the entrance gate. Puja ceremonial worship takes place seven times per day and is a fascinating time to visit — check with your hotel for the correct timings. Due to its proximity to the Nallur temple and its selection of supremely moreish South Indian dishes, Lavins is always bustling with temple worshippers and holidaying Sri Lankans. The simple cafe-style joint offers an epic selection of dosas, including a very tasty masala chili and onion version, as well as its famed Lavin dosa filled with vegetables and Jaffna spices. The masala chai is also very good, as is the ginger and cardamom-infused coffee. As one of the only luxury hotels in the city, Jetwing Jaffna offers 55 rooms spread over seven floors, some with sea views. Around 12km from Point Pedro on the road to Manalkadu village sit the ruins of the Manalkadu Dutch Church, now half buried in dunes. Outstanding home-cooked Jaffna dishes are whipped up effortlessly at Mahesa Bhawan , a bright white luxury villa comprising four individually designed bedrooms on 3rd Cross Street. With a totally different flavour profile to the curry powder used throughout the rest of the country, Jaffna curry powder is incredibly aromatic, meaning it works especially well when paired with mutton or crab. Jetwing Jaffna Courtesy Jetwing.

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