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Thank you for visiting nature. You are using a browser version with limited support for CSS. To obtain the best experience, we recommend you use a more up to date browser or turn off compatibility mode in Internet Explorer. In the meantime, to ensure continued support, we are displaying the site without styles and JavaScript. The Agulhas Current AC is the strongest western boundary current in the Southern Hemisphere and is key for weather and climate patterns, both regionally and globally. Its heat transfer into both the midlatitude South Indian Ocean and South Atlantic is of global significance. A new composite coral record Ifaty and Tulear massive Porites corals , is linked to historical AC sea surface temperature SST instrumental data, showing robust correlations. The composite coral SST data start in and comprise years more than the AC instrumental record. Numerical modelling exhibits that this new coral derived SST record is representative for the wider core region of the AC. AC SSTs variabilities show distinct cooling through the Little Ice Age and warming during the late 18 th , 19th and 20th century, with significant decadal variability superimposed. The greater Agulhas Current AC system near the southern tip of Africa is a key component in the global climate system through its role in inter-ocean heat and salt transport, thereby influencing the Atlantic meridional overturning circulation 1 , 2 , 3 hereafter AMOC. Modeling experiments suggest that the increased export of AC waters into the Atlantic Ocean, through the so-called Agulhas leakage, results in an enhanced AMOC albeit with a lag of 15—30 years 4 , 5 , 6 , 7. The recent warming is thought to be related to an increase in ocean heat transport in response to an increase in wind stress curl in the southern Indian Ocean trade winds 8 , 9. The AC is the strongest western boundary current in the Southern Hemisphere and releases a lot of heat to the atmosphere throughout the year. Relatively strong winds over the southern AC lead to strong latent heat loss from the surface, while further north off the east coast of South Africa, there is often convective cloud cover over its warm core 10 , 11 , 12 , As a result, under suitable atmospheric conditions, the AC can influence severe weather systems over South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Mozambique such as cut-off lows 14 , thunderstorms 15 and mesoscale convective complexes The AC region is modulated by interannual and decadal climate modes in the Indian and Pacific Ocean, partly through their influence on the circulation in the South Indian Ocean 17 , 18 , 19 , 20 and also through local ocean-atmosphere interactions driven by these modes 17 , 21 , 22 , This strong interannual and decadal variability may be superimposed on the long-term trend in AC SST that could partly be related to changes in the subtropical Indian Ocean gyre strength on these time scales 24 , 25 , Historical gridded SST data and reconstructions reveal that the southern Mozambique Channel MC , one of the source regions of the AC, has also experienced one of the highest rates in ocean warming across the southern Indian Ocean since A single year long coral geochemical proxy record from Ifaty reef off southwestern Madagascar in the southern MC also revealed an increase in SST after the 's These single core observations, however, are limited and may not represent the wider southern MC or the AC core region as yet. The Ifaty coral core location yellow dot and the region of dense SST observations rectangular box for the Agulhas Current are indicated. Here, we present a new three-core coral composite oxygen isotope record from the Ifaty and Tulear coral reefs off SW Madagascar, which covers SST variability for the past years — Finally, we aim to infer cross-ocean relationships in the Southern Hemisphere using SST records, elucidating the pivotal role of the AC region at the cross roads between the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. Correlations are plotted at maximum lag, with lag values shown as contours. Figure 2d shows that The new coral composite comprises three corals from to , two from onwards and a single coral covering to Fig. The coral proxy data and measurement procedures are described in detail in the Methods. In brief, all proxy records were centered by removing the — mean. This has the advantage that our coral temperature reconstruction does not depend on linear regression with instrumental SST data, which has rather large errors The composite chronology extends from to Fig. All SST anomalies computed relative to the to period. The composite SST record indicates strong multidecadal variability throughout the years. The coolest period in SW Madagascar and the AC core region on record pre is observed between and and includes the Late Maunder Minimum — , the coolest period during the Little Ice Age. The cool period shows strong interannual variability. The warmest periods on record pre for both SW Madagascar and the AC core region are observed between —, to and to The warming rate between and was rapid at 0. The warm period between to is also very prominent for both SW Madagascar and the AC core region. This period is punctuated by strong interannual warm anomalies with cooler years in between. Similarly strong interannual variability is also observed for the to warm period. We use the period since because SST products are less reliable prior to that date. We found a steady warming in the coral composite SST record since 1. The magnitude of the warming inferred from the corals is 0. We speculate that much of the observed spread in proxy-SST relationships reflects statistical uncertainties since the error of the OLS regression obtained using the mean slopes equals the spread of the warming rates estimates using the upper and lower limits of proxy-SST relationships. The warming trend after the mid's in the coral composite record agrees substantially better with instrumental SST than the previously published Ifaty-4 coral record alone The long-term warming rates indicated by the SST products for the Ifaty-Tulear region since clearly differ, yet agree on the strong post warming. The warming rates per decade since are 0. The absolute warming between to ranges between 0. This is most probably due to the sparse to non-existent observations for the Ifaty-Tulear region Fig. Interannual warm peaks are observed during the 20th century, the most prominent between — and the late 's to early 's. Our new SST reconstructions also show excellent correlation with an annual mean South African air temperature reconstruction AT from a stalagmite record 36 over the entire year period Fig. Both, the coral composite SST and stalagmite AT indicate the period between to as the coolest on record. In addition, both records indicate relatively high temperatures during the late 18th and 19th century, a cool period in the early 20th century followed by a warming towards the end of the 20th century. Note the gap in the stalagmite record between and Both SST and air temperature anomalies computed relative to the to period. To assess the correlations of the coral composite with global SST on decadal time scales, we applied a Loess low-pass filter with a cutoff at 8 years. Positive correlations also emerge off the eastern coast of South America and the sub tropical Atlantic. Other teleconnected regions with positive correlations are the northern Indian Ocean, the western and northeastern Pacific. Tables S4 to S6 and Fig. This pattern is related to ENSO. PC2 is not correlated with the coral composite when the entire period from to is considered. This finding is consitent with Zinke et al. EOF3 comprises the well-known subtropical dipole modes that can be found across all southern ocean basins, especially in austral summer. Table S7 and Fig. This finding is consistent with Zinke et al. Based on this strong relationship, we are able to resolve historical SST variability and long-term changes in the southern MC and the AC core region back to We observed strong multidecadal to centennial-scale oscillations in SST over the past years in the coral composite SST and since at least in three SST datasets. We confirmed the period between and as the coolest period on record, which suggests that transport of warm water from the tropical Indian Ocean towards the AC was diminished at this time. We find warm excursions between and , the late 19th century and post where warm water transport to the AC was at its peak. The current warming after to is not unprecedented since similar warming rates were observed from to following peak cooling during the Late Maunder Minimum during the Little Ice Age. Yet, instrumental SST beyond show that the warming of the past 20 years was exceptional in the context of the past years 8 Figs. These periods stand out as particularly warm decades in our new reconstruction. Nevertheless, the three instrumental SST datasets agree with the coral composite SST in showing a warm period with strong interannual oscillations pre In addition, the recently published air temperature reconstruction for southern Africa from a stalagmite record 36 agrees with the coral composite in showing higher temperatures in the region during the late 18th and 19th century Fig. A rainfall reconstruction for southern Africa 37 revealed that the 19th century was wetter than the 20th century which could be partly related to relatively warm SST in the AC region during the early and late 19th century observed in our SST reconstruction. Our reconstruction is in concert with typical spatial teleconnection pattern of the AC region SST with global SST on interannual and decadal time scales. Yet, we found significant correlations with the western and northeastern Pacific SST. The strongest relationship was found with the southern Indian Ocean and off the east coast of South America. The strong correlations with the southern Indian Ocean are found along the AC return flow. The teleconnections with the South Atlantic are found along the advective pathways of the Agulhas leakage 7 , A recent study of mid-latitude islands across the southern part of all ocean basins also revealed that the Agulhas system is likely a dominant driver of climate variability for the mid- to high latitude Indian Ocean islands The recent spatial warming trend pattern in the southern Indian Ocean is characterised by two warming centers, one in the southwestern and the other in the southeastern Indian Ocean Fig. Thus, the two centers of warming most possibly underwent similar multidecadal SST changes and the recent pattern is part of this natural multidecadal variability. The mechanism driving this multidecadal variability might be related to large-scale wind forcing across the southern Indian and Atlantic Ocean 17 , Lee et al. The warming in the South Atlantic after was probably reinforced by a warm Agulhas leakage and its westward and northward transport into the Atlantic. Similar warming of the South Atlantic should have occurred during the late 18th and 19th century according to our AC core region SST reconstruction. This assumption needs to be tested with coupled atmosphere-ocean models. In conclusion, our new coral composite SST record for the Agulhas Current system showed strong multidecadal SST variability in this globally important ocean current and that the warming over the last three decades is not unprecedented in the context of the multi-centennial record. Coral cores from massive Porites sp. The Ifaty and Tulear coral reef sites are described in detail in Zinke et al. Core Ifaty-4 4. The average growth rate of core Ifaty-4 was 0. Then, slabs were rinsed several times with demineralized water and dried with compressed air. The slabs were X-rayed to reveal annual density banding. A high resolution profile for stable isotope analysis on core Ifaty-4 was drilled using a computer-controlled drilling device along the growth axis as observed in X-ray-radiograph-positive prints Cores Ifaty-1 and Tular-3 were sampled at annual resolution along the major growth axis following the density pattern from summer to summer in any given year established from X-ray-radiograph-positive prints. We used the Ifaty-4 core as our best dated reference time series to ensure that the yearly sampled chronologies of Ifaty-1 and Tulear-3 aligned well. The three proxy records were first centered by removing the — mean. A composite annually resolved coral temperature record was then constructed by 1 converting each proxy record to temperature units, 2 calculating the arithmetic mean of the coral SST records from each site and 3 averaging the mean records from both sites. This resulted in a time series of relative SST changes at annual resolution against the to mean. We estimated the uncertainties of the coral composite SST reconstruction following the method of Nurhati et al. The errors are displayed in Figure 3 as grey shaded envelopes for each individual year. Peeters, F. Vigorous exchange between the Indian and Atlantic oceans at the end of the past five glacial periods. Nature , — Beal, L. On the role of the Agulhas system in ocean circulation and climate. Biastoch, A. Increase in Agulhas leakage due to poleward shift of the Southern Hemisphere westerlies. Weijer, W. Ruijter, W. Response of the Atlantic overturning circulation to South Atlantic sources of buoyancy. Change 34, — Agulhas leakage dynamics affects decadal variability in Atlantic overturning. Haarsma, R. Impacts of interruption of the Agulhas leakage on the tropical Atlantic in coupled atmosphere-ocean simulations. Advective time scales and pathways of Agulhas leakage. Rouault, M. Warming in the Agulhas system since the 's. Backeberg, B. Impact of intensified Indian Ocean winds on mesoscale variability in the Agulhas system. Nature Climate Change 2, — Jury, M. Tropical monsoons around Africa: Stability of El Nino-Southern Oscillation associations and links with continental climate. Lee-Thorp, J. Rapid climate shifts in the southern African interior throughout the mid to late Holocene. Air-sea exchange over an Agulhas eddy at the subtropical convergence. Global Atmos. Google Scholar. Reason, C. Evidence for the influence of the Agulhas current on regional atmospheric circulation patterns. Climate 14, — Singleton, A. Reviews , — Forecasting 17, — Blamey, R. Numerical simulation of a mesoscale convective system over the east coast of South Africa. Tellus A 61, 17—34 Tellus A 52, — Sensitivity of the southern African circulation to dipole sea-surface temparature patterns in the south Indian Ocean. Article Google Scholar. Fauchereau, N. Sea-surface temperature co-variability in the southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans and its connections with the atmospheric circulation in the southern hemisphere. Zinke, J. ENSO and Indian Ocean subtropical dipole variability is recorded in a coral record off southwest Madagascar for the period Earth Planet. Behera, S. Hermes, J. Annual cycle of the South Indian Ocean Seychelles-Chagos thermocline ridge in a regional ocean model. Fetter, A. Atmospheric driving forces for the Agulhas Current in the subtropics. Lee, T. Decadal phase change in large-scale sea level and winds in the Indo-Pacific region at the end of the 20th century. ADS Google Scholar. Nidheesh, A. Decadal and long-term sea level variability in the tropical Indo-Pacific Ocean. Crueger, T. Patterns of Pacific decadal variability recorded by Indian Ocean corals. Earth Sci. McClanahan, T. Recent seawater temperature histories, status and predictions for Madagascar's coral reefs. Loveday, B. Decoupling of the Agulhas Current from the Agulhas Leakage. Juillet-Leclerc, A. A calibration of the oxygen isotope paleothermometer of coral aragonite from Porites. Nurhati, I. Climate 24, — Rayner, N. Global analyses of sea surface temperature, sea ice and night marine air temperature since the late nineteenth century. Kennedy, J. Reassessing biases and other uncertainties in sea-surface temperature observations since part 2: biases and homogenisation. Smith, T. Improvements to NOAA's historical merged land—ocean surface temperature analysis — Climate 21, — Woodruff, S. Sundqvist, H. Evidence of a large cooling between and AD in southern Africa. Neukom, R. Multi-proxy summer and winter precipitation reconstruction for southern Africa over the last years. Lee, S. What caused the significant increase in Atlantic Ocean heat content since the midth century? Richard, Y. Temperature chnages in the mid- and high-latitudes of the Southern Hemisphere. Durgadoo, J. Agulhas leakage predominantly responds to the Southern Hemisphere westerlies. Searching for decadal variations in ENSO precipitation teleconnections. Bruggemann, H. Social-ecological problems forcing unprecedented change on the latitudinal margins of coral reefs: the case of southwest Madagascar. Carton James, A. Download references. You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar. All authors helped with the interpretation of the data and writing the manuscript. Reprints and permissions. Madagascar corals track sea surface temperature variability in the Agulhas Current core region over the past years. Sci Rep 4 , Download citation. Received : 10 December Accepted : 13 February Published : 18 March Anyone you share the following link with will be able to read this content:. Sorry, a shareable link is not currently available for this article. Provided by the Springer Nature SharedIt content-sharing initiative. Sign up for the Nature Briefing newsletter — what matters in science, free to your inbox daily. Skip to main content Thank you for visiting nature. Download PDF. Subjects Palaeoclimate Physical oceanography. Abstract The Agulhas Current AC is the strongest western boundary current in the Southern Hemisphere and is key for weather and climate patterns, both regionally and globally. Modern and sub-fossil corals suggest reduced temperature variability in the eastern pole of the Indian Ocean Dipole during the medieval climate anomaly Article Open access 22 July Introduction The greater Agulhas Current AC system near the southern tip of Africa is a key component in the global climate system through its role in inter-ocean heat and salt transport, thereby influencing the Atlantic meridional overturning circulation 1 , 2 , 3 hereafter AMOC. Figure 1. Surface ocean connectivity between southwest Madagascar and the Agulhas Current. Full size image. Figure 2. Figure 3. Sea surface temperature reconstruction for the Agulhas Current region. Correlations computed for maximum number of years in each dataset taking into account the degrees of freedom for each correlation pair. Figure 4. Reconstructions for sea surface and air temperature for the Agulhas Current and South Africa. Figure 5. Global teleconnections of Agulhas Current region sea surface temperature. Methods Coral core collection and sampling Coral cores from massive Porites sp. References Peeters, F. Google Scholar Reason, C. Article Google Scholar Fauchereau, N. Article Google Scholar Zinke, J. Article Google Scholar Hermes, J. Article Google Scholar Kennedy, J. Article Google Scholar Sundqvist, H. Article Google Scholar Lee, S. Article Google Scholar Durgadoo, J. Kroon Authors J. Zinke View author publications. View author publications. Ethics declarations Competing interests The authors declare no competing financial interests. Electronic supplementary material. Supplementary Information Supplementary Information. About this article Cite this article Zinke, J. Copy to clipboard. This article is cited by On the importance of the Mozambique Channel for the climate of southeastern Africa D. Mawren R. Blamey C. Reason Climate Dynamics Rainfall variability in southeast and west-central Africa during the Little Ice Age: do documentary and proxy records agree? Matthew J. Hannaford Kristen K. Publish with us For authors Language editing services Submit manuscript. Search Search articles by subject, keyword or author. Show results from All journals This journal. Advanced search. Close banner Close. Email address Sign up. Get the most important science stories of the day, free in your inbox. Sign up for Nature Briefing.

Madagascar - 'Ifaty'

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By janzin December 29, in Madagascar. This report has been difficult to start due to a few reasons. First of all, the very recent and comprehensive report by Atdahl covered more areas than we visited, and saw many things we didn't. Also, our trip was very different than most reported on here, because we went with an organized group birding tour. So much of it might not apply to the usual independent traveler here. TonyQ 7 posts. Galago 5 posts. December 29, We booked an additional pre-trip night in Tana so as to be sure not to miss anything on the first day. Turned out, everyone else did as well some of our party arrived two days before. We traveled De. Our first official outing was to be to a lake within the city of Antananarivo Tana , called Parc Tsarasaotra, or sometimes just Lac Alarobia, which is the name of the lake inside this small park. A word about the group and the guide. We actually didn't have any issues with the 8 folks in the group. All were nice people, personable, no one obnoxious, no one caused trouble All were Americans with varying levels of birding ability And unfortunately, our guide really catered to those three twitchers while often--literally--leaving the rest of us behind in the dust. Or in the mud, as it were. The guide was very 'type A' and intent on finding the endemics, get the bird, run run run to the next. The trip was advertised as being 'moderately paced' but we found it nothing of the sort. We physically couldn't keep up with the pace, and once when I said to the guide, why are you running, he said 'I'm not running, this is a moderate pace' which wasn't helpful. Because of this we really felt like we missed a lot, especially the reptiles and plants. The important thing to note is that originally we had two nights in Tulear, and three internal flights. But, as we learned on arrival, the direct flight from Tulear to Fort Dauphin was no more. Now we had to lose a night in Tulear, return to Tana, spend another night in Tana, before heading to Fort Dauphin. Three flights became four. Here's a map of our route. Thankfully, all of these changes were handled expertly and we didn't have to think about any of it. This also extended to all our later delays and check-ins at the airports, hotels, etc. We never had to even talk to an agent at the airport, except security. So this was definitely a plus and Rockjumper handled everything without fuss. It turned out these two gentlemen, John and Jerry, were two of the very serious twitchers, but they were the folks we got along best with on the trip. One of them worked in forestry, and was very into plants which was very good for my spouse, as he's also very into plants, especially orchids. We arrived tired, but without incident, around midnight or so and checked into the very pleasant Relais de Plateaux Hotel. Our first outing with the group was to be post lunch on our first day, so we had a leisurely morning to rest. There were lots of birds around the grounds so we entertained ourselves with some photography. Since we were back at this same hotel four times! I am going to aggregate all the birds I photographed there into this one post. African Stonechats were nesting on the premises. Other birds seen around the hotel were Madagascar Wagtails but I have better photos from elsewhere , Madagascar Bee-eater too distant for photos and every night we heard Madagascar Nightjar, but never did see it ourselves there others did. We had a delicious lunch sitting by the pool. I had a tuna burger and here I felt safe enough to eat salad, but no where else. And they had fantastic fries. We found a lot of French influence in the food And almost every place we went had chocolate mousse for dessert! The restaurant had this amazing chocolate tasting platter for dessert and on many of the nights they ran out of it because just about every one in our group ordered it--multiple times! BTW, although we were very careful not to eat raw veggies or salad other than here , we ate plenty of peelable fruit and juices, with no ill effects. Great paypaya, mango, melon, etc. Neither my spouse nor I got ill at all on the trip. A few of our group did get some stomach upsets but we were fortunate, I guess. It may have helped that we were taking Doxycycline as our anti-malarial, which, as an antibiotic, may protect against some of the bugs. Interesting about the guide. I've heard this about some of the specialist birding companies based in the UK and avoided them for that reason because, while I'm a keen bird watcher, I'm not a twitcher and rushing from one tick to another just ain't my cuppa tea. And, anyway, a good guide ensures that everyone has a chance to see the bird in question and doesn't go charging off. Really not impressed by that. It must've been so frustrating, especially when you wanted to see all sorts of critters as well as birds. On the upside, aren't the Mad Fodys just fabulous - that blob of brilliant scarlet zooming around! I don't want to imply that he didn't try to get everyone on the bird--he did. Well, most of the time But it was rush, rush, on to the next. Its just that often we were not in a position to even get to the bird more on that later too. And there's no doubt he was an excellent birder He just wasn't the right guide for us. The park is right in the center of the city and you'd think it couldn't possibly have much wildlife--but you'd be very wrong! Since , this park has been declared a Ramsar site a wetland site designated to be of international importance under the Ramsar Convention , and is the only privately owned Ramsar site in the world. Our Rockjumper guide was actually going to meet us at the park, because he was just arriving on a flight from South Africa and coming to us straight from the airport. So we started out with Guy and another local guide. Most of the birding tours visit this park because it is home to several endemic species, and the best place to find some of them, including the very rare Meller's Duck. We did see this duck, in fact several of them, but only with scope views, so no photos. Our guide of course had a spotting scope. It also hold the endangered Madagascar Pond Heron; again, seen well in the scope but no decent photos as they were on the island in the middle of the lake. We actually visited this park twice once unplanned--more on that later! I just love how Whistling Ducks line up in a row. Some were endemic, like this Madagascar or Malagasy Kingfisher I've noticed that some sources seem to use Madagascar, and some Malagasy, for many of the birds. This was a great place for the Kingfisher as you could get fairly close, and they seemed used to people. And, some chameleons! Our only Oustalet's of the trip. These were actually seen the 2nd time we visited. There were many butterflies and dragonflies too, but very difficult to photograph We saw a few of these on the trip, at least this time we didn't have to walk under it, but only past it. All in all a good first afternoon, at this point we hadn't yet experienced any of the issues we had later. Happy that you are starting your TR janzin. I have been second guessing whether we want to attempt a trip there. It is a few down on the list now for sure. Still lots of neat things to see there. Maybe when you finish your report we will reevaluate. We actually loved Madagascar as a destination and would love to go back someday to see the things we missed and do it at a slower pace. Although, with so many other places we want to go, its probably unlikely we'll get back. All perspectives are useful when thinking of future travel options. The Red Fody is magical, how amazing that is was plentiful in the hotel grounds. Lac Alarobia looks to be teeming with birds. We had a total of birds, and 95 were lifers, but most of the non-lifers were ducks, herons, shorebirds. Almost all of the land birds were endemic or near-endemic found on neighboring islands such as Cormoros. Great start! I wish I had known about that lake, although I doubt I would have had time to visit. Glad your started this report janzin , some lovely photos, as always, to start. It's unfortunate about the guide, I imagine you had tons where you would have liked to stay longer to get photos but had to move on? Thanks Zubbie15 , indeed, that was another of our issues. Not only that, but out of the 8 of us 9 including guide 5 had long-lens cameras so there was lots of jockeying for the best position. Hubby and I usually lost out because we were trailing behind, so by the time we got up to the bird we didn't get a good spot for photos. And then there was the one woman who insisted on shooting videos with her cell phone and was always in the way. Photography conflicts were definitely one of the more ' Frustrating ' aspects as noted in my report title! The drive was to take about five hours, and the plan was to arrive at our lodging in time for lunch. Because we would need 4-wheel drive vehicles once we were in the reserves, we drove in a convoy of three SUV-type cars. I don't remember what they all were, but they seemed in good shape and were comfortable enough. I attempted to take some photos out of the vehicle as we drove, with either my phone or my Fuji XT which I was using for scenery; here are some of the landscape outside of Tana. Rice is the main crop of the country, as well as the primary stable food. So rice paddies were ubiquitous. We did make a couple of short stops along the way to look at birds. At this stop, we found the photogenic Bob Marley Cafe or Epi-bar, whatever that is! They were quite high up, so no photos. We were driving parallel to the river and many people were working notice the brick works again and washing. We also made a pit stop at a gas station which had a very extensive shop, similar to our 's or WaWa here in the USA, with a fairly extensive selection of snacks and sundries, so most of us stocked up on cookies and chocolate to supplement the granola bars we'd brought along. Some folks picked up extra toothpaste etc Unfortunately, we discovered that Diet Coke or Coke Zero or similar is simply unavailable in Madagascar, at least we never found it anywhere, even in the Relais de Plateaux. The less said about the 'bathrooms,' the better. We arrived at our lodging, Feon'ny Ala, in time for lunch. Since I have no photo, here's a link to their site, only in French. The 2nd row wouldn't have as good a view. Rustic but comfortable chalets which overlooked the forest. Lemurs and chameleons on the grounds. Full time electricity and amazingly tons of hot water--in fact they warn you that it is scalding, which it was! It is Chinese-owned, and the restaurant menu reflected that, with a wide range of dishes many of which had a Chinese-influence lots of noodle dishes, soups, etc; but also plenty of western-style dishes including a very good chicken with vanilla sauce, an excellent grilled pork chop, and a spaghetti Bolognese made with zebu, of course which was quite popular with our group. Since we were there for five dinners we appreciated the wide menu variety. And of course One thing I learned fairly early in the trip was NOT to order zebu steak, as it was invariably tough and overdone. The routine here, as well as with some other lodges, was to select your dinner when you returned from your afternoon activity, then go get your shower, rest, whatever This was a very efficient system as there was no waiting around when hungry and tired and seated at the table. It was nice to be able to select whatever we wanted and as many courses as we wanted. Here are a couple of photos which were taken from the balcony of our room not actually on our arrival day. One afternoon, when we had retreated for awhile to our room due to rain, several Blue Vangas appeared in the tree across from our balcony. This was actually the best view we had of them, even though it was raining at the time. One of our group, who wasn't feeling well one day, stayed back at her room and told us that she had a whole troop of Indri come by! So there is lots of wildlife right around the resort. Anyway, after settling in and getting lunch of which I have no memory we headed out for our first trip into the park. A word about the nomenclature of the park. To make matters more confusing, the old name for Analamazaotra is Perinet, which is still also used. I will use that one for this section as its easier to spell. Photography is, as expected, outstanding! The total of birds decent, as compared to some other birding locations, however with the high percentage of endemics, this trip must have increased your lifers count. Birders are tough folks, specially those with only eyes and ears and binoculars and scopes. A small group of like-minded persons is the only group I will ever be part of. Luckily there are many such persons on Safaritalk. As expected your photos are stunning. What an amazing bird the Blue Vanga is, really beautiful. Your itinerary is similar not identical to the one we did around 20 years ago so I will follow with great interest. Beautiful photos Janet, the Vanga is stunning! Sorry to hear you wear not entirely happy with the travel mode you chose for this one, hopefully the next ones will be more to your liking. Thanks Michael, not at all worried about the next few. Our hotel was only about 10 minutes up the road from the entrance to Analamazoatra Reserve, aka Perinet so this was to be our first venture into the forest. No idea why they put a Ring-tailed Lemur on the sign, because they are not found here. We entered through a building which housed some exhibits, but there was no time for stopping The trails here were for the most part well-maintained, some with paving stones, a few steeper but usually with steps. It had rained extensively in prior days so trails were a bit slippery and some muddy but not too bad. We were very fortunate that the rain had stopped at least for now! In addition to David and Guy, here of course we had to have a local park guide. It seemed that in all the parks, Guy knew everyone and hand-picked the guides that he'd worked with before. Of course, as everywhere, David had his 'target birds. Of course the guides knew more or less the exact area he'd be. Although not necessarily the exact tree, they looked around a bit before finding him. He didn't really want to open his eyes. It's photos like this where the Nikon VR really shines There were other birds of course, but here I began to realize just how difficult photography would be on this trip. Narrow trails, dark rainforest, and five other photographers made photography frustrating. We came across this cocoon which the guide told us was the cocoon of the Comet Moth We came upon some Diademed Sifaka, not in a great position for photos. As it turned out, while we did see some again, this was the only photo opportunity I'd have, so I'm including these not-so-stellar shots here. Of course, this park is the major reserve for the Indri--the largest and certainly the most vocal of the lemurs. There are several troops that call this reserve home. On this occasion, we heard them in the distance, but did not see them. However, it was certainly not to be our only opportunity, so we weren't worried. Finally, to end the day here's a House Gecko, taken outside our room, they were common everywhere. BTW, I know that Atdahl has found some of the parks crowded, but we didn't have that experience here at all. We were practically the only ones on the trail, every so often we'd meet up with a couple of folks and their guide, but certainly not a lot of people. Since we'd had a long day starting out in Tana, there was no night walk tonight, but there would be a few to come. Tomorrow, a very early start to head out to the Mantadia section of the park. Awesome janzin , I am glad you started a report. It will be very interesting to compare experiences. Already, you have had much better food and restaurant service than we did. And, of course, your photos are amazing. The only other crowded park for us was the main section of Ranomafana. Superb images as always. Sorry the trip did not meet expectations but hey, based on the pictures so far and your descriptions, it appears you did fine despite the logistical issues. As is often said in Africa sometimes you just have to take a deep breath and go with the flow. What is not cool and bordering on unacceptable is the guide moving too quickly and not catering to the reasonable requirements of ALL paying members of the group. Often people in group settings have issues with other group members having divergent interests. But for a professional guide not to properly look after every member by catering to just a few is bad. Moving too fast for all group members to keep up with is BS. Thanks for doing this report. Yep, that's how we felt. And believe me we wrote Rockjumper and made our feelings known, on our return. The next morning we had a very early breakfast, I think around 5 a. We then headed out for an all-day trip to the Mantadia section of the park, taking a packed lunch. The road is paved for a bit but once you get to the area of Vakona lodge which we passed Lots of mud. And lots of ruts. Eventually we got to a place in the road where we stopped to start our hike into the forest. Our goal this morning was several of the ground-roller species, and this was a group I most wanted to see, especially Pitta-like Ground-roller. The trails of course were muddy, narrow, and thick with roots. Steep in some places. Fairly treacherous but of course David was on a fast pace, with the three 'twitchers' close behind. Luckily Guy stuck with the rear to help the stragglers. We also had a couple of local guides with us. These photos are not all from this day but from the same area. Typical muddy trail not the steepest parts This group formed a very long chain I'm not sure of the rationale We saw some birds, but photography was really difficult in the forest. Here are just a couple I managed, not great but I'm including them because they are both endemic and interesting birds. In addition to these we had good looks at Madagascar Cuckoo-shrike, Blue Coua, and several others for which I only have record photos. Suddenly, David heard the call of the Pitta-like Ground Roller. And we're off! The already fast pace became almost a run. We struggled to keep up without slipping in the mud or tripping over roots We shortly reached a river, and David and the 'twitchers' were already there. The river was running fast, not too deep but definitely fast due to the recent rains. And it was muddy Not only that, the embankment in this spot was fairly steep. There was no bridge nor obvious crossing and we could see that the local guides were quickly throwing narrow logs across, pieces of wood, whatever they could find and we were expected to cross this slippery path! David was already hopping across when I put my foot down and said to Guy, I am NOT going across that with my camera I could just see slipping on only the third full day of the trip and dunking my gear in the river. Also realizing that we'd have to return across this river to get back! Alan was torn, but he said he'd try and he handed me his camera to hold. The other not-to-serious birding couple were behind us and they hesitated too, but decided to try. Well Alan immediately slipped in the mud going down the embankment and that was enough for him. He came back up and said he wasn't going either. The other two, in the end, went down and I guess managed to get across. Meantime while all this was going on David was already on the other side and we called across to say 'we're not coming' and basically, instead of coming back to maybe try to help us across, he just said 'If you don't come you'll miss the bird' and then I said, 'well then we'll miss it. I was pretty disappointed to miss one of the best birds of the trip, but I wasn't going to risk my neck and my camera. In hindsight if it had all happened at a slower pace, if David and the local guides had waited instead of proceeding at a frenzy, we might have tried to get across. To add insult to injury, on the other side of the river the group found not only the Pitta-like Ground Roller, but two other targets as well--the Scaly-breasted Ground Roller and the Short-legged Ground Roller. And, the Pygmy Kingfisher! All birds I really wanted to see. Guy led us back to the road and we birded quite a long distance with him, we heard more calls of the Pitta-like Ground-Roller, but couldn't locate it. In fact we saw just about nothing along the road. The others came back after almost an hour and needless to say we were pretty bummed, especially when we heard about all that they saw. Granted, in the end it was our choice not to go and now I sort of kick myself about it but we probably made the right decision. Jerry one of the friendly twitcher guys told me that it was a lot of steep bush-wacking on the other side, and he actually fell himself, as did others. Although they crossed back over the river at a slightly easier spot. Sigh, well we still had the rest of the day--it wasn't even lunchtime yet--and David said there would be more chances to find the Ground-rollers again. To cut the suspense, no, they weren't seen again, at least not by us. But this is where we started to think that, hmmm, maybe coming with a birding group was a mistake. We drove a bit further up the road to a different trail-head, which David said should be easier. That blue vanga is stunning, it's a bird I didn't see well on my trip. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. Safaritalk uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. By using Safaritalk you agree to our use of cookies. If you wish to refuse the setting of cookies you can change settings on your browser to clear and block cookies. However, by doing so, Safaritalk may not work properly and you may not be able to access all areas. If you are happy to accept cookies and haven't adjusted browser settings to refuse cookies, Safaritalk will issue cookies when you log on to our site. Share More sharing options Followers 5. Recommended Posts. Posted December 29, However, I do have some different perspectives and hopefully some useful information, and lots of folks kindly asked me to post my report, so I will proceed. For most locations, I won't do a day-by-day recounting but will just summarize the highlights and lowlights , although a few special days I may recount more in full. We've been wanting to visit Madagascar for quite awhile, but I always felt it was too complicated to go independently, or at least more complicated than I wanted to deal with. I of course had heard about all the logistical issues with transport and I really didn't want to have to deal with them on our own. Also to be honest I was a bit nervous about traveling there and wanted a very experienced guide and back-end company who could handle potential problems. We chose to go with Rockjumper Birding, based in South Africa, because we had had a great trip with them to Cuba another place we didn't want to do independently and because of all the birding tour groups, they had the most experience in Madagascar, leading trips there per year, rather than the one or two of most companies. The guide we had, David H, was one of their most senior and had done Madagascar at least 10 or 11 times, so we felt we were in good hands. Also, they maxed the trip at 8 participants And the price was very reasonable! I'll cut right to the chase before continuing with the actual report. Similarly to Atdahl , we returned with some sense of disappointment and frustration Our main issues involved being with a group tour. Although there were definitely some benefits, we returned vowing up and down that we will never, ever join a group tour again Not to say we didn't have some great experiences Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options Replies Created 4 yr Last Reply 4 yr. Top Posters In This Topic 49 10 7 5. Popular Posts janzin December 29, Posted Images. Of course, they would stop for lemurs and we did stop when there was an obvious chameleon, etc, but they didn't do much active searching for them. One of our major disappointments was never seeing a leaf-tailed gecko Our group just didn't spend much time actively searching them out except on night walks We were always accompanied by a local guide, Guy, who was excellent and probably saved our lives not kidding! He always kept an eye on us, helping us on the trails, etc. We can't speak highly enough of him. In most places we were accompanied by park guides as well, and they were often the ones who stopped for the chameleons etc. I'll get into that later. The delays started before we even started out, as on our arrival, we were informed that our original itinerary had to be changed due to there no longer being a direct flight between two of our destinations. Here was our original itinerary--followed by the itinerary we ended up with. More or less The important thing to note is that originally we had two nights in Tulear, and three internal flights. Posted December 29, edited. Some birds around the Relais des Plateaux: African Stonechats were nesting on the premises. Female African Stonechat Endemic Madagascar Bulbul Couldn't get enough of the Red Fodys Female Red Fody Other birds seen around the hotel were Madagascar Wagtails but I have better photos from elsewhere , Madagascar Bee-eater too distant for photos and every night we heard Madagascar Nightjar, but never did see it ourselves there others did. The hotel itself was very comfortable and we found the food excellent. Edited December 29, by janzin. TonyQ Posted December 29, I am delighted you are doing the trip report! Some fantastic bird photos to start us off. Galago Posted December 29, Traffic in Tana was as we'd heard We parked outside the park and entered this surprising oasis. Look at all those birds!! Some birds were familiar! I just love how Whistling Ducks line up in a row Some were endemic, like this Madagascar or Malagasy Kingfisher I've noticed that some sources seem to use Madagascar, and some Malagasy, for many of the birds. Got a fish! Not quite endemic, as it is found also on neighboring islands, but a regional endemic. I believe this is the Royal Blue Pansy. We saw a few of these on the trip, at least this time we didn't have to walk under it, but only past it All in all a good first afternoon, at this point we hadn't yet experienced any of the issues we had later. Treepol Posted December 30, Posted December 30, Zubbie15 Posted December 30, Posted December 30, edited. Brick-making is a big industry in the surrounding fields, along of course with rice. A typical 'village' on the outskirts of Tana. The less said about the 'bathrooms,' the better We arrived at our lodging, Feon'ny Ala, in time for lunch. This Brown Lemur and her baby were scavenging the trees right below our room for fruit. I will use that one for this section as its easier to spell Edited December 30, by janzin. Edited December 30, by xelas. TonyQ Posted December 30, No idea why they put a Ring-tailed Lemur on the sign, because they are not found here I also have no idea which trails we took Within minutes of entering we saw our first lemur, an Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur. Next up, the guide guided us straight to an endemic Collared Nightjar, nesting on the ground. I'm sure we'd never have seen either of these birds on our own. As we exited the park, around the parking area we spotted this endemic Crested Drongo. Edited December 30, by janzin. Atdahl Posted December 30, Looking forward to reading more. AKR1 Posted December 30, Janet Superb images as always. Posted December 31, edited. We did stop for some interesting fauna. Our first Giraffe-necked Weevil! This is the female, which doesn't have such a long neck. Here's the name-saked long-necked male. There were also some really cool caterpillers. Love the dewdrops on this one. The chain was really long! But this is where we started to think that, hmmm, maybe coming with a birding group was a mistake We drove a bit further up the road to a different trail-head, which David said should be easier. Edited December 31, by janzin. Posted December 31, Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community. Register a new account. Sign in Already have an account? Sign In Now. Go to topic listing. Sign In Sign Up. Important Information Safaritalk uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. I accept.

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