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Want to explore Egypt with me? Both rescheduled to new dates in ! It just so happened that my favorite stop on my magical, eye-opening three-week trip around Egypt was the final stop on my itinerary. And so I became smitten with the bohemian, Bedouin beach town of Dahab, tucked away in a quiet corner of the Sinai peninsula. Yet this starkly stunning town reminiscent of a set piece from Arabian Nights and famed among freedivers and tech divers the world over maintains a quiet, undeveloped, under-the-radar feel. Much of that, sadly, can be attributed to the pulse of terrorist threats that have beat around the Sinai peninsula for the last decade. All of Egyptian tourism has suffered greatly from the fallout of terrorism, however Sinai has been cut off in a very unique way as a result of the ongoing conflict between Islamist militants and Egyptian security forces. Attacks on both civilians and tourists have included the bombings in the resort town of Taba, just two hours from Dahab, the series of bombings across Sharm El Sheik, an hour from Dahab and the main access point to the region, the bombing of a plane flying into Sharm el Sheikh Airport , and the mosque attack in remote Northern Sinai that killed hundreds of locals. The plane bombing in crippled access to the region — many airlines suspended their routes there entirely, cutting off air travel to a region traditionally deemed risky for overland passage. But the dive instructors and the divers and the kite surfers and the beach bums are making their way back, slowly. And new crowds are coming, too. One of the new friends I made in Dahab — and Dahab is one of those places where you make fast friends — told me the town was becoming a popular weekend getaway for hip Cairo residents. And we could see it. We spent a fair amount of time doing both those activities — scuba diving and lounging in cafes overlooking the the Red Sea — ourselves. I spent a full week in Dahab, lingering for two days after Kat headed back to England, and easily could have doubled that. Not because of thieves. Goats did, to be fair, appear to roam the town like reckless bands of pirates, pillaging garbage and foliage at every opportunity. It was perfect. Dahab was exciting because at first glance, it offered a bit of variety, too — an English pub, a Thai restaurant, even a pretty snazzy looking Mexican joint! But maybe we just picked the wrong places. Nothing we could possibly ask for was too much trouble. And everything was served with a side of pleasantries — where were we from, did we love Dahab, what did people where we were from think about Egypt. One could be cynical and say that the incredible service we received everywhere from restaurants to our guesthouse to bicycle rental shops to wherever was a grab for tips, but I could feel clearly that it was something different and more pure: a desire for us to have a safe, perfect, positive experience. The nightlife. Hippie backpacker beach paradise with a big scuba scene and cheap drinks? But we did not really find it to be so. Some of the expats we met — who we essentially all knew by name after our first drink in Dahab — told us things got busier when there were big freediving competitions in town, and occasionally they made a group pilgrimage to Sharm El Sheik for a big club night, but generally, it was pretty quiet. Eager as I was for a classic night of Kat and Alex Antics, my body was rebelliously grateful — I was still recovering from my whirlwind tour around Egypt followed by a full-on liveaboard. And yet still, on our one true attempt at a night out, we ended up finding some antics indeed. Even the bars were hilariously unfussed — I watched a girl bring in a bottle of her own vodka to Blue Beach, which the bartender politely requested she put under the table instead of on top of it. Kat has never been able to resist a good Billy Idol tune, and thus began, right on theme, dancing with herself. I ran to the bar. Now, ice is one of those Western luxuries that I found to be a rare treat in the Middle East. And so I was bemused rather than befuddled with the bartender frantically ran back to the kitchen and returned triumphantly with an outstretched hand — holding one, single, precious cube of ice. Luckily, having one bum ankle myself since I twisted it terribly during a run in Tampa a few years back, I travel everywhere with a stiff ankle brace. The first few days, she used her bicycle as a kind of modified scooter, lowering the seat and scooting with the good foot while the bum one rode it out in the saddle. The Dahabians, I felt, respected us for this bit of ingenuity. Our main objective in Dahab was to dive — the region is famous for its gorgeous shore diving, and I have many posts about that coming up soon. We also had originally planned to cram in as many other activities as possible — we were determined to hike to St. The only thing that really broke my heart in Dahab was the same one that broke my heart all over Egypt — the absolutely shocking trash crisis. But unlike elsewhere in Egypt, it was abundantly clear that in Dahab, at least someone knew better. There were plenty of educational signs around town encouraging recycling, forgoing single use plastics, and keeping the beach clean. Our Airbnb had a binder full of education on the subject. There were even a few sculptures strewn around town made entirely of the findings of organized clean-up missions. As always, we did our absolutely darnedest not to contribute to the problem by avoiding single-use plastics on the road. And gorgeous it is. With all our non-diving activities thrown to the side, we could get down to what Dahab was all about — lounging around, gazing at the water, admiring street art, friendly chats with locals, and marveling at how gosh, can that really be Saudi Arabia right there? It looks so close we could just touch it. After not really vibing with Sharm El Sheikh as expected , it was delightful to wrap our time in Egypt by falling in love with Dahab as expected. Where Sharm is built-up, brash and tacky, Dahab is simple, charming, and bohemian. They are only an hour away, yet somehow a world apart. Never once did I feel ill-at-ease in Sinai. We asked our chatty driver for a dinner recommendation and he explained how to get there, just down the beach. For safety? The beach is fine. And it was. We quickly caught on. Dahab was the perfect combination of intoxicatingly exotic setting and a comfortingly familiar pace. Enjoy nature. Linger in conversation. Restore and recharge. Next up, diving in Dahab…. Hey Deanna! Well, this place looks like a dream. Nice bum! This place sounds awesome! I have a good amount of stuff and places I want to see in that area of the world, Dahab has been added to the hypothetical itinerary! It definitely deserves the slot! Egypt really blew me away, and Sinai was such a special part of that. I only visited Dahab for a few hours years ago, but I really loved the vibe. I agree with you that they are usually super attentive and kind. Most of the Egyptians working in the Sinai are from other towns in Egypt. I think Bedouins are still free-roaming maybe less than before , but I might be wrong! Our divemaster on our liveaboard was from Alexandria, but most everyone else we talked to was from Sinai. It looks so beautifully peaceful. I love that the locals also seem to have a high regard for nature and ensuring trash finds its way to the appropriate spot. So looking forward to going diving there. Um, WOW what a prize! This is such a great article! Can you tell me the name of the Airbnb you stayed at? Thanks for the heads up! Hi there — loved reading your blog post! Amazingly creative, delicious food! Indian restaurant Namaste is really excellent as well. Most of my favorites are just off of the boulevard, in the Lighthouse area. Literally a 2 minute walk away from the boulevard! Hey Annet! Also, I do love Red Cat! Leave a Comment. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Search for:. My Top Ten Liveaboard Tips. Cairo, Past the Pyramids. Subscribe to receive regular new blog posts, our monthly Alex in Wanderland newsletter, or our Wander Women Retreats announcements — or all three! I like looking at beaches more then I like being at a beach. Oh I have! Did that months ago, as soon as you first mentioned it on Instagram???? You got me with simple, charming and bohemian. Check, check, and check! This place sounds amazing! Hey there Alex, Nice bum! Sounds like an amazing place and I just signed up for the email list for future retreats! December 21 December 31 November 27 December 16 Leave a Comment Cancel reply.