Buying weed Hafjell

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Buying weed Hafjell

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Buying weed Hafjell

Utility Menu. Can I wax over this or does it need ptex? Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 25 of Thread: Never repaired skis before. Never repaired skis before. Trying to figure out if I should fix this myself or bring it to a shop. It doesn't seem to go into wood but does go all the way into the base. Ended in a pretty rough injury so I am trying to get it fixed while I am out of commission. I assume I just need to ptex pretty much half of the ski? Brand new wildcats with 2 days on them. Also I use skins a lot, will they rip out any repairs I make? IMHO that's one of the tougher gouges to repair and make look pretty and smooth again, with home hand tools. You could base weld the whole long gouge and flatten it on your own, then have a shop do a stone grind to bring it back to smooth the easiest. Originally Posted by powder Ptex at minimum. Keep the water outta there. Pro would slice the edges clean and do a proper weld. Join Date Nov Posts Definitely need to PTEX that. It's quite simple to do yourself: 1 You'll need to sand the inside of gouge so that it is smoother. I use 80 grit sandpaper and go until large bumps are gone and the gouge is fairly uniform. It's recommended to fill the gouge halfway with epoxy of some sort people will recommend JB Weld but any good two part epoxy will do. Buy some tools and do it yourself. Razor or dremel to smooth the edges, ptex, sure form to smooth it, wax, ski. If you need to repeat later, repeat. Paying shops to do minor work is pricey, but some are okay with that. That doesn't look like core to me, only wax. But maybe it's deeper than it looks. If it's to the core of the ski, what Pass Rat said. Originally Posted by 3PinGrin. Originally Posted by toastybroski. Yeah like an small core shot seems pretty easy but from what people are saying above it is sounding far more difficult. I just fucking got these ugh. Your skis are trashed. Send them to me for proper disposal. Originally Posted by Pass Rat. Base weld does not mean JB Weld - not interchangeable terms. The gouge is easy to repair on your own, I just think that sort long deep gouge is difficult to blend in smoothly. It definitely should be filled since that's base showing through. Originally Posted by El Chupacabra. Base weld is better because it bonds with the core The best repair will be comprised of base weld only, but will have to be flattened or ground flush with the base. You could melt some weld rod into the scratch to bond, ptex over it, scrape flush Well, if it's truly to the core, that certainly ups the complexity, but still doable. BUT, if that's a core shot, given your new to this, a shop might be the right choice here. Originally Posted by hafjell. You may get lucky. Sometimes they take the Ptex perfectly first go. IME, the top photo with the shallow brushed gouges will be harder to fill and keep filled than the deep, narrow ones in the lower photo. I'd follow the advice above, but strongly consider a shop stone grind to 'wipe clean' the shallow dings. Its really hard to see if that is to core all the way down the scratch, it doesn't really look like it? If not I'd be tempted to just pt-ex that with pure ptex and a soldering iron especialy if you don't own any good epoxy, if it pulls out, then you need some epoxy for sure if you got some good epoxy dab some in the places where it hit the core with a toothpick so the pt-tex has something to grip I am not off the rock skis yet and I don't fix those kinds of damage So ptex the areas where core isnt showing as well? Sorry for all the questions. Join Date Oct Location On another tangent. Posts 3, If it's the core, you'll need to weld in 'metal grip' as a primer before welding base repair material. Be sure to get the repair area nearly as hot as the welding material for a better bond. Repairing multiple times may be necessary. If this is more superficial, or you need a temporary 'quick fix', you might try a super hard green wax to fill in the scratches and shallow gouges. Before doing so, be sure any loose material or high points are removed and flattened. Light Hot Scrape while applying the wax to make cold scraping easier and quicker. Then don't brush the green wax out of the depressions, entirely. Join Date Nov Posts 1, Originally Posted by Alpinord. Originally Posted by mattig. I'll assume that's harder than the Briko red wax, and then add this anecdote. I put the red wax over a reasonably deep, long gouge not a core shot last year. After 20 days, I still had red wax at the deeper parts of the gouge. Time to reorder actually. Got too many yellows. Going all red this time, but maybe one green?! Join Date Aug Location gone fishing Posts 2, I don't recommend this for skis you care about but just to get an old pair back in the line-up quickly. I suggest getting a practice ski from a thrift shop and trying all your tools and techniques on the practice ski first. That way you're not bungling around trying to learn on your nice pair. This is one occasion where you should disregard my username. That there's real advice broseph. Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. Originally Posted by flowing alpy. Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 Last Jump to page:. Bookmarks Bookmarks Digg del. The Stash Upload Your Own:. Featured Trip Report. All times are GMT The time now is PM. All rights reserved. Teton Gravity Research.

Buying weed Hafjell