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A Season in the Stelvio

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There are no highways nearby. The railroad stops in Tirano, then you have to take a bus for an hour to get there. At 4, feet above sea level in Valtellina, getting to Bormio is a bit more difficult than reaching Cortina or St. No painted houses with balconies like in the heart of South Tyrol, none of those elaborate cottages announcing the most famous mountain destinations. Here you see simple stone houses, vineyards able to resist the frost, and a town of 4, inhabitants. The Frodolfo River passes through and the town is divided into five tiny districts. Nobody wears fur coats or hats here. Not even if they can afford it. The inhabitants here enjoy the emotional luxury of being able to choose among the various souls such a place embodies — which says a lot about this fiercely Catholic valley, intact and protected today, although in the past it was contested by Napoleon Bonaparte, Austria, and then during the First and the Second World Wars due to its strategic position. If you want to combine comfort with a spiritual experience in the snow, you have two choices: either aim for extreme adventure destinations with a club, or stay at Kelo Resort, a luxury mountain lodge at 8, feet in altitude above Bormio. The last cable car to Santa Caterina di Valfurva, the town at the bottom, leaves at four. Eleven suites, a small restaurant, fireplaces, sauna, all covered with fur. There is also an igloo bedroom for those who love extreme experiences. In the days of ancient Rome, Pliny came here to be healed, followed by Roman emperors and medieval monks. Their journeys were arduous considering that the Stelvio opened in From then on, with an easier way to arrive, came the members of the Austrian imperial court and, little by little, everyone else — all seduced by the hot springs along a path of underground caves and natural pools. Hardy types come here in winter, delighted to leave the intense warmth degrees and cross some 35 yards barefoot out in the snow to step into tubs of hot water overlooking the mountain peaks. Two fascinating new rooms have just been inaugurated inside: the salt room where you can take deep breaths while meditating, and a room with wicker baskets hanging from the ceiling where you can meditate while swinging. In some mountain destinations success has eliminated the industrious peasant soul. Not here. When he was eighteen Filippo asked for a cow instead of a car, he enrolled in dairyman school and began working. Layla, meanwhile, came back from an unsatisfactory trip to Paris to marry and help him. Rini Agritourismo also offers an artisanal atmosphere without any pretense. Even the owners of a stable full of magnificent horses have to do the most menial jobs. These dark, pasty flours are pleasantly rustic — as is the circular rye bread and the bread for holidays full of raisins, nuts and dried figs cooked in the ancient restored oven in Berola, above Ponte in Valtellina. But there will be trouble for anyone who suggests that pizzoccheri are a substitute for tagliatelle in the kitchen of the restaurant Vecchia Combo, where Rina and her daughter Tiziana make them on the spot, even three times during evenings with many guests. The restaurant celebrated its 50th anniversary last year. Every inhabitant of Bormio and those visiting on vacation come to try them, alternating them with the dishes of the day: menestra del mak, which is basically barley soup, manfrigoli, taroz, sausages with Taragna polenta. The owner, after having worked in Paris before returning to the kitchen with his mother, added his touch of nouvelle cuisine: the humble taroz is no longer a soup of leftovers, becoming a basket of stuffed pasta; the manfrigola is filled with bechamel; the venison is served with a pear baked in Sfursat and caramelized chestnuts. These specialties can be enjoyed in single tastings. The bresaola from Valtellina is famous. You should also buy pepper lonzino before going back home, as well as some pork filzetta and bondiola, coppa, and liver mortadella. Eat them with rye bread and a glass of the same Sassella that Boscacci uses to cure bresaola. Finish with the spicy, bitto cheese, full of holes, an exceptional mountain product. Enjoy them with crisp rye bread sticks to counteract the cheesy softness and bless them with the perfectly intense notes of a Grumello. All the way up to Tirano the hills facing south are an elaborate tapestry of vineyards: they are steeper and more dangerous than those of South Tyrol, and just a tiny bit less precipitous than those of Cinque Terre or Etna. And then go back up. The grape variety is Nebbiolo, the same with which Barolo is made in Piedmont, but here they call it Chiavennasca. Less austere Nebbiolos are the result: more velvety, more enjoyable by inexperienced palates, but able to withstand aging well. Perhaps you already knew that Bormio is the birthplace of the liquor Amaro Braulio, whose mountain herbs grow on Mount Braulio. The amaro was created in by the pharmacist and chemist Francis Peloni. What Dr. You can order them along the central Via Roma in the Steak House Braulio, above the cellars which you can visit for the preparation and aging of the celebrated bitter. He is the descendant, along with his brothers, of the family that keeps the secret and unchanged formula of the founder. All the herbs and other components that compose the bitter are macerated in each infuser. Dried and pounded, they are macerated in a solution of alcohol and water for a month, then water and sugar are added to reach 21 percent alcohol. An underground cathedral. Yet Edoardo Tarantola Peloni wanders around like a conscientious landlord with only three employees, turning off lights, checking doors and then climbing upstairs where he lives. It comes naturally to ask him banal questions: when does he goes out, where does he go to eat? La Cucina Italiana edition:. Menu Authentic Italian Cooking since the s Search. Italian food All Menu Italian dishes How to cook hacks. Good Mood. Newsletter subscription. Bormio has everything: mountains, hot thermal waters, encounters with wild animals, alpine cuisine, and luxury. The most popular destination of real mountain enthusiasts is becoming fashionable without any fanfare. Get fresh Italian recipes and food news every day! Daily La Cucina Italiana Newsletter. Weekly New York Edition.

Buying coke Bormio