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This website uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. Without cookies your experience may not be seamless. When we get back to my room, Ian gives me the four-month supply of antiretrovirals. I store them safely in my desk drawer. I do not want to deal with side effects while showing Japan to Ian. I do not want to be alone the first day after taking the medication. Unlike my first stay in Japan, this time I have lived firmly in one time zone. Ian and I travel to Kyoto. I show him my favorite gardens that have taught me so much about Japan. We go to Joko no Niwa, the prehistoric garden at Matsuo Taisha, a modern rendering of iwakura , a group of large sacred rocks that is home to kami. As the garden moves up the hill, the rocks get larger, weighing up to eight tons. At any moment it is poised to fly away—or come crashing down the hill. So, one rainy night, we go to Gion. We walk down a street lined by machiya , the old Kyoto wooden houses, and red lanterns. We hear a car stop beyond us. We turn around and see a taxi driver getting out of his taxi. By the time he reaches the other side of the taxi, he has opened a large umbrella. He opens the passenger side door, and a geisha, in full geisha regalia, emerges. As the umbrella-wielding taxi driver escorts her into one of the wooden machiya , her wooden geta echo on the wet pavement. Our last night in Kyoto, we stay at a ryokan. Dressed in our yukata , Ian and I sit on cushions on either side of the low lacquer table. A kneeling kimono-clad young woman serves the first course; the second course is served by another. As if in answer, the shoji slides open and the same kimono-clad young woman who served our first course enters to serve the fourth course. It is time for his bath. T he morning we leave Kyoto, I get up early. Once again, I drink the healing waters from the Otawa waterfall at Kiyomizudera. In Atami I realize that it is about time for the actual plum blossoms to be in bloom. Before heading to the museum, we stop at the tourist office. The moment Ian sees the screens, he puts his right hand over his mouth, which I know means he is overwhelmed. The carefully observed plum trees—white blossoms on the left, red blossoms on the right—contrast with the abstraction of the design. The blossoms themselves are echoed in the silvery-green patches of moss on the trunks of the plum trees. After sitting silently in front of the screen for what could be ten minutes or an hour, we leave the museum and take a taxi to the Baien. As we get closer to the Baien, the traffic thickens. We see groups and groups of people walking the same way we are going. Released from the taxi, I am running through the crowd. In front of me, I see plum tree after plum tree—all in blossom: white, light pink, dark pink, and every shade of red—flowing up two sides of a small stream. Amid the crowd of mostly elderly Japanese couples enjoying a sun-drenched late winter afternoon, I cannot control my tears. One night Mike was talking to his father; the next day his father was dead. There is still so much to see, so much I want to do. I turn around to find Ian. He is right behind me, taking photo after photo of the plum trees. He takes photo after photo of me as I run among the profusion of blossoms. O ur first night back in Tokyo, the night I plan to start taking the medications, we stay out too late. I postpone. The next night I make sure we get home early. In the middle of the night, I wake up feeling both euphoric and extremely dizzy. It is as if I am high in a funhouse, but it is actually not much fun. The small room expands and contracts with no certain pattern. Unable to tell what is going to happen moment to moment, I am unsettled as much by uncertainty as I am by the ever-shifting room. I wake up Ian to make sure he knows what is going on. My voice seems to echo, oddly. At first, it speeds up. Then, it slows down. No one warned me about this. It feels as if I get out of bed, I could fly, which is decidedly not something that should be felt in the middle of the night in a small room in Tokyo or anywhere else. I am able to fall back asleep, if it could be called sleep. My dreams are in vivid three dimensions. Everyone in the dream has voices that echo like my voice when I woke up Ian earlier in the night. I can barely keep my head up. I am determined that we do not spend his last day in my small room. We have reserved tickets at the new Ghibli Museum, devoted to the anime of Miyazaki. The museum is in Mitaka, a suburb west of Tokyo. I tell him I want to monitor what it is going to be like on the meds out in the world with someone I trust. Getting ready to go, my nausea increases. On the way to the subway, I need to stop to get my bearings. I make it just in time to vomit. By the time we get to the station, the dizziness has started to pass. I feel somewhat myself again, though an imbalanced version of myself. I feel strong enough to walk to the museum instead of taking a taxi. We walk along the narrow Tamagawa. Here, in , the writer Dazai Osamu, then thirty-nine, and his mistress drowned: a double suicide. Now, the river is so shallow. Total immersion in its water would be impossible, let alone dangerous. At the museum, I take it slow. I am hungry and thirsty but afraid eating will bring back the nausea. I slowly taste the sweet yet sour ices. It took my return to Japan and meeting Mike to accept this fully. Ian knows me as well as anyone. He has seen how happy I am here, despite the difficulties that have been thrown my way. And now, Ian knows, firsthand, my Japan. Back in my room, total exhaustion hits me. At least now I am familiar with what it might be like living with the side effects of the medications. Are kami , present in mountains, trees, waterfalls, rocks, as well as in manmade objects, also present in the pills? But I take them in the hope they will stop the decline of my immune system. There is danger in missing even one dose. The virus mutates very easily and then becomes resistant to the drugs. I once again think of all the therapists and all my friends who insisted I was strong enough to deal with whatever came my way. On Wednesday, Mike will return. I will meet him at Narita and accompany him on the one-and-a-half-hour bus ride to Haneda, where he will catch his plane to Sapporo. With all we have been through in such a short time, what will it be like to see him again? I am still nauseous from the drugs. Leaving the safety of my room, I discover I am still dizzy, unbalanced, when I go outside into the clear springlike day. When I cross the lake over the humped Full Moon Bridge, I see how the bridge completes itself in its watered reflection. Even from a distance, I can see the white, pink, and red blossoms. This brings back some of the ecstasy I felt when first seeing the plum blossoms in Atami, the day before I started taking the pills. The cheerfully colored flowers, the gnarled trunks and branches, and the fragrance in the air as I approach seem to be the perfect antidote for the side effects caused by the medications. If only such a natural phenomenon as what I see before me could keep the virus itself at bay. But too soon—it is already past the middle of March—these blossoms will be gone, not only from the trees but also from the ground where so many have fallen. Soon after—exactly when, we never quite know—there will be different blossoms, the traditional sakura, the celebrated cherry blossoms for which Japan is most known. Perhaps there might not be a distinct separation between before taking the pills and after. I wait for Mike in the international arrivals area. The door to the customs and baggage claim area opens. A straggle of arriving passengers emerges carrying and pulling their luggage after them. And then there is Mike, dressed in the same greenish-gray suit as when I first saw him four months ago. But now Mike looks haggard. Though he happily greets me, it is not with the same nervous expectation of our first meeting. How could it be? Grief is a long process. On the bus to Haneda, our transformed bodies still remember each other. His hand easily fits into mine. His head rests gently on my shoulder. Leaving the intimacy of the bus behind, our time together is much too short. Does he sense that my body is ready to expire? Waiting outside for my bus to arrive, I feel I might never see Mike again. After I started taking the pills, I am different. Buy This Book in Print. Project MUSE promotes the creation and dissemination of essential humanities and social science resources through collaboration with libraries, publishers, and scholars worldwide. Forged from a partnership between a university press and a library, Project MUSE is a trusted part of the academic and scholarly community it serves. Institutional Login. LOG IN. Search: Search:. In the Province of the Gods. Previous Chapter. Next Chapter. Additional Information. Big Ten Academic Alliance. Project MUSE Mission Project MUSE promotes the creation and dissemination of essential humanities and social science resources through collaboration with libraries, publishers, and scholars worldwide.
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Buying Ecstasy Atami
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