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While I can definitely say that getting a room at Camping Alhassan was a mistake, the grounds with their colorful mosaics and ample gardens are a lovely place to wake up to. The food goes down fairly easily and, after a walk around the quiet paths of Al Hassan, we load up the bikes and make our way back towards the streets of Gafsa. Rather than fight it, we settle into frequent stops, fleeting bursts of speed to pass and, always, patience. Do as the locals do. A car stops for no reason. Speed up — in! Bus is blocking the intersection. Oh, he is. Is that a Citroen driving on the sidewalk to pass?! Into the traffic circle. Avoid the pedestrian who is looking but thinks his hand in my face will magically stop the bike before it hits him. Is that a different Citroen going the wrong way? Soon we reach the edge of town and leave behind the chaos with smiles on our faces. Our first stop of the day is Sbeitla and the nearby Roman ruins of Sufetula. Our route takes us northeast past Sidi Bousaid before backtracking about 60km towards Kasserine. What a difference a day can make; the gleeful children that ran down the streets with us just the day before are a distant memory along this incredibly nondescript road. For hours we pass along a road whose emptiness occasionally yields to a series of small towns, each leaving us feeling more anonymous than the last. Today is a different world in our journey through Tunisia. With a growing sense of foreboding, we simply try to keep our heads down as we make our way through the next few towns. Part of me now just wants to get to Sbeitla, see the ruins and make a bee-line to Kariouan without incident. In one of the last towns before our turn west towards Sufetula, a guy waves at Nita and when she waves back his friend gives her the finger — which they both think is hilarious. Sbeitla itself is a different story. The area around the site is full of life and bus-loads of kids visiting on school field trips bring a wonderful warmth to our hearts again. The beauty of Roman ruins in Tunisia is simply how quiet they are. These structures are certainly the highlight of the ruins here — though the baths and the Arch of Antonius Pius is still inspiring. I politely decline and DMC finds a few friends on the Temple of Juno to hang out with while we continue our walk around the site. With a good ride still ahead of us through uncertain territory we decide to hit the road after about an hour at Sufetula. Grabbing our gear from the ticket booth, we make our way to the bikes where some young men take a moment to pose with our rides — one even choosing to climb aboard! The road from Sbeitla retains the featureless landscape that joined us in the morning and our occasional ride through a rare town along the way continues to leave us feeling as detached as we were earlier. To be honest, the days riding is a bit deflating. One thing that is keeping us on our toes are the drivers. But as we get closer to Kairouan the cars become nicer, faster and, more often than not, occupants of our lane. Luckily, an occasional roadside donkey or wandering child keeps the smiles returning to our faces! The GPS has almost no road data for Kairouan and we only have a vague idea of where we need to go. The city is bustling and, after trying to get to the Hotel la Kasbah using mostly guess-work and a general direction, we stop at a gas station and ask for directions. Reason triumphs! The most common has to be playing chicken with a scooter — they ride at you as fast as they can with large smiles and veer off at the last moment. Another is running towards the street as you pass and pretending to jump in front of the bike as you pass. Also hilarious. These kids however, have created a completely new experience. My heart is half-filled with anger while the other half is laughing — as I look back and see the freshly scorned boy whimper off to the side of the road looking incredibly guilty. I love that. If the kids had gotten their fingers under the mesh and Nita had hit the gas — or crashed — the days of these kids tying their own skates would have been over. The heat in Kairouan is incredible. A healthy dose of WD does little to change the situation and images of asking for bolt-cutters in Arabic start forming in our minds. As we become more and more saturated in sweat, a car pulls up and a woman begins chatting with Nita as I continue to fiddle with the lock. Things do seem to happen for a reason sometimes…. Located in the medina, the hotel is both imposing and beautiful. We find our way to our room before grabbing a drink in the lobby to shake off the day. With only a couple of hours on the road ahead of us, we take our time in the morning enjoying the incredible setting this hotel has afforded us. The bricks used to build these walls were fabricated and shipped from Tozeur — the city we left only days earlier — and are famous in the region. The few vendors we do see are far from pushy which makes for a nice change. I keep the young man with me while Nita meanders and photographs the mosque which is truly beautiful. An open courtyard leads to the main area for prayers, one side for men and the other for women. The carpets draped over the floors are handmade locally and the wonderfully bricked walls climb upward — second in height to the tower, which regularly calls followers to prayer. Eventually, the young man leaves us for a while; the pace is not to his liking and the lure of more fertile pastures at the gate is too great. With prayers starting soon, we pass the rooms that house the school before being rejoined by our guide. Great deal. Walking away, we both comment on what a shame it is that the pushiness overwhelms the experience. On another day, it may have happened anyway. The temperature is well into the thirties and our gear feels heavy as we finish up loading our own pack mules. The side-stand is too tall for her bike and, while cinching her straps the bikes fallen away from her. With heart rates returning to safe levels and the last of our things loaded, we slip the bikes off the curb and wave a goodbye to Kairouan as we begin our days journey north towards Sousse and the familiar faces of our friends. Soon though the rumble of our engines and the gentle hum of the road settles our hearts and the warmth of the sun leaves us happy. About Issa Breibish. Kathleen Kinasewich July 14, at pm. Thank you for this lovely story, I was the Kathleen you met in Tunisia …It was truly a pleasure to read this whole page with my mind saying yes, yes, that is exactly how i would describe that experience.. I keep following your travels…Blessings and stay safe. Issa Breibish July 18, at am. Hi Kathleen! It was great to meet you in Kairouan! Beela July 14, at pm. Being there or any Islamic country during Ramadan should be amazing. The vibe is usually more upbeat and just full of life. Issa Breibish July 14, at pm. Thanks again for stopping by : From what we heard locally — the interior between Kasserine and Sidi Bousaid is going through hard times post-revolution and after the rioting in the region people are just more on edge. It definitely felt quite dodgy that day :. The obelisks are actually a close up of the sun-dial used to set the call to prayer at Uqba — it was really beautiful. This stretch was a total anomaly in our Tunisia journey — the country is amazing and filled with truly beautiful people. Just, beautiful!! Glad you enjoyed it : It was a pretty funny morning — like all the strangest driving and events you could witness in one spot — and in about 30 minutes! Bonkers but fun…. Jan Thain July 16, at pm. So glad to see that Breibish sense of humor amid all the the chaos! I laughed so much especially the piece with the police cage and goats etc. I love love love the pic of Nita with the blue and white shawl — should be in National Geographic! The textures in the pictures, of the land and of the people, friendly or not was a really great read. Keep each other safe and warm…. Love you both! Those pics of Nita are some of my favorite. Sufetula and the Long Road to Kairouan July 16, And so it goes with our mantra playing in our heads. Filed under Africa , Tunisia. Tagged North Africa Endless Kindness and the City of the Sky December 21, As usual, gorgeous pictures! I wonder why. What were those black obelisk like objects at the mosque? Ramadan Kareem! Hi Beela! It definitely felt quite dodgy that day : The obelisks are actually a close up of the sun-dial used to set the call to prayer at Uqba — it was really beautiful.

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