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Kaunas: November Snow and Lithuanian Cuisine Pt.2

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Why Kaunas? Disappointing spoiler: it was closed for renovations! Instead, I stumbled across a winter wonderland with a beautiful old town and even more magical town square just in time for Christmas! First of all — Laisves Alley. This was my introduction to Kaunas, having got off the airport bus at the end of it, to walk all the way down the other end to my hostel, near the church. Already, I was feeling Christmassy. I checked in at the hostel with zero plans, and the friendly guy at reception told me I should check out the old town for all the festive goings-on. When they say a museum for the blind, it is literally in darkness and you have to explore it using touch, sound and smell! Sounds awesome, right? After a quick recharge, I headed out into the -5 degree evening… and it was lovely. Instead, it was refreshing but enjoyable, and I took a walk back down the avenue and on to the old town. I soon saw what he had meant by Christmas trees. They were everywhere. All covered in lights and lining the streets all the way through the old town, twinkling in the winter evening air. There were also loads of really cute displays outside shops and bars just to add to the festive atmosphere. It was just nice. Christmas music was playing, kids were out even at 10pm when I left?! Want some more Christmas markets? Check out my post on our day out in Munich for the German Christmas markets! Eventually, the crowds started to disperse and I decided to head back for an early-ish night to make the most of my one full day in the city. Kaunas has a lot of nightlife, and I passed so many restaurants not even bars! Namely, walking a lot. I then re-traced my steps from the night before, making one quick pitstop and a detour on the way. The pitstop was Spurgine on Laisves Alley, one of the oldest bakeries in Kaunas. This had just been recommended to me the night before by a fellow blogger on Twitter, Leta. It was delicious, and very cheap — it came to 2. I actually only found out about this last minute, but then the guy in the hostel also recommended it. The courtyard gallery is an outdoor art installation on the walls of some residential flats — and it is so cool! There are lots of small pictures and murals depicting life in the courtyard and the people who have lived here in the past, and then the courtyard itself is full of art and quirky decorations like this sewing machine. Instead, I headed back into the old town and eventually made it back to the town square. Instead, I took a wintery walk around it, and watched a load of kids sledging down the old moat. There was a tiny, fluffy dog going absolutely bananas in the snow! Watch out for the Kaunas dragon too, which you can apparently hear if you put your ear to a hole in the castle wall. Did not deter the dog from having the time of its life though. There was a bit of a wait for a table, but once I was in, the service was fantastic and really friendly and quick. I became a total hipster and got avocado toast with a poached egg, along with fresh orange juice. To combat my sudden onset of healthiness, I indulged in one of the many incredible looking doughnuts on offer. You can see the snow on my hat, and by the time I got back to the hostel, my hat, scarf and hair were all frozen! By the time I got back down, the snow was really coming down, which had already transformed the town square. I was tempted to pop in to the Chocolaterie on the square for a hot chocolate, but I was still so full from my massive doughnut that I think more sugar would have made me feel sick. From there, I headed back to the hostel, taking in some of the street art dotted about the city. As well as the awesome courtyard gallery above, street art has apparently become much more of a thing in Kaunas in the past few years, which I love. Do you also love street art? For dinner, I only needed to go round the corner, which is lucky as the sharp ice was still coming down. We binged the first four seasons, took a break, and sort of forgot to go back to it! I mean, I know what happens, but still, I need to actually finish it! Anyway, I had the Los Pollos Hermanos, a delicious chicken burger with cornflake breadcrumbs. It was sooo good! The guy in my room was Ukrainian and had lived in Lithuania for two years so not because of the war. I asked him why he chose Lithuania, and he said he had been offered a job after finishing university, and because Lithuania was the first country to leave the Soviet Union, most older people speak Russian, so it was easier for him to acclimatise. I just found that transition really interesting, especially after it was brought up in conversation at work this week too, and a colleague asked how the language barrier was in Lithuania! They were really unique and ornate! They almost felt a bit steam-punky? Well, one of the top things to do in Lithuania found on my bible, Atlas Obscura , of course is a hill full of crosses that look just like this. It actually looks really cool, and seeing the crosses in Kaunas like this one, I realised why it looks even more unique! My trip did almost end in disaster, however. Needless to say, it took me a long time to get to sleep because I kept worrying about the damn taxi. A spontaneous trip in Lithuania followed by an even more spontaneous trip to Latvia? Why not?! Anyway, at least there were now two of us in this predicament. As we put on our boots, I ordered it, and by the time we got outside it pinged to say it was there. The taxi appeared… and drove straight past us, as I waved my arms in the air and chased it down the street. He started saying something about Espanol and then hung up. Eventually, I told him he would be getting a terrible review, as I watched the marker on the map move further towards the airport. I double checked, and it definitely said pick up at our address, with the destination being the airport. I think he must have stopped for us, happened to pick up some randomers instead at 4am??? A proper taxi turned up within two minutes, and we were on our way, breathing massive sighs of relief. So much stress for 4am — not to mention the fact that was only 2am at home! So anyway, I am never willingly using Uber or Bolt again. Ten minutes before the gate closing is too tight even for me, and I am travel chaos personified. Despite this, it was a brilliant weekend in somewhere I never expected to visit! Kaunas was the perfect unexpected introduction to this underrated area of Europe. Like this post? Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email. Type your email…. It looks really beautiful, and I love its colourful street art. Like Like. Aw lovely, we really enjoyed our time in Kaunas earlier this year. Hope you get to return to the Baltics to check out more! I love the spontaneity of this trip. Your departure scenario would have me awake all night, too. Glad it worked out. Happy Christmas!! The street art is fantastic. Also…a Breaking Bad restaurant? Yes, please. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Discover more from An Orcadian Abroad Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email. Type your email… Subscribe. Like this? Share it! Click to share on Facebook Opens in new window Click to share on Twitter Opens in new window Click to share on Pinterest Opens in new window Click to share on Tumblr Opens in new window Click to share on Reddit Opens in new window Click to email a link to a friend Opens in new window. Like Loading What a fun and festive getaway! Comment Subscribe Subscribed. An Orcadian Abroad. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

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