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It was September , and we wanted one last hurrah before the work and lack of paid vacation days began. It still blows my mind that these are the types of spontaneous road trips we can do these days. The drive to Cinque Terre from Zurich is about hours. Since we were leaving late Thursday afternoon, we decided to split the drive and stay overnight in Saronno, a tiny town south of Milan that we literally picked off the map. The rest of the Italians in the bar were very eager to get back to their ballads. Everyone in European karaoke bars think that they are contestants on the Voice. We left Saronno the next morning, and made it to La Spezia the main town near Cinque by 11am. Cinque Terre, La Spezia, and the surrounding areas are part of Liguria, a coastal region in northwest Italy that stretches from Tuscany to the French border. Mountains to one side, the turquoise sea to the other. This area of Italy is responsible for producing a veritable cornucopia of delicious delights. All of the very best things, in one place. Liguria won the food lottery. And trust me, you are going to want to try them all. First off - pesto. Basil grows like weeds in the region. Even the generic jarred stuff you can find at the grocery store just tastes better in Liguria. Lots of places will serve pesto with trofie , a small, corkscrew-shaped pasta that soaks up all the sauce into its little nooks and crannies. At the western end of Liguria, delicate and sweet Taggiasca olives are pressed into a rich, fruity oil. Grapes grow on the terraced mountains near Levanto and Cinque Terre, and the vineyards are so steep that most of the work is still done by hand. In fact, I may or may not be drinking a glass now as I write this post. Simple and perfect. And then there is the farinata. How many ways do I love thee, farinata? But what you need to know is that it is made from chickpeas, baked in a hot griddle pan so that the edges get all golden and crispy but the inside is still somehow a bit creamy, sprinkled with salt and cut into slices. Best eaten hot, with pesto, for breakfast. Win win. A lot of the reviews recommend the focaccia - but I say get the farinata. Pizzeria Farinata : The very essence of a hidden gem. Take it to go with a bottle of wine. You probably have heard of five villages of Cinque Terre. But what about Portovenere? Which is just fine for an Italian getaway, in my opinion! The old town of Portovenere is tucked away behind the facade of colorful buildings along the marina, with tiny alleyways snaking this way and that, up hills leading up to the Castle Dorian. After a couple hours in Portovenere, we took the last ferry over to Riomaggiore the ferry stops at all five towns just in time for a cone of fried fish and the sunset. Walk up to the San Giovanni Battista church for incredible views. Portovenere might not be a hidden gem, but a gem nonetheless. And the next day, Saturday, was dedicated to hiking through them all. Hiking Cinque Terre is, in my humble opinion, the very best way to experience this area. The five towns are all impossibly quaint, but the tiny streets are simply not built to handle the overwhelming crowds of tourists that visit every day. Hiking to each one gets you up and away from the crowds, but since the trails go through all five, you can still get a feel of the distinctive flavor of each village. A couple sections of that trail were closed, however, so we created our own route by linking together a couple different trails see below for details on the three sections we hiked. Be sure to check the Cinque Terre website for trail status reports and weather updates before you set out, especially any time after heavy rains. You can hike these trails in either direction, but I recommend starting from Riomaggiore or Manarola, so you can end at the beaches of Monterosso for a well-deserved swim. Most of these trails are exposed and the sun is strong, especially mid-afternoon. Each town will have public fountains with drinking water, so make sure to fill up at every stop. Depending on your plans and where you are staying, you can get a simple hiking ticket, or a ticket that includes train travel as well. We took the train from La Spezia to Manarola to start our hike. But first - we picked up fresh, crispy slices of farinata smothered in pesto from a stand in town, and sat at the waters edge to eat breakfast. Oh my stars, that pesto. I could wax poetically about the pesto for paragraphs Most of the time, the trail numbers will be painted on the side of buildings. This trail was steep, and the most difficult, but my favorite section. Total time and distance for Part 1: 2. We stopped in Corniglia for a quick wander through the town, and a beer and pesto focaccia and no, this will not be our last pesto of the day before setting out for Vernanzza. This section is high along the cliffs, with incredible views of the sea and tiny little inlets below. The cliffs are dramatic, the colors of the water absolutely extraordinary. After about an hour, Vernanzza comes into view, with a spectacular birds-eye view of the grotto and the pretty little port that juts out below the village. Total time and distance for Part 2: 1. Up until this point, the trails were relatively empty. This part of the trail has a little bit of everything - ocean views, hills with olive groves and citrus groves and terraced vineyards, shaded forests, lemon trees, and even a couple of accordion players for that extra flair. All the classic Italian flavors. There are lots of steep sections and stairs, and I was feeling a little drained by the end of this last section. Which was perfect timing, because the trail ends right at the beach in Monterosso, and nothing feels as good as that first plunge in ocean water to rinse off all the sticky sweat. Total time and distance for Part 3: 2 hours; 3. Highly, highly recommend. After a couple hours of swimming and sunning, we changed and explored Monterosso a bit before going to dinner. I had my heart set on Da Eraldo , and even though there were no reservations available, we were told if we showed up right when it opened at 7pm we might have a chance. And what do you know - it worked! Pesto dish number three of the day was the very best of all. Savoring every last delicious bit of it. We were doing a lot of that this weekend in Cinque Terre. Trains run back to La Spezia pretty late, until about 11pm. Bus: There are no trains to Portovenere. The stop is close to the main outdoor market not the train station. You can buy tickets at any tabacchi or newsstand. We really loved hiking it. Some said it was 9km, others 12km, some said it was easy, others warned of treacherous sections. Plan for at least hours of hiking time. The second half of the Portovenere- Campiglia stretch, starting after Muzzerone, is the most technical. Rain would increase the difficulty significantly. The stretch from Campiglia to Telegrapho is a bit boring, but enjoy the shade and flat trail! The final section from Telegrapho to Riomaggiore is a long descent through vineyards and down a million stairs, but the view into the town and along the cliffs is glorious. The first uphill section is STEEP like, so steep , but the uneven rocky trail would be even harder to do going downhill. So, to do this hike?! But if you want something different, or less crowded, or a little more adventurous…this trail was a real dream. Personalized Hike Planning. Hiking in Switzerland. Exploring Switzerland. Travels Elsewhere. Other Stories. Welcome to Wander We Go. Apr Ok, now back to the weekend. Portovenere and Riommagiore You probably have heard of five villages of Cinque Terre. Leave a comment.

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