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High up in the North of the country, close to the Montenegrin border lies Shkoder Albania. The fourth largest city in Albania borders the Southern end of Lake Skadar and often visitors only see it as the gateway to the Accursed Mountains, the Albanian part of the Balkan mountain range. I originally planned my visit for the same reason, but decided on staying a few nights in town as well. I wanted to find out whether Shkoder is more than just a gateway to the mountains and if it possibly can be a tourist destination on itself. Immediately as you enter Shkoder you feel the city is different from other towns in Albania. The buildings look nicer, the houses more extravagant, the people smile more than down in the South and some of the better restaurants even list their prices in Euro instead of the local currency the Lek. The people certainly feel this way. This is surprising considering it has only about This metropolitan feel combined with the charming old Ottoman architecture make Shkoder the perfect place to stroll around for an hour or two exploring the centre without a set plan. A large part of the city centre is pedestrian only and filled with restaurants and little bars. Turn right and right again until your back at the roundabound but this time turn left onto Rruga 28 Nentori. There are a couple of touristic attractions in the city centre but all of them are not really worth the effort. There is an Ethnograpic Museum which is smaller and less interesting than the one in Tirana. Marubi Photography Museum , that gives local photographers a stage but at Lek very over priced. I also feel contemporary photography is not the kind of attraction you want to go visit when in Albania. Rozafa Castle lies approximately 3 kilometers to the South West of town on a meter high hill. The castle is ancient. First it belonged to the Illyrians, then the Romans, later the Ottomans and as recently as it was used as a fort in armed combat with Montenegro. The castle itself is very much a ruin and compared to castles in France or Italy not much special. What makes it special is the fact that it is hardly regulated. This means you can climb onto the walls, walk on the ruins and make pictures in every nook and cranny. At your own risk ofcourse, I bumped by toe when climbing a particularly steep staircase but you can end up far worse if you do something stupendous like trying to make a selfie on the outer walls. Another thing that makes Rozafa Castle the most interesting historical feature of Shkoder Albania are the views. The view over the city with a mountain range as a backdrop is marvelous. On the one side you see the lake Skadar, on the other farmlands and a meandering river with reeds and side streams filled with greenery. Seriously good views. Getting to the castle is easy! You can take the public bus which takes you there in 10 minutes for only 30 LEK. The bus leaves opposite of the Grand Hotel Europa , and then about meters further along the road. Get off when you see the castle. Pro-tip: At the bus stop closest to the castle there is a shortcut up the hill. Its a dodgy little street but it saves you about 10 minutes of walking. When you exit the alley, go right and walk up the small dirt path that leads up the hill between tall grass and bushes. This second shortcut cuts the walking ever shorter. Download the app Maps. The map has the shortcut as a tiny striped route. Where the Montenegrin side is a bird sanctuary and National Park the Albanian side is mainly good for.. Take the same bus as to Rozafa Castle but head to Shiroke Zogaj. Ask some locals for good swimming spots, which tend to be a bit further away from the road. While it is certainly worthwhile to spend an extra day before or after trekking the Accursed Mountains, Shkoder does not justify an elongated stay. So even though this article is about Shkoder Albania itself, I feel obliged to also mention its greatest quality: its function as a gateway to the Albanian Alps. The first part, Theth to Valbona is a very popular day hike, and I can wholeheartedly recommend it as it is awesome. If you bring your economy class rental you are almost certain to mess it up, if not worse. If you are set on doing the Theth — Valbona hike its better to do it the other way around, starting in Valbona. I will dedicate a whole article to this hike in a couple of weeks and will put a link in this article to that read. I will explain there why and how. From Shkoder to Valbona will set you back EUR 15 and includes a 2 hour ferry ride over the Koman lake which is seriously beautiful. Doing it independent will not save you any costs. The place looks up-class and the food and service is up to it but the prices are only slightly above average making it very good value for money. It serves both local cuisine as well as Italian and has a charming little outdoor terrace on the first floor overlooking the pedestrian street Rruga Kole Idromeno. We paid LEK for two plates of pasta and a carafe of red wine. Another good spot in Shkoder Albania is Peja Restaurant , famous for its great and affordable local cuisine. A lot of backpackers seem to be familiar with this place and come back here every evening. Sit outside on the wide curb terrace and order a house special. We paid LEK for two local dishes a large draft beer and a coke. The hostel works hard to keep its environmental impact to a minimum and even if its fully booked will try to squeeze in people that show up without a reservation by allowing them to set up a tent in the backyard. Anything that can be done in and around Shkoder, the staff know about it and can help you do it. If possible the location of The Wanderers Hostel is even more perfect. If you are looking for the best social vibes in town, go here. The hostel is hosted in an authentic old building and the staff will make sure you not only can easily do all the things you want to but also meet new friends to do it with. The hotel is located perfectly in the center of all the action and it is housed in a perfectly restored and decorated authentic old building. Its courtyard is beautiful and the owners make sure you have a great stay. Shkoder has a Mediterranean climate and with that it is perfect to visit year round. Best are April — June and September — November as the days are long and sunny and the temperature great but not as boiling as in the hottest summer months of July and August. March has the highest changes of rainy days and is best avoided. As is true for everywhere in Albania, Shkoder is friendly on the budget. While Shkoder has a railway station, currently there are little connections by rail. It is not connected to the great European lines and there is also no connection to Tirana. While there are plans for an airport currently there is none which means the only viable option is road travel. Albania, and the whole Balkan for that matter are great for road trips but bus travel in easy and cheap as well. The bus takes about 2. It takes about 2. The bus continues on to Budva and Kotor. Tickets for the AM bus can be booked online here or bought in the bus and are organised by Kotor Old Town Travel. Skip to content. What to do. Practical information. Click here to book The Wanderers Hostel. Click here to book Hotel Tradita. Next Post Next Tirana: a city guide to the capital of Albania.

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