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Every mayor thinks they have a solution. Drumont is 26, trans, homeless and addicted to crack. Here, hundreds of people sit in the middle of the street, wrapped in blankets, and smoke crack openly. Others wander, wild eyed, looking for tin cans and other recyclables to sell. Most are skinny and gaunt, faces contorted from years of drug abuse. There is garbage everywhere and a thick smell of body odour. Police patrol the perimeter, just metres away. Instead, they mostly watch for other crimes, such as robbery. Municipal officers and NGO workers hover nearby. Follow us on Facebook , Twitter and Instagram , contribute to the conversation using guardiansaopaulo and email saopaulo. Even more surprisingly, on weekdays, there are also workers with backpacks and suited office types, who scurry past on the opposite side of the street. Despite being a scene of intense urban degradation, Crackland in fact sits on prime real estate. Less than m away is a neoclassical style concert hall that last year hosted a performance by American jazz legend Herbie Hancock. There are private technical colleges nearby, and a leisure centre. None of it makes much difference to the addicts. Some exchange jokes or handshakes with each other, but most just look bewildered and lost. It is unlike nearly anything in any city in the world. After taking office in January, the business mogul declared war on Crackland. Early on a drizzly Sunday morning in May, Drumont watched as helicopters appeared overhead, and a veritable battalion of armed police and security agents descended on the addicts. She says the police used rubber bullets and stun grenades to disperse the crowd. Drumont and hundreds of other addicts scattered. Many took refuge in a nearby gas station; others checked themselves in for treatment at government programmes, or were accompanied by city social services to packed homeless shelters. After breaking up the crack market, police raided local properties, seized drugs and guns, and arrested dozens of suspected traffickers. Local government officials heralded the operation a success. Six months later, Crackland continues, just metres away from where it was cleared. There are, however, two key differences. The area has been gentrifying, and an ambitious revitalisation is planned for , including 1, new apartments. In , mayor Gilberto Kassab sent police to disperse the addicts, just as his successor Fernando Haddad would nine years later. Nevertheless, for those who say Crackland must go, the tactics enjoy broad approval. Supporters consider Crackland a menace, arguing that it gives power to organised crime, degrades the city and perpetuates a cycle of drug addiction and misery. Exact data is scarce, but it is thought Brazil is home to the highest number of crack users in the world. According to the last national crack survey in by the Fiocruz medical institute, there are around , regular users in 27 city state capitals and the federal district. Brazil shares porous borders with all of the main cocaine-producing nations: Bolivia, Colombia and Peru. Authorities say the PCC plays a controlling role in supplying Crackland. According to them, the crackdown was necessary to break the hold of drug trafficking in the neighbourhood. Clarice Sandi Madruga, coordinator of the survey, says there are many reasons for the drop. Some addicts have sought help, she says; others used the opportunity of the operation to flee from debts with drug dealers. For Madruga, notwithstanding the fact that Crackland still exists, the combination of a bit of carrot and a lot of stick has worked. Even inside government, some officials are irate, seeing in the raid the same old discredited tactics. It was a step backwards. This is the same thing that has been done for years and never worked. City Hall employs more than health workers in the Crackland area. Two of them, not authorised to speak on record, said that the police raids had increased mistrust and made it more difficult to approach addicts to help. At least 22 of these have been identified across the city. Sabara says his team is expanding outreach services across the city to deal with the dispersal, and disputed the accusation that City Hall merely wants to sweep Crackland under the rug in order to help gentrify the neighbourhood. Still, Pesaro is under no illusions that Crackland has easy solutions. Six months since the raid, Drumont is now two months clean. She lives in Tent 2, a structure set up by City Hall in the heart of Crackland, where she gets a bed and meals as part of a programme called Redemption. The beds are in portable shipping containers; there are more than spaces, and warm showers. She says it was the raid that got her off the streets: the escalation of police operations prompted her to get clean and seek assistance. She wants to find a job, and is waiting for a space in a city shelter for LGBT people; but her first priority is to sort out her ID and other documents, which she lost while sleeping rough. She faces two huge barriers to employment, however: lack of education and her identity as a trans woman. At least in Crackland, she says, no one judged her. Sabara says the government recognises this ultimate need, and points to the New Job programme, which he says has created more than 1, jobs for people living on the streets. But for Cleizer Alves de Paulo, 31, who continues to smoke crack each day, such opportunities seem far off. Cleizer lives in one of the local hotels and makes money tattooing drug dealers in the heart of Crackland. He has been imprisoned five times, the first time for armed robbery. The programme was praised by international drug reform agencies, including the Open Society Foundation; but after critics said that the hotels where the addicts were housed had become dominated by drug traffickers, Doria promised to end it. Today, it scrapes by on a skeleton staff, and is expected to shut for good in December. Without this, will continue as it is. For Drumont, despite her two months of sobriety, the allure of Crackland remains strong. Share your experiences of the city in the comments below, on Facebook , Twitter and Instagram using GuardianSaoPaulo, or by email to saopaulo. Mon 27 Nov Read more. Reuse this content.

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