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The cobblestone sidewalks are wide enough for 1. All the streets are one way, most of the time, and have cars parked along one side. The doors from the street enter into grand haciendas with blooming courtyards, many of which are now mazes of small apartments. The buildings are painted many different colors, and the tiled rooftops cascade in every direction, reminiscent of so many other towns — wherever the Spanish have conquered. If you have had coffee or chocolate from Mexico, odds are it came from Chiapas. They grow it too well actually. In the 60s and 70s, wealthy international and Mexican companies were allowed to purchase entire farming areas that had been farmed by indigenous communities for centuries up until then. Upwards of 50, people were forced out of their homes and into the jungle where they began organizing various resistance and community support groups. Out of these came the infamous Zapatistas. The leader of the movement stood in camo and a black ski mask as Zapatistas ransacked the government buildings and gave a lot of speeches. There were a few battles with the Mexican army before the local bishop of the Catholic Church stepped in to mediate a truce. These EZLN-controlled areas have their own health care centers. Stats from showed that indigenous communities under Zapatista control were provided substantially better medical care than those living in Mexican government-controlled regions. So yes, Mexico has a big problem with racism, just like their neighbor to the north. Many of the EZLN leaders are women and the whole movement is very feminist. I agree. Many of the people around town still dress in their traditional Mayan dress, and many of the western dressed people are still rooted in the culture as well. With staples like corn, squash, fruits, amaranth, chia, beans, coffee, and cacao, the Mayans traditionally ate a diet that was high in plant protein and low in sugar. The Spanish introduced sugar cane into the Americas and through this action they would unknowingly kill more people than through any of their brutal war tactics. Today people in Chiapas consume more Coca-Cola than any other people on the planet; a whopping average of two liters per day per person. Since people were initially resistant to the sugary beverages, Coke created ad campaigns in the Mayan languages, showing traditionally-dressed people consuming the drink. Soon after a story was told of a father who cured his ill child with Coca-Cola. Somehow the Mayan priests, who practiced a kind of Catholicism blended with their own beliefs, started using the beverage in religious ceremonies. With a bottle of water more expensive and harder to get than a bottle of Coke, many people drink no water, only Coke. From my observation, the poorer the people, the more Coke they drink. Many times the locals have protested the Coca-Cola plant. Children already addicted to Coca-Cola watch as their parents waste away from diabetes, now the second-leading cause of death in the state of Chiapas. Besides diabetes, the Coke problem causes people to have terrible dental problems, and many Zapatistas have gold fillings from decades of sugary abuse. Nice people, bad teeth. I believe history will view Coca-Cola no differently than the cigarette companies, it certainly is causing a similar suffering in the world. If I could make a single impression upon anyone here it is this: no coke, never. Put it back on the self and leave it there to rot. Zapatistas on Wikipedia. NYT article on the Coca-Cola problem. San Cristobal de las Casas — Zapatistas, water, and Coca-cola.

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In Los Altos, Chiapas, Coke has become a key part of indigenous ceremonies as well as a staple source of hydration. The photographer Diana Bagnoli visited the region to see the effect of this trend on public health. T o enter the highlands of Chiapas, in southern Mexico, is to enter a world of vibrant indigenous culture, breathtaking natural beauty, entrenched racism and grinding poverty. It is also to enter the territory of Coca-Cola. The signs are everywhere. Red trucks emblazoned with the curly white logo are familiar sights in towns and far-flung villages and on the winding, mist-shrouded mountain roads that connect them. Coca-Cola fridges occupy the most visible spots in most corner shops, while billboard adverts are so widespread they often end up as building materials for the very poor. No gathering to celebrate a birth, a marriage or a patron saint is considered complete without Coke for the guests. Strikingly, Coca-Cola has become an integral part of indigenous religious observance and healing ceremonies, which are often intertwined with the Catholic pantheon but operate autonomously from the church. A bottle of Coke, believed to feed the good spirits and help the sick, is today as central a feature of many public and private rituals as incense, candles and sacrificial chickens. Coca-Cola has become so intertwined with the local culture that is part of spiritual ceremonies such as this one in Tenejapa. Pascuala is a pulsadora , a type of healer. Several years ago she started using Coke in her ceremonies. But the intertwining of Coca-Cola with local tradition in Los Altos has contributed to the rise of a health emergency that activists accuse authorities of not taking seriously enough. Type-2 diabetes is now firmly established as the biggest killer in the region, according to a study of death certificates between and in three municipalities. Jaime Page, a medical anthropologist who carried out the study, says the government has sought to keep diabetes mortality out of official statistics to avoid looking bad. Other health problems related to excessive sugar consumption, such as tooth decay, are also rampant. Sanando Heridas is a free and itinerant healthcare system for indigenous people. Rosa is pregnant and has comes to check on the baby and her glucose level. The story of how Coca-Cola became so deeply embedded in this verdant land of age-old traditions and minimal disposable income goes back to the s when local indigenous leaders, with state backing, began accumulating power in religious, social and economic spheres. This included taking control of the concessions for the distribution of Coca-Cola and, initially, Pepsi too. Paige says this happened at the same time as evangelical churches were making inroads in the area and pressuring indigenous communities to stop drinking alcohol. This combination led indigenous religious leaders to start substituting Coca-Cola for the local firewater, called pox , which they had long used to feed the spirits in their rituals. Healers at the church use soft drinks instead of the traditional pox , a very alcoholic drink prohibited by the Catholic church. The seal of celestial approval not only helped create a belief that Coca-Cola had the power to heal but also fuelled its march to becoming a symbol of social status and good hospitality. On more prosaic terrain, Coke also began to replace a traditional drink made of fermented corn dough, called pozol , which was once the main way peasants topped up their energy during long days in the fields. Today they are much more likely to reach for a sugar-packed soft drink. The plant today supplies much of the south of Mexico, and it has always paid particular attention to the local market. Marketing strategies have included huge billboards with smiling indigenous models, religious references and slogans written in indigenous languages, as well as the proliferation of points of sale no matter how small the volumes shifted. Arana says the addiction starts ever earlier. As in most of Mexico, clean drinking water is not generally available even to those who can count on running water in their homes, which means many turn to soft drinks for basic hydration. The irony of this is clear in an area known for its constant downpours and abundant springs, such as the one that attracted the Coca-Cola bottling company. A well that extracts fresh water from a volcano basin. The activists allege this has been possible in part because Coca-Cola has friends in high political places. It all adds up to a perfect storm of sugar-related health issues in Los Altos. View image in fullscreen. Reuse this content. Most viewed.

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