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Sky Ounasvaara Rovaniemi, Finland

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Stepping into Sky Ounasvaara, it was crystal clear that the International Style had an impact on Finland. So how did a small hotel in the forest outside of town, seemingly put there for nature buffs, manage to invent a daringly modern restaurant recognized as one of the best in Finland? I wish I knew the answer but honestly the mystery of that culinary experience at Sky was part and parcel of the pleasure. Located a hair below the Arctic Circle, Rovaniemi is not exactly top of mind for most travelers but the restaurant at Sky Ounasvaara, a drop dead spectacle of cool, should be. Built in , it boldly exudes the Mies van der Rohe sensibilities with floor to ceiling glass windows giving on to panoramic views of the woods. Master Chef Tero Mantykangas has ingeniously devised a menu of Lappish delicacies then transformed them into an international gastronomic experience. His homeland sensibilities are elevated to artistic status in his food. Home baked breads and a tantalizing amuse bouche of cauliflower soup with soy toasted sunflower seeds got us started. The dollop of soup was so delicious we decided on another as one of our starters, a soup of fresh asparagus served with a crabmeat and fennel salad. Here he created at our table a mini sauna around the dish to dazzle us. Main courses were a yummy stuffed cabbage with deep fried seeds of rye and a wild perchpike from the Arctic waters served with barley and angelica, so light it disappeared from the plate in seconds. Desserts emphasized the endlessly interesting locale and were presented with panache, especially the strawberry pudding in a clear glass globe with dark chocolate and lime basil foam and a subtly sweet rhubarb cake set off by rhubarb sorbet and a sour milk glaze, a bit like sweet and sour but infinitely better. It was still light out when we exited back into the forest for our taxi and hikers were still coming back from their treks. I wondered if they had discovered anything as surprising as we had.

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