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When expensive tourist-friendly restaurants in Lima began serving ceviche after the sun went down, quite a few Peruvian heads shook at the sad state of affairs. Holster the plastic. Keeping the plastic in your wallet could save you a few hundred bucks during your trip. Beware the clandestine cabbies. Everyone with wheels is a potential taxi driver in Peru. Market vendors sell plastic TAXI signs that any dude looking to make a few extra soles can strap to the top of his car. Unfortunately, Matt has had some experience with this in past trips to Peru. Look for the cabs with the boxy taxi signs that light up and with some form of registration in the window or on the dashboard. Hook up a pisco IV. That means embracing the fiery, brandy-like elixir called pisco, a distillation of crushed grapes and national pride that lies at the heart of every good buzz the country over. It should be your lifeblood while in these parts. Pisco sours are ubiquitous, but two other pisco-fueled favorites should not be ignored: the Chilcano, pisco mixed with ginger ale and lime, and the Capitan, a dark, brooding Manhattan made with pisco instead of rye. Tell them you want your pisco sour shaken or not at all. Screw the travel agencies. Pressed for time, Matt let a charming agent at the Cusco airport talk him into letting her company handle my travel arrangements. The next 10 hours were some of the most frustrating of his traveling life, complete with a missed train, bogus tickets, and a low-speed police chase. His experience was extreme, no doubt, but horror stories about counterfeit tickets and sheisty operators abound around Cusco. Buy your train tickets a few days in advance directly from the train company, make your Machu reservations online, and use the money you save to buy beer and coca for the train ride up. Chew it like the Incas. Grab a bag from any market in Cusco or surrounding area, pop a few leaves in your mouth and start chewing. No, this is not cocaine technically, coca leaves contain about 0. Pro tip: Llipta, a form of lye that both softens the bitterness and teases out the alkaloids in coca, should be sought out vigorously by those looking for a stronger lift. The mosquitoes in the Amazon, at least in the corner outside of Iquitos that Nathan visited, are unfazed by our sophisticated chemicals. Remember that scene in Fierce Grace , where Ram Dass talks about how Guru-ji Neem Karoli Baba ate a fistful of acid tabs at once—his first encounter with LSD—and just continued sitting in lotus position completely unaltered? The real pro visitors to the Amazon turn to the Cock ring, an inelegantly-named Chinese mosquito coil that seems to unnerve the swarming culicidae. After Nathan drank Ayahuasca, the glowing ember at the end of the coil was transformed in his hallucinations into a glowing eye of Sauron looming over smoking, black mountains. It was just a taste of the terror that the mosquitoes must feel for this, the feared Cock ring. On the streets of Iquitos, the surprisingly wicked metropolis in the Amazon, Pasta is not a complex carbohydrate. And yes, in the land of coca leaves, crack is still a big thing. If you smoke crack behind her back, she will punish you upon your next meeting. Get off the Gringo Trail. The best days we had in Peru—a morning in Lomo Corvina talking politics and downing quinoa with locals, an afternoon in the area south of Cusco, feasting on the specialties of the tiny villages we passed —were the result of zero planning. Prolong the feast. An airport meal after a week of serious eating is like working on your taxes immediately after having sex. The juxtaposition is almost too much to take. That means you have one last chance to stuff yourself stupid with whole roast beasts, soft and savory chicken sandwiches, skewered beef hearts, and mountains of crispy papas fritas. It also may be one of the only places in the world where a waiter in a suit will deliver you a Big Mac. Keep it classy, Peru. Join our newsletter to get exclusives on where our correspondents travel, what they eat, where they stay. Free to sign up. Jun 18 Author: Matt Goulding and Nathan Thornburgh ,. In Peru. Pisco, stuff of the gods. Photo by: Matt Goulding. Swinging the big stick against mosquitos. Photo by: Nathan Thornburgh. Convivial hosts. Cusco, Unplanned Trout, beer and serendipity in the valleys outside of Cusco, Peru. Featured City Guides. More Guides.

Travel Guide to Iquitos in Northern Peru

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On October 13, In Ecuador , Peru. I had decided I wanted to visit the jungle city of Iquitos as it was the biggest city in the world not connected by roads. Getting there would be easy, I could fly to Lima but I was really determined not to have to fly out. I discovered there is a boat, well four boats, that take you up the Rio Napo and across the border to Ecuador connecting with El Coca, which is connected to the road network in Ecuador. I did know the journey takes days and I was excited about experiencing an area not many people get to see. Click here for information and maps about how to make the journey. My back had spasmed, yet again at a time at a time where I needed t get information and could ill afford to sit and rest it, which always took me back to Coyhaique, Chile. I forced my self out and I was in a lot of pain when I entered the office so I tired to get it sorted quickly. The woman who helped me initially said she knew nothing about the journey but spoke to her colleague, who typed into a computer and soon printed me off a boat schedule. There is a slow boat and a fast boat. The fast boat took two days to get to the boarder, I have no idea how long the slow boat takes and it goes twice a month. The fast boat leaves on Tuesdays and Fridays but I wanted to confirm this. There was a number on the schedule so I typed this into WhatsApp and messaged them. I received a reply confirming the boat left on those days and that I could buy a ticket from the office in Iquitos. If walking from the plaza head towards Yavari and follow it up until it meets Maynas. When you get to the T junction take a right and look for number , which is on the right on the corner of the next Street. In there you can buy your ticket, which was soles, more than had been advertised before. I paid and was given instructions as to how to get to he boat. Now the lady that sold me the ticket told me that i had Romeo to catch the 9am boat by leaving the same day if I got to the port at 6am but after speaking to the man on the hostel reception I decided to take his advice and leave the day before. I also wanted to take advantage of the WiFi. At , packed and fully supplied. I brought crackers, biscuits, chocolates etc, things that I could eat without cooking and a 7 litre bottle of water. The water came in handy but the snacks were largely unnecessary in the end. This route is well travelled, at leat by locals if not gringos. I took a tuc tuc to Puerto Lao, it cost 5 soles which is a rip off considering the ride I did next for 5 soles. You want to catch the fast boat to Indiana, but you can also say Mazan. There are at least three places to get boats here. There was lots of people unloading the boats including live chickens balancing on planks of wood across open stretches of water as they came on shore. I was pointed in the right direction and had to climb down a steep bank until I reached a man who someone had gave me directions shouted at. In the blog i had read the journey cost 8 soles and I was happy to pay 10, so when the man told me it would be 20 I laughed. He immediately reduced it to 15 and when I said 10 they laughed. It seemed of I wanted to go it would be So I agreed and got on board. The boat was two thirds full at this stage and as it was a collectivo we had to wait until it was full. Despite it being a fairly grey day it was stupidly hot and even more so when the woman and her son sat next to me. The seats are really not built for Europeans. It took somewhere between 40mins and an hour to fill up and then we were off on my last stint on the Amazon river. The journey took and hour and from my memory was largely uneventful. My big bag was strapped to the roof and there was a boy running around up there, which is impressive as the boat was not as wide as a bus. When we docked there were a tonne of people trying to get my custom for a tuc tuc. I walked past them but one man followed me. I said 5 soles to Mazan and he agreed so off we went. A lot of them are damaged which meant it was a bumpy but fun ride. I was dropped at the hostel I had requested which was the only one on maps me, Hotel Leydy. I was dropped outside of a building near the river which had stairs leading up. A women went upstairs and I followed. She showed me to a room at the front which contained a bed, no sheets, a table and a stool. There was a light and a plug socket. A window with no glass, right into the street although there were shutters. She said 10 soles although in the morning this had gone up to 15 , I asked for another room and she said no so I took it. Again I should learn to walk around town as after I dumped my things and took a little walk around to see what was available I spotted a tonne of other places. The toilet had no seat, which is not uncommon, and the flush was using buckets of water, again not uncommon, but this is the first time the shower has consisted of water and a bucket. The water was freezing but as it was so hot was really refreshing. And surprisingly quick. I sat by the river but after covering every inch of my body with bug spray I could feel I was getting bitten so retreated inside the room to read. Essentially chicken and chips was on offer. It was a hit fairly sleepless night and I was a little concerned about the lack of a mosquito net. The boat was due to leave at 9am and it was suggested in the other blogs that I should arrive early to get a seat. I awoke far too early for this as people seemed to be leaving and entering the hostel all night and lots of bikes pulled up outside. I was enjoying the randomness of it all and the slightly dangerous situations. The only thing that was upsetting was that lots of good were being unloaded from other boats. There were chickens all tied together and then pigs tied to a stick by their legs and then left to lie in the sun. I boarded the boat, where most people had claimed a seat with their bag. I selected one that had good leg space and then swapped with a lady who had a child. It took me a few minutes to work out what she was saying and then we were off. The boat sped up the river at around km and hour. Our destination for the day was Santa Clotilde, the boat takes two days to get to the border so it stops overnight. The boat journey itself was fairly uneventful. The boat sped along the river creating some breeze which was really welcome as the weather was ridiculous. I think we had one storm on this day, there was plastic sheeting either side of the boat which could be pulled down to keep out the rain. Some would get through but again it was welcome to counter balance the heat. The boat was long but small. We sat on what seemed like recycled car seats and other than a bathroom at the back, which I used once on this day, there was not much else to do. When we did sock there was often a group of people watching and I watched back silently to try and capture a glimpse of life. Just before 11 I was handed a ball of rice and chicken wrapped in banana leaves. Lunch was provided as the boat would not be stopping. We eventually reached our destination at 4pm and were told we needed to be back on the boat for am. The hostel was right by the water front. My room was better as it was not right at the front, it had a mosquito guard across the window and there was an actual shower and working toilet and sink in this one. Otherwise everything was the same. I waited out the storm that appeared with the other passengers from the boat and chatted in bad Spanish before heading out for some more chicken and chips and returned for an early night. The boat was only supposed to take me as far as the Peruvian border town of Pantoja but I managed to get a second boat across the border that day. We will come to that later. I awoke at 3am, finished packing and was surprised to find I was one of the last to get on the boat. The crew had set up a hammock for a lady with an injured foot as there was now less luggage and I needed to find a new seat as everyone had switched places. Two of the passengers were a little late and the crew went to fetch them. We left just after 4am in the dark and it was very quiet on the boat. Today was much of the same, just following the river, stopping, dropping things off and picking them up. I saw boats and children playing in the water. There was one group of children playing football on a sand bank in the hear of the day. Each time play stopped they just jumped into the water to cool off and for back out again. It was a fun site to watch, and then they swam over to see the boat. We were given breakfast which was a repeat of the chicken and rice from yesterday and socked for lunch. Today was much more cloudy and we had our fair share of storms. I was exhausted to be honest with the early start and just plowed through my book. My bum hurt by this point and I was bored of sitting for so long. Although this I something not many people do and I was getting a look at life in the Amazon I was starting to get bored. If only I could speak more Spanish then I could ask questions. We eventually arrived at Pantoja at around 6pm. This was where I was a little concerned as I needed to get a stamp for my passport and find a boat across the border. There are no public boats that take this route but you can charger a boat and as this route is a way I to Ecuador there are people that are willing. I asked the crew where I could ask about a boat and they pointed me in a direction. I went to find one of the hostels in the town but was dithering as I wanted to see what the other passengers did, hoping that one might want to go across the border or point me where to go. They seemed to dither also so I walked towards a hostel. One the Way a man asked if I was going to Ecuador. I said yes in the morning and asked where I could get a boat, on the way another man said he could take me now. I was a little confused and concerned about the safety but he spoke to a woman in uniform at the docs and she pointed me towards the police station. This is where I missed a key piece of advice. The police station was next door and I spoke to them and they said to wait as the immigration officer was at the dock. I asked if getting the boat would be fine at this time and she said yes. And I got my stamp. So I got on board. It was a tiny boat with no life jackets and the mans family, his wife, daughter and baby were on board. As we left on the dark river I started to think a little about the consequences of my actions. Here I was on a boat in the middle of the Amazon completely at the mercy of these unkind people. This did, however, make for a beautiful journey. I was told it would be 90mins to 2 hours but I think it took just over 3. It started to get cold, the engine kept stopping, we hit a sand bank and the captain was using a torch to spot fallen trees in the water and we come close to hitting some. Anyways I arrived in Nuevo Rocafuerte just after 9. The first hostel was full but the second had space. I brought a beer and some crisps which served as dinner and went to bed. The immigration office was a little harder to find. I entered what I thought was the right building and was instructed to knock on a door. I did and after a couple of times I heard a noise, again the blogs I had read suggested it was hard to get hold of the immigration officer. So I tried the handle and opened the door to a bedroom with the officer inside. Had not expected that. He came around to the office with me and stamped my passport with no problems. With that i had the whole day free to waste before getting the boat in the morning. I decided to take a wonder around the town. I spent the afternoon reading by the river watching the locals go about their business. A bakery opened so I brought what passed for croissants and Pan o chocolates for the next day and after starting to get bitten I retired until the next day. I awoke at around and got ready. Just before 5am the hostel owner kindly knocked on my door to see if I was awake. I left the hostel at and walked the two blocks to where the boat waited. A guy took my big bag from me and stashed it at the front and I grabbed a seat halfway along. This was the most modern boat Id been on. There were TV screens which had the news on, but these were soon turned off, and just before we departed at am the boat blasted out a serian, which is did for much of the fist half hour. The journey was pretty much the same as previous days, picking up and dropping off passengers. I saw groups of school children on boats in what must be a school boat. The police came on board at one point and made us all wear the life jackets and there were several groups of parents with children. At one point a little boy burst into tears because his mother was changing his sister in the toilet. A little girl sitting across from me had seen the whole thing and later when I started eating another she stuck her hand out, I offered and the mother was happy for her to have some. As soon as she finished she stuck her hand out for more and started crying so I gave her more but after a third time I felt I was reinforcing bad behaviour. She later was held over the side of the boat so she could go to the bathroom. Maybe people here have better things to do. Again we picked people up and dropped people off. We stopped for lunch but I had enough food so stayed in place. It also rained a lot more today but the covers mostly kept me dry. We reached El Coca around 4pm and I headed to a hostel I thought was cheap. I took a wonder to the bus station but it was the wrong one and with the main terminal being a further 3km out of town I decided to quit and get some food. It had been a long journey and both an interesting and boring one. But I had travelled a route that not many people had and I had a tiny look at how people in the Amazon live. One thing that surprised me was the amount of villages there were along the river. But of course that is where the villages will be, not in the middle of the jungle. There were also a lot of children and not so many adults. I assume they must have been working. If you want you can visit The iPeru office located just off the main plaza in Iquitos, towards the river Calle Naop marked on the map below. They did give me a time table but seemed to have very little other information. My hostel helped me find the location on a map but here it is in Google:. Its about a 25 minute walk or you can pay a Tuktuk driver to take you there. I was trying to be cheap so decided to walk. Towards the end of the journey the road is no longer asphelt and the office, which was someones house, was not quite on the junction I had been told. I was on the corner and I had to walk up the road a little. The lovely lady drew me a map and I had my ticket after paying Soles. This boat takes you from Mazan to Cabo Pantoja on the border. First you need to arrive at Mazan. The lady who sold me the ticket told me how I could get there on the day at the boat leaves at 9am but I decided, with the advice of the hostel, to get there the day before. The collectivos that go to Mazan leave from Puerto Lao. There are several entrances and calling it a dock is misleading as its really just a lot of driftwood and boats tied together-so watch your step. There are a few different entrances and I had to ask a couple of times to find the boat, but as always people were friendly and helpful. The journey time is about 40min and I ended up paying 15 soles, initially I was told I had to wait over an hour for the boat to fill up before it left and I was travelling at midday. Just remember this could be an issue if you are talking the next boat on the same day. When the boat arrives in Indiana, there is only one destination, you will be met by Tuktuk drivers who will take you to Mazan. If you look at the map you will see how the rivers work and this is cutting off a longer journey. I stayed at Hotel Leydy but only because it was mentioned in the other blogs. It was the only place I could find and was cheap for a room at 10 soles. You can buy food in Mazan, there are restaurants and shops. The boat leaves Mazan at 9am, so I wok up the next day and the water front was bustling. There is not really a dock but you will see there are two boats that have pulled up alongside a structure. I had to walk across precarious planks to get there and there will be people selling food on the water front. Lunch is included in the boat ticket. The boat will be here:. My advice is to bring a good book as there is nothing to see but jungle. You will dock in Santa Clotilde and the hostel, included in the price is on the riverfront. We were told we need to be back on board at 3am. Again there are several restaurants and shops in this town so you can stock up on anything you need. The boat sets off in the dark and its a long day. Breakfast is provided and there is a lunch stop where you can buy food. This time you get a chance to get on dry land. You arrive in Cubo Pantoja around 6pm. He told me where to get my exit stamp and do not leave this town without getting one. In the blog below people had difficulty getting theirs but for me it was easy. I was taken to the officer who was at the dock when the boat arrived. She told me to wait in the office. The immigration office is first. The man and his family lived in Ecuador. Now its up to you if you want to do this. I was told later the journey is much more dangerous at night and it felt scary. I was told it would take 90 mins but it was more like 3. All I know is this section across the boarder is the shortest but most unreliable section of the journey. There is no scheduled boat to take you across so you have to find someone willing. I was lucky and I suspect people go al the time and are happy to take you for a little extra cash but just prepare to be suck here for a few days. In Nuvevo Rocafuerte there are two hostels. I stayed in Hostal Yurag Wasi as the other was full. There are a few shops and restaurants along the river front and not much else. Although a bakery is among the selection. For the immigration check Maps. From whichever hostel you stay in walk one black away from the river and turn right. Its actually in the wrong place on maps. The police station is here. Again people on the other blogs complained that they had trouble getting the attention of the immigration officer. I walked into one of the buildings and was directed to a door inside the square. Stupidly I opened the door and it was the private room of the officer. He took me around to his office and soon I was on my way. The hostel owner was nice enough to give me a wake-up call the following day for the boat to leave at 4am. You pay for the ticket on the boat and on this day there were a lot of seats. The boat does stop for lunch. ITs a long day and we arrived in El Coca at around 5pm. This is a city and you are back on the road network so you wont have any problem finding anything when you arrive. Further reading — I found these two blogs really useful when planning my journey so read up on additional information. Mind of a Hitchhiker and Roaming Around the World who had made the journey in Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Mazan to Santa Clotilde — Day 2 The boat was due to leave at 9am and it was suggested in the other blogs that I should arrive early to get a seat. Santa Clotilde to Pantoja and then Nuevo Rocafuerte — Day 3 The boat was only supposed to take me as far as the Peruvian border town of Pantoja but I managed to get a second boat across the border that day. Nuevo Rocafuerte to El Coca I awoke at around and got ready. My hostel helped me find the location on a map but here it is in Google: Its about a 25 minute walk or you can pay a Tuktuk driver to take you there. 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