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The man with the multi-cultural background, who divided his childhood between USA, Canada, and Sweden. The failed basketball star who at the low-point of his life decided to start his own perfume brand. The bonafide socialite that built his reputation roaming the fashion weeks of the world, befriending everyone from Karl Lagerfeld to Kanye West and Virgil Abloh. And then there is the aesthetics. The carefully curated setup with the beard and the braids, the tattoos and the t-shirts, the suits and sneakers, and that deadpan gaze from his many magazine covers and red-carpet snapshots. Ben Gorham, the founder of Byredo Perfumes, has become a style icon and entrepreneurial star in the world of beauty and fashion. And he knows that projecting an intriguing image is good for business. The tattoos, being tall, dark, and multicultural. But I took a step forward and I became that image. In parallel to running a successful perfume business, Ben has been active in various side projects. But he has also lent his talent to several collaborative projects, ranging from fashion Frame Denim , furniture La Manufacture , scented candles IKEA , and outdoor clothing Peak Performance , all done under his own name. Originally, this interview was supposed to run in April of this year, but since covid postponed the launch of Scandinavian MIND , we had to shelve this story for several months. The first part of this conversation was conducted in the pre-covid days of January When going through his answers again, it struck me how thoughtful and well-versed Ben Gorham is when talking about his life, his career, and the many projects, and the balance between his business life and his family life. It seems like there is a parallel trajectory with Ben Gorham and Byredo. How much of it is your personal journey, and how do you balance that? At the same time I have become a father and a husband. That has also set me off in a different direction, you know. I think up until ten years ago when our first daughter was born, it was very much parallel. At that point, it became separate. I think it was even the first press article, because they asked me to show my tattoos for the pictures. And then the second press article they asked the same thing. I became the symbol for the disruption of the industry. Because they let people understand that Byredo was different. Have you stayed true to yourself? Is the persona of Ben Gorham in fashion press the same as yourself? I keep them separate. My social media is exactly that. Do I dress in cowboy boots and suede pants at home? Not really. Style has been important as a tool to express myself at a younger age. When I look at your career, it looks like you have been at the right place at the right time. Has it been a conscious thing to place yourself in the right crowd or scene? Is it a conscious choice? A part of my formula was understanding that I knew nothing. I had some cultural knowledge, but that was tied to me growing up in Toronto and New York in the nineties. I was a stereotypical college athlete. Barely being able to read and not needing to take tests. I literally started this company not knowing anything, so I realised that I had to surround myself with people who knew things. When you do something from age seven to age 25 and you lose it, you lose a big part of your identity. There was some form of existential crisis. I think as much as I was drawn into creative fields, and I had very specific ideas about culture, expression, and aesthetics, it was more about being good at something again. Building up that idea of Ben that I felt that I had lost. That was a very big reason for my drive and my dedication. In my career as an athlete, I learned about dedication and hard work, and I learned about laser focus. But Byredo became that thing. I knew nothing, but I had the emotions and the tools to build something. Okay, so you met the perfumer Pierre Wulff at a dinner party and got into fragrance because of that. If you would have met Philippe Starck instead, would you do furniture now? I believe that had I not met Pierre that day I would have met him another day. I believe that I consciously made a decision to explore smell as a medium. I believe failing at basketball and ending up in Sweden is a part of my story. Is it religious or spiritual? In the beginning, you had a place in a basement in Stockholm. You had already started experimenting with fragrance when Pierre came along. But I learned online that I could make candles myself. I bought tables and drinking glasses from ikea and starting making candles during the night. I bought a water jacket melter, which is like a melting tank for wax. Then I bought fragrance oils and experimented with dosage. It could catch fire or even explode if you poured the fragrance oil, which is flammable, into the wax. This is the big enigma until this day. I sold them the idea that building brand equity was the equivalent of owning a patent. I had nothing to lose. I was really on rock bottom. I was working construction, getting up really early in the morning. I had lost everything. I was by myself, but I had friends from my childhood, so I couch surfed for a few years. Meeting him and hearing him trying to convince me not to do this project. My perception of the meeting was that he thought that everything I did was really shitty. Which was good, because it meant that he could do better for me. Somehow I did. It was the only pitch I did. I had to learn about doing rounds of funding and learn about business. It was all new to me. I meet a lot of young people today that ask for advice. The most important asset is still information. And the biggest source of information in the history of the world is the internet. It may not be easy, but the information exists. And to me that was liberating. I was calling candle companies and telling them I was a student that was making a project on how to make a candle. How much oil, how much of everything to make a candle. I was hustling to get this thing off the ground. I was able to register Byredo. I set my ambitions really high from day one. And somehow I did that, and that became the start. My grandmother grew up in a hut in rural India, and my mother grew up in a garage in Mumbai with six brothers. She came to Sweden and made a lot of sacrifices to support us. Then we moved to Canada. What happened in North America is I think they culturally sell you the idea that you can be whatever you want. And I think I bought into that. The idea of the American dream, I brought that with me. People ask me a lot of time how it all feels. I was so convinced that this would be my life. But a good lesson to learn. When did the branding part start. The bottle, the font and so on. Even though it was simple, it was about perfection. We had a bottle that was 3 or 4 millimetres off in proportion. I spent half of our money on a new tool that would make a perfect proportion of a round bottle. It was on that level. Then I worked with very talented people. They approached me through a friend we had in common and we decided to work together. That was the formula. My ability to convince people is maybe different to other people. That is my approach. So I changed a group of Swedish investors, for one American family. The Fisher family, based in San Francisco. And partly because I felt like the brand needed a lot of structure, a fair amount of know-how, and capital for the future phases. At the same time we moved the head office to Paris. So it was more about the evolution of the company instead of an exit strategy for you? Some days I wish it was the opposite. But I still feel like I am the right person to run this company. Maybe one the day that will change. These things were very important to me. Growing up without a father gave me this idea of assuming some early manhood. The thought of being a provider was really important to me. It requires very little to live a stable life. The idea of stability is very different in Buenos Aires where my brother lives or in Toronto where my mother and sisters live. I still enjoy it. And I still think smell is as important as sight and touch. Your company has had enormous growth, with many different collaborations that are not associated with perfumes. How much energy do you put into these collaborations versus the core business? Maybe one of the reasons why it took awhile for me to break out from fragrance was because I was fully dedicated to building a stable fragrance business, and that took some time. It was a competitive arena, we were fighting with big brands like Chanel and Dior. I currently split my time between the projects. It could manifest itself in different categories and forms. When you started the brand, did you have all these other expressions in mind? But at the time I was completely obsessed with smell, so I indulged. But yes, I always imagined that Byredo would evolve and that it would have many phases that could express my ideas. It took longer than I had hoped, but in hindsight we now have a really healthy business that allows us to do amazing projects. And at one point, it probably was who I was. But eventually I realised that the brand could become so much more than me. So I started to separate the two. Realising that Byredo was essentially a by product of a failed basketball career I started to go back to that place. So I commissioned Fredrik Andersen and the tailors of AW Bauer in Stockholm to create a bespoke programme of suits made for a different body type. All the models were cast as basketball players, around two metres tall. Not just a silhouette, but a body shape and a context. I did a performance piece where these ten players reacted to whistles by sitting down and standing up, which was highlighting discipline and dedication. Some of the sneakers and accessories like caps and leather goods will continue, but getting into apparel and fashion is not what Byredo is about. And that process is kind of the opposite of fashion, which is about renewal in a really short period of time. Byredo as a rhythm is not built for that. The cyclical nature of it is the challenge. Was it important to emphasise your Swedishness or Scandinavianness in the beginning? It obviously shone through in the media. That was my approach to building the brand from day one. I founded the company in Sweden. I think it has helped me to not be in New York, Paris, or London. Because it allows me to focus in a different way. She was a single mother in a foreign country working two jobs and raising two kids. But always kind and generous. I was born in Sweden and grew up in the suburbs of Akalla and Husby outside Stockholm. Then I moved to Toronto, and New York after that. I always lived in cities. Culturally, the outdoors was not part of this environment. The kids that I grew up with did not go skiing, did not go surfing, climbing or hiking. Five years ago I was invited on a ski trip to Switzerland and I was just blown away. After my basketball career I was on airplanes and laptops for ten years. Learning to discover nature, the impact of nature on the self was mind blowing. I felt like I had lived 35 years without knowing that this was so amazing. Like always, I started obsessing about it. It became a release. Skiing, surfing, climbing, trail running, and hiking. You can climb indoors or outdoors in many places. At the same time you still see young brands disrupt the market in incredible ways. Directly to consumers, online. You see the big groups being scattered to renew themselves. But the business of beauty is much more stable. It is more static. Some of my bestsellers I made twelve years ago. What needs to be solved in the beauty industry, which is a big problem, is virgin plastic. We have a project that has been running for seven months that tries to solve this issue. It also relates to longevity. How does the advancement in technology change the fragrance world. Can you make perfume from an AI, or do you need a human nose? The industry is essentially copying copies. But I think art lies in the human approach and engagement to things. I truly believe that our success is rooted in that. I think that the cornerstone for the company are the stores. We have also worked for two and half years on makeup that launches this year, which will att another dimension to the brand. One of the luxuries of being relatively small, is an agility. You can pivot and make changes relatively fast. So we shifted a lot of our content creation to Stockholm during this period. Was there an initial panic of sorts? Were you worried about the future of the brand? I became quite aware of the volatility in which we live. I think it was more of a philosophical reckoning, and an existential one for me. There is a lot of talk about an acceleration in transformation. Companies like Amazon grew as much in three months as they did in the past 10 years. Do you see something positive in the fact that you have to take these dramatic steps forward? To get a glimpse into the future. But I also think that the physical component of the world will change to a certain degree. There are pros and cons. I think everyone can agree, even the people at Amazon, that this is not an ideal way to live your life. Speaking of living your life. Will I go back to travelling the way I did? Probably not. There will probably be a balance between the way I used to live and the way I live now. It was beyond my wildest dreams that it would be received the way it was. Our e-commerce crashed twice the initial week. We sold out of most products almost immediately. I was a little bit surprised. But I do think the launch has been amplified by the current conditions. For us it seemed like people needed to be inspired and see beautiful things more than ever. So launching this year, in a landscape of very few launches, where most companies put out new iterations of existing products, coming to market with something creative and impactful has been amplified by the way things are. Has it reinforced this idea of Byredo being this universe of other types of products. It seems to be that the makeup line is the biggest pivot from where you were before. And then after a week of sales, covid hit hard. Sales kind of halted, but then picked up again. Because what ended up happening, midway through covid, was people started going into nature. Stores and restaurants and bars and nightclubs were limited or closed. So you saw a huge surge of outdoor activities, and people hiking. People were venturing out in nature in a completely different way and finding peace of mind and solitude. So that was again unfortunate fortunate timing. But they are very much about my personal curiosity for the world. I was curious about the ikea business model and processes. I was curious about outdoor culture and the development and manufacturing of technical garments. There has been a fair amount of Ben Gorham curiosity. Maybe more from a culture perspective. There is a huge movement from fossil fule to electric. The emotion of the car is changing somewhat. What happens to the idea of freedom and control? The silo effect of covid damages the culture to a certain degree. Fashion Transformation. Beauty Innovation. The world of Ben Gorham is carefully curated in every sense. From his perfume brand Byredo to his string of design collaborations, and his style-conscious public persona. We sat down with the Stockholm-based beauty entrepreneur to talk about why his professional and personal life are completely different things.

SNØ Oslo, Norway, Aug. 23, 2022

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