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I was told that travelling on Indian trains was an experience in itself. M highly recommended it: she told us there they were full of chai-wallahs, who were selling tea and snacks, as well as all sorts of colourful people, from itinerant holy men to hijras. It was clean and reminiscent of the west. The trains however were a bit shabby we went 2nd class , but had a Mad Max vibe to them, with rows upon rows of metal fans cooling their metallic bellies. We even found seats. The crowd was not very memorable however, apart from the neighbour who set across me and who would always usurp my seat by putting up his feet whenever I stood up. Varkala, was only 2 hours away from Alleppey and we arrived in the early morning. The view was immediately enchanting: a flock of eagles flew above us against azure sky; flat coast stretched a mile ahead, in endless palm groves; the waves broke and released salty sea-smell. It was no wonder that Varkala became a holy site in Hinduism for its curative powers. Our spirits were further lifted by the cornucopia of western foods on offer in the row of charming cafes perched on the cliff. However after a week of almost exclusively veggie curry diet and places that mostly escaped westernisation meaning: no good cafes , my heart jumped at just the possibility of having something like the stuff I like back home. F immediately ordered a crepe, while I was looking forward to coffee. We sat next to an ultra-thin Aussie dude, in his 60s. In a stereotypically gregarious way he started chatting to us, after F read out a quote from Shantaram his new favourite book to me. The Aussie was slightly hippy looking, and it turned out he was running a super-sustainable farm just outside of Sydney, and had done tons of jobs, which included being a ski instructor and selling various things. He was clearly young in his heart and a joy to behold, especially as I am usually surrounded by world-weary almostyear-olds who are counting each year with dread. The Aussie escaped a 2 week Ayurvedic cleansing in near-by Trivandrum and decided to enjoy a bit of solid food and rest from forced vomiting and enemas. His story somehow inspired me to seek an Ayurvedic massage later in the day, after having heard from three people that it is unpleasant experience. After the joy of Western food, we wanted to go back to our homestay. We entered a beautiful plam grove with seductive bamboos huts dotted around. A guy showed us a double room, F protested that we booked a twin. The manager arrived, and smiled: we were at a wrong place. Our actual homestay was the next door waste dump with three buildings, all of them looking like work in progress. Our room had no working lights and looked like prison. After Al Asr in Alleppey, this was a blow. We all separated to enjoy shopping and western foods. In Varkala there seemed to be a strict division of labour: all the touts and clothes shop owners were local women in their 20s and 30s, all with children who pleaded tourists to come in. Restaurants were run by Tibetans, while pashmina and jewellery stores were the domain of Kashmiris all swearing that the billions of identical scarves were hand-made in their very village. The crowd was predominantly western for the first time, with a good portion of burnt-out 50 year olds, talking to themselves and smoking various funny things. Weary from shopping, coffee and being hounded to buy marijuana shirts, I decided to take the plunge and get that massage and then jump into the rough seas. The place of choice was recommended by Lonely Planet and the massage was amazing. Then I was washed by a potbellied moustachioed guy in his 40s. Although it was indeed cringey, I felt light and unusually happy. I chanced upon M and F and we went to see the sunset on a nearby black sand beach next to a mosque, where the fishermen leave their boats. I jumped into the sea partly to wash away the strong spicy smell of oils, partly to celebrate life and freedom and enjoyed the huge waves as if I was a five-year old. Yet happily I splashed as the sky got orange and pink, and two clouds that looked like giant wings burned golden in the sky. I was in India, the place I so feared and craved, and I was happy. We strayed on the beach until it got so dark that dozens of fishing boats illuminated the horizon, taking pictures and looking in wonder. They both worked in Paris, one as a surgical nurse, the other as a paediatric one, and were just starting. It turned out that they where in charge of getting Heavenly Breeze into shape in exchange for accommodation. They were planning to finish their trip in Australia and F was dispensing his hard-earned travel advice, about joys and pains of various South-East Asian countries. I went back to the room early, only to be attacked by fleas in the cushion of our garden chair in Heavenly Breeze. Naturally, we changed homestays as soon as we woke up. The next day we spent haggling over various knick-knacks all of the very finest quality produced by master-craftsmen and I acquired a pair of local pajamas as well as few Nehru-collared beach shirts. F was moved by some chapter in Shantaram to spread the wealth through shopping, M needed stuff and she came to India with minimum clothes and I got hooked on haggling. M, F and I started discussing plans for the next day:. But deep inside I was curious as to what it will be like. Still in good mood from my massage and lovely sunset the day before, I thought all will be fine. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive. Type your email…. Continue reading. Skip to content I was told that travelling on Indian trains was an experience in itself. Like this: Like Loading Leave a Reply Cancel reply. Next Next post: India, days The Ashram. Discover more from The Nutshell Times Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive. Type your email… Subscribe. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

Varkala – where sea meets the cliffs

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With a bit of complications around taking leaves in office, we decided to make it to Varkala for one day. We set out from Punalur early morning in a hired taxi. The one hour odd exhilarating drive through the numerous rubber and spices plantations and beautiful coconut trees lined roads upped our spirits. Our resort, Clafouti Beach Resort, was on the North Cliff , a popular place lined with multiple resorts and shacks. I was already in love with the place as we checked in to our resort. From our room, we could see the sea even lying down on the bed. It had rained the day before, and the weather was pleasant and breezy. The clouds-dotted sky and the vast, clear sea were presenting a scene right out of a painting. Standing on the cliff, the panoramic view sure made my heart skip a beat. After quickly freshening up in our room, we set out to make the best of the 8 hours in our hands. Our resort had a cosy shack overlooking the sea. Famished that we were, we ordered for a huge breakfast of sandwiches, pancakes, omelettes and juices. We were surprised by the food bill amount, it was half of what you would pay in popular touristy beaches like Goa or Kovalam. It being an off-season, we could see very few tourists, mostly foreigners. Few shops selling local handicrafts, colorful clothes and ornaments were open and the vendors smiled graciously as we passed by. Where the cliff ends, a crude stairway goes down to the beach. We climbed down the cliff and were soon treading on the soft, black sand. With the weather playing at our side, we lay down on the sand and soaked in the soft sunlight for an hour. Big waves lashing against the cliffs made for a mesmerizing sight. Hungry for lunch, we came up and made our way to a shack. Surprisingly, we could see alcohol being sold in the place, although most of Kerala tourist places have stopped selling alcohol in local places. We again ordered food like kings and by the time we were done, we were unable to get up. So, we lazed around for some more time in the shack. Back in our hotel room, we sat in our balcony, regretting that we had to leave so soon. The red sun setting into the sea made for a beautiful moment. We sat there holding hands and promising to ourselves that we would be back soon. How to get there? The nearest airport is 40 kms away in Trivandrum. Varkala is well connected by bus, cabs and trains from Trivandrum and other major cities. If you are travelling from Bangalore, you have a direct train to Varakala railway station daily. You can book your train in advance through irctc. Station code of Varkala is VAK. Where to stay? There are multiple stay options in the form of homestays and resorts in the town. However, if you are looking to make the best out of your stay, stay on North Cliff. It is the place to be. What to do? Start your morning with some yoga and meditation. Varkala has developed itself as a yoga and therapeutic centre and many visitors who come here stay for days to practice yoga and meditation. During the day, you can do some beach hopping on nearby Kappil beach, Thiruvambandi beach and Papansam beach, or just laze around with a book in one of the shacks on the cliff. You can go for a dip in the sea or go check out the Anjengo Fort. You can visit the Sivagiri mutt and Janardhanaswamy temple. Catch the sunset from the cliff, it will surely blow away your mind. Indulge yourself in a spa. Varkala is not a party place. If you are expecting a busy nightlife of North Goa, it is not the place for you. Where to eat? The North Cliff provides myriad eating options. Most of the shacks offer Continental and Indian cuisine, with some specifically offering Kerala cuisine. Try out the fresh catch of the day and the good variety in sea food. How to move around locally? You can rent a bike or a car to move around locally. Autos and taxis are easily available too. This post was originally published on ' Travel with Swagatika '. By Swagatika Priyadarshini. Copy Link. Varkala cliff. Clafouti Beach Resort. Gods Own Country Kitchen. All you need to know to plan a trip to Varkala How to get there? Planning a trip soon? Get Quotes. Tripoto Verified Partners. Flights Not Included. Enchanting Kerala: Beauty Beyond Words. Kerala greenery tour 5Nights, 6 Days. More Stories For Kerala Previous. By Tripoto. Fascinating Kerala. By Kadambari Bhatte curlytravelmess. By Sushantika. Kerala Travel Videos. By Saikat Das. God's Own Country: Kerala. By Riyanka Roy. By Aarush Tandon. By Varsha Banerjee Crazy Jetsetters. By Khyati Maloo. By Tanvi Shah travelstoriesbytan. By Deepak Kashyap. Further Reads Previous. By Ravi Chaurasia. Long weekend in Varkala. By shweta Bhat. By Tanisha Mundra. Varkala Beach, Varkala Varkala: Serene Beauty of Kerala. By Smriti Suhag. By Chaithra Kowshik. Varkala You Beauty! By The Benjabi Affair. Varkala: Vivacious yet serene, a piece of Postcard from Malabar Coast. By Arpita Bose Sinha. My rendezvous with Varkala. By Krisha Chakraborty. By Loading Miles. The land that keeps calling me back: Enchanting Varkala. By Radhika. Weekend at Varkala. By TravelAnubhav. Related to this article.

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