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Follow friends and authors, share adventures, and get outside. As you may have heard, they ski in Iran. As you may not have heard, the terrain is pretty sweet, there are dudes bouncing on the chairlifts, and The hills are alive with happy women in flowing robes. Can we make peace with this place Immediately? New perk: Easily find new routes and hidden gems, upcoming running events, and more near you. Your weekly Local Running Newsletter has everything you need to lace up! Three days after arriving in Tehran, I make the trip up for the first time. Few people are kicking around the dusty, snowless courtyard, but one young Iranian snowboarder spies my Burton board and waves. He would blend in seamlessly at Big Bear. Technically, yes our governments hate each other. He shares the news with a lift operator, whose eyes bulge. Sha-keel Oh-neal! At various times during the nearly minute ascent to 12, feet, the year-old cabin dangles feet over boulders and craggy rocks. It looks like the upper regions of Squaw or Snowbird gnarly, steep, fun. Unfortunately, Farshad informs me, most of these areas are off-limits for much of the winter because the snow is poor. When we disembark, snow is blowing sideways. All the inbounds terrain is intermediate and, this being Friday the Muslim sabbath , the place is abuzz with affluent, stylishly attired Iranian teenagers who are, for the most part, very bad at skiing and snowboarding. I see a few scarves, and at one point I think I see two women skiing in full chadors, but otherwise the women show little concern for containing their locks. And then, as kids around the world are wont to do, Ali starts bouncing in the chair. Above and behind us, young people cheer and screech. Soon, chairs are moving like plastic bobbers on a stormy lake. One girl, her streaked hair completely uncovered, keeps blowing a whistle, as if a snowy rave is about to ensue. No one is fazed. Very much, I reply. By the start of , tensions between the U. In December, the United States arrested several Iranian citizens under suspicion of aiding in attacks on Iraqi security forces. Then, not long before I left on my trip, U. What finally snagged me was the anomaly of it all—the idea that a U. He picked me up at the airport in his old, faded-blue Jeep Wagoneer. You must not photograph soldiers. You must not speak politics on the street. Farshad is a short, sinewy man of One of his favorite places is Damavand, a dormant volcano that, at 18, feet, is the tallest peak in Iran. The day after skiing Tochal, we head over to the Iran Ski Federation, a government-run sports body housed in a drab two-story building in northeast Tehran. Farshad and I take our seats facing a pair of desks. His uncle runs the ski school at Tochal. At the Turin Olympics, he finished 29 seconds back in the giant slalom. Bahram is a stylish guy with wire-rim glasses and a black shirt open to his chest. He tells me that residents of the ski town of Shemshak, where he grew up—hence his last name—have been skiing for 75 years. Some basic use of skis for transportation has been going on in the Alborz range for hundreds of years, but the downhill sport as we know it arrived around , when German miners introduced the peculiar pastime to locals. Only a tiny percentage of Iranians ski—mostly people who live in mountain villages or the posh sections of Tehran—and the presence of ski tourists from elsewhere is almost nil. But I think it will go back to alpine. For the older generation, Iranian snow sports froze stylistically in , when the takeover by Islamic fundamentalists all but outlawed fun. What was left to hang on, barely, was a Euro-inspired skiing infrastructure put in place by the last shah of Iran, Mohammad Reza Shah Pahlavi, a passionate skier who encouraged development of the major resorts. Little has been added since: Only one of the big resorts has built so much as a new lift in the intervening decades. Tochal was shut down for 20 years, but the two biggest areas, Dizin and Shemshak, stayed open. They did so only by a series of miracles, and thanks to the dedication and bravery of people who worked there. Veterans of that scene still tell wild stories about the period following the revolution, when religious zealots stormed the gates, shook the support towers, and literally stoned gondolas while a few bold or crazy skiers ascended. Soon everything past the guardrails is whited out as we climb toward Kandovan Pass, which crosses the Alborz range from north to south, topping out at more than 8, feet. Farshad is giddy; it rarely snows like this so late in the year. I ask if he prefers winter or summer, a fair question for a skiing mountaineer. Technically, there are more than a dozen ski zones in Iran, but all except five are like Khor: dinky. All of them lie in the Alborz, none more than a two-and-a-half-hour drive from the luxury apartment towers of north Tehran. It offers the most acreage, the biggest vertical drop 3, feet , and one of the longest seasons, opening in late November and sometimes closing as late as June 1. Minbashian took up skiing with great fervor. He forced his security detail to take lessons until they were good enough to ski in formation behind him. He even wrote a ski manual. The clouds break. Massive peaks rise before us, slathered in white. Pulling into Rudbarak, the last village before Dizin, we stop beside a large sign depicting the grimacing face of the deceased father of Islamic Iran, Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini. The air is still and clear, and here, for the first time, we hear the call to prayer, a mournful song echoing in the valley. In the morning we hit the slopes. An old gondola car hangs from a decrepit stone arch, marking the entrance to Dizin, a massive three-sided bowl that, at A. The ski area is a vast panorama of white, rising dramatically and stretching so far from one end to the other that you could probably plop a couple of American resorts in the valley and still have room for expansion. We park near a car full of Iranian kids listening to Farsi hip-hop while chugging Red Bull and lacing up their snowboard boots. He considers his boast a moment, then qualifies it. Today, he has two young students to deal with. In the U. In reality, the country has a diverse and well-educated population of 70 million and is in the midst of a Western-flavored youth boom. One day on the slopes, a young tech entrepreneur tells me that a black market services Tehran apartments, delivering beer, wine, and hard liquor as well as drugs like cocaine, ecstasy, and speed. These delivery services operate at a high level of risk the penalty for dealing drugs can include execution, sometimes by public hanging. The first time is in a Tehran apartment, where a friend of a friend grows his own. The second is on the lift at Dizin, with two Tehran businessmen in their thirties, enjoying a powder day on the mountain. If you have money here, they tell me, anything is possible. We clip in and drop over the lip of a wide groomer that draws all the traffic just a few feet off the trail, the powder is knee-deep and untracked. We stop at the midstation and hop a second Poma to the top, where Farshad leads us on a long traverse to the east around a bend in the mountain. You can drop off at any point and find your own powder field. In a long and snaking gondola line, I meet yet another Ali, a teenager from Tehran who is also intrigued by my board. He loved the discos. Maybe some beautiful girls! The sun is high in the sky, and it feels like Tahoe: Dudes recline on their snowboards, posturing for girls wearing enough makeup to go clubbing. Though there are no legal clubs to go to. In the pie-eyed days of the shah, there was talk of connecting Dizin and Tochal by gondola, and today nearly everyone seems to hold out hope for improvement. Even at 47, Behrouz still skis every day of the season. Close to the bottom, two lifts rise on the right each one arrow-straight and pointed uphill into a bowl. Further on is Shemshak, which is lower than Dizin and oriented east instead of north. The result is a warmer valley with a shorter season and wetter snow. People who prefer skiing here tend to talk about the steeper trails indeed, it is no place for beginners and the lower percentage of snowboarders. That night we eat kebabs for the seventh straight day. My room at the Shemshak Complex Hotel is, alas, like something from a Krakow hostel. If I were to leap out my window and time it perfectly, clearing the stairs and some scrubby trees, I could almost land on one of the lift chairs. We buy tickets from three guys at a table in a shack next to the lift. We trudge through knee-deep snow up a knife-ridge. She went to Yale but now lives in Tehran. Dizin has too many snowboarders for her tastes, and she also finds its lift lines unruly. If they prioritize, this would be much nicer. What most foreigners, myself included, assume to be a mosque is actually a Shiite shrine containing holy relics. Nordic skiing is the rarest snow sport of all here it exists almost exclusively for the smattering of men who compete in the national-team pool. For the most part, the brothers make do with club sponsorships and side jobs. They raise bees for honey, give lessons, and rent and sell ski equipment at a small shop in town. Mostafa takes great pride in these mountains and what they offer to Iranians. This makes me happy to see. An older woman in a chador comes over and chatters in Farsi. A cluster of shops hugs a bend in the road, and Mostafa pulls in, parks, and leads us down a lane. To one side is a steep hill covered in snow. We enter a small foyer, remove our shoes, and walk up some steps into a warm room empty of furnishings but full of children two boys and two girls, all of them small, giggle at our presence. Every one of them, Mostafa says, is a skier. We drink tea and look at pictures, and the experience is touching and telling. The mountain villages are full of people like this. Its slogan? Search Search. A view from the slopes at Shemshak, in northern Iran. Avalanches and blizzards in a northern mountainous region of the country have claimed the lives of at least 26 people. According to some reports, as many as people still may be missing. I knew we were going off the beaten path to get to his place about an hour and a half north of Pokhara, Nepal, but I had no idea where. In mine, wind scours a scree field; a long-haired man peers down between the crenellations of a mud watchtower; a woman dozes on a wooden bed in an enclosed courtyard. The steep V of a mountain pass marks a half-remembered, half-imagined map. This is the border between Afghanistan and Pakistan. These features showcase our strongest writers, most ambitious reporting, and award-winning storytelling about the outdoors. Published: Jul 31, Updated: Feb 24, Skiing Iran The powder patrol at the base of Dizin. Skiing Iran Skiers at Shemshak. Skiing Iran Idle gear at the resort's base. Skiing Iran A memorial billboard on the road up. Skiing Iran A sunny day at Dizin. Filed to: Iran Snow Sports. Neither Should You. Mysteries of His Disappearance Remain.

Lonely Planet Iran

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Lonely Planet Iran is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Hike among the Castles of the Assassins in Alamut Valley, Lose yourself in Esfahan's historic bazaar, or ski in the Alborz Mountains -all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Iran and begin your journey now! The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet Iran , our most comprehensive guide to Iran, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet Middle East guide. About Lonely Planet: Since , Lonely Planet has become the world's leading travel media company with guidebooks to every destination, an award-winning website, mobile and digital travel products, and a dedicated traveller community. Lonely Planet covers must-see spots but also enables curious travellers to get off beaten paths to understand more of the culture of the places in which they find themselves. The world awaits! It's on everyone's bookshelves, it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world. Adventure Sindbad specializes in a variety of adventure activiti. Haram al Sharif, Aqsa mosque, Dome of the Rock. That explains why its history has as many layers as a piece of baklava. The invaders are a greatest h Located on the edge of the Arabian Peninsula, this hidden gem boasts rugged mountain ranges bursting with roses, terraced orchards of pomegranates, vast sand dune This episode was produced in partnership with Travel Nevada. Close your eyes for a second and just think about the power of this ancient river. Its physical power has shaped the landscape of the African continent, but its energy has shaped the entire In a wide-ranging conversation covering history, ecology, tourism Review must be at least 10 words. Echoes of ancient civilisations resonate down through the ages in Iran. Some of history's biggest names — Cyrus and Darius, Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan — all left their mark here, and the cities they conquered or ruled are among the finest in a region rich with such storied ruins. Walking around the awesome and beautiful ancient capital at Persepolis, experiencing the remote power of Susa Shush , and taking in the wonderfully immense Elamite ziggurat at Choqa Zanbil will carry you all the way back to the glory days of Ancient Persia. Iran is a treasure house for some of the most beautiful Islamic architecture on the planet. And it's not just the mosques — the palaces especially in Tehran , gardens everywhere, but Kashan really shines and artfully conceived bridges and other public buildings all lend grace and beauty to cities across the country. This is your chance to get to grips with Iran's modern history, too, particularly in Tehran. Enter part of the former US embassy, now called the US Den of Espionage; gaze up at Tehran's beautiful Azadi Tower, where hundreds of thousands of people gathered to mark the revolution and, in , to protest against the regime the revolution delivered; and visit the haunting Iran Holy Defense Museum to learn all about the Iran—Iraq war that so traumatised the country. Tehran is also where you can take Iran's contemporary pulse at creative art galleries and liberal cafe spaces. Across Iran, a nation made up of numerous ethnic groups and influenced over thousands of years by Greek, Arab, Turkic and Mongol occupiers, you'll find the people are endlessly welcoming. Offers to sit down for tea will be an everyday occurrence, and if you spend any time at all with Iranians, you'll often find yourself invited to share a meal in someone's home. Say yes whenever you can, and through it experience first-hand, Iranian culture, ancient, sophisticated and warm. What's not to love? The landscapes here are wonderful, from high mountains to deep deserts where the soulful presence of the Asiatic cheetah still roams. There's the architecture and the magic of the bazaars. There's the utterly civilised appeal of taking tea in a teahouse overlooking the river in Esfahan or with nomads out in the Zagros Mountains. Or wandering the mud-brick alleyways of Yazd then venturing to a Zoroastrian fire temple on the cusp of the desert. Yes, I love all of these things. But Iran's greatest gift is its people. In any competition for the title of the world's friendliest people, Iranians would be definite finalists. Meeting Iranians is, quite simply, the best experience in Iran. This square is home to arguably the most majestic collection of buildings in the Islamic world: the perfectly proportioned blue-tiled dome of the Masjed-e Shah, the supremely elegant Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah and the indulgent and lavishly decorated Ali Qapu Palace. Far from being a static architectural attraction, the square and the nearby teahouses overlooking the river throng with life. Few places have adapted to their environment as well as the desert city of Yazd. Several of these homes have been restored and converted into marvellously evocative traditional hotels. Many travellers declare Yazd to be their favourite city in Iran, and it's not difficult to see why, combining as it does a whiff of magic on the cusp of the desert. Iranian food is one delicious surprise after another. Then you can try the shirini sweets … As exquisite as so many Iranian flavours are, it's the buzz that surrounds eating, the primacy of food in so many social encounters that makes it truly one of life's great pleasures. About two million Iranians from several different ethnic groups still live a nomadic existence, travelling with their goats in spring and autumn in search of pasture. You can get a taste of nomad life on a day trip from Shiraz, or stay with the Khamseh and eat their delicious handmade yoghurt in the hills above Bavanat. The artistic harmony of the monumental staircases, imposing gateways and exquisite reliefs leaves you in little doubt that in its prime, Persepolis was at the centre of the known world. These days it's Iran's premier ancient city. Think Iran and skiing is hardly the first thing that springs to mind. But Iran has more than 20 ski fields and most of the action is conveniently concentrated around Tehran. The Dizin and Shemshak resorts are the pick, with steep downhills and plenty of untracked powder to keep skiers of all levels interested. Chalets and ski passes are inexpensive compared with Western countries, and the slopes are relatively liberal, beloved as they are by Tehran's upper middle class. Its great bulk, semidesert isolation and fascinating backstory make the Choqa Zanbil Ziggurat, which dates back a mere 34 centuries, one of the most impressive historical sites in a region full of them. Now excavated, some of the bricks look as if they came out of the kiln last week. Susa Shush is a fabulous ruin of a place with a castle, acropolis and palace remnants, while Shushtar impressively rounds things out. Even government-sponsored institutions such as the Iran Holy Defense Museum and Qsar Garden Museum make inventive use of contemporary art. Iran is an Islamic Republic and while most travellers find Islam is not nearly as all-pervasive as they had expected, the Shiite faith remains an important part of Iranian life. It is at its most obvious in the passionate devotion seen at monuments such as the huge Haram-e Razavi in Mashhad. The passion and warmth you'll encounter here lends a powerful sense of Islam as a force for good in the world. Garmeh is the oasis village of your dreams, with a crumbling castle, swaying date palms and the sound of spring water. In the age of the superstore, most Iranians continue to rely on these mazes of covered lanes, madrasehs and caravanserais for much of their shopping. Tehran, Esfahan, Shiraz, Kerman and Kashan all have atmospheric bazaars where you can browse beneath domed ceilings, dodge motorcycles and stop in tiny teahouses for a hot brew. With the slowdown in overland traveller traffic, surprisingly few make it out west, but that's just the way we like it. Track down Unesco World Heritage—listed Armenian churches. Follow the scenic route through Howraman on your way between Marivan and Paveh. Explore the Aras Valley. Or the Coloured Mountains. Put them all together and Western Iran is worth building your entire trip around. The fabled Alamut Valley offers a tempting invitation to hike, explore and reflect among the fabled Castles of the Assassins. Choose a day hike from Qazvin or more extensive wanderings from Gazor Khan — a full, mule-accompanied trans-Alborz crossing to the Caspian hinterland. Either way, this is some of the most rewarding hiking to be found anywhere in the Middle East. Join them as they linger over tea, reciting the works of their heroes. Iran may be an Islamic Republic, but its Zoroastrian sites have an otherworldly charm. Chak Chak, out in a deliciously remote location in the Yazd hinterland, has a superb fire temple with a stunning brass door, even more stunning views, and an air of ritual, ancient and deep. This was the Zoroastrian heartland and remains its most significant pilgrimage site. It's difficult to come here and not imagine yourself in the days before Islam arrived in Iran. There are other fire temples in Kerman and Yazd. Bring enough cash in US dollars or euros for the duration of your trip. You cannot use credit or debit cards, travellers cheques or ATMs. A valid Iranian visa is required. Start the process at least two months before you plan to arrive. Some nationalities can get a visa on arrival if arriving by air. You will need a local SIM card for cheap local and pricey international calls. Your home SIM will not work. Lonely Planet www. Iran Chamber Society www. Tehran Times www. See You In Iran www. For official exchange rates, see Central Bank of Iran www. For exchange office rates given here , check www. Opening and closing times can be erratic, but you can rely on most businesses closing Thursday afternoons and Friday the Iranian weekend. Shops 9am-8pm Sat-Thu, but likely to have a siesta between Fixed price taxi into town: IR,, depending on vehicle type; rip-offs are unusual if you use the official taxi queue. Services on most forms of public transport are frequent, fairly punctual and very cheap; airlines are often delayed. Air An extensive network of generally reliable domestic flights is a great way to avoid some really long drives. Bus You can get almost anywhere by bus. Most buses are comfortable rather than luxurious; speed checks have dramatically improved safety. A Check government travel warnings and make sure you're not travelling to any areas that will void your insurance. A Take some small gifts from home to repay the many small acts of kindness and hospitality you're likely to receive while in Iran. Few questions occupy the minds of first-time female visitors to Iran quite like the question of what to wear. Like all females aged nine and older, women travellers will need to wear hejab while in Iran. That means covering hair, arms and legs and wearing clothes that disguise your body shape when in public. Bring something long and loose from home and, if you want to look less like a tourist, shop for a manteau an overcoat that covers your bottom, at least once you arrive. Ditto for scarves, which will require constant attention lest you expose too much hair. Choice is limited to fairly uninspiring hotels and basic local lodging houses away from the main tourist circuit and larger cities. Hotels Runs the full gamut from budget cheapies to top-end behemoths; the upmarket end of things is limited but improving all the time. Mosaferkhanehs Basic lodging houses or very basic hotels with dorm beds, shared bathrooms, and a predominantly local male clientele. In general prices in shops are fixed. But virtually all prices in the bazaar are negotiable, particularly for souvenirs and always for carpets. In heavily touristed areas, such as Imam Sq in Esfahan, bargaining is essential. Bargaining tips include not showing too much interest at first when you find something you like. And don't buy the first one you see. Check out a few alternatives to get an idea of quality and price. Remember that bargaining is not a life and death battle. A good bargain is when both parties are happy and doesn't require you to screw every last toman out of the vendor. As long as you're happy, it was a good deal. Tipping is not a big deal in Iran. But in most other places any money you leave will be a pleasant surprise. If your offer is initially refused, persist. There is no culture of baksheesh alms or tips in Iran. Iranians are generally quite forgiving of Westerners for any minor cultural transgressions — they don't expect you to know all of the rules. Some useful things to remember, however:. A Take the time greet people you meet — greetings are important to Iranians and launching into conversation without a greeting is considered rude. Iran is an excellent place to eat out or in, if you're lucky enough to be invited to a meal in a local family home. Teahouses Traditionally where Iranians would go to socialise and eat, with tea, qalyan water pipe and food. Kebabis Simple kababis tend to be found around major meydans squares and serve, yes, kababs. Eat where the locals eat. Restaurants Found across the country; most serve ash-e jo pearly-barley soup and salad as standard starters. Naranjestan, Shiraz h8am-7pm Take the ultimate selfie in the exquisite winter iwan vaulted hall , repeated ad infinitum in the mirror. Mil-e Gonbad, Gonbad-e Kavus h7. Isfahan Music Museum, Esfahan Stunning new museum that plays to the city's fine musical traditions. Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art, Tehran Striking piece of modern architecture housing a fabulous but rarely seen collection. Ardabil Possibly the sweetest town in Iran, famous for its honeycomb, black halva 'pest' and myriad confectioners. Hezardestan Traditional Teahouse, Mashhad Fabulous food, a memorable teahouse setting and live music make this the top choice for Mashhadis. Fereni Hafez, Esfahan Fereni is a classic Iranian dessert and this Esfahan institution is so popular people eat it for breakfast. Persepolis The full glory of the Achaemenid period in one magnificent former summer capital. Shushtar The Sassanian-era structures here include watermills, a span bridge and a cliff-top castle. Tak-Taku Guesthouse Experience desert family life with Mohammad and his family in their atmospheric courtyard home in Toudeshk. Bavanat s Stay in a living museum of village life where profits return to the community. Alborz trekking Iran's best hiking with trails possible from both the Karaj and Alamut sides. Desert trekking Venture into the sands by camel or on foot from the desert villages of Farahzad or Mesr. Bazar-e Bozorg, Esfahan Sprawling, historic and endlessly fascinating; feels like a Persian fairy tale. Bazar-e Vakil, Shiraz One of Iran's best with brick-vaulted ceilings and a marvellously chaotic early evening vibe. Grand Bazaar, Tehran Begin in the copper section, move on to carpets and inhale deeply in the nut-and-spice section. Bazar-e Sartasari, Kerman Classic east Iranian bazaar with commercial lanes overlooked by mosques and museums. Kurdish hospitality, Howraman Valley Journey among the Kurds to experience singing and dancing in this ancient Kurdish bastion. Religious pilgrimage, Mashhad Observe the passionate reverence for Shiite Islam that is nowhere more fully displayed than at the major holy shrines, particularly the huge shrine of Imam Reza in Mashhad. Persian Food Tours, Tehran Learn how to cook Iranian-style and shop with locals to buy the ingredients. Much of western Iran will be under snow and mountain roads can be cut off. Desert nights are very cold, but days are pleasant and sunny. January and February are the ideal months for skiing. There are more than 20 ski fields in Iran but the best are Dizin and Shemshak, near Tehran. The snow is great and skiing is cheap. February is often the coldest month, which is good for skiing but otherwise not the most pleasant time to travel the country. The month also has a couple of stand-out events. Expect speeches and nationalist demonstrations across the country. For two weeks Iran virtually shuts down. Hotels are packed and travelling is tricky. The pre-Islamic celebration of No Ruz falls on the spring equinox on 21 March. Tehran is empty at this time. April and May is peak season for foreign travellers; book ahead for rooms and flights. The 1 April is a public holiday for the anniversary of the referendum that officially established the Islamic Republic of Iran in It has been held in February in previous years, so check the website for details. With mild temperatures, May is a good month to travel in Iran but it's still high season. Wildflowers bloom from the west to the northeast, while anywhere close to the Persian Gulf coast temperatures are really starting to heat up. During the month of Ramazan, Muslims are expected to perform a dawn-to-dusk fast that includes abstaining from all drinks including water and from smoking. Tempers can be shorter, but life goes on. In coming years it falls in May or April. On 4 June the country commemorates the death of Ayatollah Khomeini. About , Iranians flock to Tehran, Qom and the village of Khomein. The next day is the Anniversary of the Arrest of Ayatollah Khomeini in The two-day combo means a lot of Iranians are travelling. Kashan is lovely at any time, but the rose festival in and around town in June, celebrates the picking of rose petals as a precursor to rose-water production. The Festival of the Breaking of the Fast marks the end of Ramazan and, after sunset, is celebrated with huge meals across the country. Depending on the year, it can also fall in May. Ashura marks the martyrdom of Imam Hossein and is the most intense, passionate date on the Shia Muslim calendar. It is celebrated with religious theatre and sombre parades in which men self-flagellate. In coming years it falls in September and August. With moderate temperatures and no snow to block roads, October is a pleasant time to travel, and many Iranians take a break. Fierce summer temperatures are a thing of the past. With summer over, nomads are on the move, heading downhill to warmer climes. The hills and back roads of the Zagros Mountains around Shiraz are a good place to find them. Winter is coming and with it the cold and snow. Travel in the mountains of western Iran can be tough, but the desert, coast and cities of central Iran can be quite pleasant. A cold time to visit as the winter chill really kicks in except on the Persian Gulf. Expect cold, clear skies, low golden light and snow-dusted hills — Western Iran in particular is at its most photogenic. Iran celebrates Yalda, the longest night of the year. It's a big deal as family and friends gather in homes to eat pomegranates, watermelon and recite Hafez and other poets. Take a bus to Kashan, where you can explore the bazaar, check out the Qajar-era traditional houses and chill out in the Fin Garden. Make a pit stop at the mosque and tomb in Natanz en route to architecturally magnificent Esfahan and spend three days exploring the blue-tiled mosques of Naqsh-e Jahan Imam Square, the bustling Bazar-e Bozorg, the sublime bridges across the Zayandeh River and the Armenian community at Jolfa. Head to the desert trading city of Yazd for three days wandering the maze of lanes, gaping at the Masjed-e Jameh Jameh Mosque and climbing to the Zoroastrian Towers of Silence. For a change of pace, stop in the desert village of Fahraj before spending a day visiting ancient Pasargadae and Persepolis on the way to Shiraz. Spend two days in Shiraz, where you can see the Zand-era gardens and bazaar, and wander the old city. Fly back to Tehran. The route over mountains and valleys boasts nine World Heritage sites. The remotest sections will require charter taxis. Note that in winter, mountain roads can be cut off by snow. Starting in Tehran, head west to Qazvin and spend the afternoon exploring the historic city, before driving into the Alamut Valley and hiking for two days among the ruined Castles of the Assassins. Continue across to the Caspian, recovering at a homestay near Ramsar, then onto vibrant Rasht, conquering the mountain fortress of Qal'eh Rudkhan before spending a pleasant afternoon strolling the teashops of photogenic Masuleh. Forsake the dull coast and jump a savari inland, up through nomad country to Khal Khal, then onto Ardabil to visit the magnificent Sheikh Safi-od-Din Mausoleum. Savari-hop the scenic back route to Kaleybar via Meshgin Shahr. An easy half day to Tabriz and its incredible bazaar leaves the afternoon for exploring troglodyte Kandovan. More savari-hopping across high, lonely landscapes due south to Takab and the starkly beautiful Takht-e Soleiman, once the world's greatest Zoroastrian fire-temple complex. Continue on across the incredible landscape to Zanjan. Spend an afternoon in lovely Palangan before heading to Marivan and the incredibly scenic road thru Howraman to Paveh, via Kurdish mountain villages. At Kermanshah, sneak a peak at Taq-e Bustan's stone carvings, then wonder whether the scaffolding at Bisotun will ever be removed before you cross the mighty Zagros Mountains to Khorramabad and its attractive fortress. Savari on down to Shush to wander ancient Susa, then hire a car to the imposing year-old brick ziggurat of Choqa Zanbil and the Sassanian-cum-Roman engineering of the Shushtar hydraulic system. Take a savari to Andimeshk and your evening train back to Tehran. Take the train or bus from Tehran to Gorgan, nestled attractively in the Alborz Mountains. Gorgan makes a great base for visiting the Turkmen steppe and the remote Mil-e Radkan tower. Mashhad is a great base for exploring the hinterlands by foot, bicycle or horseback. Nearby Kang is a photogenic stepped village of stacked mud-brick homes. The mausoleum of 11th-century poet, Ferdosi is found in Tus, while Omar Khayyam has his tomb in Neishabur. The impressive mountain cliffs of Kalat Naderi lie to the north. Mashhad is a gateway to Central Asia; otherwise fly back to Tehran or continue south by bus or train into the desert. Avoid the summer heat by travelling between October and April. After bazaaring Kerman and daytripping to Rayen fortress, end your trip in a traditional hotel in Yazd, perhaps with a side trip to the fire temple at Chak Chak. Tourist visa Issued for up to 30 days and extendable. Must be obtained before coming to Iran and valid to enter for 90 days from the issue date. This is the surest option. Convenient but relatively risky, as you may be denied entry. Transit visa Issued for five to seven days, this is the last resort. You must enter and exit via different countries, and have a visa or a ticket to an onward country. Transit visas are not available to US passport holders. To most other nationalities, the visas can be obtained in one or two days and no authorisation number is required. Agency Pay an agency to obtain a visa authorisation number, which is sent to an embassy where you pay for and pick up the visa. VOA Works best if you get a visa authorisation number in advance and have at least your first night's accommodation confirmed. Passport-holders of Turkey, Lebanon, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Bolivia, Egypt and Syria can travel to Iran and stay in the country without a visa from between 15 to 90 days. Everyone else needs to arrange a visa in advance or seek a day visa on arrival VOA at an airport. If you hold a passport of one of these countries you will need to pre-arrange a tour or specially qualified private guide, or be sponsored by a friend or relative in Iran who will take legal responsibility for you to obtain a visa. Israeli passport holders, and anyone with an Israeli stamp in their passport or exit stamps at the relevant Jordanian or Egyptian border crossings into Israel , will not get a visa. This includes those seeking a visa on arrival, who can be approved either in advance or, with a longer wait, on arrival. Fees vary depending on your country of origin; see the Iran embassy website. The choice, then, is whether to get a tourist visa in advance or on arrival. A Do It Yourself You can go directly through a consulate, which saves an agency fee but takes at least three weeks and often longer. In theory, you download and fill out the application form from the Iran consulate in your home country; you then take or send the forms and your passport, photos, money and proof of your travel insurance to the embassy and they will send your details to Tehran for approval. If all goes to plan, you will eventually either pick up the visa in person some embassies require women to cover their hair , or have your passport returned in a registered-mail envelope. Exceptions abound. In rare cases this method can take just a few days. With so much uncertainty, if you choose this option, give yourself six weeks or longer to be sure. The MFA claims that for most nationalities it takes between five and 10 working days to assess the application. There is no refund if your application fails, but few are rejected. You then need to go through the application process as a formality, and in most consulates the visa is issued on the spot. For US citizens, allow three months to be safe. Tourist visas are available at all international airports, but it is recommend to fly into Tehran's Imam Khomeini International Airport to avoid problems. At the time of writing, to obtain the visa on arrival the following were required:. A a printout of your travel insurance. Note that if the printout doesn't specifically mention Iran, you may be required to purchase insurance at the airport;. A the name and telephone of a sponsor. In practice this can be a hotel; it is strongly recommend you have a night booked at the hotel you name and that you carry a printout of an email from the hotel confirming your reservation, although this is not an official requirement to get the visa;. A the requisite fee. Visa fees can be paid in euros or US dollars. Tricky questions:. A Itinerary If you want a day visa, write a day itinerary. Keep controversial places such as Bushehr, Natanz and border regions off your agenda. Once in Iran you can go where you want. A Occupation Teachers, nurses and data-entry clerks are more welcome than unloved journalists, military personnel or, according to one reader, anything to do with fashion very dangerous! Be aware that the MFA might Google your name. A Purpose of your visit Tourism. He was deported. What was he thinking? A Photographs Women will probably need to have their hair covered any scarf will do in their visa-application photo. Check embassy websites. To get a day extendable business visa you must obtain an invitation letter from the company or organisation you plan to visit. The process is otherwise the same as getting a tourist visa DIY or using an agency. Any Iranian can sponsor your application, which in effect means they submit the paperwork for an authorisation code. Keep in mind, though, that even with an agency there are no guarantees, and the visa agent will still take their fee regardless of whether a visa is issued or not. Seek up-to-date recommendations from other travellers before you choose one — Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree forum www. First the good news: there is usually little difficulty in extending a day tourist visa to 60 days. The following summary of how the extension process works is notoriously prone to change. Check the Thorn Tree lonelyplanet. In general, cities familiar with tourists are best: Shiraz has for years been the city of choice, with Esfahan also getting positive reports. Tehran, Mashhad and other cities are less reliable. Check the Thorn Tree www. Head for the Police Department of Aliens Affairs edareh gozannameh. A fee for the extension check the current fee with the office in question, but IR, at the time of research , plus small notes for forms. Pay for two copies of the appropriate forms. Return with your bank receipt and the visa extension will be issued within an hour or two, though in some cases hello Tehran it can take several days. Cross-check the Persian calendar dates so you know exactly when your visa expires. One of the main considerations when planning a trip to Iran is whether to travel independently, take a tour or do a bit of both. Travelling independently in Iran has more ups than downs. Freelance drivers and guides are a cheaper, more flexible alternative to group tours and plenty of readers have written to recommend this way of travelling — some for a month or more. Check that your guide is a qualified one. It takes years of study to become a fully licensed guide. The experience, knowledge and language ability of these guides can transform a simple excursion into a memorable adventure. Bona fide guides must carry a license with photo ID and hologram with the date of expiry clearly displayed. Most organised tours start and finish in Tehran, with a quick look around the capital before concentrating on the must-sees: Shiraz and Persepolis, Esfahan and Yazd, with a couple of short diversions thrown in. There are plenty of other itineraries, and agencies will happily build a trip to suit your interests. Costs depend on length, mode of transport, type of accommodation and the exchange rate. Expect to pay in dollars or euros. Iranian tour guides are generally very good so you can expect comprehensive explanations of sights and cultural happenings, and answers to all your questions. And best, they act as a translator when you meet locals. However, you are less likely to meet locals on a tour, which is a big downside in a country where interactions are so rewarding. Iranian tour operators also act as local handlers for foreign-based agencies selling tours to Iran, so booking direct should give you the same tour without the foreign tour leader for less money. Also see the Tours listings in the On the Road chapters for recommendations of individual guides and other local operators. Fixed itinerary cultural, desert and trekking tours plus flexible, personalised trips. A professional and very well-priced outfit offering group tours of Iran's highlights as well as tailored itineraries. The guides are excellent. Iran specialist with a range of tours, but can also help with arranging visas for independent travellers. Iran is a big country and while cheap, efficient transport means nowhere is beyond reach, few people make it to all corners in a single trip. Almost everyone spends time in Tehran, the bustling capital, en route to or from the historic cities of Esfahan, Shiraz and Yazd in central Iran. These cities, and the mountain and desert towns around them, rank among Iran's main attractions. Western Iran is also popular, with mountains in the north ideal for trekking and a spread of ancient sites and ethnic groups keeping things interesting. More remote and less travelled are the Persian Gulf coast, with its Arabian feel, and the deserts and Silk Road trading cities of northeastern Iran. Much of southeastern Iran is currently off-limits — check before setting out. Let modern Iran trump preconceptions by sipping tea with students, seeing fine contemporary art, joining pilgrims at the shrine of Ayatollah Khomeini and walkers on a trail from Darband. At any time you can ride the cable car to near the summit of Mt Tochal or arrange a fascinating cultural cooking experience with Persian Food Tours. This region was the cradle of many civilisations. Wind through the sublime Aras River Valley, hunt lost Armenian churches and Assassin castles, explore hoodoo'd badlands and cling precariously to Howraman mountainsides on the wildest roads in the country. Empires have bloomed and withered here. Top sights are the Achaemenid capitol of Persepolis, the Sassanian centre at Firuz Abad, Safavid glories in Esfahan and the preserved desert city of Yazd. Experience desert hospitality: Garmeh is a classic oasis, Zein-o-din a restored caravanserai and Bavanat a somnolent town. Or stay with a family in Farahzad. Open navigation menu. Close suggestions Search Search. User Settings. Skip carousel. Carousel Previous. Carousel Next. What is Everand? Explore Ebooks. Bestsellers Editors' Picks All Ebooks. Explore Audiobooks. Bestsellers Editors' Picks All audiobooks. Explore Magazines. Editors' Picks All magazines. Explore Podcasts All podcasts. Difficulty Beginner Intermediate Advanced. Cancel anytime. Ebook 1, pages 10 hours. Read free for days. Read preview. About this ebook Lonely Planet Iran is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Language English. Publisher Lonely Planet. Release date Sep 1, ISBN Read more. Read more from Simon Richmond. Lonely Planet Russia. Save Lonely Planet Russia for later. Lonely Planet Southeast Asia on a shoestring. Save Lonely Planet Southeast Asia on a shoestring for later. Lonely Planet Myanmar Burma. Save Lonely Planet Myanmar Burma for later. 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Write a review Review must be at least 10 words. Iran is the jewel in Islam's crown, combining glorious architecture with a warm-hearted welcome. In the Footsteps of Empire Echoes of ancient civilisations resonate down through the ages in Iran. The Beauty of Islam Iran is a treasure house for some of the most beautiful Islamic architecture on the planet. Redefining Hospitality Across Iran, a nation made up of numerous ethnic groups and influenced over thousands of years by Greek, Arab, Turkic and Mongol occupiers, you'll find the people are endlessly welcoming. Iran's Top 16 Meet the People In any competition for the title of the world's friendliest people, Iranians would be definite finalists. Money Bring enough cash in US dollars or euros for the duration of your trip. Visas A valid Iranian visa is required. A Prices in hotels go up and availability goes down in April. A September and especially October temperatures moderate; good for mountain trekking. A Prices slightly lower than March to May. A Some mountain roads can be impassable. Useful Websites Lonely Planet www. Easypersian www. Important Numbers Drop the 0 when dialling an area code from abroad. Museums 9am-6pm summer, until 4pm or 5pm winter, some closed on Mon. Restaurants noon-3pm, pm. Travel Agencies 9am-5pm Sat-Wednesday, 7. Arriving in Iran Imam Khomeini International Airport, Tehran Fixed price taxi into town: IR,, depending on vehicle type; rip-offs are unusual if you use the official taxi queue. Savari Shared taxis that are usually quicker than buses; far less comfortable. Train Links most major cities but departures are much less frequent. First Time Iran Checklist A Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months past your arrival date. A Arrange for appropriate travel insurance. A Don't be too ambitious — Iran is big and trying to see everything can lead to frustration. A Learn some Farsi before you go — a sure way to make local friends. What to Wear Few questions occupy the minds of first-time female visitors to Iran quite like the question of what to wear. Sleeping Choice is limited to fairly uninspiring hotels and basic local lodging houses away from the main tourist circuit and larger cities. Camping With few official camping areas, camping is rarely appropriate. Bargaining In general prices in shops are fixed. Tipping Tipping is not a big deal in Iran. Etiquette Iranians are generally quite forgiving of Westerners for any minor cultural transgressions — they don't expect you to know all of the rules. Some useful things to remember, however: A Dress modestly. This applies to both men and women. A When invited to dinner take a tin of the local sweets eg gaz in Esfahan. A Take off your shoes when entering a home or a mosque. Eating Iran is an excellent place to eat out or in, if you're lucky enough to be invited to a meal in a local family home. Restaurants Found across the country; most serve ash-e jo pearly-barley soup and salad as standard starters At home Possibly the best food you'll ever taste. Iranian Food Ardabil Possibly the sweetest town in Iran, famous for its honeycomb, black halva 'pest' and myriad confectioners. Ancient Civilisations Persepolis The full glory of the Achaemenid period in one magnificent former summer capital. Qeshm Island Experience the fast-disappearing Bandari Arab way of life in the coastal villages of Tabl or Shibderaz Getting Active Alborz trekking Iran's best hiking with trails possible from both the Karaj and Alamut sides. Bazaars Bazar-e Bozorg, Esfahan Sprawling, historic and endlessly fascinating; feels like a Persian fairy tale. Zurkhaneh, Yazd Uniquely Iranian show of male strength with mystical undertones. February February is often the coldest month, which is good for skiing but otherwise not the most pleasant time to travel the country. May With mild temperatures, May is a good month to travel in Iran but it's still high season. October With moderate temperatures and no snow to block roads, October is a pleasant time to travel, and many Iranians take a break. November Winter is coming and with it the cold and snow. December A cold time to visit as the winter chill really kicks in except on the Persian Gulf. Expect cold, clear skies, low golden light and snow-dusted hills — Western Iran in particular is at its most photogenic z Yalda Iran celebrates Yalda, the longest night of the year. Women need to be adequately covered from the moment they get off the plane or arrive at the border. Arriving without a visa is risky, as the visa-on-arrival process sees a lot of people turned away. Types of Visa Tourist visa Issued for up to 30 days and extendable. How Do I Do It? DIY Deal with an Iranian embassy or consulate directly. Who Needs A Visa? Which Visa? Tourist Visa There are two ways to get a tourist visa. At the time of writing, to obtain the visa on arrival the following were required: A a printout of your travel insurance. In practice this can be a hotel; it is strongly recommend you have a night booked at the hotel you name and that you carry a printout of an email from the hotel confirming your reservation, although this is not an official requirement to get the visa; A the requisite fee. Tricky questions: A Email If asked for one, opt for something generic and avoid. Entry Visa Business Visa To get a day extendable business visa you must obtain an invitation letter from the company or organisation you plan to visit. If you do overstay, even by a few hours, expect to be detained. Before You Go One of the main considerations when planning a trip to Iran is whether to travel independently, take a tour or do a bit of both. Group Most organised tours start and finish in Tehran, with a quick look around the capital before concentrating on the must-sees: Shiraz and Persepolis, Esfahan and Yazd, with a couple of short diversions thrown in. Iranian Operators Also see the Tours listings in the On the Road chapters for recommendations of individual guides and other local operators. Regions at a Glance Iran is a big country and while cheap, efficient transport means nowhere is beyond reach, few people make it to all corners in a single trip. Regions at a Glance Tehran First Impressions Let modern Iran trump preconceptions by sipping tea with students, seeing fine contemporary art, joining pilgrims at the shrine of Ayatollah Khomeini and walkers on a trail from Darband. Scenic Roads Wind through the sublime Aras River Valley, hunt lost Armenian churches and Assassin castles, explore hoodoo'd badlands and cling precariously to Howraman mountainsides on the wildest roads in the country. Desert Hospitality Experience desert hospitality: Garmeh is a classic oasis, Zein-o-din a restored caravanserai and Bavanat a somnolent town. Regions at a Glance. Start your free days. Home Ebooks Middle East Travel.

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