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Located in the outskirts of town, the bamboo train, or nori , is essentially a bamboo flatbed on wheels , which is powered by a small motorcycle or tractor engine. The rail line stretches all the way down to the capital of Phnom Penh, but the tracks lie in complete abandon and disrepair, meaning the bamboo ride only runs 7 kilometres in length to a nearby village and back. The bamboo train was the first stop along our tuk-tuk tour of the Cambodian countryside. As we reached the start of the line our tuk-tuk driver Mr. The government has plans to rebuild the rail lines all the way to the Thai border in the northeastern part of the country, and all the way south to the beach town of Sihanoukville. That being said, this project was aimed to be completed several years ago, and that is still in the works, so maybe there is no rush after all…. Sitting on straw mats that had been laid over the bamboo platform, I held onto whatever I could and the contraption quickly began to pick up speed. This thing can go up to 40 kilometres an hour! I peeked down through the cracks at the rail tracks below, but it was all a blur of colour and sound. I had to yell to be heard, but even then the wind carried half of my words away. With the wind blowing in my hair, and the speed plastering a smile on my face, we chugged past fields, across rickety bridges, and through stretches of bush. Locals walked on the tracks and only hopped off when the train was almost upon them. When we reached the village that lies at the end of the tracks, the atmosphere changed. Our driver quickly disappeared before we even had a chance to look over our shoulders. A girl approached us and told us that the train would be making a mandatory minute stop here. Maybe our driver wanted to grab a quick breakfast or have a restroom break…. Wait here, buy drink. Drink is one dollar. You buy drink. No other trains had arrived yet, and we were the only ones there. He started turning the bamboo train around, and while he was doing so, another woman approached us. Our driver, who had not smiled at us or been friendly in any way. Our driver, who had wandered off for 20 minutes without explanation only to return with a sour look on his face. We explained to her that we had already paid our driver at the start of the line, but the woman insisted that we needed to tip our driver and she would not go away. The demands were getting outright bold, and frustration was mounting on our side. All I could think of was the confrontation that might take place once we reached the other side. When we finally arrived at start of the line, we hopped off the train, saw our tuk-tuk driver Mr. Bay, and went straight towards him. I know how horrible that sounds. A tip is meant to be a reward for good services, and in this case, it would have been rewarding bad behaviour. I also thought it was over-hyped in the guidebooks. Interesting to read about your more recent experience, though! I did enjoy blasting through the fields, but the end of the line kind of spoiled it for me. I watched Anthony Bourdain ride one of those standing up, on an episode of No Reservations. And I first saw it when little Ian rode one one on Lonely Planet. What a bummer! I was getting so hyped at the beginning—wild, rickety bamboo ride… then BAM totally taken advantage of. What a shame to spoil the experience for you and a shame for Cambodian tourism, really. Yeap, been in your situation before. I have just been on the original bamboo train with my partner. At the end of the track we were invited to sit down. After our ride finished we were told to tip the driver. I think it was worth every penny and it is the highlight of my Cambodia trip so far. Definitely recommend!! Ive not been on the bamboo train, but looks like I sound avoid it in the future! I hate being put in situations like that when you feel so pressurised — your right, a tip sh0uld be for good service, not bad, and no amount of pressurising should make you tip. Thanks for sharing your experiences. I would have done the same thing you did. Good job for not giving in, hopefully enough people will do what you did. What a pitty. The bamboo train experience seems to be so cool. I went with my family on the bamboo train and had a very different experience. I think perhaps it was because we took the ride with out tuk tuk driver and he was an excellent guide. We did see the ladies trying to sell and we were thirsty so buying a drink was no big deal. We walked over to the brick factory and got a great tour for free, it was fabulous and we chatted with many locals there. They even showed the kids how to make the bricks and let them try. I can understand the feeling of being pressured and how frustrating that is but at the same time I try to keep my thoughts on compassion, knowing how much less they have. It is no excuse really to treat people badly or expect things from others but it helps me at least not feel so frustrated. Good luck with the rest of Cambodia. Overall, I really did enjoy my time in Cambodia. I totally agree with you. I may skip this if I ever go to Cambodia. The ladies at the drink stall were kind of pushy and we just ignored them. Oh that brought back so many memories of that bumpy ride, the most fun I have had on four wheels. Except, as you point out the tippy tippy tippy demands, downright annoying. I have heard other mixed reviews about the bamboo train in Battambang, but none of them really mentioned the browbeating that occurs at the end of the line. I understand a little bit of what that is like as we have had similar experiences in Vietnam. As you know, tipping is not really very common in Asia, however, we try to be good travelers and give tips when we take tours or take part in activities where we have a guide. When we did a day trip from Hanoi, part of the day involved being paddled down a river by local people, and our tour guide warned us they would ask for tips at the end. I was half tempted at that point to just walk off and give her nothing, because my feeling is that if you are going to be ungrateful about a tip when I have already purchased a ticket for your service, then you get nothing. Wow, that sounds like a sticky situation you guys experienced in Hanoi. What a shame the experience was ruined! I had an equally sour experience with a cyclo driver in Ho Chi Minh City. It is annoying when that happens. It works for them so they keep doing it. The ride sounds like a unique experience at least! I completely agree with you. It can be really overwhelming to have so many people asking for help wherever you go. I took the bamboo train and have to agree… it just felt like a tourist trap… too bad. That sounds unpleasant. Sad face. I walked into a convenience store in the US the other day and there was tip jar on the counter! For what? Ringing me up? I remember that Jess and I felt the same about it when we were in Battambang last year. The guidebook had made it seem as if it was possible to just hop on with local workers who take the train, which might have been true a few years back, but when we got there, it was definitely just for tourists. We enjoyed the ride even though it was kinda terrifying!! Yeah, there was no hopping on with locals when I was there either. It sounds like we had really similar experiences there. You know, I have heard alot of people reccomending the bamboo train but this is the first time I heard a bad story about it. I hate situations like that where you feel utterly trapped by demands for money. Oh well, what can you do? Just try to forget the negative experience. There is nothing I hate more than just being looked at as a dollar sign. Sounds like that how you two were treated. I had a friend that did this and had read about this behaviour. So she nipped it in the bud. Surprise surprise … it was a fantastic experience and she tipped him because he even told the pushy vendors to back off. I am surprised about the tipping thing. Usually Cambodians are very honest and when you agree a price that is usually the price you have to pay at the end. I would have expected that in Vietnam where I got ripped off 3 times in one day by moto and taxi drivers but not in Cambodia. A real shame. I hope it is not getting like that in the rest of the country too. The fee for the train goes to the owner of the train. The driver is not the owner. No, I disagree. The killer part is when you go into something with one expectation, enjoy a beautiful start and then get the hard sell when you are most relaxed and unprepared. Guess now I have to love the ride and mentally prepare myself for the rest. All I can say is that I had the most delightful ride both ways, had a marvelous afternoon and completely missed out on any problems. The people were delightful, the brickworks a vision of exhausting hard work in the most primitive of conditions and the ride an experience not to be missed while it is still there! Incidentally, when you meet a train coming the other way some sort of negotiation takes place between the drivers and one train, whichever one loses out I suppose, is dismantled and removed from the track. The other one then pulls through and continues on its journey after which the first train is reassembled to continue on its merry way. The patient stoicism of the crews really is a joy to behold. After an experience like that I tipped anyway — at the end of the two-way journey. Anyway, do not be put off by what you have read. Go, try to remain philosophical about any cash transactions, and then just grin your way through a truly and utterly uniqe and joyful experience! Did the fact that it was ten dollars not tip you off that it was a tourist trap? No biggie. But, lighten up. I am guilty too. After reading this blog, I was very skeptic to go on the bamboo train, we were staying in Siem Reap and had been previously advised by a lone traveller in Bangkok to make the effort to go as it will soon be no more and is a great experience. We decided to go with it, the bus journey was not particularly enjoyable! Off we went to the bamboo train and upon arrival a police man greeted us, asked where we were from — the usual. We gladly paid a local with a beer in his hand and then our driver came, a young boy. The effort that these young men put into carting the bamboo trains about is unreal. Off we set and we instantly loved it, locals waving and smiling as we pass. When we arrived at the other end, I knew about the hassling and decided to walk straight passed the children and mothers asking you to buy a drink or souvenir and visit the brick factory. We then decided to head back to the bamboo train but our driver was resting so we decided to have a can of beer. The driver called us over for our return journey, on the way he had to stop for on coming trains and he shared his berries with me that he picked off a tree which I thought was lovely. The lady at the shop did ask us to tip our driver however I understand why. I went on the bamboo train recently and everyone hops off to be met by pushy hawkers. The girls spoke very good English and gave us a tour of the factory. Hopefully others enjoy a similar experience! I did the bamboo train a couple of times in as being a tourleader and i recently did it again. Prices have increased rapidly! The locals found out there is some money to be made of wealthy western toourist i guess! I completely disagree. We were also told that we would take a twenty minute break in a little village at the end of the line. Yes as always is aisa you are hassled but what do you expect these people have nothing. We chatted to a really old guy about hai Khmer Rouge experiences and then a lovely lady called Vo who taught us how to make braclets. Yes they want your business but they also just want to talk and be friendly. We bought two beers and say and chatted with our driver and the locals for half an hour. It was a great experience. I think this was completely over exaggerated. No one got hurt and no one forced anything upon you. Lighten up and be friendly and you will go further on your travels. I personally liked the Bamboo Train and thought its a cool experience even though its overpriced. You did the right thing!. The people who accept these aggressive tactics are not helping them develop a sustainable tourism industry. Good job for standing for your principles! Did get told three times to tip, but we walk away from the row and only the kids followed. But WE Sure did and I am going back with my son daughter and the other halves this coming year. I enjoyed the train but wish someone would have warned us to wear earplugs. I had no idea it was going to be that loud on the train. Unfortunately we never saw or heard about that one until after we left. Had exactly the same bad experience! I am a solo traveler and when arrived at the train they told me I could share to save some money, but then every time I could share the ride with a group, the driver always said they were already too many. When o finally decided to pay the entire amount of 10 dollars which is NOT little my trip stopped at the village and when I refused to buy a cool drink they told me my trip ended there and we had to go back while other travelers had been way much further. And of course, on my way back I met many other trains coming my way with loads of travelers on top. So, exactly like you, as much as I was elated on the way out I was frustrated on the way back. Has anyone been to the US? That bugs me way more than the Cambodian people who have recently come through the Khmer Rouge, landmines, working 5am — 9pm every day to work their way up to a small improvement and then no tourism because of covid for 2 years. I have enough to give tips to everyone who provides a service for me. For the most part, they are the happiest people I ever met even when they have nothing, and they will share it with you. I rode the train in I really enjoyed it. There were a number of us and we picked up a farm labourer on the way. Your email address will not be published. South Africa. If you make a purchase using one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep this content free. Riding the bamboo train nori in Battambang, Cambodia. Views from the Bamboo Train of the track and scenery in Battambang, Cambodia. Lifting the bamboo train off the tracks so others can pass. Village at the end of the bamboo train line, Battambang Cambodia. Engine on a bamboo train in Battambang, Cambodia. Bamboo train tracks in Battambang, Cambodia. Join the Conversation 65 Comments. Did you say something about it to your tuk-tuk driver? Oh I missed it! Looks like you guys had loads of fun. I would have done exactly what you guys did — not tipped, and not looked back. I read your blog which has the most important information about train. I was on this amazing Railway late in and toured the brickworks. For the sheer exhileration and joy of the experience a tip is surely a minimum must. Thanks Mike, heading to B-bang on Monday and will certainly do the train and brickworks! Leave a comment Leave a comment Cancel comment. Search for: Search.
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At the end of the track we were invited to sit down. We bought 2 cokes $1 each. After our ride finished we were told to tip the driver. I gave him $2 which is.
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