My good friends, Josh and Amy, recently renovated their attic and were able to close off some of the “unusable” space into a secret room. Josh has wanted to have a secret room his entire life, and with their first child on his way soon, the recent renovation was the perfect way to make it happen. The whole idea is for his son, in about four years, to find a secret playroom in his house! The renovation left an opening for me to build the bookcase in, framed out simply as a short door frame. Even though the walls are new construction, the floor and ceiling have been around since the 1920’s. Old construction adds a whole lot of variables to making built in cabinetry, and I definitely ran into lots of hurdles because of it. There are still several things to go back and fix up, even though it’s “complete”. I need to add quarter round at the bottom, touch up some paint and paint the backside of the cabinet to mask some of the modifications that I had to make mid-project.
Ultimately, I spent a lot of time, trimming, sanding, shimming and adjusting to make the cabinet fit, roll, open and close like I wanted it to, but it was TOTALLY worth it. My friend is extremely happy with it, and it ended up working better than I ever thought it would! This project was partially supported by Nicholas Gomez on Patreon! Thanks to Nicholas for all of his awesome support! Here’s what you’ll need: (purchasing via these affiliate links supports ILTMS) Skil Circular Saw Kit Tool Time Gate Latch Cable Pull 5″ Heavy-Duty Fixed Caster (2) The front face was made with pocket holes and fits the opening of the room. Add pieces for the fronts of the shelves. The cabinet is made from MDF, sized to the inside dimensions of the face frame. Counter sink screws to strengthen the cabinet. Make pocket holes on the side panels, to connect the face frame. Glue on the frame, line up the corners and brad nail it in place.
Permanently connect the face frame with pocket hole screws. Using a square, draw reference lines for placing the shelves. Cut MDF for shelves, and drill pocket holes in the underside. Using glue, line up the shelves, before screwing them in on all sides. Fill holes on the frame with wood filler, then sand smooth. Add 1/8″ plywood to each shelf with a few brads, making it easy to remove in case of emergency. Glue on a reinforcing strip on the back of the hinge side of the frame. Use the included template to place the hinges. These hidden hinges work great for this application. Drill holes, per hinge instructions. Clean out the mortise with a knife and chisel. Place the hinge, pre drill the holes, then screw them in place. Attach heavy duty casters, angled AWAY from the hinge side. Cut pieces of wood, and wrap them in a book cover. Set the cabinet in place, and mark the center of the hinge. Cut hinges as before.
Screw hinges to the door frame. Make a bracket the same depth as the cabinet, to hold the latch. Add pocket holes, for attaching it to the door frame. Screw the bracket to the door frame, from both sides. Attach the stationary part of the latch to the bracket. Add a support and the latch to the back of the cabinet. Add a handle to close the door from inside. Make sure everything closes and is lined up correctly. Cut out a slot, above the latch, for the wire to pass through. Add an eyelet and thick gauge wire to the back of the book. Using a hinge, connect the book to the shelf. Feed the wire through the slot you made previously. Attach the wire to the latch. Adjust so that the book opens and closes the latch. Take your time, adjust as needed, and it will work out great! Product Dimensions21.1 x 12.2 x 3.8 cm #16,662 in Automotive (See top 100) in Automotive > RV Parts & Accessories > Awnings, Screens & Accessories
in Sports & Outdoors > Outdoor Gear > Camping & Hiking Shipping Weight91 g (View shipping rates and policies) Date First AvailableDec 8 2011 Would you like to give feedback on images or tell us about a lower price? Writing as B.B. Pelletier Have you already read this blog, and you’re now waiting for a new one? Maybe you missed yesterday’s blog… This report was accidentally published on Thursday — along with the regular Thursday blog. This is only the second time in nearly 10 years and 2,500+ reports this has happened. As soon as I discovered it Thursday morning, it was unpublished and rescheduled for today. Sorry about that, but I’m already working at max capacity and can’t have two fresh blogs competing with each other! • I saw it at the Pyramyd Air Cup • What is it? • But does it work? • Can be applied to most spring guns • At the range I remember back in the late 1990s when Gamo first started making their high-velocity claims for spring rifles, I tested a Hunter Extreme 1250 to see if it met spec.
To my utter surprise — it did. My .177-caliber test rifle shot RWS Hobby pellets as fast as 1257 f.p.s.! Unfortunately, that was about all the rifle did. It was too large, very heavy and required over 50 lbs. of effort to cock. And when it fired, it felt like three broken cuckoo clocks rattling around inside a trash can! Oh, and did I mention that I couldn’t hit anything with it? Or that the trigger felt like a screen door latch on a warped door? Gamo had just one thing in the Hunter Extreme 1250 — bragging-rights speed. They gave up everything else to get it — accuracy, smooth shooting, easy cocking and a good trigger. I saw it at the Pyramyd Air Cup So, I was at the Pyramyd Air Cup several weeks ago, and a man introduced himself and started asking me what I think of the Hatsan 135. I told him straight out that I wouldn’t review the rifle because it’s too difficult to cock. I think 75 lbs. is too much to ask of anyone. And the recoil is off the charts!
The rifle hauls off and slaps you in the face with the stock while simultaneously punching you in the shoulder like a pledge night initiation. Then, he asked what I think of the Gamo Hunter Extreme 1250, and I launch into the tirade that opened this report. He tells me he has created a wonderful tune for these powerful springers that smooths them out and makes them very pleasant to shoot. This happens more often than I would like to admit — someone invents perpetual motion and wants me to watch it work. So I called him out. “Show me the beef,” I said. We went to his car and grabbed several rifle cases, then headed to the Pyramyd Air Cup shooting range. I tried his Hatsan 135 first. It still takes too much effort to cock, but the shooting cycle was smoother than a factory rifle. Next, I tried the .22-caliber Gamo Hunter Extreme 1250. The rifle worked as advertised. Gamo’s Hunter Extreme 1250 was a big, beautiful wood-stocked magnum rifle. Most of today’s guns have synthetic stocks but similar powerplants.
The man, who I will now reveal as Rich Shar, asked if I would like to test this rifle for you. Two weeks later it’s sitting in my office in Texas. What I’m going to test is a rifle model that’s no longer made, but that’s no problem. Gamo is still making plenty of testosterone-laden breakbarrels that perform identically to this one. What I’m looking at could also be in your future. Rich was very secretive about what he did to this rifle, but I know a few things about spring guns in general. He must have found a way to tighten the tolerances inside the Gamo powerplant. I’ll guess that Rich has taken out the extra room (the slop, if you will) from the powerplant, and he’s done it with low-friction materials. But Rich’s tune has to be something simple enough to be done quickly by technicians in a shop. That way, the labor costs can be held low. An hour of shop time costs $75 and up these days — figure 4 times the hourly wage of the worker to cover the overhead, and then throw a little profit on top — so saving time is a big deal.
But does it work? If I expected the smoothness of a TX200 in the cocking cycle of this Gamo, I was disappointed. As the rifle cocked, I could feel the individual mainspring coils slipping over the cocking shoe in typical mega-magnum spring rifle fashion. If I expected the lightness of a Diana 34 cocking effort, I was again disappointed. I had to employ my other hand to finish cocking the gun. Rich informed me that the powerplant was exactly as Gamo made it, except for some small but important additions he made. Okay — I thought — here we go, again. This guy has invented anti-gravity, but it doesn’t work when the sun is shining. Then I shot the gun, and — nothing! No slap in the face from a jar of angry hornets; no punch in the shoulder from a rabid mule. Just the sound of the rifle firing and the thwack of my pellet hitting the target almost simultaneously. This rifle did not shoot like a Gamo Hunter Extreme 1250. It shot like a tuned Beeman R9! So, I’m sitting there at the bench, smiling, because for the first time I’ve shot a Gamo Hunter Extreme that I’d be proud to own.
Yes, it’s hard to cock, and yes, I can feel the mainspring crunch as the barrel breaks down; but when it fires, it transforms into this unbelievably smooth spring gun. I’m going to call in the credibility card now. I was honest with you about the buzzing of the FWB Sport, so I will not hide bad performance from you. This Gamo Hunter Extreme is really smooth! To my knowledge, no other Hunter Extreme has ever been this smooth. This is worth investigating! Can be applied to most spring guns Rich tells me his invention can be applied to most spring rifles. He picked the Hatsan 135 and the Gamo Hunter Extreme because they recoil the most of all spring guns, and they also vibrate painfully. If he could get them shooting smoothly, he felt he could improve any spring rifle. The Gamo Hunter Extreme is a large, heavy spring rifle that weighs 10.50 lbs. with the obsolete CenterPoint (Leapers) 4-16X40 scope mounted. The barrel is 17.50 inches long,and the pull measures 14.50 inches.