I have had my share of accidentally-eaten Lego pieces-specially the 1x1 bricks that I used to keep in my mouth when I was a kid-which actually explains the weird chemical components that always pop up in my blood tests. Some of them, anyway. What is important here is that someone has actually come up with a way to mix two of the most important inventions in the History of Civilization-Lego bricks and gummy candies-into one single product that you can make at home: Lego gummy bricks. Yes, I know, they look-and probably are-as delicious as the real ones. The concept is rather simple: Grab a Lego surface, a few Lego pieces, silicon to make a negative mold, cook the candy liquid, pour in, and let it cool down until it solidifies into transparent brick goodness, Lego logo included. Some people would say that this may encourage kids to eat actual Lego pieces. As I said, I ate a lot of myself and here I'm. Mentally perturbed, but alive. Head to Instructables for the step-by-step instructions.
Alternatively, you can buy the factory-made Kellogg's Lego Fun Snacks, obviously created to teach kids that Lego bricks taste great. Instructions Lego Star Wars Anakin Skywalker's Podracer #ST03 Venator Star Destroyer #ST04 Executor Super Star Destroyer #ST05 Boba Fett's Slave 1 #ST06 Naboo Royal Starship #ST11 Jabba's Sail Barge #ST15 Rebel Blockade Runner #10019 Naboo N-1 Starfighter #10026 Imperial Star Destroyer #10030 Death Star II #10143 TIE Advanced x1 #10175 Imperial Lambda Shuttle #10212 Executor Super Star Destroyer #10221 TechLUG a été créé pour regrouper la communauté des fans francophones de Lego Technic et Lego Star Wars. Sur le site, vous trouverez entre autres les reviews de bon nombre de modèles Technic. Avec les sets Ultimate Collector Series, le thème Star Wars est aussi très présent. Faites comme des centaines de passionnés, rejoignez-nous sur le forum pour partager votre passion !
The LEGO corporation has produced a number of Star Wars Movie Shorts. Most of them feature one of the LEGO Star Wars sets. They are published on the LEGO Star Wars portal. The first set was a series of comics taking place during the Clone Wars. Season three of the comics had two versions of five episodes, a Light Side and a Dark Side. Season four of the movie shorts had two versions of five episodes, a Good one and a Bad one. It features a storyline about a bounty hunter raid to acquire a Jedi holocron. These are all in two-parts. The first videos take place during the Clone Wars The later videos tie into The New Yoda Chronicles episode Escape from the Jedi Temple and are produced by WilFilm Production and written by Michael Price.Pimp your ikea lamp into a customized death star Ikea hacks are well widespread in the maker movement and David Bliss, founder at Nurun, did a great job transforming the Death Star inspired PS 2014 Pendant Lamp into something more dynamic.
The lamp was pimped up with an Arduino Uno and Arduino Motor Shield, NeoPixel LEDs and other components you can see in the illustration. The detailed description of the project is on his blog , the code on github and the final result in the following video: This entry was posted by Zoe Romano on Thursday, November 27th, 2014 and is filed under Arduino, Featured, Motor, shield. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site. You must be logged in with your Arduino account to post a comment.Sign in with Facebook A verification email was sent to Please check your email and click on the verification link to proceed. Enter your email used in your BrickLink profile. A password reset link will be sent to your inbox. We emailed a code to reset your password. Please enter that code: If you haven't received the email, check your junk, spam, or other folders.
Enter your new password to sign in: Reset and Sign In7134 A-Wing Fighter is a Classic Star Wars set released in 2000. It is the first A-Wing model released by LEGO. Included with the set are A-Wing Pilot and Rebel Mechanic minifigures. The set features a red and light grey coloured A-wing starfighter. The ship has a laser cannon and concussion missile launcher mounted on each side of the ship's body, and the weapons have the ability to rotate around. The A-wing's cockpit transparent window can be opened and closed by the use of hinge pieces towards the front of the ship, and three landing struts are present on the bottom of the ship for the ship to stand on. This model has two engines at the rear of the ship, which have circular transparent yellow pieces on the ends to represent the engines being on. Behind the cockpit is an area at the back which can be folded up to reveal a storage container, which can be removed from the ship. The set also includes two minifigures- a Rebel Mechanic with a black spanner or wrench, and an A-Wing Pilot.
Both of these minifigures are exclusive to this set. The RZ-1 A-wing interceptor was a starfighter designed by the Rebel Alliance, and was well-known for being one of the fastest mass-produced starfighters in the known galaxy. The A-wing was armed with two laser cannons and two concussion missile launchers, and had light shielding and armour. Green Squadron was an Alliance A-wing squadron, and they participated in the Battle of Endor. Green Leader was killed when his A-wing crashed into and destroyed the bridge of the Super Star Destroyer Executor, leading to the destruction of the vessel as it plunged into the second Death Star. Pilot the A-Wing – the fastest Rebel fighter! Fearless Rebel pilots zoom through the skies in the speedy A-Wing. It has two wing-mounted pivoting blaster cannons, and a cockpit that opens and closes. Comes with one Rebel pilot and a mechanic minifigures!) I have done with LDraw. I really don't think the other two ways are good for serious models.
LDD limits you in part placement... if it doesn't think you can place parts together a certain way, it won't let you. Good if you're a kid trying to doodle, but not good if you know the model already does what you are trying to capture. LDraw does not impose those limits.Photographs, no matter how good, miss nuances that isometric renderings with enhanced edge lines bring out.LDraw is a modeling standard so what that answer really means is that youuse your favorite LDraw compatible CAD program to capture your model (I prefer MLCad)Generate images of each step and substep (I do this with Ldglite but you can do it from within MLCad)Use a layout program to arrange the images into instructions. I did it in MS Word but most people nowadays use LPub... LPub also handles step 2.(Extra Credit) - Generate a ray traced image of your design, possibly with a background. I use L3Lab to convert LDraw format to POV format, and POVRay to do the ray tracingThis is a very sketchy answer, there is lots more to this topicThere are some excellent books on this topic.
You should check them out if you really are interested. /Note that you may find other tools you like better. for more info on all this.Here is my current process as a PC user:Typically, I will start by building as much of a model in LDD as I can. LDD's greatest strengths, in my experience, are that (1) every element is set up for part-snapping, including clips, studs, etc and (2) the hinge tool. LDD has pivot points for most parts hard-coded, so unlike other software where you have to tediously adjust the pivot (or in MLCad's case, place extra parts to "fool" the software into using a different pivot) the hinge tool in most cases just works. If you have other parts attached to a hinge they will rotate along with it just like they should.LDD also usually has the most up-to-date parts library, but this can be a disadvantage as well as an advantage as I'll discuss later.LDD is useless for generating actual instructions, its automated process has little concept of what makes instructions clear and it places parts in sequences that make no sense and are often impossible.
It also is the most strict with its placement rules, which means you will often run into situations that are perfectly possible in the real world but LDD will simply not allow you to do. So once I get to a certain point, I always export from LDD to Ldraw and continue from there.My current Ldraw editor of choice is LDCad by Roland Melkert. LDCad is smart, feature-rich, and very stable on everything I've installed it on. Best of all it's (at the time of this writing) in active development - Melkert is constantly taking in suggestions and improving it, and it's already miles beyond most other editors out there - truly the modern editor we've all been waiting for.Once I've loaded the exported .ldr in LDCad, the steps I take are (1) find all the parts that didn't export properly and replace them. Some just don't translate between the two formats and have disappeared, and often the LDraw parts library is missing newer parts I may have used, which means having to hunt down unfinished versions or finding alternate workarounds.
(2) Break up the model into submodels where applicable. (Select parts, right click, "reorganize"->"Move to submodel...") This is so they will export as their own little nested set of instructions within the larger document. (3) Break up the main model and each submodel into steps.Once I have all the steps established I will load the model briefly in MLcad if I want to add rotation steps. This is the one thing currently not handled by LDCad that I need MLcad for (well, and buffer exchange but I never get that detailed).Next I will move to LPub. LPub has tools to render out each step as images, lay them out on a page, add part lists, page numbers, the works. There is some very excellent LPub documentation by Jaco van der Molen here: Working with LPub Lastly I will export all pages from LPub as images and do final touch-ups in Photoshop. If this is unnecessary I will just export straight to .pdf and be done.All the programs I've mentioned (besides LDD) are included in the Ldraw all-in-one installer.