Wicker is a general term for woven furniture and accents, not a specific material. The term is used broadly for any item woven from synthetic to natural hard fibers such as rattan, bamboo, seagrass and more. The primary material used to create wicker is rattan “vine,” which is actually a name for more than 600 prolicic climbing plants. Some species can grow more than 300 feet in length—making rattan an abundant, sustainable resource. The production of wicker furniture often utilizes material from the entire plant: Peel, core, pole and all. When rattan’s outer skin or peel is removed and cut into thin strips, the resulting material is called cane. Rattan cane is used for weaving chair seats or wrapping joints on wicker furniture and is produced in many different gauges, ranging from carriage fine to the largest slab rattan. It has a natural glossy finish and does not accept stain or paint well, but is considered most beautiful in its natural state. Rattan cane packed in wet clay and allowed to season is known as Kubu or Kubu gray, due to its soft ashen color.
Kubu rattan is exceptionally strong and is prized by furniture-lovers for its distinctive dusky shade. Reed is the thin, flexible material inside the rattan core. Most often used for basket weaving, it may also function as an ornamental element in wicker furniture. Unlike cane, it has no natural finish and readily accepts paint or stain. Bamboo resembles rattan and is often mistaken for it. But unlike rattan, which is solid, bamboo has a hollow core. Bamboo also has distinguishing ridges where the leaves were attached, while rattan’s leaf nodes are not as pronounced. Made popular in 19th century England, willow or twig furniture is still crafted today, although the supple branches are now most often used in basketry. Willow can be soaked for flexibility and woven or bent to form graceful, rounded shapes. The term seagrass is used for a variety of flowering plants, such as water hyacinth, that grow in shallow coastal waters. Seagrasses are not related to seaweed but are more closely akin to the lily.
Leaves are generally long and narrow, resembling terrestrial grasses. Banana leaf furniture is made from natural banana fibers that are dried, twisted and braided into a rope. The rope is then woven over a frame to create furniture and basketry that is handsome and highly durable.White Glove In-Home Delivery available for this itemLearn moreSee Product Pricing in Your Area. Find a store based on your current location. To shop online at this location, please visit our Canadian site. The Stool 60 Giveaway. Sign up for our emails and a chance to win this ingenious stackable stool.Seats and Stools has the Largest Selection of Replacement Seats and Backs for your home, office, restaurant, bar, or business. We carry an extensive product line with replacement seating, replacement chair or barstool parts, replacment frames, and replacement parts for Breuer chairs and Breuer barstools. Chrome Dinette Chairs: Metal Frame Chairs and Barstools: Wood Frame Chairs and Barstools: Breuer Chrome Chairs and Barstools: Bucket Barstools Bucket Chairs: Restaurant and Bar seating: Table tops and Table bases.
We have many styles and sizes to choose from. With a large in stock selection of Wood, Vinyl and Fabric we can match your exisitng decor or help you create a brand new look for your home or business. All Custom Made in the USA. Don't see what you need? Call our friendly and knowledgeable Customer Service team at (866)967-3287Get a great night's sleep in a bed from Crate and Barrel. Create a focal point for the master bedroom sanctuary of your dreams, or fashionably furnish the kids' room or guest room with a quality bed, headboard or frame from our large assortment of styles, materials, colors and designs in just the size you need. Learn more about the bed options we offer.Types of BedsPlatform Beds—Platform bed frames don't require the expense of a box spring, and offer a clean, simple design.Upholstered Beds—Our upholstered beds soften a room and are available in many fashionable colors and family-friendly fabrics.Headboards—A bed created with a headboard attached to a separate bed frame doesn't have the hard edges of a footboard, which allows for easier movement around the foot of the bed.
This smaller footprint makes them well-suited for smaller spaces. We offer upholstered, tall and wooden headboards—all of which provide great visual interest to your room.Bed Frames—Whether referring to the support structure of a wooden or metal bed design, or the basic minimal metal base that attaches to a headboard and supports a mattress and box spring, our quality bed frames designed to last.Storage Beds—Storage beds cleverly utilize underbed space with built-in drawers. They can also feature bookcase-style storage at the footboard for books, pillows, throws and more.Bed Sizes, Styles, Materials and ColorsWe offer all the popular bed sizes. All of our frames are available in roomy queen, king and California king sizes, and many of our frame designs are also available in twin and full sizes—great for kids' rooms, guest rooms and smaller spaces. Our bed frame designs can be made of durable powdercoated metal or crafted from a multitude of wood species such as oak, maple, teak, black walnut, reclaimed peroba, acacia, mindi and solid mango.
Our beds can be stained, lacquered or upholstered in colors such as white, black, charcoal grey, light grey and more.Upholstered beds and headboards are available in heavy-duty, pet- and kid-friendly synthetic fabrics as well as luxurious linen-cotton blends reminiscent of boutique hotels. Our bed and headboard collection contains all the latest styles and trends—modern, transitional, contemporary, mid-century—with thoughtful details such as button tufting, nailhead trim, cutout panels and more.Whatever kind of bed you're looking for, from sleigh bed to platform bed, slatted to tufted, rest assured that we have what you need for your calming retreat. Shop our complete collection of wooden and upholstered beds, headboards, and bed frames.Welcome back to Upholstery Basics, where we’ll be rolling up our sleeves and completing our first project together: a wrap-around seat. Of all seating, dining room chairs get the brunt of the abuse — a little vino here, red sauce there. If you’ve been glaring at those chairs and wondering how to give them that much-needed facelift, read on, and you’ll be transforming those eyesores into jaw-droppers in no time.
Read the full post on reupholstering dining chairs after the jump! Don’t forget to check out Upholstery Basics: Tool Time to learn more about the tools we’re using today. 1. Remove the seat from your chair frame by unscrewing the screws on the underside. If your seat drops into the frame, like mine, you may be able to pop it out without unscrewing it. Make sure to mark the orientation of the seat before removing. It may seem obvious, but it is imperative that we know which side is the front when we attach the fabric later. 2. Strip all of the old fabric, padding, staples and tacks off of the seat using your pliers and staple remover. Once you’re finished, you should be left with a wooden board. This is a good point to mark any screw holes, so you can avoid them as you attach new padding and fabric. 3. Flip the board upside down on top of the foam and trace the outside edge with a permanent marker. 4. Use the carving knife to cut out the shape. Don’t worry if the edges get a little ragged looking.
Just do your best to keep the blade straight up and down and not angled to one side or the other. 5. To create a slight domed shape to the seat, place a layer of cotton batting about an inch inside the edges of the board. Add extra layers if you’d like the crown of the seat to be more exaggerated. Just remember to make each additional layer of cotton slightly smaller than the one that precedes it. 6. Attach the foam to the board by stapling through the side of the foam and down into the wood. It’s best to work in opposites as you staple, so start with the back side and then move to the front. Then staple from the right to left side. Be careful not to push the foam back as you staple. We want the hard wooden edge to be padded, so it won’t show through the fabric. 7. Dacron will smooth out all of the imperfections and be the final layer of padding before the fabric. Once the foam is secured all the way around, tightly wrap Dacron around the edge and staple to the bottom of the board.
8. Trim off the excess Dacron gathered at the corners and around the bottom. 9. Now it’s time for the fabric! If you’re working with a pattern, decide where you’d like it placed on the seat. The rule of thumb is to place the top of the pattern at the back of the seat and the bottom of the pattern at the front of the seat. 10. To get started, staple the fabric at the back of the seat, but only put the staples in halfway by lifting one side of the staple gun up at an angle. These are called sub-staples and will allow you to pull them out very easily should you need to make adjustments. Once you’ve stapled the back, move on to the front. Then sub-staple the right and left sides. 11. Make a pleat in every corner by pulling the fabric from the sides around to the front and back. Fold under enough of the excess fabric to make the edges of the folds flush with the corners. Feel free to cut out bulky excess if you’re having trouble getting it all folded under the pleats, and use your regulator to get the fabric neatly tucked in.
12. Once you’re happy with where your fabric is placed, take out your sub-staples a few inches at a time and replace them with permanent staples that go in all the way. These will need to be closer together to make sure all the fabric is held down tightly. Keep a close eye on the edge as you go. The more consistent you are with the tightness of your pull, the smoother the fabric will look. Another tip: Pull with your palm instead of your fingertips to avoid puckers and dimples. 13. It’s looking like a finished seat now! After you’ve cut off the excess fabric, permanently staple the dustcover to the front side of the seat. 14. Then add a strip of cardboard tack on top for reinforcement. 15. Fold the dustcover over the tack strip toward the back of the seat. This is called a blind tack. Fold under the raw edge and staple to the back of the seat. Once you have the back secured, fold under the sides and staple. 16. If you have a seat that screws onto your chair frame, clear any holes of padding, fabric or dustcover and attach it to the chair.