Pine / 30"x80" / Reversible / Unfinished Pine / 30"x80" / Reversible / Unfinished View and manage your saved products USD $95.00 / each Add To Cart for Shipping Rate Golden Elite Doors Unfinished Pre-Hung Pine Sample Added to Cart 30" 4-Panel Pre-Hung Unfinished Pine Door with a solid core. Jambs with pre-attached butterfly hinges included, simply drill the hinges into the door and you are set.30" x 80" x 1-3/8"4-1/2" x 3/4" Pine Jambs includedChrome Butterfly Hinges with Ball Bearings includedNo machining requiredSolid Pine Core Common Size (W x H) (Inches) Rough Opening Width (Inches) Rough Opening Height (Inches) Residential Warranty (in years) Height: 80 Length: 1.38 Width: 30 WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Our internal and interior door range features a wide selection of designs from leading UK and worldwide manufacturers offering choices from moulded panel faces, to flush doors and solid timberChoose from the highest quality oak, Shaker, pine, hardwood, veneer and Paintgrade doors. A complete portfolio of standard core and fire rated doors is also available. and moulded doors have been constructed using thermally efficient materials to meet Building Regulations 'Part L'. are fully supported by our comprehensive guarantee through leading A comprehensive range of internal timber doors with excellent scope for use in a wide variety of situations. A wide choice range of internal moulded doors with excellent scope for use in a number of situations. Internal Veneer Flush Doors Internal flush doors are functional with excellent scope for use in a wide variety of situations. A selection of internal fire doors that achieve fire resistance for up to 30 minutes (FD30) or 60 minutes (FD60).
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But is it feasible for someone to make one with a handheld router? Would the inset middle area be smooth? If so, what type of bit would be best? tool-selection wood-selection router router-bit It is perfectly feasible to fab a shaker door from a solid slab of MDF. Routing out the interior flat area is a simple matter of proper jigging and depth control. But you will need to chisel-cut the inside corners and invest a lot of time sanding out the panel area. A router will not leave a 'finish' grade surface when the bit is acting as an end-mill. The best bit to use would be an up-spiral 3-flute bit with 1/2" shank. Bit diameter of 1/2" probably best when balancing strokes necessary to rout down versus difficulty. You'd need to set up two jigs - one as a perimeter jig and another as a platform to ride on the frame while routing down to panel surface.That approach is not the only approach to the "MDF Shaker Door" problem. With MDF as the material, and a router as your only tool (unless you say otherwise), the simplest approach I would suggest would be using two thicknesses of MDF, one for the frames and one for panels.
Rout the frame as a unit from the thicker stock, rout a rebate on the back side to accomodate that panel, chisel-clean the corners of these from rounded to square. Then rout the panels out of the thinner stock and glue the panels into the frames. That will get you there, but is wasteful of the thicker MDF stock (the lost middle parts), and the unsightly joint on the back side. To do this using the least amount of material, and again with only a router, approach it as a true panel door. Rout the Stiles and rails of the door as individual items from thicker stock, rout a groove into the inner-facing edge to receive the panel (groove size to match panel material). Rout the panels from the thinner MDF sheets. Rout out some splines from the thinner stock, to match depth of groove times 2 and as long as the stiles are wide. Assemble doors with glue, sliding splines in from ends until they contact the panel. So, no matter how you go about this you are in for a fair amount of labor.
My personal preference would be for the wasteful but simple way, as it asks the least sanding time after assembly. And in closing, I suggest that you reconsider using MDF at all if that is an option. While it is cheap and in common use it is really not the best stuff to use for a number of reasons. For an inexpensive shaker door, solid pine and pine ply panels would look as good and hold up better over time. And it's doable with just the router, using the last of the options I posted above. Not the best idea, you should try to maybe cut it into 3" strips and glue it back which should keep it from warping. You could go ahead but I am sure it is going to warp unless you do something about it. Nothing else to say. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google Sign up using Email and Password Post as a guest By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service. Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged tool-selection wood-selection router router-bit or ask your own question.