A comprehensive guide to our full range of internal and external doors. 6 Panel grained door 6 Panel grained bi-fold door 6 Panel grained 6 light glazed door 4 Panel grained door 4 Panel grained bi-fold door 4 Panel grained 2 light glazed door 6 Panel smooth door 4 Panel smooth door Arched Top grained door Arched Top grained 6 light glazed door Burford 4 Panel Door Burford 4 Panel 2 light glazed door Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I've seen people make raised panel doors out of one piece of MDF. I've also seen a professional machine make a shaker door out of one piece. But is it feasible for someone to make one with a handheld router? Would the inset middle area be smooth? If so, what type of bit would be best? tool-selection wood-selection router router-bit It is perfectly feasible to fab a shaker door from a solid slab of MDF.
Routing out the interior flat area is a simple matter of proper jigging and depth control. But you will need to chisel-cut the inside corners and invest a lot of time sanding out the panel area. A router will not leave a 'finish' grade surface when the bit is acting as an end-mill. The best bit to use would be an up-spiral 3-flute bit with 1/2" shank. Bit diameter of 1/2" probably best when balancing strokes necessary to rout down versus difficulty. You'd need to set up two jigs - one as a perimeter jig and another as a platform to ride on the frame while routing down to panel surface.That approach is not the only approach to the "MDF Shaker Door" problem. With MDF as the material, and a router as your only tool (unless you say otherwise), the simplest approach I would suggest would be using two thicknesses of MDF, one for the frames and one for panels. Rout the frame as a unit from the thicker stock, rout a rebate on the back side to accomodate that panel, chisel-clean the corners of these from rounded to square.
Then rout the panels out of the thinner stock and glue the panels into the frames. That will get you there, but is wasteful of the thicker MDF stock (the lost middle parts), and the unsightly joint on the back side. To do this using the least amount of material, and again with only a router, approach it as a true panel door. Rout the Stiles and rails of the door as individual items from thicker stock, rout a groove into the inner-facing edge to receive the panel (groove size to match panel material). Rout the panels from the thinner MDF sheets. Rout out some splines from the thinner stock, to match depth of groove times 2 and as long as the stiles are wide. Assemble doors with glue, sliding splines in from ends until they contact the panel. So, no matter how you go about this you are in for a fair amount of labor. My personal preference would be for the wasteful but simple way, as it asks the least sanding time after assembly. And in closing, I suggest that you reconsider using MDF at all if that is an option.
While it is cheap and in common use it is really not the best stuff to use for a number of reasons. For an inexpensive shaker door, solid pine and pine ply panels would look as good and hold up better over time. And it's doable with just the router, using the last of the options I posted above. Not the best idea, you should try to maybe cut it into 3" strips and glue it back which should keep it from warping. You could go ahead but I am sure it is going to warp unless you do something about it. Nothing else to say. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google Sign up using Email and Password Post as a guest By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service. Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged tool-selection wood-selection router router-bit or ask your own question. We offer a complete line of interior doors, from our elegant Raised Panel Moulding (RPM) series of MDF doors, to the southwestern style of Knotty Alder and Superior Alder interior and exterior doors, as well as our traditional shaker-style doors in primed MDF and vertical grain fir.
For a more refined look, we offer our beautiful and expressive line of Decorative Glass doors and our Louver door collection. With Simpson’s finest wood doors, we can transform any space from ordinary to extraordinary. This well-rounded mix of doors will fit any taste and home design. CoxUSA™ Sliding Closet Doors Masonite® Louver and Bifold Doors Trimlite™ Raised Panel Moulding Doors 1x3 boards (measuring 2 1/2" in width) preferably hardwood - I use poplar for paint grade 1" and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.
Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. PANEL - 1/2" hardwood plywood cut 5" less in height and width than desired finished door dimensions RAILS - 1x3 hardwood boards (measuring 2 1/2" in width) cut 5" less in length than the desired finished door dimensions STILES - 1x3 hardwood boards (measuring 2 1/2" in width) cut to desired finished door dimensions It's super important to get this plywood panel cut square and straight. If you can, cut with a miter saw or other fixed saw, or a table saw. If you are cutting with a ciruclar saw, use a straight edge or rip cut to guide you. Then drill 1/2" pocket holes around the four sides of the panel, about every 8" or so - use your best judgement here. You should do at least two pocket holes per side of the panel. Next, attach your rails to the top and bottom, through the 1/2" pocket holes with 1" pocket hole screws. The back will be flush and all outside edges must be flush. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on the ends of the rails for attaching the stiles in the next step.