Jeans, Drawings and ...See Morepin 11heart 1PinBob S WoodworkingWoodworking WhittlingWoodworking Tools WorkshopWoodworking TurningPost Apoc CampingBog ChairChair FireLarp CampsEvent CampForwardplank chair also called a bog chairSee Morepin 172heart 14PinRękami MasterMaster ClassLounger DesignChair DesignShower LoungerYard LoungerSlat LoungerDiy LoungerLoungersForwardМи знайшли нові піни для вашої дошки «меблі»See Morepin 4.1kheart 439PinReclaimed Sea Crest Modern Wood Wall Sculpture in Browns, Blues, Green, and White. This wood wall sculpture reminds me of the sea. The rich browns, blues, and greens combined with the choppy texture opin 623heart 67 You are not logged in: the resolution of the images is restricted to a maximum of 500px wide and 500px high. Shown images are of much lower quality, due to resizing. Login or register to remove this restriction. 682 x 558 px swimjay 4 years ago Would be great to see more detail in the joinery--how the wedges function, the joining of the angled planes, etc.
maluks 4 years ago melany 5 years ago stonybloke 5 years ago There are no details shown of the brass nuts and bolts which connect the seat with the diagonal and the diagonal and base. There are no screws involved, as you state. You can't make any comments, because you are not logged in. Log in or Register All the models in the Cassina collection, by merit of their artistic content and particular creative character, are protected by copyright, a legal institution that is universally recognised and safeguarded; legal protection is assured for the whole life-span of the author and for 70 years after his/her death (or the death of the last surviving co-author). LEGNO / WOOD / BOIS / HÖLZER 280 Cassina_Zigzag 111212.pdf (pdf) Home / Woodworking Plans / Furniture / Seating / ZigZag Rocking Chair Rocker ZigZag Rocking Chair Rocker Zero in on one key feature of this chair: It has just two legs. And where those legs meet the rockers, it appears the joint would snap the moment an adult sat down.
the cat who consigned this chair to auction in2 – 2x2s, 8′ long 1 – 2×3, stud length of 8′ long Scrap pieces of 1/4″ plywood or No Sag Springs (also called Zig-Zag or Sineous Springs) or Jute Webbing 1 – 15 1/2″ x 17 1/2″ x 2″ standard chair foam cushion (like this one) 1 yard 1/2″ thick foam batting 1 yard decorator weight fabric 1 1/4″ and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws OR 2″ and 3″ screws 2 – 2×2 @ 18 1/8″ (one end cut at 15 degrees, measurement to long point) 2 – 2×2 @ 15 3/8″ (one end cut at 15 degrees, measurement to long point) 1 – 1×2 @ 16 3/16″ (one end cut at 15 degrees, measurement to long point) 1 – 1×2 @ 14 1/2″ (Front Apron) 1 – 2×2 @ 14 1/2″ (Back Support) 1 – 2×2 @ 13″ (Back Base Support) 2 – 2×2 @ 16″ (Front Legs) 2 – 1×3 @ 14 1/2″ (Front and Back Aprons) 2 – 2×3 @ 13 1/2″ (one end cut at 15 degrees off square, measurement to short point)
2 – 2×2 @ 16 9/16″ (Both ends cut at 15 degrees, parallel to each other) I’m so proud of this chair design because it does not require you to cut chair back legs. But it is very very strong – passed the Ram test. Just make sure you use glue and 2″ screws to screw the 1×2 to the insides of the 2x2s as shown above. I also joined the 2x2s with pocket hole screws and a screw from the back. It is very important to create a strong joint here. Now just screw these on. I used pocket hole screws, but it would be easy to use 2″ screws on the front apron, and 3″ screws on the top. These are not structural joints and will be reinforced. This one is used to secure the back. I used pocket holes, but you can use 3″ screws and glue as well. Simply build the base as shown above. If you don’t have 2x3s, you can double up 1x3s. One trick if you are using pocket holes from the insides is to drill the holes as if you were using 3/4″ stock and use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Then your front legs won’t split out. Another means of strengthening up you base is to add corner bracing by cutting 2x2s with both ends at 45 degrees (perpendicular to each other) and attaching in place. Don’t forget your glue. I used 1/4″ plywood because I don’t have access to upholstery supplies, but if you can, jute webbing or no sag springs will add comfort to your chair. If you go the 1/4″ plywood route, glue and use 2″ screws to attach the plywood to the top. In this step, also notice how the base fits under the top. Drill holes through the 2x3s to accommodated attaching the base to the chair top. I covered my entire base frame with burlap, stapled to the underside. Then over the burlap, is spray glued the foam pieces to the seat, and then wrapped the foam over the back. Notice how the sides of the back do not have foam. Trim the foam for a nice clean chair to sew your slipcover off of. Cut out all your pieces as shown above. If your fabric has a direction, take note of this and carefully cut out each piece so the direction of the fabric matches the chair.
This pattern is for 1/4″ seams. Fold both pieces A and B in half the long way and press a seam down the centers. Pin A to B, right sides together, making note of the direction of the fabric, with the pressed lines matching up. Mark the front apron as shown above 1/4″ from the ends on the pinned edge. When you sew, start at the pressed line in the center, sew outward to the mark, 1/4″ from the end. When you get the the mark, leave your needle in the fabric, but lift the foot. Turn piece A (the smaller front apron) 90 degrees so it matches the edge of the seat piece B. Stitch. If the ends do not meet up exactly, do not worry. All edges on the bottom can be easily hemmed. Go back to the center seam and stitch the other side in the same manner. See how pretty the corners are in this method? Make sure the seat fits on the chair. This is your chance to let out or tighten any seams. Pin pieces C to piece D as shown above. Remember take not of the direction of your fabric.
Stitch along pinned edges. The top will go on just like the front apron. You will need to turn corners. Begin by pinning the top to the Back (piece D) centered with the back. Stitch the back to the top, stopping 1/4″ front the ends (on the side seam). Rotate fabric so that the top can be stitched to the sides. Place the slipcover on the back and test fitting. Then pin the seat back (Piece F) to the sides and top. Start at the top and stitch downward, matching the center of the backrest with the center of the top. Turn corners to stitch sides to backrest. Fit again, letting out or taking in seams so back fits snug but not tight. Take note of the seam you need to make in the next step – the seat to the back. Stitch Back to Seat Pin the seat back part to the seat base part. Stitch along base seam, but not sides. Fit on seat top. Note that the seam to the sides is open. Step 16: Staple Slipcover to Base Fit slipcover on, noting that the seams to the sides are open.