Ships from and sold by Mybecca. New (1) from $34.02 Get unlimited access to over 1,000 award-winning classes, with new classes added weekly. Mybecca Upholstery Foam Standard Cushion (Seat Replacement, Sheet, Foam Padding), 3"H X 24"W X 72"L, Medium Density 3M General Purpose 45 Spray Adhesive, 10-1/4-Ounce FREE Shipping on orders over . TIRED OF YOUR SAD-LOOKING COUCH? GIVE IT A TOUCH UP! With these high quality, premium upholstery foam cushions, you can easily replace your old foam while retaining your much-loved couch! Made of polyurethane foam and available in 3 different densities, you get a foam with the perfect amount of cushioning and stiffness. Each foam cushion would hold its firmness for 3-7 years, depending on the density and the usage. DENSITIES AVAILABLE: (1) REGULAR DENSITY - has a compression rate of 33LBS and is suitable for light use and decorative applications. (2) MEDIUM DENSITY - has a compression rate of 36LBS and it features the perfect amount of cushioning and stiffness, it’s soft but still holds its firmness.
(3) HIGH DENSITY - has a compression rate of 44 LBS, has a 100% recovery rate and is designed for heavy traffic and high use applications, can last from 5-7yrs. USES : Ideal for oval and round poker tables, furniture cushions, boat cushions, car cushions, foam mattresses, bedding support, and all other come and commercial upholstery applications. FOAM PACKAGES NEED TO BE OPENED IMMEDIATELY ONCE YOU RECEIVE THE PACKAGE. DO NOT LET THE FOAM SIT UNOPENED FOR MORE THAN 1 WEEK! DO NOT OPEN WITH A BOX CUTTER! USE A BALL POINT PEN OR A PENCIL. START BY MAKING A LITTLE INCISION AND BREAK IT FROM THERE. MYBECCA ALSO DO CUSTOM CUT FOAMS for additional fee! BEFORE YOU ORDER, PLEASE SEND US A MESSAGE WITH YOUR DESIRED MEASUREMENTS SO WE CAN GIVE YOU THE CORRECT QUOTATION AND LINK FOR THE CUSTOM FOAM TIER YOU SHOULD ORDER. DURABILITY: Will Last 3 to 7 Years Care Instructions : When unpacking, allow at least 2 days for the foam to breathe in order to recover its original size and form. 72 x 24 x 3 inches
3.1 pounds (View shipping rates and policies) Amazon only ships this item within the contiguous 48 United States. Other Sellers on Amazon may ship this item to Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories. This item is not eligible for international shipping. 4.6 out of 5 stars #145,020 in Home and Kitchen (See Top 100 in Home and Kitchen) #32 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing > Sewing > Sewing Notions & Supplies > Pillow Forms & Foam > Cushion & Upholstery Foam If you are a seller for this product, would you like to suggest updates through seller support? Would you like to tell us about a lower price? 5 star81%4 star13%3 star2%2 star2%1 star2%See all verified purchase reviewsTop Customer ReviewsGreat Product2"x 24 x72 upholstery foam cusionlength came up shortVery firmmatches descriptionGood product, poor packagingThe foam is great! I used it to cover benches that I ... Great and a great price See and discover other items: dining room chair cushions, polyurethane foam, upholstery bed
For a price estimate on your foam seats and / or cushions, enter the outer dimensions in the fields below, then click the "calculate the price" button for your estimate. (Scroll down for descriptions on the foam types)Welcome back to Upholstery Basics, where we’ll be rolling up our sleeves and completing our first project together: a wrap-around seat. Of all seating, dining room chairs get the brunt of the abuse — a little vino here, red sauce there. If you’ve been glaring at those chairs and wondering how to give them that much-needed facelift, read on, and you’ll be transforming those eyesores into jaw-droppers in no time. Read the full post on reupholstering dining chairs after the jump! Don’t forget to check out Upholstery Basics: Tool Time to learn more about the tools we’re using today. 1. Remove the seat from your chair frame by unscrewing the screws on the underside. If your seat drops into the frame, like mine, you may be able to pop it out without unscrewing it.
Make sure to mark the orientation of the seat before removing. It may seem obvious, but it is imperative that we know which side is the front when we attach the fabric later. 2. Strip all of the old fabric, padding, staples and tacks off of the seat using your pliers and staple remover. Once you’re finished, you should be left with a wooden board. This is a good point to mark any screw holes, so you can avoid them as you attach new padding and fabric. 3. Flip the board upside down on top of the foam and trace the outside edge with a permanent marker. 4. Use the carving knife to cut out the shape. Don’t worry if the edges get a little ragged looking. Just do your best to keep the blade straight up and down and not angled to one side or the other. 5. To create a slight domed shape to the seat, place a layer of cotton batting about an inch inside the edges of the board. Add extra layers if you’d like the crown of the seat to be more exaggerated. Just remember to make each additional layer of cotton slightly smaller than the one that precedes it.
6. Attach the foam to the board by stapling through the side of the foam and down into the wood. It’s best to work in opposites as you staple, so start with the back side and then move to the front. Then staple from the right to left side. Be careful not to push the foam back as you staple. We want the hard wooden edge to be padded, so it won’t show through the fabric. 7. Dacron will smooth out all of the imperfections and be the final layer of padding before the fabric. Once the foam is secured all the way around, tightly wrap Dacron around the edge and staple to the bottom of the board. 8. Trim off the excess Dacron gathered at the corners and around the bottom. 9. Now it’s time for the fabric! If you’re working with a pattern, decide where you’d like it placed on the seat. The rule of thumb is to place the top of the pattern at the back of the seat and the bottom of the pattern at the front of the seat. 10. To get started, staple the fabric at the back of the seat, but only put the staples in halfway by lifting one side of the staple gun up at an angle.
These are called sub-staples and will allow you to pull them out very easily should you need to make adjustments. Once you’ve stapled the back, move on to the front. Then sub-staple the right and left sides. 11. Make a pleat in every corner by pulling the fabric from the sides around to the front and back. Fold under enough of the excess fabric to make the edges of the folds flush with the corners. Feel free to cut out bulky excess if you’re having trouble getting it all folded under the pleats, and use your regulator to get the fabric neatly tucked in. 12. Once you’re happy with where your fabric is placed, take out your sub-staples a few inches at a time and replace them with permanent staples that go in all the way. These will need to be closer together to make sure all the fabric is held down tightly. Keep a close eye on the edge as you go. The more consistent you are with the tightness of your pull, the smoother the fabric will look. Another tip: Pull with your palm instead of your fingertips to avoid puckers and dimples.