Vitamin C derivatives: skin benefits of ascorbic acid without the downside Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is one of the relatively few topical agents whose effectiveness against wrinkles and fine lines is backed by a fair amount of reliable scientific evidence. (See our article on vitamin C.) Unfortunately, the practical use of vitamin C in skin care presents some difficulties due to its lack of stability. When exposed to air, vitamin C solution undergoes oxidation and becomes not only ineffective but also potentially harmful (oxidized vitamin C may increase the formation of free radicals). Some skin care companies offer stabilized vitamin C products, which oxidize less rapidly. However, these products are usually very expensive (especially the ones concentrated enough to be effective) and may still be excessively oxidized by the time you use them. Is it possible to get the skin benefits of vitamin C at lower cost and without the risk of using a degraded product? Yes -- and in more ways than one.
For instance, you can relatively easily prepare a high potency vitamin C serum on your own. If you make fresh batches often and store them properly, you can ensure a reliable supply of effective topical vitamin C. (For more information on making your own skincare preparations, including vitamin C serum, see our article Do-It-Yourself Anti-Aging Skin Care.) If you do not wish to go the DIY route, or high potency vitamin C irritates your skin, you can use vitamin C derivatives. To improve the practicability of vitamin C in skin care, scientists have been looking for its relatives with comparable or superior skin benefits. An ideal vitamin C derivative should be able to easily penetrate into skin cells and release L-ascorbic acid in amounts sufficient to boost collagen synthesis. Also, it should be more stable and less irritating than vitamin C. So far, two compounds have found their way into the broad skin care market: ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. A few other highly promising derivatives are on the horizon.
Ascorbyl palmitate is the most widely used fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C in skin care. It is nonirritating and more stable than vitamin C. Furthermore, ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble antioxidant and is at least as effective as vitamin E in protecting the skin from lipid peroxidation (a key type of free radical damage in the skin). Unfortunately, it appears that the concentrations of ascorbyl palmitate achievable in skin care formulas do not boost collagen synthesis as much as vitamin C. Numerous skin care products containing ascorbyl palmitate are commercially available. When buying products with ascorbyl palmitate (or other vitamin C-derived skin care for that matter), it is best to choose colorless or white formulation. That way you can spot the advanced stages of oxidation of the active ingredient by the emergence of a yellowish tint. Unfortunately, the lack of tint does not guarantee complete lack of oxidation because the early oxidation products are colorless.
Magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C rapidly gaining popularity in skin care. Most importantly, magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate appears to have the same potential as vitamin C to boost skin collagen synthesis but is effective in significantly lower concentrations. Overall, magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate appears to be a better choice than vitamin C for people with sensitive skin and those wishing to avoid any concomitant exfoliating effects. (Most vitamin C formulas are highly acidic and therefore produce exfoliation.) Skin care products with magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate are available and their number is growing. Many products contain less than effective concentration and fail to boost collagen synthesis. Also, even though magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate is several times more stable than vitamin C, it still gradually degrades when exposed to light and air. Hence freshness and proper storage are important. Next generation of vitamin C derivatives
Most vitamin C derivatives on the market, including ascorbyl palmitate and magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate, consist of the ascorbic acid fragment (ascorbyl) and a fragment of another acid (e.g. palmitate or phosphate). Recent research indicates that new vitamin C derivatives consisting of multiple chemical fragments bound to a single ascorbic acid fragment may work even better. These new derivatives are more stable compared to both vitamin C and older derivatives. Furthermore, some of these newcomers (particularly the so-called tetrasubstituted lipophilic ascorbates) also appear to be more powerful boosters of collagen synthesis. Even though relatively few skin care products currently on the market contain these new compounds, they may become widely used as more evidence of their benefits accumulates. While unmodified vitamin C remains an important skin care ingredient, its derivatives may do a better job in some situations. They tend to be more stable, more affordable and less irritating.
Furthermore, some of the derivatives may even be as effective in boosting skin collagen synthesis. On the other hand, unmodified vitamin C may be a better choice if you want to stimulate collagen synthesis and exfoliate at the same time. (High potency vitamin C products are highly acidic and therefore have exfoliating effect.) To learn about the practical use of vitamin C derivatives, including the promising new compounds, see Skin Rejuvenation Infopack. It covers optimal concentrations, proper application, storage and other issues that impact the effectiveness of these agents. Back to Topical ActivesBack to Anti-Aging Skin TreatmentsWe’ve all felt it: that uncomfortable feeling you get when you walk into a room and you know that everyone is looking at the wrinkles on your forehead. It can be very unnerving and it can easily throw you off your game or make you second-guess yourself. You could try covering your forehead with bangs or a hat, but sometimes those options just aren’t appropriate.
Your best bet it is to treat those wrinkles and be done with the problem all together. Thankfully, there are a number of ways to get rid of forehead lines quickly and without great expense or pain. This article will show you 6 ways to get smooth, radiant skin once again. One of the main factors in the development of forehead lines is a loss of skin firmness and elasticity. This decrease in elasticity is due, in large part, to the breakdown of collagen in the middle layers of the skin. One of the more effective ways to replace the collagen in the skin, and get rid of forehead lines in the process, is to add a collagen supplement to your diet. Collagen supplements can be taken as a powder or as a pill, depending on your preference. Pills are pretty straightforward—take one a day with a glass of water (directions may vary so be sure to read the label). Collagen powder, though, can be taken in a variety of ways. You could add the prescribed amount to your morning smoothie.
You could mix it into a glass of water. You could even sprinkle it in your favorite salad dressing. Exfoliating your skin is an important part of getting rid of forehead wrinkles. Exfoliating removes dead skin cells that can negatively affect the health of your skin. Additionally, exfoliating helps reveal the newer, younger skin underneath for a better overall appearance. To get rid of forehead lines at home, try mixing up an exfoliant that not only removes those pesky dead skin cells, but moisturizes and hydrates as well. Here’s what you’ll need: The aloe vera works to hydrate dry skin while the almond, coconut, or olive oil sets up a barrier that keeps all the moisture where it should be—in your skin. The sugar works as an abrasive to gently remove those dead skin cells mentioned earlier. To make this wrinkle-smoothing exfoliant and get rid of stubborn forehead lines, mix 1 teaspoon aloe vera with 2 teaspoons oil and 3 teaspoons sugar. When the ingredients are fully blended together, dip your fingers in the mixture and then rub them vigorously across your forehead like you were washing your face.
Circular motions work best but you can also go side to side and up and down. After 30 seconds to a minute of scrubbing, wash your face with lukewarm water and pat dry with a soft towel. Use this exfoliant once a week to restore a radiant glow to your forehead. Vitamin C is an important component in your strategy for getting rid of forehead lines. Vitamin C acts as a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals in the skin. These free radicals are one of the main causes of the breakdown of collagen and elastin that keep your skin looking young. Vitamin C is best obtained by eating fresh fruits and vegetables. We’re all aware of the vitamin C in fruits like oranges, grapefruits, lemons, and limes. But there are other sources that, gram for gram, are actually higher in than citrus fruits. Foods like red and green peppers, kale, brussels sprouts, broccoli, tomatoes, and peas are excellent sources of vitamin C. Try adding an orange to your breakfast, some kale to your mid-day salad, and some steamed broccoli as a side at dinner to get plenty of daily vitamin C.
If those foods don’t tickle your fancy, vitamin C can also be consumed through supplements. Add a bit of vitamin C powder to a smoothie or a glass of cold water. If pills are more to your liking, pop a vitamin C capsule at breakfast for a forehead wrinkle-fighting boost. is a natural source of retinol, a powerful form of vitamin A. Retinol is well-known for its ability to repair damaged tissue and reduce wrinkles. Retinol does this by encouraging the turnover and quick death of surface skin cells. This turnover reveals the healthy skin underneath and promotes new cell growth in the top layers of skin. For a supercharged way to get rid of forehead lines, massage a bit of rosehip oil into your skin before bed each night. Then, instead of washing it off, leave it on while you sleep for 6-8 hours of rejuvenation. You can also mix rosehip oil with coconut oil to receive even more healing while you sleep. Keep in mind that rosehip oil is naturally yellow. Because of its yellow tint, it may discolor your pillowcase and any other fabrics that come in contact with your skin.
Applying a forehead mask once or twice a week can be a great way to get rid of forehead lines. But not just any mask will do. The best masks have just the right ingredients to smooth out stubborn lines and give your skin the glow you’ve been searching for. Try this recipe for accelerated results. In a bowl, mix: Let the mixture sit for a few minutes to make sure the brown sugar is completely dissolved, and then spread a thick layer on your forehead. Let the mask sit for 20 minutes. Rinse off the mask with lukewarm water and pat dry with a soft towel. As mentioned, use this mask only once or twice a week for best results. Serums are the best choice when it comes to getting rid of forehead lines—they’re effective, fast-acting, and cost a fraction of more invasive options like fillers and dermabrasion. Our favorite is SiO Beauty’s Décolleté Serum because it contains the highest concentration of active ingredients possible. With SiO Beauty, you get wrinkle relaxers like stevioside, brighteners like vitamin C, hydrators, anti-inflammatories like shea butter, licorice root, and aloe, as well as other anti-aging goodies like black, white, and green tea, sunflower oil, coconut oil, and vitamin E. Working together, those ingredients provide deep skin-plumping hydration, brighten skin tone, and protect against new environmental damage.