Floors for Less is now GoHardwood!Same company, same great prices just a different name!!!GoHardwood, is a premier flooring company that sells first-rate, quality products well below retail pricing. We specialize in closeout, liquidation and large volume purchases from flooring mills to obtain the best possible pricing. We deal directly with the mill (no middle man) in order to get the best possible price on hardwood flooring. We offer the best pricing on all of our discounted solid, engineered, vinyl and bamboo flooring, even carpet tile. GoHardwood is headquartered in East Rutherford, NJ however we cater to the entire United States. We utilize shipping terminals located across the USA and Canada as a pick up location for your flooring material (we even ship to Hawaii and Alaska). Our family run business was established over 25 years ago and has been in the same East Rutherford, NJ location for over 15 years. When looking for excellent customer service and the best deal on hardwood flooring, look no further than GoHardwood.
Solid Engineered Carpet Tile LVTGet In touchFeel free to place an online order 24/7 or call one of our knowledgeable representatives at201.933.WOODEngineered flooring might sound like something that’s made in a lab from plastics and other chemicals but, in fact, it consists of real wood. What sets engineered flooring apart from other types of hardwood flooring is that the boards are composed of a multi-layer “core” substrate with a wood veneer top rather than a solid piece of wood. The core contains anywhere from three to seven layers of plywood or medium density fiberboard (MDF) which are put together in a cross-grain pattern using heat and high pressure. The top layer is a veneer of real hardwood and therefore can achieve the look of virtually any type of solid flooring available. The “sandwich-like” construction of engineered flooring is what gives it a distinct advantage over hardwood floors. Because each layer can shrink and swell on its own, engineered flooring is much less likely to buckle or warp under moist or extreme temperature conditions.
The end result is a wood flooring product that mimics the beauty and appeal of solid hardwood, but costs less, installs easier and offers the benefits of moisture resistance. “Engineered flooring is a popular choice for today’s homeowner for many reasons,” says Chelsea Fossum from Lumber Liquidators, a national flooring retailer that sells nearly 80 different styles of engineered hardwood products. ”Since it is less susceptible to moisture issues, it can be installed below grade—including basements, and areas in the house subject to variations in humidity, like the bath. It can also be installed on top of a wood subfloor or concrete slab making it an easy install for the do-it-yourselfer,” she adds. Installing engineered flooring is similar to other wood floor installations. The product can be nailed, stapled or glued down. “Easy Click” products are also available, allowing floorboards to be snapped together and “floated” above the base floor. Engineered wood is an extremely stable install because there’s very minimal potential for gapping and cupping, which is where the wood actually buckles on the edges.
The flexible construction also makes it ideal for installing on top of radiant heat systems as it’s not subject to the shrinkage that pure hardwood can undergo from being dried out by this type of heat. DOWNLOAD BOB VILA’S FLOORING GUIDE HERE Engineered flooring comes in a wide range of wood species, from domestic maple and hickory to exotic Brazilian cherry and bamboo. Regardless of whether you live in a country cottage, suburban ranch, or contemporary condo, there is an engineered floor to suit your decorating style. In addition to the variety of woods, you can also choose engineered flooring planks in a variety of widths, ranging from 2 ¼” to 7″, as well as a variety of lengths from 12″ to 60″. Many boxes have planks of differing sizes to keep the installation visually interesting. One of the more popular engineered wood floor finishes today is handscraped, which gives the product a worn, distressed feel reminiscent of authentic hand-planed wood floors.
Maintaining engineered floors is pretty much the same as maintaining hardwood floors. You’ll want to be sure that the surfaces remain free from dirt, grit and any other grime that might scratch. Do this simply by sweeping with a soft-bristled brush or vacuuming on a regular basis. When the floors start to get a build up of dirt, clean them with a damp mop and a mild solution of vinegar and water. Never use a soaking-wet mop because even though engineered floors are moisture resistant, it’s never a good idea to drench them completely. Since floorboards are generally pre-finished, waxes or harsh chemical cleaners are generally not recommended. Just like hardwood floors, if someday your engineered floors lose their luster, you can sand them down and refinish them. This is especially true of engineered flooring boards that are 3/4″ thick as opposed to the thinner 3/8″ variety. In the thicker boards, the veneer is also beefier, so you should be able to refinish them two-to-three times over their lifespan, which is generally considered to be 40 – 80 years—a long life indeed for a product that can be had for as little as $1.69 per square foot.
This post has been brought to you by Lumber Liquidators. Patina Old World Flooring is a manufacturer of reproduction French Parquet and rustic and select wide plank wood flooring. All flooring is both hand scraped and finished as well as custom fabricated. Thus each board is an individual. It is unique and different from its neighbor. Offered in a variety of wood species ranging from Hickory to Oak, Cherry to Jatoba and many more. There are many standard stains as well as colors customized for your palate. Colors and finishes are available to complement any of today’s interiors from antique to ultra-modern. Call us at 1.805-648-7521 or email us and let’s discuss your needs. See this video much larger and read about our new wood flooring for kitchens and bathrooms! Or any place where moisture and humitidy is an issue.DK - Do It Yourself Home Improvement, 2009 Dorling Kindersley Limited DK - Do It Yourself Home Improvement, 2009 Dorling Kindersley Limited Stain and wood preserver are applied in the same order as you would paint.
You can apply coats to roughly finished wood quickly, but to get an even coat on smooth wood requires accuracy. Cover each surface without a break—if the stain or preserver dries midway, you will be left with a line. Apply stain with the grain of the wood (image 1). Take care not to overload the brush and to brush out any drips before the stain dries. Complete one section of wood before beginning the next. Where two sections join, ensure that strokes do not overlap each other (image 2). Wax is normally applied with a cloth, although some types are designed to be brushed on. Repeated application and buffing builds up depth of color and sheen. It is not necessary to follow the grain of the wood, although this is considered to be the best way to efficiently cover the wood surface. Scoop some wax out of its container with a soft cloth and rub it evenly into the wood until there are no globules of wax left (image 1). Leave the wax to dry, but not to harden for a few minutes.
Buff the surface with a clean cloth to provide a smooth finish (image 2). All oils are applied using a similar technique. Pure tung oil is good for countertops and food preparation areas as it is non-toxic. Danish oil and teak oil are good for hardwoods, especially outdoor furniture; teak oil provides a glossier finish. If you choose traditional linseed oil, use boiled or double-boiled types because they are quicker to dry and not as sticky as the raw oil. Apply liberally, using strokes of a soft brush in line with the wood grain to help ensure full coverage and aid penetration (image 1). Allow the oil to soak in before removing excess with a cloth. Leave for half an hour, or as directed, then buff the surface with a dry cloth (image 2). Like stain, varnish must be applied in the direction of the grain, although you don't have to worry so much about accuracy. Because many varnishes are completely transparent, it is easy to miss areas during application. Good lighting and regular inspection of the surface are necessary to ensure good coverage.
Follow the grain of the wood. Finish one section before beginning the next (image 1). Brush out the varnish to give an even coat (image 2) Sand down the surface of the first coat because varnish, especially water-based varieties, tends to lift the grain of the wood ((image 3). Wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove dust, and let it dry before applying the next coat (image 4). Apply further coats as required. If you want to mix dyes to a specific shade, make sure they both have the same base—oil or water. Dyed wood needs a protective finish such as wax or varnish over the top. Apply dye with the grain. Keep a wet edge where you work and take care not to overlap onto areas that have dried. Seal the dye with a protective finish. Check the manufacturer's specifications for compatible finishes. Stained exterior woodwork needs only occasional maintenance. A single coat, applied every year or two, will keep wood protected and looking good. Once a year, lightly sand and wipe exterior varnish before applying a maintenance coat.