Milan Bedroom FurnitureFitted Bedroom FurnitureFurniture WardrobesFitted BedroomsBedroom InteriorAwkward BedroomsAwkward RoomAwkward SpacesWardrobes HelpForwardMilan is perfect for awkward bedrooms with sloping ceilings, nooks and crannies and other quirks. Built in wardrobes help maximise your space and create a wonderful design.Wardrobe Doors Direct | Made-to-Measure Sliding Wardrobe DoorsJust had another nice review from one our satisfied customers. Furniture Shop in Bingley (UK) - Wardrobe Doors DirectWardrobes 22Wardrobes InteriorBuilt In WardrobesWardrobes StorageWardrobes BedroomFitted WardrobesBedroom ClosetMaster ClosetMaster BedroomForwardBuilt in wardrobe closet with sloped ceiling my ceiling slopes all the way to floor, I am going to do the shelves on the side of mine.Sliding doors are often installed where space limits a swinging door. Sliding glass doors and closet doors operate with rollers, guides and tracks. Typically, heavier glass and mirrored doors have rollers at the underside that travel in a bottom track and a channel at the upper track that acts as a guide.
Many sliding closet doors have rollers at the top that travel in an upper track and a single guide at the bottom. Regardless of the style or type, uneven floors can affect proper operation of sliding doors. Installing sliding doors on an uneven floor requires additional considerations to ensure the doors work properly. Measure the width across the top of the jamb from end to end. Measure and mark the top track to length, using a felt-tip marker. Cut the track at the mark with a hacksaw. Set up a power or cordless drill with a screw-tip attachment. Depending on the manufacturer, the track installs with one edge even with the outer edge of the jamb or inset 1 inch. Attach the top track at the underside of the upper jamb by driving one of the provided screws into each of the manufacturer's holes in the track. Attach the rollers at the upper-inside corners of each door, using the provided screws. Typically, the rollers attach 2 inches from each edge of a door. If a template is provided, mark the locations and attach the rollers.
Tilt one door inward at the top and fit the rollers into the track. Repeat this and fit the rollers on the remaining door into the track. Position the floor guide on the floor at the point where the doors intersect at the middle of the opening. Mark the outline of the guide on the carpet or flooring. Cut the carpet at the outline of the guide, using a utility knife. Remove the small section of carpet. It's not necessary to remove a section of floor tile or hardwood flooring. For a concrete slab, mark the locations of the screw holes in the guide and drill holes in the concrete with a carbide or masonry drill bit. Insert a provided anchor into each hole. Position the guide on the floor at the marked location and close the doors. If the bottoms of the doors are above the guides, cut small wooden shims, using a utility knife. Install the shims under the guide, as necessary. Continue to install the shims until the doors travel between the guides. Secure the guide to the floor with the provided screws.
Measure the width of the opening between the door jambs and deduct 1 inch. Select a piece of 1-inch by 4-inch pine or fir board that has straight edges. Cut the piece to length, using a circular saw or handsaw. Position the 1-by-4 board on edge on the floor across the opening. Mark the locations of any gaps between the lower edge of the piece and the floor, using a felt-tip marker. Measure the width of the bottom track and cut wooden shims to this length. Refer to the overall measurement between the jambs and cut the bottom track to length, using the hacksaw. Place the bottom track in the opening and align the outer edge with the outer edges of the jambs at each side. Refer to your marks on the floor and insert the wooden shims between the underside of the track and the floor. Install the bottom track by driving one of the provided screws at each of the manufacturer's holes in the track. For a concrete slab, drill holes for anchors at each hole in the track and install the provided anchors in the concrete.
Attach the bottom track to the floor or slab using one of the provided screws at each of the manufacturer's holes. Measure the top of the door jamb from end to end. Mark the upper track to length and cut the track with the hacksaw. Refer to the instructions regarding the position of the upper track, such as even with one edge of the jamb or inset. Attach the upper track using the provided screws at each of the manufacturer's holes. Tilt one of the sliding glass or mirrored doors outward at the bottom and fit the top of the door into the outermost channel at the top track. Tilt the bottom of the door inward and align it with the outermost groove in the bottom track. Allow the rollers at the underside of the door to settle onto the groove. Repeat this step and install the remaining door in the innermost channel at the upper track and groove at the bottom track. : /Getty Images Suggest a Correction Published on June 18th, 2015 | My parents were redoing the master bedroom in their house and wanted a new wardrobe.
They have a lot of space lost in the room under the eaves so I came up with a design for a highly modified Pax to fit under the eaves on a 3m long wall. This is the gap to fill: 4x 750mm x 580mm x 2.01m Pax frames 2x 2.36m x 1.5m Pax sliding door frames 3x Auli mirror 4 packs 750mm x 4 = 3m so 4 Pax cabinets would fit, having to be cut down to fit the sloped roof with the height at the front being around 1.8m. Cutting down the material for the frames was mostly done with a circular saw over 2 days as each panel was different. A lot of design had to be done so that the strength was kept at the top of the wardrobe. The top panel was kept into three, a top section that the doors would run on, a diagonal section that would be on the 45 degree slope and a vertical piece on the back. There was also a lot of trouble aligning everything as the floor, walls and sloping roof are not entirely planar, therefore each piece had to be modified a bit to suit so that the doors would correctly align.
Here are 4 frames assembled for a test fitting: Yes, there are a few panel gaps in the picture but these were resolved with a bit of adjustment and caulk after the positioning was fixed. The doors were a major undertaking. We used 2 pairs of Pax sliding door frames but rather than use the 2.01m version, we used the 2.36m version. The reason: 3 quarters of 2.36m is 1.77m which is the height required. These Pax sliding doors now have 3 panels per door, not four! To do this the aluminium extrusions of the verticals had to be cut down by 581mm. I used a jigsaw to do this but a mitre saw would be more suitable if I had access to one. Slots and holes had to be precisely cut into the vertical sections to enable the doors to be assembled in their new form. The effect is surprisingly effective as the aluminium is quite easy to work with. The edging strips used for the ends of the wardobes had to be cut down also to the correct length. Here is the (almost) finished wardrobe with Auli mirrors: