REPLACEMENT PARTS FOR YOUR LARSON STORM DOOR We are committed to helping you find parts quickly and easily for your LARSON storm door. Locate your registration number on the hinge rail and enter below. SEARCH Parts by Image Repair/Replacement Parts- Exterior Door Hardware- Interior Door Hardware- Tub & Shower Door Hardware- Window Hardware- Drawer And Cabinet Hardware- RV And Mobile Home Hardware- Builders Hardware- Window And Screen Repair- Commercial Restroom Hardware- Repair Springs Safety and Security Products- Child Safety Products- Door Security- Sliding Patio Door Security- Window Security- Cabinet Security- Miscellaneous Security- Gib CloserLockwood 8653 Sliding Door Lock Lockwood 8653 Sliding Door Lock The Lockwood 8653 Sliding Door Lock has been designed in Australia and manufactured to stringent quality specifications. The range has been tested in accordance with AS4145.2-2008, offering exceptional performance and reliability. Incorporating Lockwood’s advanced safety and security features, DualSelect® and LockAlert® the 8653 Sliding Security Door Lock is ideal for use in residential applications.
Features of the 8653 Sliding Security Screen Door Lock 2 stage key locking, offers safety and security for all occupants by giving a choice of selecting privacy lock or deadlock when exiting the home Turning the key to the first selection engages the privacy lock, this offers security from the outside whilst allowing occupants inside to safely exit using the internal lever Turning the key to the second selection engages the deadlock, this provides internal and external security, and requires the key to unlock the door from inside and outside Suits left or right hand closing doors Key locking from both sides Inside snib locking (with key override) Snib only version also available Stainless steel front end plates Self latching with stainless steel parrot beak deadlatch Can only be locked when fully engaged with strike Stainless steel strike available for single point locks Optional 3 point kit available for premium security
When 3 point kit is fitted, snib activates/ operates all 3 locking points Available in a range of polyester powdercoat and plated finishes Fits industry standard cut outs/door preparation Retrofits previous Whitco Leichhardt Lock Zinc diecast lock mechanism and furniture Easy installation for both new and retrofit applications Accepts Lockwood Euro profile lazy cam cylinder Suit standard 20mm door thickness Available in display and trade packs DualSelectTurn the key for safety mode. Turn the key further to select secure mode. LockAlertIndicator shows lock status at a glance. This high performance lock meets or exceeds the requirements of Australian Standard AS 4145.2 – 2008: Locksets and Hardware for Doors and Windows Part 2: Mechanical Locksets for Doors and Windows in Buildings. To Level S7 and D8. Successfully tested on security screen doors in accordance with Australian Standard AS 5039-2008: Security Screen Doors and Security Window Grilles and AS 5041-2003: Methods of Test.
ApplicationSingle or multi point mortice sliding security door lock available in High Strength (3 point) and Standard versions. A snib only mortice lockset is also available. Use with Lockwood Euro profile lazy cam cylinder 2 x 5 pin cylinder Can be keyed alike to other Lockwood door and window products Standard Multi Point kit High strength strike kit Dual Select, Lockbody With Stainless Steel Latch Bolt, Furniture, Standard Strike, Screws, No Cylinder Lockbody With Stainless Steel Latch Bolt, Snib Only Mechanism, Furniture, Standard Strike, Screws, No Cylinder 3 Point Kit Including Rods, Stainless Steel High Strength Strike Auxiliary Locks, Strikes and Screws Standard 3 Point Kit Stainless Steel High Strength Strike Leichhardt Retrofit Connecting Rod Set Retrofit Connecting Rod Set Anti Drill 5 Pin Lazy Cam Cylinder, Chrome Plate Dual Select, Lockbody With Stainless Steel Latch Bolt, Furniture, Standard Strike, Screws, Cylinder
Find your local Lockwood stockist. Lockwood 8654 Hinged Security Door LockFeaturing DualSelect® 2 stage key locking. Lockwood 403 Screen Door CloserSuitable for door weights up to 21kg. Lockwood 300-4 Screen Door LatchOpened from outside by knob and from inside by lever.Please Select Username to appear on public areas of the site like community and recipe comments.Field/Installer Videos (Sliding Doors) Sliding Door Strike Relocation Changing Acuator Tab on Narrow Flush Hardware How To Square Up A Sliding Door Panel 3070 Series Roller Replacement 3070 - Deglaze Door Panel w/TDL 3070 - Glaze Door Panel w/TDL Removing Interlock Spacers Installing An Edge Pull Remove/Reinstall Post Interlock Clip Replace Archetype Latch w/Keyed Cylinder
Adjustment of Archetype Strike Plate Sliding Door Lock Stile Replacement Sliding Door Interlock Replacement Replace Mo-hair On Sliding Glass Door Sliding Door Rail Seperation Repair 3070 Screen Assembly/Re-meshing Glazing a 3070-T Sliding Glass Door Air Barrier Installation Changing Out an Archetype Narrow Latch Actuator Replacement on Archetype Narrow Sliding Door Roller AdjustmentThis story provides solutions to the most common door problems. To get that satisfying "thunk" when a door closes -- rather than rattles, squeaks, or scrapes -- there must be an even gap between the door and the jamb all around; the hinges should be flush with the jamb and move freely; and the stop and the strike plate should be correctly aligned, so the door's latch easily clicks into the hole in the strike plate when the door closes.
The door itself may be solid-core, hollow-core, or made of panels. Hinges are attached to the jamb, which is attached to the house's framing on the sides and above. An interior door usually has two hinges and a heavier exterior door usually has three. Usually there is a gap between the jamb and the framing, which is filled with shims positioned near the nails. Stop molding is positioned so the door bumps against it when closed. If the stop is too tight, the door will be difficult to close; if it is too loose, the door will rattle. On the latch side of the jamb, a strike plate is positioned over a hole in the jamb; the door's latch bolt engages a hole in the strike plate to latch the door. On an exterior door there is often a dead-bolt lock as well. The holes and strike plate must be correctly positioned for the door to close properly. Hinges are attached to the other edge of the door with screws. They grab effectively only in solid wood (not particleboard). Long screws can be used if the door is solid wood, but shorter screws are used for a hollow-core door or a solid-core door with a particleboard core.
A squeaky hinge may only need a squirt of the right lubricant. If you see rust, first use penetrating lubricant to free rusted parts. Then apply powdered graphite or silicone lubricant for a longer-lasting solution. Also use lubricants to free a balky latch bolt. On the jamb leaf of a hinge, long screws are effective if they can reach house framing. Where the screws would go into drywall, shorter screws are just as good. If the stop is keeping the door from closing all the way or if it is too far away so that the door rattles, move the stop. First score the paint line where the stop meets the jamb. Then tap in two putty knives and begin prying. When the separation is large enough, insert a flat pry bar. Keep one putty knife in place to avoid damaging the jamb. Gently work your way down the stop until you can remove it completely. With the door closed reposition the stop, place a cardboard shim between the stop and the door, and drive new nails. Touch up the paint as necessary.
To remove a door, support it at the bottom on the latch side with shims. Tap the pin up with a hammer and screwdriver and pull it out. On some hinges you must tap a nail up through the bottom of the hinge first. With the pins removed you can simply pull the door out. Put the pins back into hinge leaves so you will not lose them. If a strike plate is recessed (as often happens when the doorway is painted several times), remove the screws, pull it out, and make cardboard shims to fit in the mortise. Use as many shims as needed to bring the strike flush with the jamb. If the latch bolt does not align with the hole in the strike, preventing it from latching, you may be able to solve the problem by filing the strike plate. If that does not solve the problem, move the strike plate. Use a knife and chisel to cut a mortise and enlarge the hole if needed. Drill pilot holes and reattach the strike plate. Fill the exposed mortise area with wood putty and sand smooth. If a door binds and a loose hinge is not the problem, close it until it just touches the jamb (don't force it closed) and use a pencil to scribe a line where the door needs to be trimmed.
The ideal is a 1/8-inch gap between the door and jamb at all points. Mark both sides of the door. Adjust a plane so the blade barely protrudes beyond the base. Test on a scrap piece of wood; the plane should easily produce very thin shavings. You can use a shaping tool, but the resulting edge will require sanding to make it smooth. Set the door on the floor so it is stable. Hold the plane flat on the door edge and press down as you push forward. Don't force the plane; Plane with the grain. If the plane chatters or gets stuck, plane in the opposite direction. Plane down to the scribe lines. Sand the edge smooth and slightly round the corners with a sanding block. Finish the edge to match the door. At the top or bottom of a panel where the horizontal rails and vertical stiles meet, plane across, rather than along, the grain of the stile. First use the plane or a sanding block to bevel the outside edge so it won't splinter. Plane the rail in both directions. The plane will chatter as it crosses the end grain, then begin shaving smoothly as it reaches the stile.
The result at the rail will be somewhat rough but sandable. Cut an interior door bottom 1/2 inch or so above the flooring or threshold. Mark the cutting line, then scribe about 1/16 inch above the cutline with a utility knife. This is especially important when cutting across the grain or cutting a plywood veneer. Start the cut with a square as a guide. Stop the saw after cutting 3 or 4 inches. Remove the square and push a straightedge against the base of the saw. Clamp the straightedge at one end. Measure to be sure the circular saw will cut along the cutting line -- 1/16 inch below the knife line. Set the circular saw's blade about 1/4 inch deeper than the thickness of the door. Make the cut, holding the saw's baseplate against the guide. Use a sanding block to smooth the cut edge and slightly round the corners. In an older home with an out-of-square door frame, the top of a door may be out of parallel with the top of the frame. Measure the distance between the top of the door and the frame;