ralph lauren uk outlet, cheap north face jacket, « Quickie Bathroom Updates Map Heart Art » Carpentry, DIY, House, tutorial I’ve been lusting over interior barn doors for ages. Ever since I saw their rustic beauty, I knew I had to have one. When we moved into our new home and started living in a master suite with no door to the bathroom, I knew this door would be the perfect solution. After doing a little preliminary research, ordering the hardware would cost us upwards of $100, and waiting on shipping. Well, I’m cheap and impatient, so we came up with another solution. Want to see how to build your own barn door completely from scratch, all for $140, including the hardware? • 7 – 1x6x8 foot boards (we chose paneling for a beadboard look, but you can always go more rustic) • 2 – 36 inch metal plates (in the decking section) • 3/4 inch screws (roughly 20 or so, or longer screws if your boards are thicker) • Trolley hanger with w/9 bolt (runs about $30)
• Trolley rail (runs about $25) • scrap 2×4 or 2×6 • L-frame anchor plate • stain or paint, sandpaper, wood glue, finishing supplies Step 1 – Design your door layout We chose beadboard paneling boards, which had tongue-and-groove edges. All we did here was run a bead of glue down each groove as we hammered them together. Step 2 – Stain/Paint your door We chose a bold blue stain so the door would really pop. I had to cut it with a little water in the end to get it to fit down into all those tiny grooves and apply with a paintbrush. This was easily the most time-consuming process of creating this door. Step 3 – Attach your door hardware I didn’t take a photo of this, but lay out your metal plate onto your door where you’d like it to sit. Attach at least two screws per board in the plate. The plate has a ton of holes, and it’s up to you whether you’d like to use them all or not. The plate also comes in shiny silver metal, so we sprayed ours with hammered bronze paint before attaching it.
Step 4 – Flip door over and finish the opposite side You get a little teaser here because I was bad with my in-process photo taking. We decided to stain the inside of the door a dark walnut color instead of the blue. We liked the surprise and contrast of having two different colored sides, as well as the balance of a wood-toned neutral in our bathroom. Step 4 – Prep your sliding hardware This sucker is a trolley rail that you can pick up at Lowes for $25. Home Depot doesn’t carry them, but you may find it at another hardware store. It’s another shiny silver finish, so we sprayed this with the rustic bronze as well. You’ll first have to figure out how long you want your rail. We needed about 5 feet of it, so my husband used our grinder with a cutting wheel and sliced off about a foot. Now, if your door is in the center of a wall, then you’re totally fine without this little L-bracket. But, if you’re like us and your door is sneaking around in the corner, you’ll have to attach it with some heavy screws.
The bright side is that they also serve as a stop before the door smacks into your other wall. You’ll attach one side to your rail, and once you get ready to mount you’ll attach the other to the perpendicular wall. Okay, here’s where things get all mathematical and tricky. You’ll need to find the studs on your wall, and measure from your end point on your rail to where your studs are and mark them. This is because you’re going to have to drill two holes into the rail. One little one for the screw to go through, and a larger one for your drill to fit through. This is so you can screw the rail into the studs without them blocking the trolley mechanism. Here’s a visual Step 5 – Attach trolley rail to the wall See how large the hole is on the rail? You can just spot it about halfway down from the Husbane’s hand to the end of it on the left. It’s large so you can fit a drill extension bit through it to drive a screw into the wall behind it. You’ll want to attach it into studs in at least two places, and on the end with the bracket.
We specifically did not cut down our 8 foot boards until the end here, because we knew we wanted the door to extend past the rail. Step 6 – Measure the new door height, cut excess and attach your 2×4 support Confused yet? Ok, so it’s getting a little tricky now. What we did was first measure exactly how tall we wanted our door to be. Once we had our measurement (which was 2 inches higher than the top of the rail) we cut all the boards at once with a jigsaw. We need to do a smidge more cutting because our floor is a little wonky and one side drags. Ok, so your door is properly cut and sized. Now, you prop it up against your rail, and stand inside your doorway. With the trolley wheels slid inside the rail (you can see the bolt popping down by the Husbane’s hand) hold up your 2×4 and mark where the top and bottom need to be. Attach the board to your door with screws, making sure they don’t pop through the front. Step 7 – Drill holes for the bolts The hole needs to be large enough for the bolt to slide through.
You can stick with the ones that come in the box with your trolley wheels, or get your own smaller ones (which is what we did). Step 8 – Attach your trolley wheels Slide your bolt through a washer and into the hole in your wheels, down through the board. We seemed to have picked bolts that were a little short, so we compensated by drilling a large “countersink” hole with a spade bit so we could get the nuts on. I’m going to pretend we did this on purpose to make the nuts more unobtrusive. You could do it this way too! Then you won’t have bolts popping through the backside of your door. Step 9 -Take gratuitous belly pictures of yourself in the mirror because you can’t believe how enormous you’ve become. My shirts won’t even stay down these days! That pesky baby bump just keeps on growing. Oh, and you can see the catastrophe that is my closet. Seems the last owners thought nails would be enough to hold up the closet brackets. The entire thing came crashing down Saturday afternoon.