Shabby Chic Furniture Old/Restored for sale added 4 new photos.This is my next project to convert this old brown table to the white farmhouse shabby chic table Look forward to it Forgot your username or email? For open-plan or loft living, shop our collection of industrial-chic furniture. Whether you're looking to redo a whole room or add hints of vintage charm, stay inspired with our affordable prices on dining tables, desks, shelving, lighting, and accents full of sleek industrial style.Inside a Charming Cape Cod Escape Distressed vintage finds, salvaged and whitewashed wood, pops of pastel, and time-worn hints of yesteryear are the hallmarks of shabby chic decorating. Bring the rustic-yet-feminine style into your cooking space with these decorating ideas. Plus, get more kitchen decorating ideas. Salvaged CabinetsSalvaged CabinetsYou'd never guess that most of this 1900 Texas cottage was a new build. To add this kitchen, the owners scoured the nearby countryside for materials others might overlook—from rusted pressed tin for the ceilings to salvaged windows, doors, and cabinets.
Rustic Kitchen IslandRustic Kitchen IslandVictorian chandeliers, vintage china, and farmhouse chairs are just some of the essential items in a shabby chic-style kitchen. 8 Awe-Inspiring Treehouse Designs 42 Great Ideas for Kitchen Islands Hate Stark, Modern Rooms? You're Going to Love This Unusual Decor Trend See What Mary Tyler Moore's TV Living Room Would Look Like Today You'll Either Love or Hate the Fact That This '70s Décor Trend Is Back 15 Decor Ideas from Grandma's House That Should Have Never Gone Out of Style 15 Rooms That Prove Black Shiplap Is the New White Shiplap 20 DIY Decorating Ideas for the Most Romantic Bedroom This Layering Trend Is Going to Take Over Living Rooms In 2017 8 Gorgeous Kitchen Trends That Are Going to Be Huge in 2017 This Gorgeous Farmhouse-Inspired Apartment is Hidden in New York CityI now own the kitchen hutch of my dreams. I’ve been wanting, , a hutch for years, and now I own it. I’m beyond pleased with how it turned out.
I bought this beauty at a garage sale last Saturday for $50. It’s just shy of five feet wide and almost seven feet tall. The whole thing is wood except for the back panel which is a laminate panel. I did some serious research in preparation to paint this hutch. The most useful site that I found was Centsational Girl. The woman is a genius, has painted tons of things, and is so clear in her instructions. I am so glad I found her site because it’s just plain great. One of the big reasons for the research was because I was not going to sand the entire thing down to the wood. I read lots and lots and went with a method that involved very little sanding. Painting furniture without sanding is the way to go! Most of the big-time furniture painters are very specific on brands and types of primer/paint conditioner/polyurethane that they use. Lots of the women paint and then sell furniture in shops, so they do it for a living. I went with what the experts said. Zinsser Cover Stain oil-based primer
good quality two-inch angled brush (mine is a Purdy brush) fine-grit sanding block, medium-grit sanding block, coarse-grit sanding block paint of your choice Minwax water-based Polycrylic (Varathane water-based polyurethane was also an acceptable choice) tack cloth or lint free rag for wiping and dusting Remove all of the doors and hardware using a screwdriver. I decided that I didn’t want the doors on top at all, so I removed them and then used a Sawzall to cut the two vertical boards that the doors were attached to. I pulled out the boards but was left with holes where the boards were and where the hinges were screwed in. I followed the directions on the Elmer’s wood-filler to patch the holes and then sanded them smooth. If you are planning on changing the hardware you may need to patch the old hardware holes too. The wood filler is also great to fix large scratches and dings. Use the medium-grit sanding block to rough up all surfaces you are going to paint.
I didn’t paint the inside of the cabinet bottoms; it’s a personal preference. You aren’t really sanding, you are just lightly scratching the surface to give the primer a better finish to adhere to. I just quickly went over the entire piece, which only took me 15 minutes. Remove all of the dust completely before moving on. Using Zinsser Cover Stain oil-based primer is the key here. It’s the only primer any of the big-timers use and I have to agree that it worked great. It’s the key for painting without sanding and for painting laminate furniture. At around $20 for the gallon, it’s well worth the time you save on sanding. It is oil-based, so you will need paint thinner or mineral spirits to clean your brush. And be warned – this stuff is not low-VOC. Holy stink; I had all of the windows and door open as well as a fan blowing air out the window. I opted for two coats of primer because two is better than one in this case. Even though the primer is oil-based, you can use whatever paint you want.
Most people suggested using an acrylic water-based paint. I had lots of white paint left over from painting the ceilings of our remodel, so I used that. The sheen of the paint doesn’t really matter because you are going to cover it anyhow. I added the Floetrol paint conditioner to the paint which is meant to help reduce brush marks. Just follow the instructions on the bottle. Again, I did two coats of paint. Allow the paint to dry for 24 hours before moving on to the polyurethane. If you are going for the shabby chic/vintage look then you can distress the paint. If you like it without, then skip this step. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to distress this piece or not. It was my first big painting project. I had my fair share of paint drips and brush strokes regardless of the care I took to prevent them, so I decided that distressing was a good option for me. It was painful at first to scratch up my freshly painted piece, but in the end I’m glad that I did it. I like the look, but it also will make using it easier.
I don’t want to worry about a little wear and tear from the babies. Now the first scratch will blend in. Use the coarse sandpaper block to go over the edges, and then follow up with the medium-grit sandpaper. The coarse cut through my 4 layers well and the medium fanned out the scratch lightly to make it look more real. This step was really fun once I made the plunge. This is the protective top-coat that you don’t want to skip. This will prevent more of your paint from scratching off and really makes the piece last. Minwax and Varathane were the two main brands big-timers use. There are a few types, including a wipe-on paste, that people like. Everyone seems to agree on one point though: do not use an oil based top-coat. The oil-based (and off-brands) will yellow, and on a light piece you definitely don’t want that. I did two coats of Minwax water-based Polycrylic that was semi-gloss. This is the final coat and the sheen that you pick will be what you see as the end result.
I lightly sanded (with the fine-grit block) and dusted between the coats to remove drips and brush strokes. If you are finishing a desk or table top that will get lots of wear and tear, 4-6 coats of polyurethane is suggested. It was recommended that you wait for 24 hours before using the piece. I let the hutch cure over the weekend and now it’s ready to use. Be sure to read labels, wear old clothes, and paint in a well ventilated area. The hutch didn’t turn out flawless- it had its share of drips, brush strokes, and dust that I polyurethaned to it, but it was well worth the effort. I really, really liked doing this and can see myself getting into the business side of this hobby in the future. Most of the ladies who do this to sell their pieces own spray guns which would make the process 10 times faster and make the end result much, much smoother. Purchasing a spray gun is something that I will consider looking into in the future. Here is a price breakdown if you are interested: