self adhesive sheet vinyl flooring

self adhesive sheet vinyl flooring

second hand hardwood flooring brisbane

Self Adhesive Sheet Vinyl Flooring

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Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top Some quick background to preempt some discussion about quality, longevity, rental issues, etc.: I'm in a rental that is literally "anything goes". It's a long story, but suffice it to say if it does not require a building permit (or does but you can hide from the inspector), it's good to go. This is an open layout where the bulk is laminate flooring that I installed myself. I have an area that's approximately 18' x 8' that's an entrance and kitchen area and a bathroom that's about 6' x 6' where the original floor is still exposed. The original floor is the old fashioned "linoleum" (asphalt/asbestos 12"x12" tiles) flooring. It's in OK shape, but looks horrible - there's no cleaning of it at this point - it will never be white again. My main goal is to put the cheapest vinyl solution on top of this that I can. A lifespan of 5 years would be beyond what I'm aiming for.




Tearing up the old floor is not an option, nor is any floor prep that involves sanding (I am not wanting to kick up asbestos). I assume I need some type of stripper, but I'm not finding any good specifics about that online. My second goal is ease of installation. I can't see myself doing a good job with a large sheet - the kitchen/entryway is sort of an elongated "U" shape ( |__| ), and the bathroom is small, but I have to go around the toilet and a small vanity. And having an open floorplan like this, I'd like to avoid stinking the place up with the adhesives required for sheet flooring. So I'm aiming for the self-stick stuff. Any recommendations on cheap stick-on that will stick, and probably even more importantly the materials to prep the existing floor are welcome! I have run into the same situation many times. Let me say first, that I don't condone doing work that requires permits without them, as it often leads to crappy quality or safety issues. I always prefer to do quality work, but occasionally budgets make it necessary to do a quicky fix.




In your case, the most important thing is to strip away all old wax and dirt on the existing tiles. Tack down any loose tiles, especially around the edges with ring nails or a power stapler. There are many de-waxing products and can be found at any box or hardware store. An alternative cleaner is ammonia and water. Cheap and effective, but smelly. You can also use a mix of regular bleach, TSP, and water. (BTW, never mix bleach and ammonia!!!!) Clean the existing tile with one of these products and scrub the surface well with a mesh type pad, like a 3M green scrubbie. Be sure to rinse the area well with clean water and allow to dry. You may also consider a tile primer. This product is a bit pricey at over $30 a gal, but when applied over most any hard surface gives an excellent base for any self adhesive tile product. When you get to the bathroom, remove the toilet and cut your tile around the closet flange, then reinstall the toilet. It is only two bolts, one water connection, and a replacement wax ring.




It will look 100% better and avoid tiles coming up due to the toilet sweating and wetting the edges of tiles cut around the base. Only takes a few extra minutes, but will make a big difference. Fill all cracks, holes, uneven spots with floor leveling compound. Otherwise those defects will wear through and cause your top layer to crack. Get the floor clean, dust-free, and dry. We just prep the old tile by sanding it with 120 or 160 grit paper. Any loose old tiles, you have to glue them down or staple them with heavy duty staples. Or you can peel them up and use floor filler to fill in that spot. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google Sign up using Email and Password Post as a guest By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service. Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged installation preparation vinyl-flooring or ask your own question.What subfloors are approved for Luxury Vinyl products? Concrete, Underlayment grade plywood, Exterior grade plywood (sanded face, B-C or better grade), properly prepared non-cushion backed vinyl flooring.




All subfloors must be clean, dry and free of contaminants such as oil, grease, paint, sealers, waxes, curing compounds, excessive moisture, hydrostatic pressure.  Floors must be structurally sound, rigid, flat to 3/16" in 10 feet (F-32). Can I use self-stick flooring over heated subfloor? Novalis floors are recommended over radiant heated floors provided the floor is not allowed to be heated over 85°F (29°C), or cooled below 55°F(13°C).   Also avoid any sudden temperature changes. Is 100 lb roller required?Proper rolling with a 100 lb. 3 section roller will ensure proper pressure is applied to the flooring for adhesives to bond the substrate. Roll the floor during installation and after the floor is completely installed. If you cannot obtain a 100 lb. roller, a household rolling pin can be utilized in the following manner: maintain contact throughout the installation by pressing straight down on the rolling pin, keeping it close to your knees and with as much of your body weight as possible.




You will  need to roll in this manner over the whole floor. Pushing the rolling pin away from your body and then pulling it back only gets pressure on the floor when your arms are closest to your body, so there will be a lot of wasted energy and movement. Why is acclimation required and how long and @ what temperature? Acclimation allows the solid vinyl flooring to become equal to the installed environment. This will better allow the flooring to become more stable during normal temperature fluctuations. With floating installations, acclimation allows the product to properly relax and the joints to be properly engaged. All floors must be acclimated under normal site conditions and temperatures for 48 hours prior to installation. How do I clean my vinyl floor? Use a "neutral pH" cleaner to remove any sediments or contaminants to the flooring. These cleaners are safe enough for regular use on solid, luxury vinyl flooring. Do not use any type of chemical or harsh cleaners.

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