The design of this lawn chair is different from the typical "Adirondack chair". Adirondack chairs are great for reclining on the deck and looking out at the lake, but their steep recline makes them awkward for most other activities. Lawn chairs based on this plan have less of a recline to them, which makes them more suitable for eating or socializing while sitting in the chairs. All dimensions on these drawings are in centimeters The basic structure of the lawn chair is the side frames. The legs are the only parts that touch the ground, and should be made out of cedar. The back has a slight arch to it to make the chair more comfortable to sit on. Its a sraightforward cylindrical curve. The top of the boards form a slight arch for decorative purposes. to measure the length and angle to cut the various boards is to put them all down on a workbench and mark an arc on them with a set of trammel points, or just a pencil and a string.
If you are building a lot of lawn chairs, it really speeds things up to build a jig to help hold the pieces of the side frame in place when nailing them together. Before nailing on the back for the first chair you build, it's a good idea to just secure it with some clamps and sit in the chair. This will give you the opportunity to adjust the final seat back position before you nail it all together. These chairs have a few more parts to them than an Adirondack chair does. Geometrically, however they are a bit easier, because they lack the many compound angles that Adirondack chairs have. You can also download a SketchUp model of this lawn chair. You will need the free Google SketchUp to open the SketchUp model. More about these lawn chairs See more of my Woodworking plans5 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long 8 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long 2 – ¼” bolts 4” long with nuts and 6 washers 2” exterior screws or nails and glue to nail slats down with
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. 2 – 2x4 @ 85” 2 – 2x4 @ 21” 16 – 1x3 @ 24” 6 – 2x4 @ 14” 2 – 2x4 @ 7” 2 – 2x4 @ 32” 3 – 2x4 @ 17 ½” 7 – 1x3 @ 37 ½” 1 – 2x4 @ 24” (stop block) Build your frames first. You can use 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws OR 3" countersunk screws. I highly recommend the PHs because it will hide your screws holes, making it easier to paint the pieces, and then attach later through the PHs.
Next add your slats. You can also attach slats from underneath with PHs if desired. Attach legs, and then to front, attach second row of legs. Use 2 1/2" screws and glue here. These legs are just long enough to provide you a spot to put the stop block when chaise is fully reclined. Now build your back - recommending 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws again here. Add the back slats. Now we attach back to chaise with the pivot bolt .... Brook is also sharing with us her step by step finishing tutorial here to get this amazing finish! And the missing diagram for the stop block - thanks Brook for the heads up and Mark. Cottage Style Furniture Plans, Farmhouse Style Furniture PlansPallet Wine RacksWood Wine RacksDiy Wine RacksHomemade Wine Rack DiyWoodworking101 ThoughtSkills ThoughtWood101 PicPallet Wood StuffPallet IdeasForwardPaint usually costs from under $20 per gallon to $30 per gallon or new. Develop a toy box, and personalize it using kid's legal name.
Pick from fancy ones or maybe utilitarian designs.It's a good thing that so many plastic patio chairs are designed to stack, and the aluminum ones fold up flat. That means we can get them put away and stored out of sight as quickly as possible. But, if you think outdoor furniture should enhance your yard and garden, consider a chair that evolved on the porches of summer homes and resorts of upstate New York. It's an object that no one will want to hide, because it simply looks so good: the Adirondack chair.Our version has come a long way from the early types that had flat backs and seats -- and, we've added a matching table so you'll have a stylish surface for cool drinks and a good book. Although there are a few angles and curves to cut, there's no fancy joinery -- everything's held together with corrosion-resistant deck screws. We used cedar for these pieces because it stands up well to the elements, and it's available in the required 3/4- and 1-in. thicknesses. You could substitute pine if you plan to keep the pieces out of the weather.
If you're building more than one chair, it pays to make templates for parts like the side rails, arms and back rails. The patterns also will come in handy when your friends see your work and ask you to make chairs for them.Model designed in Alibre Design Xpress. Get your FREE copy today!View a larger version of this animationorDownload printable plans of the Adirondack chair and table.SIZEDESCRIPTIONA21 x 5-1/4 x 33-3/4"cedar side railB11 x 4-1/4 x 23-1/4"cedar top back railC11 x 3-1/2 x 23-1/4"cedar bottom back railD93/4 x 2-1/4 x 23-1/4"cedar seat slatE73/4 x 3-1/4 x 35-1/2"cedar back slatF21 x 4-1/4 x 20-1/2"cedar front legG21 x 2-1/2 x 29"cedar back legH21 x 2-3/4 x 6-1/2"cedar arm bracketI21 x 5-1/4 x 28"cedar armJ21 x 5-1/4 x 16"cedar footK21 x 1-1/2 x 19-1/4"cedar cleatL21 x 5 x 16-1/2"cedar legM23/4 x 5 x 17-1/2"cedar stretcherN51 x 3-3/4 x 24"cedar slatOas required1-5/8" No. 8fh deck screwPas required2" No. 8fh deck screwMaking the Chair SeatLay out the side-rail shape on your stock
, cut to the lines with a jigsaw [1] and sand the edges smooth. Then, cut the back rails to size, and saw the curves that give the chair back its concave shape. Note that the cut on the top rail is square, while the bottom rail has a 7-degree bevel. Cut the seat slats to size and round the upper edges of each with a 1/4-in. quarter-round bit in a router table. Then, round the exposed edges -- those that won't abut other parts -- of the side and back rails. Keep the router table set up for this job so you can round the edges of the other parts as they're made.Because of the shape of the seat, most of the slats require bevels on one or both edges. Use a table saw or hand plane to cut the bevels.Start seat assembly by screwing the lower back rail to the seat sides with one screw at each end of the rail. Then, add slat No. 4 as indicated in the drawing, again using only one screw at each end [2]. Measure opposite diagonals of the subassembly and adjust it until it's square. When you're satisfied, add a second screw to each end of the two slats to lock the pieces in position.
Use a 1-in.-thick block as a spacer to position the rear seat slat [3]. Then install the remaining slats. Because the seat is curved and many of the slat edges are angled, don't try to measure these spaces. Instead, simply arrange the slats by eye so that they appear uniform. Cut the front legs to size and round the long edges on the router table. Mark a line on the inside face of each leg that indicates the bottom edge of the side rail. Then, attach the legs to the seat assembly with screws driven from the inside of the side rails [4]. Adding the BackThe back slats are tapered to create a fan shape when installed. Cut each 35-1/2-in.-long slat blank so one end is 3-1/4 in. wide and the other is 2-1/4 in. wide. We did this on a band saw, but a jigsaw will work, too. Smooth the sawn surfaces, cut the curved top ends and round the edges.Cut the rear legs to size, angling the top ends at 64 degrees. Clamp each rear leg to a side rail, bore and countersink screw pilot holes, and secure the legs with screws [5].
Next, screw the top back rail to the top ends of the back legs [6], and lay the chair on its back to install the back slats. Place a 4-in. block under the upper back rail to provide clearance for the long back slats. Mark the centers of the top and bottom back rails, align the center back slat with these marks and screw it in place [7]. Then install the outer two slats [8]. Secure the remaining slats so the top curved ends are aligned and the spaces are uniform. Installing the ArmsCut out the arms and arm supports, and round the edges. Temporarily clamp the supports in place and secure them with screws [9]. Then, attach the arms to the front and rear legs with screws [10]. Making the TableThe table is built the same way as the chair -- all exposed edges are rounded on the router table and the parts are simply screwed together.Lay out the feet on 1-in. stock and cut to the lines with a jigsaw, then cut the remaining rectangular pieces to size.Attach each foot with three screws [11], then bore pilot holes and screw the two stretchers to the legs [12].