1500 Series Pocket Door Frame for Doors up to 30 in. x 80 in. 1500 Series Pocket Door Frame for Doors up to 36 in. x 80 in. 1500 Series Pocket Door Frame for Doors up to 32 in. x 80 in. 1500 Series Pocket Door Frame for Doors up to 24 in. x 80 in.Pocket Door Frame Set Satin Nickel Pocket Door Privacy Latch 2000 Series Pocket Door Frame for Doors up to 36 in. x 80 in. 200PD Series 96 in. Track and Hardware Set for Pocket Doors 1500 Series Pocket Door Frame for Doors up to 28 in. x 80 in. Satin-Nickel Pocket Door Pull HandleSatin Nickel Closet Pulls (2-Pack) 1560 Series Pocket Door Frame for Doors up to 36 in. x 80 in.Extruded Aluminum Pocket Door Track Kit 2060 Series Pocket Door Frame for Doors up to 30 in. x 96 in. Bypass Closet Door Track KitSatin Nickel Pocket Door Privacy Latch Sliding Wardrobe Door Nylon Bottom Guide (2-Pack) 2000 Series Pocket Door Frame for Doors up to 30 in. x 80 in. Bronze Pocket Door Privacy Latch with Pull
Nylon Floor-Mounted Adjustable Bypass Bottom Guide for Wardrobe Doorsoops, you broke it (or maybe it was us) either way something went wrong So this is a 404 page. We are not blaming you or saying you made a mistake, but statistically speaking most of these errors are caused between the keyboard and the chair. Best thing to do is go back where you came from, but if you really want to tell us about it you can. Or, go back to the homepage for this website. For the nerdy: 404 - File or directory not found. The resource you are looking for might have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable. 1x3 boards (measuring 2 1/2" in width) preferably hardwood - I use poplar for paint grade 1" and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris.
Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. PANEL - 1/2" hardwood plywood cut 5" less in height and width than desired finished door dimensions RAILS - 1x3 hardwood boards (measuring 2 1/2" in width) cut 5" less in length than the desired finished door dimensions STILES - 1x3 hardwood boards (measuring 2 1/2" in width) cut to desired finished door dimensions It's super important to get this plywood panel cut square and straight. If you can, cut with a miter saw or other fixed saw, or a table saw. If you are cutting with a ciruclar saw, use a straight edge or rip cut to guide you. Then drill 1/2" pocket holes around the four sides of the panel, about every 8" or so - use your best judgement here. You should do at least two pocket holes per side of the panel.
Next, attach your rails to the top and bottom, through the 1/2" pocket holes with 1" pocket hole screws. The back will be flush and all outside edges must be flush. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on the ends of the rails for attaching the stiles in the next step. Finally, attach the stiles to the rails and panel, using 1" and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws as noted in the diagram (1" for 1/2" pocket holes, 1 1/4" for 3/4" pocket holes). All outside edges and back are flush. Fill pocket holes with either plugs or wood filler. Bathroom, Bedroom, Craftroom, dining room, kitchen, living roomSo I am putting in a pocket door and I am working on framing in the rough opening. I want to keep one side on the wall; And just remove one side of drywall and trying not to damage the other side too much. I need to remove some studs and re-frame for a bigger opening. Any suggestions on how I can go about removed the 2x4 and keeping on side of drywall in place. How can I cut the drywall nails?
Thank for any suggestions. I don't want to try to match texture and paint and so on... on the other side of the wall Removing 2x4s with sheetrock/drywall in place on one side?? Not what you were looking for ? Check out my YouTube Video of my project here.... Next I will be adding all new Baseboards in the room. The hardest part was the Demo, since I was saving one side of the wall. Everything else way fairly easy. The painting took a good amount of time. Thanks to everyone at Home Depot!!! Thank you for the question. There is a rather easy solution to this problem, and it involves a drill, jig saw and a jamb saw. I have attached your picture, but now it has a few lines and dots on it. The first thing you will want to do is to get a drill with a ¼ inch bit and drill some pilot holes in the center of the 2x4, or where the yellow dots are. This is going to lead us to step number 2. Next you will want to get your jig saw with a metal blade. A metal blade will cut wood slower but it will cut through any nails that you will encounter, whereas a wood blade would not cut the nails and shake all the paint off the walls.
Put the blade in the pilot holes and proceed cutting. You can cut as close to the sheetrock as the jig saw will allow, which would probably be about 1 ½ inches. These cuts will be made approximately where the red lines are. The jigsaw will not quite make it to the bottom of the 2x4, so we will have to finish up with a jamb saw. There is a tool that I highly recommend having in your tool box. http://bit.ly/i6j8fy This Dremel multi tool does everything and it is what we need for this last cut. It will cut the rest of the way down the 2x4 and it can also cut the nail holding it to the bottom of the wall. You are obviously a very handy and ambitious person. Keep me posted with this project and hit me with any other questions that you might have and thanks. One thing worth mentioning that I didn't see in the previous reply. Make sure that the wall is not load bearing. The cross braces above the door indicate that it may be (I have not seen that type of bracing before except in load bearing walls).
If it is a load bearing wall, you should build a temporary support wall or at least use a couple of jack posts & 4x4 to brace the work area before cutting. The Gruemaster does bring up a good point. I did not suspect that wall of being load bearing but incase it is, I think that maybe I have a solution. I would recommend installing 2x4s turned sideways beside the cut 2x4s. This will help maintain the structural integrity incase wall is load bearing. Photo attached, install new 2x4 in the blue areas. I was going to brace the wall on the other side( in the dining room area next to the wall) with a temporary 2x4 wall that extetnds across the area I am working for support while the other studs and header is removed. If I put the 2x4s in the "blue area" they would be in the way when I am ready to redo my header which will streach the entire opening. 65 inchs wide rough opening. I was going to use a 2x6 for the header is that right? The header will sit on the "Jack studs" Correct?
I also have to remove the framing above the door becuase I need to raise the height of the rough opening to 84 1/2 inches. Thanks for your help and suggestions. I will keep you updated. Here is the finished part of the framing for the pocket door. It was a lot of work cutting out the old 2x4's, being careful not to hurt the other side of the drywall. And I used the Dremel Multi-Mac to cut behind the studs that I removed, to cut the sheetrock nails that were attached to the stud. It was a lot of work using the Jig Saw to ripe down the 2x4's, but once they were cut it was much easier to remove them. Here is the photo of the New Framing for the Pocket Door. I am waiting on FedEx to deliver my Pocket Door stuff. and then hopefully I will get the door I ordered at Home Depot next week. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions!!I am glad it worked out for you and I am impressed. Great job I cant wait to see the door. First photo is of the Pocket Door Framing installed and the New Door hung.
Second photo is of the drywall hung and the pocket door trim installed & Door hardware installed. Now I just need the texture and replace door molding. This photo is of the other side of door. This is the side where I left the drywall in place while removing the studs and reframing. Now I just need a little touch up of texture & paint and replace the door trim. I can speak for a lot of us on the How-To Community by saying that what a great project you did on making the pocket door project really work out for you! Thanks for sharing all your updates and concerns regarding a not-so-easy project. Just some drywall, paint, and moulding and it looks like your on your way to the finish line, way to go Brandon! Any other questions or concerns you have, please feel free to ask us again here on the community! Can't believe I missed this. No one tells me anything around here :robotmad:. Great job there Brandon! My hats off on maintaining the other side of the wall.