We don't have the page you are looking for.Old Rocking Chair IdeasDiy Rocking Chair RedoRocker RedoChair RevampRedo ChairsChairs MakeoverChairs ChairsDiy Redo FurnitureFurniture PaintingForwardRocking chair, refinished with a bright paint color and a new seat cushion and pillow. I'm going to keep this idea tucked away in case I come across an old rocking chair. Instead of spending money to replace a worn or scratched rocking chair, you should consider refinishing it. To preserve the original piece of furniture, whether a family heirloom or an antique-market find, you can refinish your chair with a few basic tools and novice woodworking experience. Warning: Paints, varnishes, and thinners all contain chemicals that are potentially harmful. Always wear gloves to avoid direct skin contact, which could cause burns and other reactions. In addition, wear a respirator or painter’s mask when working with these products. Always work in a well-ventilated area. Step 1 – Prepare the Rocking Chair
If the rocking chair has metal bolts or brackets that you can undo, take the chair apart before refinishing it to avoid getting paint or primer on these parts. However, if your chair if firmly built and you can’t remove these parts, use painter’s tape to cover them. If there are any damaged areas or parts, fix or replace them now before continuing. Step 2 – Apply the Stripper Using a sponge, apply paint or varnish stripper to the rocking chair. Coat all surfaces you want to finish evenly. Allow the stripper to set for 5-15 minutes so that it can loosen the finish. Step 3 – Remove the Old Finish Use a drill with a circular wire brush to thoroughly clean the rocking chair’s surface. If necessary, clean the brush with paint stripper periodically. Wipe down the surface as you go with a soft rag to make sure you haven’t missed any spots. Step 4 – Sand Until Smooth Fill any holes or round out splintered corners, and then sand all surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper.
A 220-grit sandpaper is ideal. After smoothing out all areas, wipe the surface down with a clean, damp sponge. Step 5 – Apply New Finish Spray on the finish in smooth, long strokes, holding the can approximately 6-10 inches away from the rocker. Allow the first coat to dry for at least one hour, and then apply a second coat. Let dry before sanding. Step 6 – Finish the Chair Finally, lightly sand the surface of the rocking chair. Then, apply a third coat of finish. You may apply additional coats as desired to refinish your rocker. To finish the look of your updated rocker, consider purchasing a new pillow to place on the seat. Or, repair your old rocking-chair cushion.Baskets Antiques 2Stuff AntiquesHome Chair BenchDiy ChairBenches Stools Shelves ChairsOld ChairsChair NecktieGrandma RockersNeckties WovenForwardIt looks like the seat is woven from fabric. I wonder how hard that would be to do for my old sling chairs?Step 1: Plan of ActionShow All ItemsQ: Years ago, my mother stripped most of the old finish off my great-grandmother’s oak rocker.
I would love to have it refinished. In addition, some of the glued joints are loose. Any suggestions on where to go and on how much refinishing to do? A: Because most of the old finish is gone, preserving the old finish isn’t really an option. Whatever finish remains should be removed so that you wind up with a new finish that’s uniform. To tighten the loose joints, the chair will need to be at least partially disassembled, using spreader clamps or a wooden or rubber mallet. Then the existing glue needs to be scraped out, new glue applied and everything clamped tightly until the glue dries. Antique chairs are often held together with hide glue, which has fallen out of favor because it’s not as strong as modern PVA (or polyvinyl acetate) white and yellow woodworking glues, which create a bond that’s stronger than wood. But repairing a chair made with hide glue is a lot easier because it softens readily with heat or warm water and so is easy to remove. And when it fails, joints loosen but the wood itself does not rip apart, as it can with the more tenacious glues.
), matches the new glue to the type that he scrapes out of the joints. For most antique chairs, that means hide glue; for more modern ones, yellow glue. To repair broken parts other than joints, he often uses two-part epoxy. Depending on how much finish is left on your chair, he might use a chemical stripper, applied by brush, never by dipping. The finish would depend on what look you want. His guess is that the original finish was shellac or an early lacquer. The modern equivalent would be sprayed-on lacquer, which would produce a durable, easy-to-care-for finish. But if you wanted an oil finish, he could do that instead. Hawksford estimated the total cost at $250 to $350. ) in Charlotte Hall, Md., estimated $350, which would include a golden oak stain to achieve the original look and several coats of varnish. This company picks up and delivers throughout the Washington area for an additional charge. Several other shops quoted separate prices for regluing and refinishing, which might be useful if you want to leave the tricky disassembly and regluing to a pro but tackle the finishing steps yourself.
Corey Powers, owner of American Hardwoods (301-588-0363, americanhardwoodsinc.net) in Silver Spring, estimated the gluing would cost $200 and refinishing about $400. ) in Silver Spring, estimated $235 for gluing and $375-$400 for refinishing. When customers want to apply finish themselves, he recommends Minwax polyurethane in a satin finish so brushstrokes don’t show. When he applies finish, he sprays lacquer. I have an aged concrete patio with cracks or veins where weeds are growing. How can I make the patio look decent without redoing the entire thing? Can I just clean out the weeds and then fill the veins with liquid spray and coat the whole patio with special paint for concrete surfaces? You can make the concrete look a lot better by pulling the weeds and scrubbing the concrete, using a power washer or just a scrub brush and hose. But if the weeds are thick and deep-rooted, “pulling the weeds” isn’t as easy as it sounds. A quick alternative is to give them a close haircut with a string trimmer.
They will soon regrow, but if you use the patio only occasionally, it’s an easy and fast solution. For more of an upgrade, you’ll need to completely remove the weeds. The thin shaft of a dandelion weeder can be a big help. Use a wire brush to remove dirt and concrete chips, then thoroughly clean the concrete. If you have access to an air compressor, put on goggles and blow debris out of the cracks. Fill cracks up to a half-inch wide and a quarter-inch deep with a product such as Sakrete Concrete Crack Filler ($10.56 per quart at Home Depot). If the cracks are deeper, fill them with sand to about a quarter-inch from the surface so the sealant gets a firm grip on the concrete on both sides but doesn’t have to flex downward as much if the crack continues to move. For wider cracks, you will need to chisel out channels that are wider on the bottom than the top so the patches don’t come out. Use a cement-and-sand mix (without gravel) such as Sakrete Sand Mix ($6.10 for 60 pounds at Home Depot).