Why does my garage door opener hum but the door does not move? Why does my garage door opener hum but the door does not move? There are several potential reasons for the garage door opener to hum and the door does not move. The trolley may be stuck on the stop bolt or stop tab. There may be stripped gears, a stripped rack, a bad capacitor, or motor. To prevent possible SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH from electrocution, disconnect ALL electric and battery power (if your opener has the EverCharge standby power) BEFORE performing ANY service or maintenance. To resolve humming issues for a chain or belt drive If the garage door opener hums twice: Check the trolley and ensure it is not stuck on the stop bolt or stop tab. See How do I get the trolley off the stop bolt or stop tab? Remove the metal cover and inspect the capacitor. Look for oil or swelling, these are telltale signs of a failed capacitor. If the capacitor is replaced and the humming has not been resolved, replace the motor.
If the garage door opener hums for about 30 seconds: Ensure the door is connected to the garage door opener. Use the emergency release handle to reconnect the door. See How can I disconnect the garage door opener to manually open or close my garage door? Check the belt or chain to be sure it has not fallen off the sprocket. After re-installing the chain or belt back on to the sprocket, ensure to check your owners manual on setting the tension to the chain or belt. If the belt/chain is connected properly, remove the metal coverto inspect the gears. If you see white plastic shavings inside the unit, or the gears appear to be worn or stripped, replace the gears. If the garage door opener is a screw drive, check for a stripped rack. It is a small black piece that runs up and down the screw. If it appears to be worn out even a little, replace the rack. If the garage door opener hums until unplugged, the receiver logic board is damaged and must be replaced. If this is a new installation, verify that the correct bolts are used to mount the rail to the chassis.
If longer bolts are used, they will interfere with the operation of the motor. Make sure you are using the bolts that came already installed on the chassis. The bolts are black in color, not silver. To resolve humming issues for jackshaft operators (3800/8500) If motor hums for 1 to 2 seconds, the door may be disengaged. Pull on the red emergency cord, then try opening door manually. If motor hums for more than 2 seconds, the collar may be slipping on the jackshaft. Tighten all 6 screws on the collar then try operating the door again. For further assistance on the 3800/8500, check the LED indicator light for diagnostic codes. Answers others found helpful How do I get the trolley off the stop bolt or stop tab? Belt and Chain Drive Gear and Sprocket Kit Replacement Instructions Why do the garage door opener lights turn off when the garage door opens? GDO - How to resolve issues with an out of phase chain/belt drive opener Why does my chain/belt drive garage door opener run in the wrong direction?
Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top My garage door opener will not work. I can hear an audible click like a relay but the door will not go up or down. Also the the lights will not work. Again by using the control console I can hear a click like a relay but no lights. There is power going into the unit.There is a green light on the PCB. Tried pushing what looks to be a reset button on the board. I have a Craftsman opener mod.# 139.53975SRT1. There are several things that could cause a door opener to not work properly. Tester101 put most of them in his comment, but most of those would at least result in the opener visibly and audibly trying to open the door, and then giving up. This may sound counterintuitive but my first priority would be getting the light working. Most garage door openers use the light as the primary indicator of a problem, by blinking it a certain number of times.
Replace all bulbs in the unit (preferably with bulbs designed for use in high-vibration applications) and see if the light will turn on. The second thing to do is verify that whatever control you are using to try to open the door is properly connected and/or programmed. Replace any batteries, check the inputs on any hard-wired switch or panel, and have the opener "re-learn" any wireless control modules you're using. Understand that many systems require at least one hard-wired multi-function switch in order to access all the features of the opener. Also check all the safety interlocks. Most openers on the market will not operate at all without the electronic eye system properly installed, connected, aligned and the lenses cleaned. Certain systems may have eyes at multiple levels to allow the eye to "see" things that could cross the threshold at different levels, like a car bumper vs a truck bumper; every installed eye system, and there must be at least one, must be working properly.
Next, pull the red handle on the traveller shuttle to disconnect the door from the drive mechanism. Press the garage door button, and see if the chain drive operates. If so, the problem is the door; it's locked, jammed or improperly counterbalanced. If it still doesn't move, the problem is the drive mechanism; either the travel settings are messed up, such that the door thinks it's fully up or down no matter what position it's really in, or else the motor has burned out, seized up, slipped a gear, etc. Try adjusting the travel and see if the drive will move. Also, some openers are pressure-sensitive and will abort closing if they sense that the door is pressing on something (like a kid who tried to slip through and got caught); that pressure sensitivity is often adjustable, and you may have it set to be too sensitive so it's tripping based on the weight of the door itself. If none of these at least indicates a further course of action, you're probably looking at replacing the door opener.