These are the instructions for building the LEGO City High-speed Passenger Train that was released in 2014. Download These Instructions as PDF: BI 3004/28, 60051 1/4 V29 [1.94 Mb] BI 3004/28, 60051 1/4 V39 [1.93 Mb] BI 3019/68+4*, 60051 2/4 V29 [9.66 Mb] BI 3019/68+4*, 60051 2/4 V39 [9.26 Mb] BI 3017/40-65G, 60051,3/4 V29 [4.42 Mb] BI 3017/40-65G, 60051 3/4 V39 [4.42 Mb] BI 3017/60+4-65/115G, 60051 4/4 V29 [5.31 Mb] BI 3017/60+4-65/115G, 60051 4/4 V39 [5.31 Mb] View which pieces you need to build this set ) which does not sponsor, authorize or endorse this site These are the instructions for building the LEGO City Passenger Train that was released in 2010. BI 3005/56- 7938 V. 29 4/4 [5.99 Mb] BI 3006/60 - 7938 V. 29 2/4 [8.73 Mb] BI 3005/28 - 7938 V. 29 3/4 [3.2 Mb] BI 3005/56- 7938 V. 39 4/4 [5.73 Mb] BI 3006/60 - 7938 V. 39 2/4 [9.81 Mb] BI 3005/28 - 7938 V. 39 3/4 [3.43 Mb] BI - FCC INFORMATION SHEET [0.15 Mb]
BI 3004/32 - 7938 V. 29 1/4 [3.25 Mb] BI 3004/32 - 7938 V. 39 1/4 [3.26 Mb]The requested URL /lego-instructions.php?cat_id=15 was not found on this server. Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I've helped my son put together the Cargo Train set (60052) but now we can't get the remote control to work. It all looks like it's been assembled correctly with new batteries put in, but it doesn't move. The best way to solve this type of problem is to break it down and isolate the fault. You might find that it is easier to remove the Power Functions components from the model for some of the following:Disconnect each cable and re-connect everything. Ensure that the plugs are the right way around (they don't sit right if not) and that they are pushed on properly. Check that none of the cables are damaged.
Connect the battery box directly to the train motor, bypassing the IR receiver. Does the train work now? If so, the problem is either the remote or the receier. If not, the problem is either the battery box or the motor. Remote / IR Reciever Problems If the problem is with the controller / IR receiver: Make sure that there is nothing blocking the signal between the controller and the IR receiver. Check that both controller and receiver are on the same channel. There is an orange 4-position switch on both the IR receiver and on the controller, and this determines the channel. Leaving one switch alone, try all 4 positions on the other. Check that the batteries are inserted correctly in the remote. Take them out and put them back in again. Check that the batteries are aren't worn out. Sometimes even new batteries don't deliver the correct voltage. If you have one, test your batteries with a volt meter. If not, try swapping them with new batteries, or test the batteries in something else to make sure they're OK.
Check that the battery terminals are not corroded. Sometimes corrosion isn't obvious. Try taking the batteries out and putting them back in again, or twisting them around until they may contact. You may be able to check that the controller is sending a signal. Although you can't see the flashes of IR light yourself, you may find that you can use a digital camera (such as a mobile phone camera) to see the flashes of light when you use the controls on the controller. These images are from the LEGO web site, which contains more information on both the controller and IR receiver: Battery Box / Motor Problems Check the batteries in the battery box, following steps 3-5 above. The little green light should come on when they're OK and the battery box is switched on (the green button is the on-off switch). There is a great description of the battery box on the LEGO web site, which might help explain things better than I can. This picture is from that site: If All Else Fails
Contact LEGO customer services. They'll be deligted to help. Did you check the channel settings on the remote and the receiver? There are 4 channels, and both the receiver on the train and the controller need to be on the same channel :) It's a little orange switch with the numbers 1-4 written next to it. I just got two new 8885 remotes. Turns out in my case the plus terminals and the plus side of the batteries were not touching due to the terminals being kept too far away by the plastic housing. I bend the terminals a little by inserting a small screw driver behind them and now it works as a charm. Better to take batteries out when actually doing it not as shown on photo with batteries in it :-) Bit of bad production. We have the same problem as outlined above. We realised that the cheap AAA batteries we bought did not make contact with the positive end of the terminals in the controller. In other words the bumpy bit at the positive end of the battery is not high enough to make contact inside the controller.
Solution - buy better quality AAA batteries. They will make proper contact. We have had exactly the same issues with the remote control. We found that by checking the batteries were in correctly and rolling them once inside the unit to ensure good connection worked and the green light came on as well as the light on the reciever. The batteries fit with the outer 2 going one way and the inner one going the other as instructed. So just bought a brand new LEGO Technic kit number 420030. Both IR remotes do not work when loaded with fresh batteries. I just got off the phone with LEGO tech support on this and here's the information they provided. DURACELL batteries are the culprit as they're too short (that's per LEGO tech support). I beg to differ however as I have side by side remotes (I have a third older remote from a previous kit) both loaded with Duracell and one working one not and the condition remains THE SAME even when I swap the batteries. THIS IS A BAD BUILD ON LEGO'S PART.